VW TYPE 4 - FULL TEARDOWN Complete Engine Build Part one | Porsche 914 

Hello my friends! Let me know what you think in the comments below!

I think you've become a master of teardown. With all the projects setting in the waiting line one day you'll be a mater of reassembly

CT TEARDOWN.......THE MASTER......CAN HE REASSEMBLE????????? Batman music.....

CT, we know you can take things apart. What is unclear is whether you can reassemble and complete a project.

Harbor freight called, they’ve got your tarp order in.

Over 90 minutes of weekend entertainment. Just what I needed! 😀 I wish I could have done all this with my own 914 2.0, now I am lucky to watch you do it.

When are you gonna finish the Karmann Ghia??

Chris, we all know that a successful disassembly is the result of the ammount and quality of the cuss words used! I admire your editing skills. 😊 Mentioning the size of tool is a nice addition, thank you. Good job.

The main bearings are retained by a pin on the exterior of the bearing might shift a little but they look ok. It’s the inside that matters. Pull the Connecting rods off and inspect those bearings. It sounds like one of those was at failure point. The cam looks like normal wear for the age and sitting. That cam bearing wearing into the copper is a sign of age or misalignment, but still not at failure. I would say you have a great rebuilder on your hands.

1:27:30 Bearings do NOT wear on the outside where they meet the case. that discoloration is of no consequence.

The red sealer is a glue to hold gaskets on during assembling.

Loved it CT. Thanks for taking us along.

Great video! Its best practice to keep the pushrods with the cilinders they came out of. Lenght and wear will have changed the rods in time and they will differ. If you put hem back at random they can give difficulties with setting valve clearance. Don't ask how I know ;-)

More points for your attention. DO NOT put it back together the way t You took it apart. It will leak and won’t cool properly. Those exhaust j pipes were supposed to come off first and will go in last. The push rod tubes need to be straight as an arrow and corrosion free, unless you want to risk oil leaks & crap in your freshly rebuilt engine. They come off when you pull the head off. They go in after the butterfly tins, as you put the head back on. Also of VERY EXTREME IMPORTANCE: The big hole in the bottom of the case halves is the windage tray. It is fragile and if over torqued the case has to be separated to fix it. In other words another rebuild & possibly line bored. It ONLY TAKES 8 FTLBS Be careful, DONT OVER TORQUE the windage tray.

Great ingenieur,great kameraman. It's nice to watch your puzzleplay. Can' t believe that you can fix all together again.I hope I can see it one time.

I wish you were my neighbor!! Now that I have the Porsche 914 GT 6 factory race car clone to restore, a craftsman GT18 mud mower to enter in the ATLTF build-off, and my special XS-650 bobber bike to finish building. This is going to be the best year ever .....mow

1:22:44 that is NOT a wear area of bearing, that is where it touches the other side of Case. (gears need to be removed from crankshaft to get the bearing off).

Thanks CT, very cool! That was a lot of work! Looking forward to hear what Darren has to say on condition.

Awesome tear down video looking forward to seeing it all put back together!

Great video glad you posted keep them coming thanks. Can't wait to see the swamp thing finished

I, for one, find these videos very entertaining. Keep going CT I can see you are learning a lot. I have faith in you.

Lovin this rebuild > 914's my 1st crush in the mid 70's which I've never gotten over. Lookin forward to following along & seeing Your ultimate reward of the finished product > & much gratitude to Mrs CT for allowing You to have "another Woman"😉 & btw > the former owner reminded me a bit of the Musician, David Lindley Thanks for sharing

Good job with the tear down, love the outtakes.

Excellent video CT :) also agree 👍 100 % need rebuilt that motor totally also bearings and cam too! Need 100% rebuilt for sure and plus totally clean too even exhaust plus injectors also! Also CT :) you and Wife have a excellent St.Valentines Day on February 14 2022 too!

Full teardown ?! - Big surprise !

Cool. Can’t wait to see it go back together.

Just loved what you are working on look forward to your next video watching in England

Can't wait to see the finished results. Good luck with the rebuild.

Thank you CT! That’s a good video! You’ve come a long way baby! Love it!🍺👍

Nice job CT I see you know about VW engines cool tear down 👍🏻👍🏻see you on the next video

i started watching this about 7 am or so...but had to do my work..clear snow and get my high speed internet location ( wireless ) cleaned up of 2 feet of snow..and clean some cars too of snow.... come back to finish watching you waste time!! get on the Ghia..the Last Hope for a Driver ..

holy crap one episode and the engines all apart. wow

Geez, hell of a job. Good luck putting it back together

I just stumbled in to this channel and I can say AWSOME video!! Never knew what those engines were like… very interesting and nicely in depth .

WoW great videos and wonderful cars. I have to watch this! Bravoooo ... 👏

You will strip a lot less nuts and bolts if you break it to start with the box end of a wrench instead of the open end.

Thanks Just came in from one of my Builds ! It the week end haveing a beer enjoying your Journey ! When you broke that bolt ! It made me think ! When you are young ! You dont take time ! You rush things . And when you are young you have time to take time but we dont ! When you are old like me you take time ! And dont rush ! But you dont have time to take time ! Time is runing out ! Im like you just love this shit Thank you young man for letting us in on your Journeys ! PS Didnt in the first video the old fart that sold you the car say he thought it was rebulit then parked ? Thanks CT Live Life ✌😎

Good timing on the upload to youtube..Saturday prior to Superbowl and everyone else uploads on Sunday. Great editing 👌

Big video Great job as usual Watching from Toronto Canada 🇨🇦

Very satisfying watching u dismantling the engine although i know nothing abt it. Looking fwd to the full restoration including the body. Thanks for sharing.

Great work 👍 !

You are doing a great job. I can imagine how much pleasure you enjoyed doing it. I wish I had worked with you, I am sure it would have been a lot of fun

I didn't think about this being a VW engine when you were starting it in the last video. Those VW engines have adjustable valves, and are notorious for them getting out of adjustment. That is why they secured the valve covers without fasteners to make them easier to remove when the valves needed to be adjusted. Especially with the engine sitting for years, that may have been a big part of your run and noise issues, as the valves will get out of adjustment when an engine sits. My mom had a '73 Super Beetle for a few years. It had been fully restored, but I had to adjust the valves once or twice a year, or it would run like crap. I can't remember what the interval is, but they actually have a recommended adjustment interval. I have 5 riding mowers with adjustable valve engines. Obviously, I don't run all of them regularly. I have one that will get out of adjustment if I go more than a month or two without starting it. When it is out of adjustment, it will have many of the same run issues that this engine had.

If you ever get stuck with an old Allen bolt, just lock a set of Vice Grips on the L shaped part of the wrench, and it will give you more leverage to turn it. I run into that a lot on some of the small engine stuff that I revive, and that's a trick I have found that usually helps.

Good days Mate Im been watching on most clips from your channel .Really interesting specially with this Porsche 914 with boxers engine that help me have more ideals with my project for my Subaru outback H6 boxer engine.Thanks for your performance.ALL THE BEST.( Fr Sydney Australia )🇦🇺

CT - enjoying your videos. If you want to know more about your fuel injected 914 engine there is a good “Wheeler Dealers” episode on diagnosing overheating in the FI 914 engine. Keep up the good work.

Mate you must be very patient man. Great content.

you made this look so easy and I k ow how hard it is to pull it apart have fun with it

I would clean up the Mahles and rerun them with new rings. Measure the cylinder and ridge it it is not bad the pistons are not warn out Run new rings. Looks like one of the valves had some rust under the seat causing a compression leak.

Hopefully a 6 cylinder Porsche conversion for the GIA !

The rings between the barrels and the heads are standard. (130:24). Normally they are 0.7 mm thick. In 1983 these rings were still factory used in the CU-coded block in the T3 bus. Modern replacement heads have these rings integrated as step in the head. You see that the heads are warped a bit due over heating, they indicate blow-by. Be carefull with the old parts, they are sometime hard to get, and rebuilding a part becomes neccessary then. The Mahle pistons were VW standard too, casted ones. Seen on the ribbeld rubber sleeves over the long block-halve-bolts,(1:21:07) it was never rebuilt. Try the sideward swivel play of the rods on the crank. If lesser than 1.0 mm on top it is OK, donot open or replace. Always replace oilpump. Pistons are only exchanged if factory turning grooves on the bearing surfaces are worn away, if not, only change the rings. Reject-play between piston and barrel by VW is a rediculous 0,2 mm... so measure before you throw away pistons which cannot be found. Greetz, Louis (Typ4 engine-specialist)

I hope you get VW Darin to rebuild it! I enjoyed your video of the tear down of the engine.

I think the old injection will work just fine. I think LOW BUDGET has a kit for it. but it is about 1800$. I would do that if it was bad because adjusting a carb in that engine compartment is a PIA...

The copper cam bearing is genuine and looks like that new. It's not copper because of wear, that's what it looks like new. The center cam bearing is delaminating which common on type 4. Make sure cam spins free before final assembly to prevent this. The last bolt taken out of case with copper washer supports the oil drain plate. Always take plate off first. Turning bolt with plate on can cause case it to break the boss inside the case where bolt screws in.

Very nice tear down. Engine is worn for sure but, Darrin can figure it out. Not to sure if I would go back to the FI. My 76 FI beetle gave me a fit.

I just made a kit out of my 64 corvair engine, it looks a lot like yours porch engine kit except two more cylinders. A challenge to see who is the first to get their kit back together...

Lot more work on the air cooled motors. I wish you good luck in reassembly. And you not get hit to hard on the parts. Thank you for sharing!

Home sweet home !

Welcome to the World of Air Cooled Engines!!... the first thing i do when i get a new Garden Tractor..is remove the engine and take all the tin off ..every one has lots of stuff packed in there...mouse nests...dirt..grass..oily muck from leaks....not worth delaying to do it right away.....those are just big Lawnmower Engines!! 🤣

When you're doing a teardown, the most important tool you'll need is a pencil. And some paper. This is because you'll need to start your shopping list of everything you are going to need to buy/get/steal/obtain/acquire when rebuilding. As you dismantle, write. It. Down.

I like that you haven't given up yet

good job 👍💥✌👌🖐

Absolutely keep the fuel injection! It's an awesome system if you take a few minutes to learn it. I have the LJetronic system on 3 of my VWs and Absolutely love it. NOT a fan of carbs at all

Remember I guaranteed you’d find nests under the cooling tin? 😉 You can find good German replacement parts for this at DPR Machine Shop. You probably need new exhaust valves, new valve guides, new pistons and cylinders, bearings for everything, maybe rebushing the rods, new cam and lifters and see if the crank needs regrinding.

Ct, your stuck nuts in your sockets…. Just put a bolt in the vice and tighten the socket and nut on to it and the pound the socket off… i do it all the time. Use the impact when your tightening because the vibration rotating in the opposite direction is what helps

The red sealer is RTV silicon.

Those bearings look rough. And more blooper reel! :)

Factory didn't use sealer on the oil cooler seals.

ct take your sockets put them the vise and use a center punch knock out the nuts this happens to me all the time and the trick works.thanks - nick

Yep, that motor was toast! Air-cooled motors are a little quirky. Rippin' & tearin' is one thing, blue printing and building is another thing altogether. And you need an engine stand! By the way, don't buy new sockets just because you have a nut stuck in them. Take a punch and knock it out from the other end!

🤣, the helmet needs to be in every vid

Thanks!

Send the wiring to Jeff Bowlsby. He restores them. And unfortunately, you can't get a new pressure manifold sensor. Jeff can fix that too. Rebuilding the fuel injection system is one of the best ways to restore power and value in a 914

Hello,I am not familiar with the type 4 stuff but the only time the rev limiting distributor rotor was used on a type 1 engine was for service in a farm machine or industrial use.

Super watch 👏👏👏🇬🇧

Have you seen the sockets with universal joints? Might get you into those awkward spaces and Help you avoid cutting?

try some threaded bar into those stuck manifold nuts and heat the sockets up and hit the bar out

good one

You have make a good job Chris. The Mahle pistons are the original ones, would you reuse it or substitude it with european ones to increase compression? Will you reuse injection air system? I've restored mine european 1700 and a friend of mine has imported a 914 from USA like yours, with same air injection system...and junk too...

Super !!!

Hi if you ever dealing with the camshaft oder similar bearing please please wear gloves for your healty. There are several chemicals build in the bearings which are no good ... just a advise from good old germany. Greetings from Bavaria. Todd

Wow I'm shocked how complete the tins are sure dirty but not rusted in pieces.

CT if you struggle with parts like the bellows to control the auto engine cooling you can use beetle parts if in doubt see wheeler dealers episode Nigel Old stoker retired Uk Navy

Excelente trabalho CT quando vai pintar o Karmanguia?

I see you got some good penetrating oil! Anyway, I don't know if anyone ever mentioned the weird distributor rotor you commented about in one of your videos is a RPM limiting rotor. Keep up the good work.

in case nobody else has mentioned it. Those sockets. Just shove a small screwdriver or whatever you can get into the back side of the socket. And hold it upside down (screwdriver on bottom) and drop. The momentum should knock that pesky nut right out.

You need to post your 1st engine tear down when you got the sledge hammer out....lmao ....you come a long way from those days CT...

Hi CT, well the good news is nothing inside broke. The bad news is you still need to pry open your wallet to rebuild it😁 very good video and you captured the whole thing in one video with the magic of editing. I'm getting better at.

Nice follow to the video.

Looks like it,s going to b a lot of fun in getting that engine back together once you have replaced all the worn out bearings and other parts,,,,not to mention all that tin shielding too,,,and the exhaust and heat shielding. I guess it would b a few months b4 the engine is back in the vehicle b4 you'll b driving it,,,,and of course,,,with the favourite helmet on too.

59:55 /// have you tried to put a screw in them 12mm nuts to get them pulled out?

that really smart! you put every nut and bolt right back where the belong, right after removing them. I rebuild an engine put it back In and killed It because of installing some bolts in the wrong place. never trust you Memorie 100% ) ;

プロではないと言ってるけど、分解技術凄いね。修理の成功を祈る。この方の頑張り素晴らしい。

above porches a dandy is made

If a,Type4 cam has that overlap marking on the top of the lop its toast, not questioning about it ! Same for those litters. if aorcooled vw main bearings have wear markings on the back side half as much as those it means they're lose in.the case and case needs a line,bore to the next oversize. alternatively if your machine shop can face the case halves 1st then possibly line bore at the same size again. But many vw,machine shops don't have this capability nowadays or never did. keep that cam gear of your cam as its lively to have the,right mesh unlike new,aftermarket ones. Also, I'm I'm not sure if your familiar with differences inside the 2L 914 as I didn't see you point out the windage tray in.the sump and beauty of those 2L 914 bigger value heads and combustion chamber ?

Just put a pin punch in the socket and tap it on cement or steel and the nuts will pop right out or go buy new sockets . I just hope that you do not use snap on tools.

Outside of the main bearings do not move they are held in place case Therefore cases need to be bored .

If your going to recreate the fuel injection it would kind of cool to recreate the fuel injection lines on the motor with copper, brass, or aluminum hard lines for kind of a steam punk look

It didn't run too bad in last video with no vacuum advance on distributor and old injectors

Lots of thin metal. But, consider East Germany's counterpart to West Germany's VW, the cotton coach Trabant, this is a jewel.