I remember we used to be able to get lots of things you wouldn't expect like a w116 exhaust, a w108 hazard switch, etc. Now some parts are NLA on cars sometimes under 15 years old
MB is not the same company anymore, they dont care about the old stuff anymore. I guess its just the future. I think people wont care about fixing cars for much longer either, even scotty kilmore is throwing in the towel i see.
I like that car more than red one! I have same paint but 250d om602 luckily l don’t have any problems with engine! Yeah only thing what i change are return line fuel hoses, and every year i have do it again! Definitely nothing with rubber now days not quality.
the blueblack w124 is also my favourite because it is original. Red is like an old lady with too much money and too much plastic surgery. She is fooling no one, not even me 😄
same as everything left outside here, they are a nuisance. Mice require constant baiting and spiders require whole outside of house poisoned regularly. Terrible terrible area i live in 😢
@@MMWA-DAVE It's the same with spiders here -- I had an unbelieveable amount of cobs underneath my 560SEC when I left if covered and undriven in my driveway for 2.5 years. Fortunately when I brought it back to life and started driving it again, the cobs went away quite quickly..... Mice...well, they're everywhere.
I have 2 of those Czech Bosch pumps in stock, plus accumulator, filter and a MB tubes. And the tank gauze filter too. In the event of issues, we'll change the entire pump pack. Is all well with the Czech pumps? My pumps were last renewed 15 years ago at about 250K Kms and we're now at half a million Kms. This on my old 300CE-24 that I've had for 27 years. So, all well still with you? Thanks for the vid.
those are the exact pumps I’ve had troubles with. Starting to wonder if something has changed with the fuel nowadays. Originals lasted 29 years, changed because noisy not because leaking. Probably should have kept them.
Good day, I’d like to ask a question since you were in the mood for fuel pumps! I own a 1992 300E 24V m104.980 paired with a 5 speed automatic trans, has got 378.800km on the clock! It’s been running great so far, except for the fuel pressure accumulator which makes the engine die on first startup! Starting again will result in a clean idle and perfectly running engine. It so happens that I drove home from work today! Engine ran great, when I turned it off, and let it sit for 30 minutes, I started it, ran great. I went through an intersection, pressed on the gas and the engine seemed to bog down! It got worse and worse, until I could only get up to 50kph! Pumping the gas helped me get home, although very sluggish and boggy! I let it sit in my driveway, started it - symptoms persist! Giving It half throttle in neutral at ~2.5k revs makes it misfire and bog like crazy! Quickly flooring it in neutral makes it rev up perfectly smooth until the limiter kicks in! I tried putting it in drive, and slowly taking off with maybe half throttle, bogs like crazy! Flooring it makes it run perfect, even under load! My question is, could it be that the two fuel pumps regulate different engine loads? Primary for low load and partial throttle, and secondary for full throttle? Does it have a switch which decides which pump to use (low load primary, kick down/full throttle secondary pump?) How does this whole system work? I couldn’t locate a fuel pump Relais, only the over voltage protection Relais, but I resoldered that a few weeks ago, all the fuses are good too! Can I test the system pressure individually for each pump? Any ideas? Greetings from Germany!
hi, fuel pumps are run in series, with parallel electrical connection. One cannot run without the other electrically and one cannot run without the other fuel supply wise. If primary seizes or fails the secondary will have no fuel to pump. I would advise checking your ignition system, particularly the insulation disk behind the rotor. If there is ignition troubles you need to fix them immediately or you will kill the thousand dollar EZL. If it is fuel i would start by checking the fuel tank screen if it is clogged, does not hurt to remove and clean it regardless. A new filter is good too if has not been changed in some time.
they are in series, I think the reason was to increase the pressure available. Certain modern universal single inline pumps can be used which will outperform the original 2 pump setup. Definitely not redundancy as when the primary one fails the secondary gets no fuel to pump. Primary one usually gets seized on cars that have sat for years from water or rust.
I’ll just leave my pumps alone on my 320CE they’re the original fitted at the factory in December 1992…I did replace the fuel filter in 2010 when I fixed the fuel gauge sender.
@@lancejohnston3688 if theyre working theres no need to change them. I heard rumours people have cleaned them out by submerging them in diesel and running them in reverse. I may experiment with this given I have an intact pump despite being a leaky dud it will show if its contaminated with dirt.
@@MMWA-DAVE I’ve cleaned my fuel injected Kawasaki fuel pump by removing the strainer and filling it with carburettor cleaner then blowing it out in reverse with compressed air.
Dave, one qustion not related to this video: Is it possible that the ECU enters in some protection mode in case the battery voltage go below 12 volts? Happened to me something weird last week, while using the AC in a very hot day, after 20 minutes the car lost power and I barely went back home very slowly (the idle were almost still). Day after I've checked the fuses, including the one on OVP relay, all ok, the harnesses were well attached too and when I finally tried to turn on the engine it worked normally... I'll replace the voltage regulator anyway, the battery is brand new. Thanks!
how do you know the battery voltage went below 12v? Are you sure your temperature gauge is working? On my cars there is emergency running mode initiated by the EZL when the engine temperature exceeds a critical level - it reduces power in a last ditch attempt to stop engine damage. This feature is probably on the m103 too but have not checked.
@@MMWA-DAVE I've installed a mini volmeter in the dash, where is your outside temperature display. The temperature gauge didn't reached 90°C and is working, as far as I know... When I stoped, the fan clutch was attached but maybe because the slow return home... I'll take the laser thermometer in the car to check If It happens again... Thanks for the Idea👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@vmlelectronics what voltage did you see it drop to? Maybe the regulator was the problem, obviously if does not improve you may need a new alternator.
