Hi. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge - it's helped us get our tank back up and running quickly. (Our city experienced a major flood that has every single reputable contractor and plumber booked, still, 5 months later.) I appreciate you.
Very good instructional; thanks! I've always promoted aerating the tank as one of the most important things to do. Not only does it sweeten the tank contents [stays mostly Aerobic, instead of Anaerobic], but because the biota in the tank are encouraged to stay Aerobic, they cannot migrate through ground and ground water, in case of a system leak. There's far less sewer-gas [H2S] formed, from Aerobic bacteria, too. Preventing migration of anaerobes through ground/ground water, is critically important wherever there's loads of septic systems used, in areas with shallow ground water, or near environmentally sensitive areas. Even Low-tech, gravity septic systems, can achieve this, if there's bubblers in the tank.
Thanks for sharing that information. I didn’t realise I could make a replacement aerator, so I may consider that, even thought my tank is now empty, I’ll test the airline with my compressor first. 👍🏾👍🏾
@Bracy thanks. This is the clearest most concise post I've come across regarding the basics of this function. I've replaced three air pumps in 13 years. The tank dealer said my installer ran the air line way too far from the tank and is causing the pump to run hot. I clearly understand how to do this job correctly. Lord bless
your dealer is Full of it! I had my motor rebuilt for $700, they plant the pump right at septic overflow height, so when it overflows, your blower is under sewage ??
@@davidfriesen7748 Replaced the diaphragm diy & relocated the air pump right next to the tank raised a bit above the riser cap. absolutely no issue of being submerged by an overflow. I also installed a pipe just below the riser cap to carry any overflow away down the hill to about 20' from the tank. Just happen to have handy outdoor electrical within 10' of the air pump. As of this date No issues remain but they are certain Lol! Lord bless! 1 Cor 15
An Aeration Treatment Unit (ATU) does not belong in the 1st Compartment or 1st Chamber of the Primary Septic Tank. If you install the ATU in the 2nd Compartment or 2nd Chamber, it won't prevent proper settling or separation of the solids from the liquid. You only want to Oxygenate the Effluent, not agitate the wastewater, which stirs everything up. Otherwise, add a Secondary Tank specifically for the Aeration Equipment, with an Effluent Filter in the Outlet Baffle, and the water will be basically clean when it enters the Leaching Field.
Another solution is to have a "trash tank" before the tank where the aerator is, in other words your aereator should not be in the first chamber in the first place.
Great idea. At least now the new areators have drop down tubing like in a fish tank. I just got one because shaft areator and keeps burning out due to high water etc...heavy rains kill it. Got a simple unit that fits in the lid and has its own pressure alarm. I have the old 4 tank Norweco Singulair with the big bio Filter. Be nice not to spend 475 every year or 2 for a new one.
Tank should be made with two tanks, black water tank( toilet only) and gray water tank (sink and shower) the black water should drain into the gray water and never return. the gray water to the drain field. My septic tank held for 40 years plus without maintenance.
actually you're wrong.you need diffusers micro bubbles and.use.systems where the air line is serviceable don't offer this junk to customers. tceq ossf2 site eval maintenance provider 9yrs
I'm a master plumber from Texas. 40 plus years. retired. I have to disagree with you regarding the clearing of the sludge build up not being able to be cleared by high pressure air. If you are speaking about some idiot that just never cared for 10 years or so and ignored his system then he deserves everything he gets, you are right in this isolated case. Every customer I have ever had was instructed in the adding of proper approved enzymes/bacteria every 4 months and every 6 months to give the system a shot of 50 psi air with a visual of the results inside the tank. Takes an hour every 4 months and a 30 minutes every 6 months. Seems that if a person actually does take a part in his system it can be kept clear. I like your solution it will help many. But if people simply took care of the septic system it would last a lifetime. I have seen a pvc pipe 'rack' put in a system, new of course, that looked like a framework of half inch pipe, 3/16 inch holes every 6 inches and it fit the inside perimeter of the first tank with cross members, 4 of them. It stood 6 inches off the bottom of the tank floor. and the holes were on the bottom of the pipe not the top. when this guy turned it on it looked like a hot tub bubbling. Back in 1978 he installed it. way before the time that anyone thought of this. Knew him for 25 years and it was still working when I last talked to him. Lots of good info but there are so many ways to put air into a tank. Another person I knew took a flexible piece of pex pipe from a roll and with three coil/winds of the piping slipped down the opening he aerated his septic system in 1 hour.
Stephen Haley how the pex pipe hold up my family system has been failing for a while the leaching filled is covered in biomat and if it rains a lot every thing inside backs up or if some takes a good shower it backs up
@Gold /absolutely great question I'm sure there is an ideal minimum & max clearance from tank bottom to holes in the air pipe. But I was asking myself that very question when I came across your comment. please reply if you come across the answer. I will do the same. have a great day. 1 Cor 15:1-4
Oh my Gosh! There’s a freaking pump now? What the actual hell! This whole septic thing just keeps getting better. How do I know it I have one! There are endless pipes and ports and problems!!!! I’m so confused and overall just sick of shit💩
I built my own aerator system. I used the blue diamond et60a so I would know when it went bad and to rebuild it. My purpose was to reduce tank clean out and to remove the septic laterals bio growth around them. I know its working cause when I remove the unsealed lid 6" above ground level. The smell is "sweet" no odors. My system flows good. But be reasonable. #1. A sink garbage disposal cannot be used, dang throw your garbage in the trash. #2. You cannot run your laundry into the tank when you BLEACH white cloths.....the bleach will destroy any bacteria whether anaerobic/aerobic...will cause NO DIGESTION of waste....rapid tank fill up---overflow to second chamber---outflow to leach field---SYSTEM COLLAPSE..!. You should not use caustics like toilet stool cleaning tabs-scrubs-etc or you will destroy your DIGESTIVE BACTERIA in your tank. I have a special septic (2 plastic 55gal. drums end to end hooked up for the laundry. I did this system for my parents, sister and myself X 3.
@@BT-ir5zl Per code 1 garbage disposal count as "1 more bedroom". 1 bedroom counts for 200gpd on an old home, 150gpd on one from the 90ies, and 110gpd for a recent one built after 2004.
The air diffusers should not be in the first chamber , where the solids comes in ,it should be in the 3rd or 4th ...it varies depending on the size of system.
Hey, John many different manufacturers of residential sewer treatment plants have the air difusser in first chamber, including the "Modad" brand used in my video.
Thanks. My motto "Happy bugs - no plugs". Also I don't see why they have the pipe so deep in the tank. If put along the edge it will Jacuzzi and boil creating plenty of mixing without having it so deep into the sludge zone.
yes but if the tank bubbles too violently the risk of sludge churning over and spilling into the grey water tank is probable. then it's call the clean out man.
I'd say that most states require health department approved components when altering the original approved design. Perhaps at a real estate transfer inspection this will get noted to the potential buyer.
Would like to hear from an actual customer who installed the Septic Genie in a PIT that is not percolating/leeching at all even with mostly clear liquid coming from the tank.
Check out the "septic saver system". I made my own version of it with a large aquarium pump in a single chamber tank. Only drop the stone about halfway down the water level in the tank, so it wont stir up solids. Ive had mine going for a couple months now and the effluent (before going into the soak bed) is nearly clean water.
@@arrow09 How has the aquarium pump work for you (and what size was it and what size is your tank.)? Are you still using it now? How has it worked out for you long term?
from the diagram you seem to be implying that putting drill holes on the top of the pipe is the way to go. I think that is the worst idea ever. You want to have the holes on the bottom of that because the crap is going to plug up the holes on the top.
Please explain how that will happen if a constant flow of air is coming out of the holes. The holes only obstruct when the air pump has been inoperative for a considerable length of time. In that case no matter how the holes are orientated they will plug up with all the "crap"!
I need help! I know nothing!!! Still!!! As someone who is naturally mechanically inclined, I have never encountered another task with so many variables and unknowns, questions!!!!!! ???? What a frustrating Thang!!! Thought I understood.... turns out nope! Do I have one of these pumps! I mean what in the heck!!!!! My septic is either the most advanced system known to man .... or it was installed by ignorant hillbillies. The thing is I don’t know which. It’s 50/50.... I’m confused! I’m frustrated! Just about ready to dig a hole in the back yard... buy a eskimo style fur coat and build a outhouse. This is so complicated. I have been trying to figure out what’s wrong with my septic for a month. I’ve spoken to expert‘s not a single person nor video has even mentioned the pump until today
