Thanks. Just went through the receipts. Looks like the current cluster that's in the truck was replaced by the dealer in 2013. I just found an article regarding the brake booster. Looks like in 03 they used an assist brake booster pump and it's no longer in use/production and no replacement can be had. My current one has failed. So I imagine I need to program my cluster to disregard this message. #PIT3568B
Recently changed the smd LEDs in my Tacoma cluster from orange to blue. Would have appreciated bench power. Changed the smd LEDs behind clock display. Burnt a pad off the board, severed the trace. Was able to jump it. Learned a lot. Should have bought the Ebay practice boards before I decided to go at the cluster. Going to be researching your tools, and bench power. Thanks for sharing your process.
Just seen this. Nice setup and repair. I fought a 95 Ranger cluster gauge setup for a while because of a faulty stepper motor. It ran me around for a while until I finally changed it. Fixed everything.
i got my cluster rebuild and funny enough my temp dial isn't consistent and now i know why. I stumbled upon this video by pure luck and now i subscribed
Just shows you get what you pay for. Excellent job keep up the good work you do exposing the truth about the novice vs expert. If mine screws up I'll know just where to send it to. Another quality job,done right.
After motor and light replacement and reflowing all the typical resistors on the board, once you plug it in to truck 04 Silverado all the lights comes on and engine light but no motor noise nor DIC or PRNDL I have a known backup unit I use for testing on peoples vehicles and it worked fine so I left in the dark to what causes the issue. After viewing your vids Im sure you have seen this before. If you do point me into the right direction then I would certainly have no problems in sending you a token of my appreciation
Damn how can people give you a thumbs down? You do awesome work especially having to fix someone else’s screwup. I wouldn’t even try to do it. I’ll send it to you
As far as the thumbs down, some people are hard to please. And that's ok, I don't loose any sleep over it. As long as I'm over 50% thumbs up I'm doing ok : )
damn dude, u literally just fixed the exact thing i did to mine! lol. i just sent mine off to a gauge repair in wisconsin to get it fixed, hopefully they can fix mine as good as you did on this. damn great job man.
jeffescortlx yea they charge extra for circuit trace/repair. Check em out gmgaugerepair, I will delete that if u dont want another companies name on here.
I'm not concerned about competition, plenty of bad GM clusters to go around. I don't charge extra for trace repair from failed repair attempts. Unless there is broken glass displays, or broken plastics or unrepairable boards.
My 04 LeSabre was like this with a non working fuel gauge and speedo. Why this was never recalled I’ll never know. I had a speedometer app on my iPhone which helped and thankfully the odometer worked so I figure out how much gas I had fairly easily.
Nice. I've rebuilt the cluster in the last 3 Chevys I've owned, they're really simple. This time I tried to build a power supply so I could bench test but I couldn't get it to work. I used an old AC adapter I had but I don't think it pushed enough current, it said 12 V but when I checked it with my meter it was only putting out 7 V. It wouldn't even illuminate the bulbs.
A few years back, I had a 2004 GMC Envoy And the cluster gauges started going crazy. The Gmc dealer wanted $2500 to replace it. I sold the vehicle instead. Surprisingly I got blue book for it !
Hey boss what metal and guage did u use to make you’re jumpers? I accidentally let my sodder cool and tore a gold strip out please share ur knowledge thank u
I`ve been repairing these for 7 years now myself. I cringe every time I see where someone has opened the cluster prior to me pulling it. I fully understand folks trying to save money and attempting home repairs but please people, know your limitations. nice vid sir.
The destroyed pads: is that a result of too much heat or too rough with the soldering iron? I'm looking to do the repair, so watching this video made me really think about this. :D Also, it would have been nice to actually see how you did the jumpers: it went so rfast, and the detail is so small that you really can't tell what you're doing.
My newer videos are done under a microscope so its easier to see what I'm doing. Go to my channel page to see more. The pads get pulled from a combination of too much heat for too long with too much force.
Thanks for posting the video as I'm planning to replace my stepper motors. Seems like you definitely have a deeper knowledge than some of the DIY folks posting on here. Years ago I worked on electronics equipment and it was standard practice to have ESD protection before handling cards. Do you take ESD measures when working on these clusters, or is the card designed to be resistant to static since it's installed in a vehicle?
Daniel Tait I don't wear a esd strap. But I also don't work on carpet, my chair is leather and if I get up and sit back down I touch the ground pin on my power supply. Plus my tools and mats are esd safe.
Hey groceries! Oh wait, it's an instrument cluster. Sorry. Some assembly required. Just for fun, let's try this - whenever you find something ruined by a bad self repair, use a horror movie sound effect such as "cha cha cha" from Friday the Thirteenth or maybe the Janet Leigh scream from Psycho. Just kidding. Great job on repair!
@@jeffescortlx Better yet, pay a female friend or relative to record a scream or treat them to lunch (not to discriminate but female screams work best IMHO for that traditional legacy horror scream)! Instant sound effect! You can use a smartphone to capture the scream using the built in voice recorder app (both Iphones and Androids have them) and record it to a sound file, then email it to yourself.
@@jeffescortlx Sure. But just about every industry has seen variations there of. Example:Deconstructed Chainsaws in a bag, box, or my favourite a pillow case. Including carb in multiple parts. Some home mechanics will try the same with their motorcycle engine... Small engine mechanics/technicians amy discount if you bring it just the engine but a box of parts is a pain as you spend more time reassembling the engine and then fault finding the original problem (assuming the fault is still present after cleaning field paths and reassembling the engine)
Nice how to video on repairing GM crappy stepper motors they where notorious for. Also you should charge extra if you tear it apart/damage it more and couldn't get back together lol
You have a good point. Other cluster repair techs either charge extra for repairing screwed up messes, or just flat out refuse previous repair attempts. When I do a full rebuilds I allow some time for fixing screw ups. (I'm not the cheapest guy out there) It's pretty rare I run into a mess that can't be cleaned up within a reasonable amount of time. It works out for me and the customer.
Hi, thank you for your video, very informative. I have a bunch of instrument clusters (different makes and models), before trying to sell them, I was wondering if you are able to show me how to create a test bench for instrument clusters. I want to make sure they work before putting them up for sale. I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks
Sure. Step one: Get pig tail harness for said vehicle. Step two: Get wiring diagram for vehicle. Step 3: Send needed signals to cluster to test functions. Might be a mixture of analog and serial data, you'll need to do some home work. You might be able to use a scan tool to communicate, if not recreate ECM and possibly BCM. You'll need to simulate sensors.
Could be a bad oil pressure sending unit, or a short to ground assuming higher oil pressure equals lower resistance to ground. Does it stay maxed with it running too, or just key on/engine off?
Do you have to have a Tech 2 Scanner or can you test gauge function another way by applying a certain voltage to each gauge. Also if I bought a tech 2 Scanner is there any subscriptions that you have to pay for. And the tech 2 can recalibrate gauges right?? Thank you and looks like you do some good work.
OK lots of questions here we go: Yes I have a tech2 scanner. Yes there is another way to run gauge sweeps. No you cant just apply a voltage. The trans temp, oil, batt, gas and engine temp are looking for a class 2 data signal. The RPM and MPH can sweep from a engine/wheel speed sensor that you can simulate from a signal generator. You can run a sweep with just a tech2 without the AC Delco subscription. But if you want to use it for mileage correction, or Radio unlocking or ECM programming you will need a subscription. Basically it's just a expensive OBD scan tool, with some special features with out the subscription, but if you want to make any software changes to something like to reflash a eeprom you'll need the subscription, and it's not cheap. You could use the tech2 to help calibrate since it sweeps the needle to the exact start and end point, but there are less clunky ways. OK back to work now!
What would be another way to sweep the class 2 gauges? My brother has a Tech 2 but I was just trying to come up with something else for fun, I have been looking at an arduino with an OBD II Uart possibly.
@@eversr007 gm 1 car programming is $40. for a year for that car only . I buy subscriptions all the time to program gm's . $40 for a year on a car is great .
I did replace the stepper motors on my 04 Duramax cluster. they all work fine. Kit I got came with 6 motors so I didn't replace the Trans temp. I didn't replace the bulbs as they were all working. Now I have one bulb out and don't have bulbs. Cheaper to buy another stepper kit with bulbs than to try and buy just the bulbs. The one thing I haven't resolved is the DIC. Its very dim and practically unreadable in daylight. Did resoldering all the resistors help with that problem?
I do something similar for the locals. I will set up a 30 minute appointment and do it on the spot. My office has a small waiting/seating area for the people that like to hang out and watch. I might not be charging enough at $120.
I would agree with Paul , it would have been a lot better if you could had close up shots of what you were soldering , and why , maybe how to replace lights etc . But good job .
I have an 05 GMC Sierra all the gauges and Odometer stopped working all at once. Is this something you can repair or is it another issue, as they all stopped at once. Thanks Let me Know
@@jeffescortlx Can u send me your email address to viperboy6969@hotmail.com with info. I put my 05 Cluster into my 04 today and its still dead. THe lights work but all gauges r Dead Thanks. John I need Shipping address with your cost thanks
@@rjones93257 well the 03-06 are all plagued with faulty stepper motors. But each year has a different revision board, and the 05's are less likely to have power loss issues. But there are a lot of cluster re-builders out there that charge under $200 now.
I have a 2003 Trailblazer. The odometer was going dark but came back on if I tapped the clear plastic on the cluster. My experience tells me that intermittent is often a bad connection. Probably a solder joint. The speedometer also was not working. The needle was stuck in full clockwise position. I removed the cluster and dismantled it. I ordered an X27 stepper motor to replace the XC5. They were only $4 so I got an extra for spare. I replaced the motor for the speedometer and re-soldered the connections for the odometer. I tested and the odometer now works. But, the speedometer doesn’t work. It does turn from 0 to full clockwise and back but when the vehicle is moving, the needle just wiggles or vibrates. I used my OBD II wireless device and smart phone to check speed. All works but the motor. Any ideas why the motor just vibrates?
You were right. I checked continuity from each pin to the first connection. (I cleaned the first connection first.) One of them was open. I soldered a wire from pin to connection and the speedometer now works. Thanks.
So I have Chevy Silverado classic v6 manual truck and my change oil and indicator isn't popping up on the read out anymore but yet when I change the oil and do reset that comes up any idea what's going
Sorry I can not. I can only flash EEPROM information, unfortunately the steering wheel options along with MPG and extra trip functions are in the processor chip.
Very nice video! I am about to start repairing a cluster from a 2005 silverado were the owner has removed the SMD LEDs for ABS and brake failure indication (dont ask me why). Are these LEDs coloured or do the colour come from the plastic film? Do you know of any leds that can be used to replace the missing once?
You will need red 3528 smd LED's. Yea unfortunately its cheaper to destroy the led rather then repair the ABS system. Its a dick move, even worse when they go out of their way to break it off rather than put a piece of electrical tape over it.
Any idea what could cause to the same cluster as shown in your video the odometer display to be pretty dim. PRND display is shine and bright, because the resistors has been reflown, but the lower display is kinda dim. It takes few minutes for it to come to appropriate brightness, but immediately after the power up it is dim. Is it usually VFD display itself, or any mosfets, or crappy lead-free solder or something else?
Jurijs S I'm going to guess you have a 2005 revision. They just have bad driver info VFD's that get dim with age and use. 2003-04's don't seem to do this.
This one is actually 03 or 04. Not 05. When you talk about 2005 - do you refer to the driver chip underneath the actual display or actual VFD display? I know it was usually problem with 05-07 clusters. For me it looked like the bad VFD.
What is the easiest way to disable the bulbs for abs and other lights that are on because I don't want abs and pulled the fuse. Electric tape is ok but was thinking more permanent. Thanks
My 03 sierra none of the gauges work or the display bar or the prnd321 either but all the lights are on. It would start working whenever it wanted but now nothing works again and I have a code p0650. Do you have any idea what it can be? I took it apart and all the welding looks on point... any ideas?
Jeff : I bought a tech 2 and was wondering if you could share how you wired the obd 2 connector to the instrument cluster connector to do gauge sweeps on the bench ? I would be glad to pay you for a wiring diagram , Thanks Mark !
jeff, i had taking my cluster out and notice that that pieces were lose in side . looks like c359 cap and push and rotate button were broken . are these parts that you might have in your inventory? steve.
is this the creect diagram? codecookbook.co/2003-chevy-silverado-radio-wiring-diagram/2004-chevy-silverado-stereo-wiring-diagram-complete-new-and-2003-radio/
Not the radio. My cluster needs repairs. It came from a 2003 Chevy Tahoe. It has soldered "blue base" incandescent bulbs which two of them are burned and need replacement. Plus The CMOS LED that is used for the "check engine" warning has benn unsoldered when the chevy was made "european-able". I need to put on there also. Every info that cas be helpful are welcomed. such as where i could find the female socket plug for the cluster for as less money as possible (it's more than $150 on Rockauto !), and what type of CMOS LED I need. That way I can do like you do : plug it on the workbench and check for my progresses as I made repairs.
Super helpful vids, thanks for making them. I have watched a few of yours for a random reason - I am seeking a signal that tells me my 2002 escalade is not in Park (either through the existence or absence of a 12V or ground signal). I was hoping to snarf it from the instrument cluster connector but from your vids I can see PRNDL is coming over the data feed... so unless I build my own computer I guess that won't work... Do you happen to know where I can get a 12v or ground signal that tells me the tranny is not in Park? Alternatively where can I snarf the state of the Neutral Safety Switch from inside the car (under the dash area)? Many thanks!
Nothing is broken. I want a line that tells me the car is our of park so I can add a relay/buzzer to warn the driver that they have shifted out of park while the emergency brake is depressed. The Parking Brake warning light in the cluster is an insufficient warning - my teenagers keep burning up brakes driving with the brake on. So I want to add a buzzer that annoys them if they attempt to drive while the parking brake is depressed. If there is no wire that provides a "not in Park" signal then do you know which two wires form the neutral safety circuit? That would be a second best alternative (such that my buzzer will sound when ebrake set while not in Park or Neutral). I watched your videos hoping to snarf a signal into the instrument cluster - hoping that the PRNDL indicator was set by independent 12v lines... but your helpful vids have shown me that is not an option... that the PRNDL indicator is a data feed. I believe I have determined that the transmission is sending PRDNL as 12V signal from the Neutral Safety Switch. -> The NSS wiring from the tranny looks like this: www.amazon.com/Aokus-Transmission-Connector-Compatible-Automatic/dp/B083543DJY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1O3LXOH356GMK&keywords=Transmission+Pigtail+Kit+for+GM+4-speed+Automatic+1995+to+2004+4L60e&qid=1644774465&sprefix=transmission+pigtail+kit+for+gm+4-speed+automatic+1995+to+2004+4l60e%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-5 -> Here is a wiring map for those plugs: www.replicarclub.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/4l60e-neutral-safety-switch.jpg That harness carries the signal up from the tranny... and eventually to the dash cluster. Somewhere in-between the tranny and cluster the 12V signals from the NSS harness are getting converted to a data feed sent to the instrument cluster. I.e. there is (presumably) a computer somewhere doing that A (tranny) to D (clutter) conversion. Do you have any idea where that computer is located (is it in the passenger or engine compartment)?
Can you explain what the “jumpers” are for that you soldered on the board. Also at the beginning of the video you used your iron on several spots seemingly not related to the steppers, was this just to re-secure the joints? Great video, thanks
The person that originally tried to fix the cluster ripped many of the solder pads off. Since there is nothing left to solder to, I needed to run jumpers. I touch up solder joints that are known to fracture, its just preventive steps to help avoid future issues.
Hey, I've replaced bulbs and steppers in over 25 of these clusters over the past 2 years. I know how to fix the no startup and no lcds. I've ran into a problem with a few I was unable to repair. One cluster seems like it's a power issue as when I power it up all the steppers start to skip and then stop, only making it about 25% of the sweep. Keep powering it and they just keep walking. Another one it would sweep when powered but the message display (with D.I.C.) would start messing up, flipping up random letter numbers and changing languages. Any knowledge you have about these problems would be appreciated. This video is the first of yours I've watched. I just subscribed!
I first recommend to reflow All common fractured solder joints. Besides the 3 resistors to the left of the regulator, the 2 diodes, the set of 4 above the MPH stepper and the set of 16 ohms to the right of the regulator. And the other larger package resistors. This should take care of most issues. If it still won't boot it could be because of a open via. Check the inductor filter to the top left of microprocessor for vcc.
I was doing my neighbors cluster, since hers is having intermittent cut out on cluster working and then whole cluster stops working including her driving lights, after resolderind the Crack resister, now her oil guage does not work, and it was working before, any thoughts on this? I only resoldered the two resisters that I saw cracked only, I didn't redo all of them.
jeffescortlx I’d be interested in a quote for that. It’s just totally dead. It also needs that odometer chip since I guess they’re only programmed to read up to 200,000 miles.
Good day sir. Well I went ahead and did very very "stupid", long story short, I soldered on a jumper wire and forgot to remove it before testing, when I finally figured out the only problem was simply a truck fuse. Can you tell me what I may have burnt out and how hard it maybe to fix? The jumper wire I installed was directly above the center stepper motor, where there is an open resister slot (resister 122). The same open spot as on the board your working on in the vid. All lights still work but no power to any gauges. And a slight burn mark where my jumper was. I know, I know, way beyond stupid but I only know how to learn the hard (expensive) way. Anyway, any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks. Bryan from Belize:-)
I replaced all motors and some bulbs, rpm stepper motor is jumping around inconsistently. How do u know if it is missing pads, and how did u use jumpers to correct it? Thanks
Do you know if I just go to the wrecking yard and get a used cluster and swapp mine for that one does my old mileage display or does the cluster I swapp with mileage display on the cluster? Don't have time to do the repair .
The odometer value is stored in the cluster. So if you get a junk yard unit that came out of a truck with 300k miles, it will show 300k miles in your truck. Plus there is a high chance there will be something wrong with the junk yard unit, unless it was recently rebuilt before it ended up in the yard.
