"redneck voice": yeeeeaaahh I got me a 2004 Toyota frontier 4x4 with 2 miles, bullet proof at it's finest here. Especially when I go off road at Costco market, switch that puppy to hi 4x4 . TRD nismo for life "
I've had my 04 since new, and it is the best vehicle I've ever owned. It has over 200 thousand on it, and I've done almost nothing except change the oil. I replaced the serpentine tensioner, brakes all around once, window cranks, and rear shocks. When I bought it, I knew it was a first-year vehicle, so I picked up a spare engine (18,000 miles) out of a wrecked one. That poor engine has been sitting for almost 20 years! Great truck and I don't know if I'll ever want to replace it.
@OPOL didnt have much time to search for a private seller with a deal at the peak of the used car market. Guy rear ended me and totaled my previous vehicle.
I found a 2007 colorado with the z71 suspension pkg and 131000 miles on it, for sale at $7000. Its extremely clean inside and out with a nearly flawless carfax report. It has the 5 cylinder motor in it. My question is, should I buy it? I currently have a very clean, solid 2014 Nissan frontier desert runner that Im about to sell because of a great profit Ill be making from the sale. So is the Colorado something I should be considering? Not gonna use it for any heavy duty work, just light loads on normal roadways (city driving). Thank you in advance!
@@lam-kq7bn not sure now, the frame rusted out and pretty much disintegrated. I had to replace the truck as it was to dangerous to drive on the road. The motor and transmission still ran perfectly though.
These trucks are a great platform for LS swaps. If you are going to buy one, get a 2007-2012 model because those had less issues and don’t tow heavy loads in these trucks because you will burn up the transmissions in these trucks. I would only tow a small lightweight trailer behind it.
I have the 04 5cyl z71 4x4 over 300k miles. I have pulled a 16 foot duel axel trailer hauling a tractor, full size cars,and full size trucks. Never any transmission problems whatsoever.
@@workingman9745 Same never had an issue , and Iv towed wayyy over gm recommendation. They were rated at 4000 . But they can easily do 5500 . Although most iv done was 6800 I think . But zero transmission issues
@@shipmastershadowofintent5249 I ONCE pulled a 16 foot double axel trailer loaded with shingles piled as high as possible and one tire even went Flatt. That was way to much but like I said I done that ONCE 😅
I think he might being saying this because they used the same trans in the chevy van and they would burn up because it had no air flow. All the trans have a bad rap now. I changed the oil on mine at 100 thousand and the magnet only showed small pieces of metal really no wear at all.
I am the first owner of a 2006 Chevy Colorado 4wd with all the options available at the time. Mine is nearing 250,000 on the original engine and transmission. I live in a no snow area, so I plan to get a remanufactured engine and transmission, go through suspension front to back, replace all brakes, rebuild the rear end, and replace the leaf springs (mine has a lean). I’ll also replace the radio (upgrade for Bluetooth), replace a damaged door, and have a basically new truck for $10,000 in parts (I’ll supply the labor).
I have a 2011 4 by 4 crew cab, with the 3.7 liter inline 5-cylinder engine. I bought it brand new in April 2011. It's running great still, with 115,000 miles on it.
2006 Colorado 3.5 here. 170k miles with perfect compression. With the lock cylinder not recognizing the key, the issue is usually just a worn out key. I have replaced my key twice and both times solved the issue for $5.00. The key ridges get worn out going in and out of the ignition so much that it becomes hard for the truck to recognize and trips the immobilizer. I've owned the truck for 8 years and owned it since 65k miles. Only things noteworthy that have broken are a cracked manifold, brake switch and blower resistor. NBD.
Indeed! Hate waiting for the security light to stop blinking and then starts. Even with the VATS tuned out it still triggers the light. The first things to go were the cracked manifold(use to be $768 at the dealer only in 2008 and the resistor/blower wire harness that I bought new as well for $96. At 196k the engine needed a belt tensioner and oil pressure sensor replaced. Almost 19 years and for the rest of my life. Atlas engines are my passion.
The 5.3 Colorados and Canyons are not flex fuel engines. They also don’t have the AFM. The 2009 engine is the LH8 which does not have any of the above and also does not have VVT. The 2010-2012 5.3s are the LH9 which has VVT but nothing else.
I have a 2010 3.7 4wd Colorado and let me just say that all the engineers where in different rooms when they came up with this!! It has a decent engine, the i5 is durable and lasts long. I have 186k on the dash and the engine is running strong! I don’t like that they put a 4l60e in it though! Don’t try to tow with these trucks if you like your trans in good shape!
Appreciate the video. My 2005 Chevy Colorado 3.5L Z71 is currently in the shop and going to cost me $2k worth of repairs. I love my truck and it’s at 167k miles. I know it’s got much more in it and I’m going to watch the rest of your videos to see what I can do to ensure it gets there. Thanks!
2004 i5 z85 crew cab, 192k currently. I have replaced the brakes, drivers wheel hub assembly twice( the shop didn't do it right the first time, so I fixed it myself the 2nd time around, new alternator, new battery, new water pump. The main problems I have had were electrical stuff. bulbs burning out, turn signals not working(seems like this video addresses all of that). The truck still runs great.
I just had the head on my 2007 model completely redone. Head gasket blew out, timing chain jumped teeth, and a myriad of other electrical issues. It all came crashing down at nearly 260k miles though, so I'd say mine did pretty good. Just got it back and its running good as new though as the entire rotating assembly is in pristine condition. Only ever had minor issues with electronics otherwise, and she's back to rolling strong for another 260k.
2009 Chevy Colorado I4 RWD. Great video. Brake light sensor did go out at 70k. Thermostat replacemented to get the AC back, break booster replaced as well. Truck leans 1 inch lower on the driver's side. All in all great truck, never stuck... Knock on wood.
@@palebeachbum they call it the "chevy lean." basically its the weight of the driver and the gas tank that causes the left side to settle or sag a bit over time. new front struts will work, or if you have torsion bars (4x4 or 2wd Z71) you can just crank the left side torsion bar bolt to adjust the height and compensate for the sag
@@JackBarlow.1 thanks for the info! Mine's a 2WD SL. It's bare bones so I'm guessing I don't have the Z71 package. You don't happen to know how much it costs to do front struts on this truck, do you?
@@palebeachbum they don't have "struts" they have upper and lower ball joints with a torsion bar acting as the spring. I don't know their adjustable but I hope so cause my o7 Colorado does this.
I’ve got a 2008 3.7L 2wd with 130000 miles on it. Keeping my fingers crossed I don’t have any of these issues but as of now it runs great. Decent gas mileage too. About the same as my 2005 v6 mustang.
My 07 has 200k and runs like a champ I paid 10k for it a year ago and it has definitely been a good truck for it being a budget truck I wasn’t expecting it to last this long
I have a 2010 3.7 5 cylinder Colorado with 205k miles on it, traction control does not work which means no abs, check engine light is on for emissions bank leak, constantly beeps at me but other than that, it’s a super solid truck. I actually love this thing
A wheel sensor is bad, 07 and up have individual lines out back with wheel sensors as well. More than likely it’s your front hub. Have it scanned by a knowledgeable person. For emissions could be a faulty gas cap or your evaporate canister could f the $15 cap doesn’t work or is working. Dead reliable trucks.
@@WoodLox yeah I just got the traction control fixed. The other issues honestly aren’t even an issue that they aren’t worth fixing. I’d probably get better mileage sorting out the bank code
@@jesus1sl0rd56 depends on what you're getting. the 2007 4 cyl 5 speed regular cab manual im looking at has 120k and theyre asking $3500. the 5 cyl crew cabs are gonna run you way more even tho they suck
Let me say again, my truck had 250 thou and change when I bought it. I wasn surprised when the starter went out only the location of it and the support bolts. Other than that any issues I had were to be expected from a vehicle of this age and milage. I ve owned several Chevy s, was Earnhard's no 1 fan, never owned a bad Ford truck but & would rank Toyota number 1 as far as toughness and dependability.
I have a 2006 crew cab, 3.5L inline 5, 217,000 miles…aside from normal maintenance it’s been a great truck. I really can’t complain about anything. I did have the issue with the passlock not recognizing the key. I put in a new ignition and reprogrammed it. Other than that, it’s been just normal maintenance. Replaced fuel pump twice, just replaced water pump and alternator. Frame is quite rusty but the truck is 18 years old. It’s definitely been good to me.
Can you explain the issue with the from t caliper pins I had a caliper come off last year and had to it it towed to my dads shop I Really don’t want to deal with that ever again. ( I can’t remember if the pads where bad or not but I assum they were. Just a pain in the ass to do rotors on this truck.
@@joestewart5406 Looks like you didn't get an answer but I'll take a shot - caliper pins tend to rust and if they rust in place, the caliper won't release the disc properly. The calipers ride on these pins and the pins keep them square against the disc. This of course wears down the pads and the discs prematurely. I haven't done it on this truck but I've done it on plenty of cars and trucks. Basically you pull the pins (often this may require removing the caliper from the disc but not from the truck - leave the hoses intact), clean them up, put a light coating of grease on them and re-install. There are all kinds of different greases, but calipers can get pretty hot so use something that can take high temps.
@@chipsawdust5816 just bought one recently a 2011 5.3L 4x4...and when you brake hard almost emergency level..it pull left hard enough to freak you out to counter steer so I'm definitely looking into this asap..i lifted the front end and 1wheel rolls about 50 percent more than the other so its sticking a bit. Is it a caliper or a brake line clogging or maybe the pins..that didn't dawn on me thanks for answering that question
@@javiertrujillo3136 I've rarely seen clogged lines, so I'd probably check that last. The pins or the caliper pistons are more likely to be the trouble (unless you have an alignment issue or something else entirely). If the pins are corroded, that's an easy fix. If it's a sticky piston, those can be fixed as well, but if you don't have a shop, compressed air and a few bits of emery cloth, an exchange part might be the better route. Any more, I buy exchange parts as they're quick to swap out and bleed.
I ordered my 2005 Canyon new and it's been very reliable, although it only has 64,000 miles on it. I had a couple of minor things done under warranty in the first few years. Now that I'm writing this I will probably have a major issue come up soon. 😎
I have a 07 standard cab rwd 2.9L and I am younger so it’s my first truck but we do have a little boat 1700lbs and I tow it around lots with my dad or mom does great the 2.9L is a good little engine love it
I have a 2006 Crew cab. Its been a great vehicle. Had the valve issue but had it fixed under warranty, well... I didn't really have the issue I just took it in and said its been running rough and they decided to replace it with no run around. Also just replaced the fuel pump it rotted out. But that's all I've ever really had to do beside standard maint.
I've had a 2007 with the 3.7L since new. 113k miles. It's been a great truck overall. Emissions sensor at 50k. Ignition at 70k. Only other issue was a leak at the third brake light and my brakes sometimes stick. That's it. I hope I can get at least 200k out of this truck. Currently feels like it'll do that with no sweat.
@@richardsmall8940 I think the 3.5L has valve guide issues. They fixed it with the 3.7L. The 3.7L has an issue with the timing chain tensioner wearing out prematurely. My truck is started to experience that. Slight chain rattle noise at startup. I'll be getting that fixed soon. Runs as good as it did new otherwise.
09 3.7 I have 362190 miles biggest problem has been with the trans -2 rebuilds, Drive it every day for work average 5-600 miles a week. Boss offered me a newer truck and I refused. Helper springs when I first got it in 2013, rebuilt the drivers seat twice. I want to see it hit 400,000 then I will retire. 69 yrs old.
My 2005 ls crew 3.5l, since new has 150000 miles and none of these issues. Well except rust. The problems I've had are charcoal canister vent valve, abs wheel sensor. Overall, I'd buy another (newer) if something happened to mine. The frame is good, but I repaired some big holes in the bed, this weekend that I've neglected for too long. Just ordered a tonneau cover too.
Had a friend buy one new in 2008/2009, man he was so proud of that pile. Smelled like someone chain smoked in it from the factory brand new smelled like an ashtray.
@@jamiekarr3377 that comment was sent to another commenter, but I guess it got duplicated here 😂 However, I can’t imagine being in the northern states. How are y’all fairing up there?
Hey if any of y'all have a weird issue on the road.. like your window stop working.. or your check engine light causes a low power issue and therefore won't give you enough power to get up a hill.. try disconnecting your negative power cable on your battery for ..... Idk 30 seconds and plug it back in and see if it fixes it.. worked for me...
I got a ‘05 with 5-cylinder. Has 200,000-klms .. only major non-maintenance repair .. leaking water pump and heater controller replaced. I live in Canada .. and surprisingly .. no rust. But .. I wash it regularly
I just picked up my '08 Colorado crew cab 4x4, 77k miles from the dealership yesterday. It went it for an ABS Fault (again) & 3 days later - new front hubs w/speed sensors (3rd time front hubs were replaced!), new rotors & pads (not sure why? -rotors were fine but they insisted they be replaced). ~ $2000 - ouch! And I was warned the brake lines will soon need to be replaced due to all the undercarriage rust. I don't drive it that much these days but I guess the New England weather/salt is taking it's toll. I replaced the blower motor resistor this summer & finally got back fan speeds 1,2,3. And the A/C quit 2 years ago - condenser had to be replaced. Thanks for the other issues warnings. I have the inline 5 too. This truck is great in the snow and it can really get up & go.
I have an 06 z71 extended in victory red with every bell and whistle offered by chevy. Bought it brand new in 07 currently sitting at 236k. Still purrs like a kitten. Besides annual check ups and miscellaneous things. All I've replaced is windshield brakes tires the front swaybar driveshaft 4wd actuator and wheel bearings. rockers and bottom tailgate starting to rust through from new york winters but if you ask me these are great trucks. better looking than the new ones. Hope it last me another 250k
I have a 2011 4x4 with the 3.7 5-cylinder, and 100,000 miles. I love it. Bought it brand new in 2011. It's in good shape. I had a frayed wire a few years ago that caused some electrical problems, and sent the engine into low-power mode. The other problem was my fuel pressure sensor went bad and had to replace that. But the suckiest thing is the Massachusetts Winters have caused ALOT of rust on the frame. It seems just like surface rust but it is everywhere and I feel kind of bad about that.
@@OrcaBoat3 I feel you on the rust man i ende up powerwashing as much as i could get off letting completely drying and undercoating with evapo rust and painting with rust reform then spraying the frame and bottom cab with lanolin oil. holding up well but about time for another coat. salt is so hard on vehicles
@@xfastxeddiex I'm thinking of getting such a service done at a place called NH Oil Undercoating in New Hampshire. They claim it's the best. Hey, did any of your frame rust all the way through? or is it just surface rust? Also, has your truck ever broken down anywhere while on the road? I was thinking of buying the new Chevy Colorado, but if my current Colorado can survive another 10 years I'll keep this one. I think mine is much better looking than the new Colorado anyway.
@@OrcaBoat3 was out there looking at it today only real bad spot ive seen is right where the frame turns up over the rear wheels close to the front leaf spring mount there a hole clean through seems mud and such gets trapped in there ill have my welder plate that entire part of the frame and add some gussets to the leaf mount. be sure to spray out the inside of your frame.
@@OrcaBoat3 Yea mine did. Hasn't fallen apart but it's a real bad case of rusty frame. It happened from the inside out. wasn't even visible last June when it was state inspection time. But there is a big hole near the rear wheel, and the outer part of the frame, basically under the drivers seat is gone. I am in the process of replacing the frame, and refreshing the front and rear suspension as long as it's going to be all apart anyway.
I have a 2012 Chevy Colorado 5 cylinder so far the only problem I had was with the blower not working I change the resister it a 4 x 4 4 door with 130,00 miles.
Iv got the 04 3.5 L and love it over 247 thousand miles and havnt replaced much does need suspension all the way around but super cheap on Amazon. Highly recomend the truck straight 5 is a work horse and I feel like it has more to and tq than factory says runs like a scalded dog when I step on it. Love my old canyon and would buy 3 more if I could.
I have an 04 3.5 as well had issues with the ac blower not working fixed it and all I do is change the oil and new battery every couple of years love the truck legit a work horse! I got 160k on mine got it with 80k hoping to reach 250k lol
@@fv5267 oil change every 3 to 5 thousand miles unless the CHANGE OIL message comes on. About once every 3 months add a bottle of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL TO A FULL TANK OF GAS. Mainly just DON'T ABUSE IT. I have used mine at times pretty tough but NOT ABUSIVE. I think another big plus is to drive it if possible every day. I believe short trips and letting them sit to often allows internal damage because a mechanical system needs to run and generate heat to keep internal components conditioned. My average highway speed is 60 to 80 mph. I'm not an expert by any means but my little Colorado still runs strong.
I'm on my 2nd Isuzu I290 4cyl 5-speed (canyon/colorado WT clone) drove the 1st one 200k+ miles. I've replaced both wheel bearings, a couple of brake & clutch switches, and bought a $30 ignition from wal-mart, stole the electronics off of it. I've Beat the shit outta this truck. I'd say for owning 10 years I got off cheap! Best li'l pick-up I've ever owned. It just took a 1000mi road trip & and rode & drove damn near as good as the one I picked up with 63K miles.
Funny you mentioned the breaking in half issue. I bought mine used and asked seller if he offered any warranty. He said sure , if on your way home it breaks in half I got to keep both halves. My magic moment came when starter quit starting. I soon realized I prob could get starter off with correct extensions universals and putting my Christianity in severe jeopardy using non Christian words phrases and activities from frustration, rage and total disbelief why anyone would design starter placement and particularly bolt in back of starter that if I was lucky enough to remove forget getting back with new starter at least without cross threading nightmares and loss of skin from elbows down. My compliments to the design engineers at GM. A real winner. I admit my mechanical skills are just average and with the many trucks and cars I ve owned only got one lemon.while it never broke in half it did irreparable damage my savings account. Have you driven a Ford lately.
I bought a 2005 GMC Canyon Extended cab w/3.5l i5 engine, and it had 138K miles then. Since then, some minor work by myself has been done. I took the MAF and TB off, used associated proper spray cleaners, and fixed the low idle issues. Replaced the radiator, and PCV hoses. Now it has 144K miles. Been very reliable, so far. My only problem left is the electric window on passenger side. I can hear a relay click on passenger side door when I try using the switch from the driver's side to attempt to lower the passenger window. It does not move. I get the same click sound from the same location on passenger door, when I try to lower the window from the passenger side window switch. Do you know what to check for that?
I have a similar problem I don't know what a relay click sounds like but I do know it takes me maybe pushing the button like five times before it goes down. I was thinking maybe it was sticking at the top and just needed some lubricant but I haven't tried that. Did you figure yours out?
Easy to take door panel off and check. My window C channel clips broke and my window came off the window motor arm. No big deal. Took panel off and replaced the motor reglued the window back
Is this a joke? My 08 chevy has been amazing except the periodic "I don't wanna start". I wait 30 minutes and try again.....and bingo, she turns over. I am guessing it is the ignition cylinder. Is this wire accessed behind the ignition cylinder?
There lh9(flexfuel)v8 engine does not have afm. It has variable valve timing(vvt) with bigger injectors to run higher grades of ethanol(e85). Active fuel management(afm) also known as displacement on demand(dod) deactivates some of the cylinders for better gas mileage obviously reliability is affected, vvt is not the same thing.
I love my 06 chevy colorad but oh man does seem give me troubles. Just this year alone I had to get a fuel pump, ignition switch, starter, ecm got fried due to after market radio. 300k miles so I shouldn't be surprised I guess?
My 2005 3.L LS is still going, a little rough when purchased but she's got over 200k miles on her and the moron that had her before I did, didn't take care of her.
I have a 2009 GMC Canyon 2.9L motor. It has 150,000 on it. It's been idling ruff lately. I had it since last December and change the oil regularly. I need to change the resistor to the a/c. It has been i pretty solid little truck so far.
Don't buy if you live in the rust-belt area, mine had 208k miles but the previous owner didn't care for any undercarriage coverage and the thing will rust like crazy. Mine was aerodynamic, no rockers, rust everywhere suspension parts wear fast on salty roads, door handles will fall on cold weather, electrical issues, as mentioned in the video the gas pump will rust on top and last but not least the frame will rot inside out and I had to let it go even if it did run and drove until the end.
Rust on the frame is giving me trouble in my 2011 truck. I've been putting NH Oil Undercoating on it for the past couple of years, including their "rustoration" service. Hopefully this saves my frame from getting worse.
Just saw this video. My grandfather gave me his 2008 gmc canyon. The biggest complaint I have is the truck is a fuel pig. Grandfather didn’t drive it much only has 64000km
My 04 colorado 5 cylinder just hitting 145k and starting to sound rough, needs all regular engine/timing/alternator maintenance soon. Recommend changing gas filter soon as possible. Live in upper Michigan, And the frame is still solid has rust but it's workable. Since owned for 3years Replaced a list of things no more than 5k and now needs required maintenance. As all cars do tho
So which 1st generation GMC Canyon Motor is the most reliable? The 2.8 I4, the 2.9 I4, the 3.5 I5, or the 3.7 I5? There was also a limited Edition 1st generation GMC Canyon with the 5.3 V8, but I don't see very many of those listed. Same with the 1st Generation Buick Lacrosse. They had a special edition super Lacrosse with the 5.3 V8 engine for a limited time.
2009 colorado with 282k miles, looks better than some cars that are only 5 years old, it’s a 5 cylinder by the way😂 I fix something on it once every two months, still an ok truck, i’ve had many of the problems and I fixed them all
Have a 2011 3.7. Ive had to do 2 rear mains, fuel pump, valve cover gasket, a handful of evap leak issues, had the problems splice packs having the tiniest bit of corrosion and causing this not to work. Cant stand this truck
I having a problem with my 2010 5 cylinder all the sudden. Stalls on initial start up of the day or if it sits for more than a few hours. It has over 151,000 miles and this is my first confusing issue
On my 2011, my fuel pump rusted so bad, it looks like the one in this video. Never mind taking the bed off as most people do. I did the job both ways. I would prefer to do it by just dropping the tank. I found secret ways to get the tank straps off without snapping the body bolts holding them in. Anyway, it cost me close to $500 replacing the fuel pump and related parts to it. I got most parts on Amazon at good prices. As for recommending this truck, I could not. I would never buy Chevy again. For example, starter and even the alternator are big jobs on this vehicle. On my Subaru, replacing either is easy. It seems to me that the design team was more interested in having a diverse team of engineers rather than the brightest people designing this truck.
That ethanol gas is what rusted fuel pump and gas tank I done been through that not with the Colorado but another truck and I had to buy another gas tank it ruined it had a little black stuff in it you never could wash it out but keep the gas filled to stop up