I’m getting into tracking my S197 and I would return the car back to N/A if you wanted to get serious with tracking. Anything above 7k rpm gets the oil temperatures sky high on the coyotes and adding boost into the mix makes it even worse. The stock 4 pot Brembos would be adequate with pads/fluid without the extra power and weight too.
Nice! I have not checked in for a while, I'm the guy that gave u all the boss parts a few years ago....so got married, helped make some kids, and everything mustang got put on hold. Just to refresh here was my build.......°2012 mustang GT °Bret Barber Ballenced/blueprinted, compression decked 2912 Gen-1 Coyote block °Boss Crank °Manley I beam Rods/ARP pins °Mahle Cobra Jet pistons °Comp stage 3 NA cams °Boss R&S Race program heads Ported by Bret Barber °Cobra Jet Intake Manifold Ported by Bret Barber °VMP twin 67 Throttle body °Ford Racing LU47 injectors °BBK 1 7/8 long tube headers °BBK off-road X pipe °Corsa extreme axle back exhaust °McLeod Street Extreme Clutch °McLeod steal breaded clutch lines °McLeod light weight race spec flywheel °McLeod hydraulic Throw out bearing °Ford Racing roller pilot bearing °Ford Racing 1 piece Drive Shaft °Barton Hybrid 3 short throw shifter, transmission mounted °AMP stage 3 MT82 build 26 spline °Steeda full street lowering suspension ° Steeda track lower control arms with spearical fittings °Steeda adjustable Pan Hard Bar °Steeda Rear X Brace °Steeda jacking Frame Rails °Steeda Frame Rail Tourque Box Brace °Steeda drive Shaft safety loop °Maximum Motorsports full front end K member and radiator support °Maximum Motorsports adjustable caster camber plates °Maximum Motorsports bump steer kit °Apex 18x9 Forged Wheels all4 °Ford Racing front wheel hubs w/ARP studs °Toyo R888r 275/35/18 all4 °Factory calipers ° Kenny Brown front brakes air ducts °Extreme Stop crossdrilled and slotted °Extreme stop carbon graphite °Russel Steel Breaded brake lines °Ford Motorcraft DOT 5.1 brake fluid °Optic Armor 1/4" Lexan front windshield °Optic Armor 1/4" Lexan rear windshield °Ford 2015 mustang GT fuel pump °JMS voltage booster 5 volts over °MSD coil packs °Race Louvers hood vent °HP Tuner for 91,€54, and €85 Great to see you on the road race track. Really hope to see more of this content. Especially since this is the focus of my build.
I had an larger radiator so cooling system was working fine. I was having a bigger problem with engine oil getting too hot. I had a track pack so I had the extra oil cooler but it wasn't enough. Also seems like every time I go to Thunderhill it has to be 100 degrees. I also had fluid leaking inside my rear wheels. Mine was diff fluid and not brake fluid.
The fluid you found on your rear wheels could have been differential fluid. On top of the solid axle there is a vent on the drivers side. Get the diff fluid hot enough it’ll leak out. Ford made a part you can attach to prevent the fluid going everywhere.
My track build s197 I use ebc yellow stuff with power stop rotors (gt500 in the back w/ steeda caliper adaptors) with oem brembos, bc coilovers, custom build brake ducts, motul 660 brake fluid, boss 302 front splitter, laguna seca wing, gt500 radiator and taurus interceptor fan
If your serious about tracking then a big brake kit on all 4 wheels is worth it and definitely get brake air ducts.. i have them on mine and they make a serious improvement in brake cooling. For better downforce a gt500 wing, and lower the car. Rear seat delete+brace bar and suspension sub frame connectors..this will make handling a night and day difference.
Glad to see you back ‼️ love the direction you're going with S197 , I dig race track setups better than drag strip or strictly show cars it is a Mustang at the end of the day , a drivers car . I bought a 13" GT Premium 6-speed manual in Sterling Grey two years ago , put Pedders SportsRyder Ezi Fit Suspension w/swaybars, BMR Adj Panhardbar, GT Strut Tower Brace, tint , Roush splitters & 20x8.5 AXE CS LITE wheels in hyper black 255-40 zr20 square tire setup. Whish Iist better Brakes , Clutch & Shifter. #mustanglife #s197gt
I wouldn’t race on anything over 90 degree weather but if you upgrade your Radiator fans that should help. Proform makes some good ones that can flow about 4200 CFM from dual 12” fans. Also Reach out to Brian from Pokemaster BS for the shroud he makes the best ones.
I get the same code just driving around town also supercharged. Voltage of TB different than throttle actual. Mine pop up randomly even when car isn’t all the way warm and just cruising or commuting. Wondering if it’s something related to the wiring extension that’s part of the blower kit. Either way wish the best and let us know what causes it
Yo, the fluid you said leaked in the rear was probably not brake fluid. Your rear axle seals may have failed and rear diff fluid leaked onto the wheels. My car did that at the track as well. Replace the seals and your good to go
Upgrade your Radiator fans the fix the heat issue. Pro Form makes some good ones that flow 4100 CFM. And Reach out to Brian from Pokemaster BS for the shroud.
Castrol srf, endless RBF 650 or brembo HTC for fluid. You can bleed your system just once per season with those fluids. Upgrade your pads and if there’s ducting you can add easily do it. Don’t go overboard with the pads and get something super strong as that I believe creates more heat and kills rotors faster. Your next limitation will be tires. Nittos I don’t believe are suited for road course work. Don’t touch the aero. You are far away from being an advanced enough driver to need that. Focus on getting the brake system up to par. It will be a little tricky since a car at your cars weight and your cars power really needs 13/14 GT500 front brakes but I think a pad upgrade should suffice for now until you become a more advanced driver.
@@JacobRDotydoes your car have the 4 piston brembos? They are fine whilst starting at with good brake fluid, good pads and ducting to keep the brakes cool
@@JacobRDotythe tires are too grippy. Sure you will be going faster and it will feel great but it will hide bad driving habits. Driving on track is all about being smooth. If you learn how to drive the car on a ‘worse’ tire you will be a lot better driver when you move on to sticky tires. No one wants to hear this though. You 100% need better brake fluid. Something like Motul 660. Don’t use castrol srf as it eats the seals on the slave cylinder which can cause a leak. Brake ducts are also a must if you plan to do more then a few laps. I can recommend Gloc brake pads. Something like an R12 up front and a R10 on the rear. Be careful running the traction control on track as it can overheat the rear brakes and the rear axle seals will leak. I would defo get aftermarket guages. You will want to know your oil and water temps. My mustangs oil hit 280f within 3 laps so I had to put a large oil cooler on
Yea that and the wear and tear on the motor/trans/suspension=more maintenance/repairs and early rebuilds. Doing it once or twice is one thing but if its a regular hobby you gotta have deep pockets
