Helpful video! Thank you. I made the mistake of soldering with my lines connected to tank. Melted my dielectric nipples. I fully expected the Dip Tube to come out with the cold water nipple...
I bought this water heater ru-vid.comUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
Thank you Mike, for a outstanding video. Very informative of step by step replacement and even replacing the rubber ring gaskets in the pipes for other videos I watch, don't even mention the replacement rubber rings. Job well done, for have to replace mine tomorrow!!!
Question for everyone: If both supply flexible pipes had dielectric fittings manufactured to them, would it not be necessary to change the galvanized nipples? Seems the isolation between the two metals would already be made? Thanks, Garry.
I didn't see any sort of dielectric union in this system. He has a brass or copper female connector attached directly to a galvanized steel nipple. Should have the same problem in a year or two.
With the steel braided cold line, it has a rubber washer next to the plastic insert of the dielectric union with a brass nut around it, with the other end going from a plastic insert to a copper pipe- and on the copper(hot) side, you have a rubber washer hitting the plastic insert of the dielectric union. All this is to prevent galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. So it's not so much the metals but the barriers in-between when you have water flowing through everything. Good luck on your next project! - Mike.
I have the exact same setup for the cold water connection, i.e., shark bite braided pipe that screws onto the lined nipple at the hot water heater. There is something missing here because I have pretty bad galvanic corrosion at the cold water nipple on a year old hot water heater (same problem as my last HWH). I'll bet if you used a continuity tester you'd find that the HWH tank isn't isolated from the copper pipes. I need to do something different this time, like a proper dielectric union. Hope I can get the corroded nipple out. That's the reason I had to scrap my last HWH.
Yes, this hwh was about a year old when I replaced the subpar dielectric unions that we're included with the water heater. Corrosion is inevitable, the dielectric unions attempt to slow it down. A water softener could help the situation. Thanks for the comments! - Mike.
@@mikesdoityourself I got my continuity tester and did some probing. Those Sharkbite hoses and dielectric nipples apparently DO isolate the tank. However, what's causing mine to corrode is the pressure relief valve piping. It is tied in with the rest of the copper pipes for some reason (it goes under the slab and out to the side of the house, too). I bought a dielectric union for connection, too. That should do the trick. So, in summary to all you DIY-ers, you should have zero continuity between the tank and its fittings and the rest of the copper pipes in you house. If you have continuity, you'll have galvanic corrosion.
6:33 looking at the bottom of the nipple, you can see that the plastic insert was just fine. Unlike the top end of the pipe, the plastic extended beyond the galvanized pipe's threads. Since that is the case, it would appear to me that the plastic at this end was crushed. Ditto for the other nipple (9:44). Whatever was attached to the ends were tightened too tight, breaking the plastic? Perhaps the washer in the flexible hose had eroded to nothing, and the hose was tightened too tight?
I had to do the same thing to Rheem water heater I'll never buy another 1 I use Bradford White AO Smith state water heater never had this problem only when I bought the Rheem water heater from Home Depot I wonder why it was $200 less
I had a question,since 90% of water heaters have a water valve that comes from your wall that shuts the water off to the water heater why would i need to "turn off the water outside? when i did my heater i just turned that valve off and it was good to go, i do know some installations do not have a shutoff water valve in the enclosure where the appliance goes so shutting off the main is a necessity, just curious what you meant. i assume is for a redundancy in case that valve coming out of the wall could be bad so just in case?
Yes, sometimes you may have calcium build up in your valves where they can't close or close all the way- a redundancy for sure but it keeps water from spraying at you. Also, after shutting off the water main, opening up a faucet in the house and relieving the pressure is a good idea before taking off any water heater connections. Good luck!- Mike
You didn't mention heat traps those could also be dielectric fittings. That would be the flap or check ball to keep convection cooling of heated water.
can you replace unions on all water heaters OR are there some that are not made that you can unscrew those uniions. AND if so (that some water heaters you cannot change those unions) what do you use for dielectric
Some water heaters made be made to not change those unions - you would have to check with the manufacturer to see if it's replaceable or not. Good luck with your project!- Mike
Regarding the new nipples and new washers on the hoses, any problems with leaking? I've read the washers won't seal against the plastic as good as steel. They don't dig in creating a seal under water pressure.
The hot side should be going into your house so when you shut off your water Main and turn off your water heater/shut off the gas- when you open up a faucet in your home, this will release any back pressure in your hot water line side. So most of the time, you won't have a ball valve on the hot water side. Good luck with your project!- Mike
I had to replace the unions due to light corrosion forming after about a year of use- I can imagine after many years of use how bad the corrosion would be. - Mike
My hot water nipple/ union connection is corroded bad. I’m starting to get a squealing sound any time I use the hot water now. Shower, dishwasher, washing machine and sinks. Could the corrosion be causing the squealing?
@@mikesdoityourself ….At first I thought it was the faucet needing replaced but quickly noticed it was happening with all products using hot water. With it only making that noise while hot water was being used made me suspect the hot water tank. Thank you very much for your response.
You mentioned the unions you installed did not have a backflow flapper valve. Do you have a backflow valve somewhere else on the inlet side or is it not necessary?
In this instance, a backflow valve wasn't necessary but always check your local plumbing codes. A backflow preventer is usually added into the cold water line coming to your house from the street. Good luck! - Mike
where can you get that blue sealant? The tops look burnt. Did someone solder some piping too close to the water heater that caused the connection to fail?
Your local home improvement store should carry the blue sealant in the plumbing section. In the water heater install video, you'll notice that "Shark Bite" push-in hose connectors and valve were used- so no soldering was required, except for the overflow valve in the center of the water heater. Good Luck on your projects!- Mike
Might be a dumb question, but where is your dip tube to push cold water to bottom of tank? I'm not the expert but trying to understand this stuff. Did I miss something? thx
Hello C B, you will have to check your specific water heater to see if it has a replacement dip tube available for the cold side- newer water heaters should have dip tubes that last the life of the water heater and therefore may not be accessible to being replaced. Also, some water heaters that feed the cold water to the bottom of the tank may not have dip tubes at all. So in summary, check online or your nearest home improvement store for parts for your specific water heater to see if dip tubes are necessary or available for your water heater. Thanks for the comments. Good luck! - Mike.
What's wrong when you get a hose for the hot side, it threads into the hot water heater but other end wont thread to the wall piece..Are the hoses labeled as for cold or hot?
On the wall side, there is copper piping so you will want to buy a shark bite or similar hose that pushes onto the copper pipe and has female threads on the water heater side. You may need to clean off corrosion, etc on the copper pipe to get it ready for the connection. The water heater should have the connections labeled- Whatever pipe coming out of the wall that has the water coming out of it is your cold water supply that goes to the cold water on the water heater. Then hot to hot. Good luck! - Mike
What about the dip tube that connect to the cold water inlet nipple? I don't see a dip tube connect to your new cold water side nipple during your replacement.
Thanks for your reply, things I'm not known is, when you took out the old nipple, it will disconnect the nipple with the dip tube. How do you sure your new installed nipple will connect to the existing dip tube. I saw in RU-vid, when people replacing the dip tube, it comes out together with the nipple. Not separated. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Some water heaters are configured with or without dip tubes, some are connected to the union, some might not be connected- depends on the year and manufacturer- definitely research your specific model to find out your dip tube situation. Good luck! - Mike
I believe those nipples are special in that they're meant to Not conduct & waste Heat Energy. When you say "Dielectric", Are you thinking about the Magnesium Rods installed inside hot water heaters as a Rust Inhibitor? But I don't think the nipples Intentionally are meant to do this same job. I'd also watch that any corrosion found on these are Not being caused by a bad Venting, as gas is high in moisture content. And of course, Carbon Dioxide Kills.
@@mikesdoityourself Thank you! I also did not find them at Lowes or HD. Not like the stock ones that come in the new connectors that you can buy at those stores. The "stock" ones are noticeably thicker, maybe by 1 mm than the ones by Everbuilt sold at HD that are only 2 mm thick and more on the rubbery side than the plastic side. Annoying. Yet they are sold as "for water heaters", go figure.
Water takes the path of least resistance so there is a seal/gasket, plumbers tape, or a fitting that needs to redone or tightened to make the watertight seal. Good luck!- Mike
I had those dialectic nipples come standard on my new Rheem XE50MO9EL55U1 electric water heater. I used the Everbilt water heater installation kit 1000 047 550. 3/4 compression fitting for my copper pipe. 22" long stainless flex hoses. Is the rubber ring what seals flex hose? I failed to use tape. All seems good with no leaks. I just assumed the gasket seals. Also, my real question is those little plastic projections on the tank pipe nipples. The Everbilt brass union would not catch since the plastic held it off so far. No matter how hard I pressed down, it would not catch.. I can remove the rubber ring and it will go on. Should I just take out the rubber seal ring and use tape?
Really it depends on where the sealing area is- you can try just tape, just get ready to shut off the water if you have a leak and need the seal, also. Good luck! - Mike
Irritating that modern tank manufacturers......that have tanks with more insulation....results in the top metal cover to sit a bit higher ( over thicker insulation underneath)...YET....insist on STILL using the short 2 1/2" or so,....long nipples. Result?.....the nipple is "Sunk" into the top cover depression.....with only a few threads exposed over the top surface. Almost impossible to remove the nipple without destroying it ( can grab only on the threads)...PLUS....they have some monkey or machine attaching it in the first place such that it is SO TIGHT.....you STILL can't get it off !!!
