Great guidance! This was my first ever face-to-face encounter with the intimidating electrical wires and it turned out that I can tame them 😀 Thank you for providing me with the power to be in control and to know exactly what I was doing.
Lucky me to find this video. I opened up the switch this afternoon and closed it back without changing because the wiring is different. After watching your video and reading the comments, tomorrow I am going to try again. It looks simpler now. Thank you for sharing
Managed to change the old switch out successfully! The old switch has some melted plastic at the neutral (Black wire) out port melted. Finally the heater is working again.
I'm changing my water heater switch to a smart heater switch the MOES one, but the earth/ground wire is not used (most smart heater switches seem not to have a spot for the ground wire) Is it still safe to use without the ground wire implemented or do you think it's ok?
Nice tutorial. My water heater in the toilet is having a 13amp plug. The problem in my toilet there is no currenct supply when i check with the test pen. And out side there is a switch similar as per your video and there is a red light. I check with the circuit breaker they are all in ON position. What is wrong with my toiled 13 amp wall socket. At 06:46. what is the purpose of the black wire, what if i dont connect it. Please advice. Thanks.
I should have watched your video before I attempted my repair! If I already took every thing apart, without using any advanced tools, is there a way to find out which is live wire is IN and which is OUT? (same thing for the neutral). Thank you
Perfect guidance, please can u share how to replace a legrand 15 a switch with indicator. I am confused where the 2 black wires at the bottom of switch are to be connected
Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge. I recently changed a water heater switch and only realized today that when it's in the OFF position, the Water Heater is still ON. Is it because I have connected the `IN' and `OUT' wires wrongly? How do I find out now which are the `IN' and `OUT'?
@@ThePunggolHandyMan Yes, problem solved. Thank you ,Sir. I used a test pen to check which wire is LIVE to know L1 and L2 but I don't know how to find out which is N1 and N2. Guess it doesn't matter, right?
"In" means supply and "Out" means Load For more explanation "Supply" is Grid line and "Load" is your load in home such as light, fan, tv, water heater ......
Hi TPH, is having a heater switch (in the kitchen) indicate that the house already has neutral wire wired? The reason why i'm asking is because i'm planning to install smart heater switch to be used inconjunction with a non wifi storage heater and i noticed most if not all 20a heater switches smart or non smart require neutral switches. Thanks in advance!
Hi. Thanks for this tutorial. My new switch replacement (same brand, newer model) has Line/Load instead of In/Out. May I know whether Line is In and Load is Out or the other way around? Thanks
I've discovered one bathroom water heater switch is working the other way around which is insane because switch off meant that the heater was always working. Can I conclude that the electrician wired it in reverse like he connected the input to the output and output to the input? Easy fix means to rewire it the other way around?
Great video. I have a similar switch but there is no load neutral wire, to the heater there is only live and neutral supply and live load to the heater. Can i still replace this with a smart switch as the models online have 2 neutral slots, one for the supply and one for the water heater?
Hello. Can I ask, cause my old ones are labelled L2, N2 “load”. And my new ones are just Lin and Lout. I believe since supply is incoming, therefore for load it should be connected to Lout, Nout? Am I right?
Hi, I would like to check with you, I had two water heater switch, one located on the master bedroom and outside bathroom which what show on your video, But, the Water heater is install at the master bedroom, I notice I can only on and off using Master Bedroom water heater switch, but I can't on and off using the outside bathroom switch. This is normal? Can I do anything to make it so that I can turn on and off both water heater switches. TQ
Usually each switch corresponds to a power outlet near the ceiling of each toilet. Turning either one on will activate the respective outlet and the heater attached to the outlet. If your heater is in the master, and supplies both common and master toilets then the heater is connected to the master room swith. In short, to connect both switches to become a 2 way switch requires quite extensive rewiring of the walls which should be done by an electrician
Hi there! I am currently using the 3 pin plug (which I know is not safe to do so) for my water heater. Is this as simple as changing the switch to this double pole switch and we are good to go?
Ultimately a water heater should be wired to its own circuit breaker which would isolate the circuit if a fault develops in the heater. The idea is to shut off the supply. Of course a dual pole switch is safer than a 3 pin plug.
I have a toilet that's connected to the kitchen and a room, the primary water heater switch is in the kitchen, is it possible to add another switch in the room that the toilet is connected to? Thank you
The water heater should come equipped with a ground line. If not the wiring is not correct. I think it's best to ask a professional to come check for u
Thanks for the video @thepunggolhandyman . Can I check with you if the switch makes light crackling sounds and the LED buzzes intermittently on and off when the switch is in the “on” position. Would it be a problem with the switch (I need to buy a new switch) or just a connection issue (I can crack open the switch and tighten up the various screws in the hope it works?)
Hi! Thnks for reaching out! This means that you have arcing inside the switch a it is not engaging or disengaging properly. The spark is a heat source which may cause the housing to melt. Do change the switch as soon as you can. They are quite inexpensive and not worth repairing. Be safe!
@@ThePunggolHandyMan Thanks for the reply! It was definitely and arcing issue. The live wire had melted down the contact area behind the switch. Only issue is that the screw thread for the switch seems to have been worn out. So the whole switch is being held together by one side screw. Although not the best solution but would this be safe enough for constant daily operation?
I wouldn’t advise it. I have not had the opportunity to come up with a proper socket fix video yet, however you can use kneadable epoxy to reconstruct the area needed to be screwed in.
Hi. By right if this switch connects to the ceiling rose, when you off the switch, the live wire at the ceiling rose side should not have any current right? What if it does have current when you check with test pen even after you off the switch?
@@ThePunggolHandyMan hi. Thanks for your reply. I will check on the switch. However what do you mean by there is another controlling switch? Because by right from DB it has to come to the switch direct which is the L1. Then load will be to the ceiling rose
nice... been enjoying yr channel... videos are really helpful.... juz for knowledge, what's the thinner black wire connecting at the load pts? should it be of the same thickness used?
Thank you so much for watching! The black wires power the LED. That's why it has to be fixed to the lower terminals (load). So when the switch is turned on, the lower terminals are energised and the LED illuminates!
Hi. I had just brought a smart water heater switch (glass touch panel type) to replace my current water heater switch. Realize that for the new switch, there is only connection points for Load, L and 2 N points. And there is no point to connect my earth wires. For the neutral wires, must I identify which incoming neutral wire goes to which of the 2 N points on the switch? Since there is no connection for for the earth wires, where should I connect the earth wires to?
In this instance it should be a dual pole switch usually L1 is for incoming (live) and L2 (load) same with the neutral. For the earth wires the manufacturer deems that it is not necessary for the switch to be earthed, hence you should join all the earth together via a connector or solder and heat shrink. I won't recommend twisting and black tape.
Hi Mr Handyman Today i tried replacing my old hager heater switch. To my dismay, it does not look like yours. The” old one” do not have the yellow/ green wire! Oh dear, what should i do
Hi, thanks for the wonderful video. I have a question....is there a fuse inside the 20A DP switch? If yes, what is the fuse rating. If no, why not as our common appliance plug has a 13A fuse.
Hi there is no fuse in the dp switch. However what it does is disconnects the appliance 100% from your circuit by disconnecting live and neutral. Hence dual pole. A regular 13a switch is single pole as it only disconnects the live wire from the appliance. Hence if neutral is energised, there is a chance that you still might get a shock if there is a fault in the appliance which shorts the case to the neutral line.
@@ThePunggolHandyMan Thanks for your prompt reply. It is very clear. I got another question but now related to oven replacement. My old oven is connected to a 20A DP switch. While sourcing for new oven, some manufacturer specified upfront that it has to be installed with a 16A fuse and they will not provide us with plug. So I am puzzled that if I connect directly to my 20A DP switch as my old oven does, how should I incorporate the 16A fuse as per the manufacturer specification?
@@bernardtan7068 the fuses are usually located in the plug heads. Not sockets. In saying that, if a circuit specifies 20a or 13a that is what the circuit breakers are designed to trip off in the event of a surge.
@@ThePunggolHandyMan when u switch on the switch, the led on the switch will light up to indicate that the switch is on. do u know what is the voltage of the led light?
Thank you for this awesome guide. I managed to change this fearsome switch. It's really important to know what do you intent to connect. And this video explain them all.
Thank you so much for the video. I managed to figure out even though my old and new switches have slight variations but the general principle is the same.
Err… the one way gang has two blue wires which goes into two L and two black wires which goes into two N. Whereas the 2 way gang has L1, L2, com L, N1, N2, com N, loop 1 and loop 2 and 2 extra thin black wires. Would be very helpful if you can let me know which wires goes into which point? By the way sorry for late reply, old lady here not familiar with RU-vid 😅
I am confuse with the ground wire connection. The old switch panel (at 4:32) ground was connected all together to a terminal point, but with the new switch panel (from 8:34) ground was connected separately two wires go to one terminal and the remainder goes to another.
Good observation! Notice at 8:05 there is a metal bar connecting the 2 ground terminals. So actually they all are connected together. The metal bar is a link, same as putting them all I. The same hole
@TUNG Channel I also have the same issue. It's a Legrand Mallia... it doesn't have black wires. Mine when in 'off', seems to have a little light, when it's really switched on, the light is brighter. I was bothered by it but after a few years, I got used to it.
Hi bro, for the earth wiring connection there is 2 terminals so is there any difference when connecting via incoming n outgoing to this earth terminals. Any fault arises if we connect wrongly on earth terminals..
HI. I am installing my house switch to smart switch and one of my switch connect to my lighting and fan have 6 wires and how to install to the smart switch 2 gang
Hi! I had to change my heater switch. So when i remove the plastic switch, the 2 earth wires were actually not fixed to the switch. Both their ends were joined to a plastic connector which is just hanging loose. Is this ok? Should i leave it alone when fixing the new switch?
Thanks for the reply! This is regardless if which brand of switch right? I was told since the switch has no metal parts, no need to connect to earth. So i have to remove the wires frm the plastic connectors and fix both earth wires to the earth "hole"?
@@shahidshafie9262 yes that is correct. Just connect it to the switch. It probably increases safety by 0.01% but it's the proper way to do it. It will work with the plastic connector without any problems
my appliances (Washing machine, Kitchen Hoods & etc.) power is under 13amp, electrician suggested me to install 20amp power switch. What is your suggestion? Do I really need the 20amp switch for direct power?
Well if it is all running through one switch the total amperage may exceed 13 amps which can overload the switch. Making it into a 20A switch will give you a bit more capacity
I would like to learn more about wiring Houses. I am a Plumber but I would like to learn electrical work and get all the necessary tools pls. Is it possible to get your Contacts pls
What's the use of the 2 thin black wires? And i look at your switch and my switch, the earth wires just screwed in and they are earthed? Its not connected to anything else? 😂
Well it was an actual worksite and I had to wear it in accordance to the legal guidelines at the time of shooting. I hope you don't get a virus from the computer either! We know how they like to exploit the back door.
We connected 2 of the 3 earth wires to the earth port of the switch. In the process of connecting the third earth wire to the earth port, we tried to strip the wire as husband earlier snipped it off clean, and this tripped the whole circuit both times we did that.
We only switched off the CB for the heater, not for the entire house. So this likely meant that that earth wire was connected to something else in the house.
Yes it is. Your cb detected a complete circuit running through your husband and tripped. When faced with multiple wires always turn off the entire house as the Cb only controls live and current may still be present in neutral and ground. Did you use a test pen?
There are a few different variations. But essentially the same. Just ensure the live goes into com and the load goes into the other side. You can contact me on @thepunggolhandyman Facebook for more help!
LESSON 1 - You do not need MUSIC!! In your video. This is an information video, the music distracts from the information you're trying to communicate, It is hard to concentrate with the music ON.
Well some water heaters are meant to be on perpetually like tank and gas while instant water heaters are automatically shut off when not in use. Having a cutoff switch is useful to isolate a heater if there is a fault, but a switch is actually unnecessary. And a smart switch is actually overkill for a waterheater
Hi this video was shot in accordance with IMDA guidelines and it is also regulation during the time of filming in Singapore that masks must be worn during repair works. As this is an actual client's home, mask wearing is mandatory for health and safety.