If your water heater has a conventional gas valve, then the repair will be different: Troubleshooting - Pilot Won't Stay Lit (Conventional Gas Valve) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Lu5GvbvspMw.html How to Replace the Thermocouple (Conventional Gas Valve) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Mx6rZA9Yxv4.html
thank you so much! the reset thermal switch did it for me..i didnt see that mentioned in the hundred other videos i watch..thanks again! much appreciated
This tremendously helped my family get hot water, huge thanks! Dislikers probably got jealous on how good your presentation skills are. You are a lifesaver!
Just saved us 2 day’s worth of confusion! Thank you so much! Best explanation video and trouble-shooting guide I’ve seen! Everything from wording, video examples and pace was absolutely perfect!!! Thank you!
Thank you Bryant, we're glad that you found the video helpful! We've been working hard to make videos with this level of clarity and we're just about to release a series on Oven and Stove troubleshooting in the same style as this video. All the best to you!
As mentioned here is the Oven and Stove series which includes some "How it Works" videos. They are quite detailed with some 3D and 2D graphics: ru-vid.com/group/PLCo9SMjkdWBzSdZB9Un3GKKI0Iohlpf9a
I bought this water heater ru-vid.comUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
Currently only 57K views and only 35 comments? There must be a name for this strange, repeating, theme/scenario where quality material gets overlooked in favor of material made from turds. So far I've watched probably 30 videos on this exact topic and you're the only one who's given a thorough, proper, understandable, usable explanation. After watching other videos I ended up just getting pissed off and having more questions. We don't need a dissertation on multimeters but a simple step by step with using one on how to solve a small, related problem is perfect. Thanks for being so thorough and so mindful.
Thank you for your wonderful comment! We put a lot of effort into making each of our videos clear, and informative. We try to write a good title and description to help the search algorithm to recognize this video as a quality source that it will recommend in the feed. The number of views, likes, and comments will all help boost it but it can still take a while to grow. For example we just finished a series on oven and stove troubleshooting: ru-vid.com/group/PLCo9SMjkdWBysYYCcg5xQLiVh_cW0JQvt and it will likely still take months until these videos get some momentum. Cheers!
What a great explanation! Not just a how to replace this or that. Totally feel confident diagnosing issues with my water heater now. Real heroes don't wear capes!
Thank you, we're glad that the video helped you gain the confidence needed to troubleshoot the problem! We're always focused on helping people to understand how it all works: We have a whole playlist that you might also find interesting: ru-vid.com/group/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp
Sharing my experience in the event that it helps a future reader. My initial issue was that my pilot flame would not stay on after releasing the control knob. The thermopile voltage was within spec (400-800mv) in an open circuit after 5 minutes, and the pilot and main valve solenoids activated with a 1.2v NiMH battery. I replaced the circuit board and the valve began functioning as intended (you can also hear it clicking as it powered up from the thermopile); however, the pilot flame and main burner would now go out after a few minutes of burning. The controller gave a fault code for a weak signal from the pilot/thermopile. Turns out you are also supposed to test the thermopile with 3.5 ohm resistance to simulate load conditions, and my old thermopile was not able to generate enough voltage under load to keep the control valve powered. After replacing the thermopile, I had to manually keep the pilot flame on for 5 minutes (ie holding knob down) before the pilot would stay on by itself. I believe this is because the capacitors on the board needed to be charged before opening the pilot valve, but cannot be certain. Bradford White M45038 tank with Honeywell 222-47463-02A valve. Swapped circuit board from a Resideo WT8840A1500.
You're welcome Jake! Troubleshooting can be difficult so we put a lot of thought to make these videos clear and informative. We're glad you found it helpful! If you're curious we have many more troubleshooting videos on our channel including a general video on testing components in appliances: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e_1pOWSVUfg.html
@@joebrown4096 Sometimes you get lucky and its a simple reset. We're glad the video helped you out! If you're curious we have many more detailed videos on our channel as well. We definitely try to use graphics and animations in most videos to help explain the concepts.
Good learning from you guys!! I have my water supply that the pilot is on I disconnect the wires white and red and then turn on again.flame is good but red light comeback 5 flashes and for some reason flame dont comeback
Thanks for watching, we're glad you found the video helpful. In all cases you'll want to make sure that the water heater has a good clear supply of air by cleaning the flame arrestor screen. As well a dirty burner assembly can create issues. Overall if the burner assembly is clean, the thermopile voltage tests good, and you're still getting the 5 flashes code, then it could be a faulty gas control valve.
Your video was great but we still have not had hot water for one month. Please help. The water heater is in the attic. My husband replaced the thermocouple, and the burner assembly. He cleaned the air register. The pilot light will stay on forever when the burner is not on. When you turn the burner on and off the pilot stays lit. But when you leave the burner on both the pilot and the burner goes off after about 15 minutes. Thank you for helping others.
Hi Penny. It seems like you have eliminated a few potential sources of issues. Since your pilot flame stays on, you know that the thermocouple is working properly, the gas is flowing to it. The burner consumes more gas and oxygen than the pilot flame. Its not going to run out of gas but its possible that it is running out of fresh air after 15 minutes of burning. For a water heater to run effectively it needs a good air supply. Without a good supply of fresh air, there will be negative pressure creating a backdraft and the pilot flame will likely blow out shutting off everything. Check to see if there is a good source of fresh air. If not you can install an air intake through a wall or the roof.
Could use some help, please! Pilot lights, but goes out as soon as I let go of the push button. I went through these steps but haven't found anything wrong. The voltage raises between 650-850 mV after a couple of minutes. I didn't try isolating the thermopile because I saw correct voltage in the first step. I have a re-settable switch, but don't feel a 'click' or anything when I push the button. Regardless, there is continuity on the switch. No error code on the LED, so it doesn't seem like it's the red light option.
Hi Nick, thank you for watching. The bypass / the pilot setting that you have to push is manual and doesn't require any power to work. So you've verified that there's gas but currently it doesn't seem like the power from the thermopile is reaching the valve. When the valve runs, you'll see a single red light. That is the status indicator. No flashing red light means there is no power to the valve. When you are lighting the pilot will usually start flashing after you hold down the pilot long enough to warm up the thermopile. 1: Try relighting the pilot and hold down the button for longer. Try giving more time for the thermopile to warm up. 2: check the thermopile terminals and on the valve to see if there's any corrosion. Also check to see if they make a good connection into the gas valve. 3: Control board inside the gas valve could be faulty. This is harder to check so you might need to contact a technician. Hope this helps!
Thank you for the video. Unfortunately my pilot flame immediately dies when I release the gas control knob. The pilot flame ignites easily, the thermopile goes to 710mv within a minute or two, and the valve LED blinks once every 3 seconds as expected. However, the pilot flame always dies when I release the gas control knob. Could the gas control valve be faulty? I'm able to "manipulate" the strength of the pilot flame by slightly releasing the valve (flame wants to die). The only fault code I get is two flashes for weak pilot signal detected. There is also continuity at the thermal cutoff switch. Bradford White M45038 FBN tank with Honeywell 222-47463-02A valve. Thanks for your time
Thanks for watching. Based on the fact that your pilot lights easily the thermopile voltage is good, and the pilot goes out as soon as as you release the bypass button, then it does point to a faulty gas control valve. The only other thing to check is if there is any corrosion on the thermopile wires, or if there is a loose connection with the terminals on the gas valve. Anything that reduces the voltage can cause issues. Since the wires are removed for the voltage test, a loose connection isn't factored in that test.
@@AmreSupply Thank you for the prompt response! It is now fixed with both a new control circuit board and thermopile. I swapped circuit boards first and while the existing valve worked with the new board, the old thermopile was not able to generate enough electricity under load to keep the board powered. Of course, I only now realized that the troubleshooting steps for the thermopile included applying 3.5 ohms to it. Could've saved myself another trip to AMRE!
My Sears propane water heater often trips the TCO, but will sometimes run fine for days without tripping. Resetting the TCO lets me relight the pilot, which sometimes requires many clicks. Do the TCO ever fail in these? Mine has very little travel; the button barely moves when I reset it. Also wondering about the igniter; is it normal to sometimes require dozens of clicks to relight? I've also noticed if the heater has just recently fired and the TCO has tripped, it lights on the first click after resetting the TCO.
I should add that I have removed and cleaned the mesh filter screen strip that's in a track around the base, and vacuumed the intake air register from the bottom by reaching through slots in the base with a vacuum attachment I bought for cleaning my dryer vent. The flue vent looks fine visually, but I have not been on the roof.
Hi Hilleary, thank you for watching. A reset-able TCO uses a bimetal disc or strip. Over time the metal can fatigue and warp causing the switch to trip at lower than rated temperatures. Its often best to replace the TCO if its suspected that its starting to fail. As for the ignitor, make sure that it is grounded properly or it might not be making a spark. As well if you have to try several times to light it then its possible that the air is just getting saturated with gas during several attempts. In that case letting it air out a little between attempts can help.
I've got this same control valve and assembly on my Whirlpool WH. The WH is over 7.5 years old and I have replaced the control valve twice along with thermopile/pilot assembly. A very problematic WH. I just replaced the theropile/pilot assembly again because the pilot went out. Now it will stay lit but winks out a short time after the burner shuts off. I've never gotten any error lights. It just goes out when the pilot winks out. Any obvious ideas.
Thanks for watching. If you've replaced the thermopile / pilot assembly then it would be best to check the airflow and clean the flame arrestor screen.
Our hit water tank will run for 22min them shut off and not kick back on by itself. In order to relight the pilot I have to press the small button on my thermo cutoff switch and then relight the pilot. Because this switch seems to be tripping is that an indicator that my cutoff switch is bad? Or could it still be my thermopile that is bad? I am also getting the #2 indicator that I have low voltage to the Thermocouple. I also noticed that after about 15 min of running with the setting turned all the way up to full hot that the flame on the burner went from all Blue to Blue with a lot of yellow flames also. Could this mean I am having an air flow issue?
Thanks for watching. What you are describing is likely an airflow issue. The water heater needs a clear pathway for exhaust gases or the exhaust will build up prevent the flame from burning, eventually causing either the pilot flame to burn out (low thermocouple voltage) or allowing heat to build up inside the chamber (tripping the thermal cutoff switch) As well if there isn't enough air supply it will create back draft which will prevent the exhaust gas from flowing properly through the flue vent. Try cleaning the flame arrestor screen and any dust and debris visible near the flue vent. Check to see that there is enough space under the door, or a clear pathway of air into the water heater room. As well it could be as simple as a buildup of leaves or a birds nest on the roof where the vent exits the house.
I'm having the same issues. Pilot light won't stay lit once I release the button. I replaced my thermopile. Although my meter maxes out at 400vM it gets there quick. I've tried holding the button for 5 minutes. Won't I don't see is what the yellow COM wires do. Could this cause my issue?
Thanks for watching. The wire colors are not the same in all models but the yellow wire might be for the ignitor. If you've replaced the thermopile, and testing the thermopile and the thermal cuttoff switch together gives you voltage, then you've verified that those are good. Check to see if there is any corrosion on the gas valve terminals and then check to see that the thermopile wires are securely connected. If it still doesn't work then the gas valve might be faulty.
@@AmreSupply Thank you for your quick reply! The wires I'm referring to plug into the COM port on the control value. In your video I see you have a COM port, just nothing plugged into it. The two yellow wires go over to a device that mounted next to the sight glass. It's not the thermo switch as mine looks like the one in your video. This hot water heater isn't that old, maybe 7 years. Everything a clean and no corrosion. I didn't pull the actual control value off the tank though.
@@windsorbowlingcenter2852 Just happy to help. Your model might have a temperature sensor. This is less common but look at Figure 6 & 7: waterheatertimer.org/0-Electric-links/basic-parts-for-gas-water-heater.html
I'm not getting a status light after following igniting directions, and the pilot will go out if I release the knob. How can I test the control valve? The thermopile goes up to 680 mVDC the goes OL (is that bad?). There is continuity between the thermal switch.
Hi Joel thank you for watching! When you test the thermopile it should hold a consistent value. The thermopile voltage is good but the fact that its jumping from 680 mV and losing continuity (OL / Open Loop) implies that there's a bad connection somewhere. It could be the wires or the connectors or the multimeter probes that are giving you that intermittent voltage reading. Look for any corrosion on the terminals, and inspect the wires. Also the fact that you have gas to your pilot means that the gas valve is opening, so it would be best to replace the thermopile first before going to the gas valve. Hope this helps!
Thanks for watching. A continuity reading is any resistance 0 and above (it means there is a path for electricity to pass through). A switch will often have a continutiy reading between 0 and 1 ohm. If there is no reading, indicated by - - - - - - - , or OL, or a blank screen then there is no resistance and the switch should be replaced.
@@ReefUnderTheRoof Thanks for watching. If it still doesn't stay lit try cleaning the thermocouple threads that screw into the gas valve. If there is any corrosion then it will reduce the voltage. As well any issues with the airflow can also prevent the pilot from staying lit which is why it's good to clean the flame arrestor screen.
Hi Robert, thank you for watching! If the pilot won't light at all it could be an issue with the gas valve. If you're curious the steps are shown in this video with some of those considerations as well ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d-KRwKdRNYI.html
