Thanks so much for your video. I am installing a new post lamp by our front walk. Your video was very helpful in showing how to avoid water in the connection.
Should be a disclaimer made from video maker that he is not a licensed professional. I know this is an old video, however I cannot express enough the thought of what I just watched. 1st of all, good try and it will work. Is it the proper way, NO 2nd, the lugs you use to do this type of tap have 2 things you need to look at besides the size conductor that goes in it. A: make sure they are able to accept copper conductors. noted by CU on the lug. Dissimilar metals apply here, corrosion is electricity's arch nemesis. B: torque ratings must be followed to the spec of the lug, over tightening causes heat and under tightening causes arc's. So how do you torque flat head screws? answer: they make screw tips that adapt to ratchets. Use the right size to fit snug then torque. 3rd, By squirting die electric grease in the heat shrink you defeat the water proofing of the heat shrink. Heat shrink is designed with a water proofing glue that will ooze out of the heat shrink as it is heated and shrinks around the connection. Hence impossible for water to penetrate and create corrosion. 4th, The waterproof wire nuts are great to use if used properly. In most cases with wire nuts , the chart on the back does not give all the info, hence the reason it tells you to visit website. Do not assume in electrical, it can be dangerous. In other cases the largest wire listed it takes is just for 1 wire only to cap or safe that conductor off. 5th, all grounds in that box should have been connected together even though there was 2 in one conduit. Wiring is not difficult, it is hard work at times. However, education comes into play. Sometimes education is learned over multiple years in the field and other times in a classroom. You Tube videos by DIYers for electrical work is not the best place to educate yourself on how to do electrical work. Electrical is very dangerous and should be taken seriously.
As others pointed out, there is a scotch-lok kit for this, and I recommend it. I don't recommend DIYing it. That said, am I concerned that what I did will fail or be dangerous? No. Good to know about "biggest number is single conductor" for these wire nuts. Maybe one day I'll dig it up and change that, but probably not. As for the grease in the heatshrink, while I understand the PVC liner is designed to seal, I don't trust that. I do trust a bunch of dielectric grease. If the wirenuts just use a rubber boot and dielectric grease, and are rated for direct bury, I'm sure my tight fitting heatshrink with grease will be fine. The reason the grounds were not tied together is that I planned to rewire the barn and use the ground as a neutral. In my area outbuildings can have a dedicated ground rod and do not require 4-wire to the sub-panel. The barn will have a sub panel and there will be an appropriately sized breaker in the main panel to accommodate the smaller neutral. If what I showed in the video makes you fearful, you should have seen what this replaced!
@@eformance Why are you arguing with someone who actually does this for a living and knows the rules and regs, as well as what works and what doesn't? Be humble and accept the feedback of a professional. He's right, you should have put a disclamer at the beginning of the video that you are not a licensed pro and teaching people what you don't know about electricity via RU-vid is potentially very dangerous. Electrical work videos should be made by actual electricians... not weekend DIY'rs who have a dozen different interests in addition to their non-electrical day job.
Why not use same connectors for ground and heat shrink wrap as well for better water proofing compared to gel nuts? I’m just a home owner looking to learn.
Because there are other electrical circuits in the barn that need ground. Also, I'm adding a sub panel in the barn and converting the ground to a neutral and adding a separate grounding rod. In my area is permissable to have a grounding rod at each outbuilding and only run hot and neutral from the main panel, this is what I did when I upgraded the electrical to my shop.
I really like your videos just I think if you picked a topic for your youtube channel, for example, pc building more people would click on your videos and stay on the channel but good job on the video
I can appreciate your view. I've thought about focus, but there are a couple of concerns. I am extremely busy, so the frequency which I release content is irregular. If I focus too much on a given subject matter, I worry that the little content I have, spread across multiple venues, would result in lower viewership. Ultimately I view this channel as a place where I can share content on a variety of different things, just like my real life involves a variety of demands and disciplines. By day I work for Oracle as a Principal Technical Support Engineer for MySQL, but when not at work I work on cars, houses, chicken coops, wiring, electronics, machining, computers, photography, etc. Thanks for your comment!
How do I do this if I need to connect three hot (or neutral) wires together underground vs. two wires? The heat shrink won’t seal around the end with 2 wires exiting will it?
Honestly, I would be hesitant to recommend a DIY solution for this. The pinned comment on this video has a recommendation for a commercial product, perhaps they have a 3-way splice kit you can get?
Yep, buried. That's why I used glued connections and a gasketed box. The top pinned comment has a suggestion on a direct bury waterproof splice kit, you might want to look at that.
I have an outdoor junction box that gets flooded and plan to follow you advise for waterproofing the hot wires and the neutral wires. But why do you think it is necessary to waterproof the ground wires? Ground wires are sometimes connected to copper rods to intentionally create a shorter path to ground - water does that job even better. Just curious.
@eformance damn, I can find them but they all have alligator clips haven't seen anything small that had induction clip only the $600+ ones with the long pole etc
@@StevenGamesWHC They don't have induction clips. You connect the alligator clips directly to the wire, the wire itself becomes the inductor. Induction means induced, so by putting an alternating current on the wires you are inducing a current in the wires that the pickup can sense.
They are capital Sigma greek alphabet characters. They were taken from the Intel 386 CPU marks which indicated they were tested. Intel would put 2 sigmas on the chip to say it was tested and passed. I took 2 upper case sigmas as capital E, then reversed one of the letters to make it mirrored sigmas.
I never ask myself anything........because myself is a habitual lair. He thinks I don't know, but I do! Yes! I do! The jokes on him.......AH hahahahahahahaha NIce video BTW........from me (not myself)
