One last thing you can try before investing in new shocks is to take the shock off the car, bolt it to a bench, take out the fill plug, and work the lever through its full travel. Top up the oil level with a veterinary horse syringe instead of a funnel, this will allow air out the fill hole around the tip. If the shock is at all good, you should feel resistance in the lever as you get to each end of travel. Add oil until full, then keep working the lever back and forth until full. Replace the fill plug and check the action. If the shock is good, you should feel resistance along the lever's full travel. The key with this approach is by taking the shock off the car you are able to work the lever through its full travel. As a last step you can turn the shock over so the bleed port is at the highest point and leave it there overnight. In the morning open the bleed port and top up the oil, allowing any air to exit the port.
I would add one more thing to your comment, if the the damper is removed and on the bench, if it is possible remove the top plate of the damper and fill it with hydraulic Jack oil. Pump the damper lever, fill again reassemble and see if the damper is functional. If not it must be rebuilt at a machine shop - a skilled task.
Just wanted to say that when I got my TD , I was looking up TD videos to watch and found your channel when you were restoring this baby. Your videos are helpful and I’ve been enjoying your channel ever since. Thank you 😊
The spacers on the front bumper bracket are supposed to be between the frame and bumper bracket: Apple hydraulic rebuilds lever shocks. I believe they have an exchange program
I believe those shocks originally used shock fluid which I think was glycol based the seals dry out and it all leaks out if you don't rebuild them the only thing I found that works is like heavy oil 50 weight or 90 weight at least it doesn't leak out as fast.
No, the dampers are mechanical machines. They do have seals, but they are mostly very fine metal machining. Harley Davidson can sell shock absorbers oil. A good substitute is hydraulic Jack oil. The lever Armstrong dampers can be rebuilt. Apple Hydraulics in the USA come to mind, or simply or rebuilt units from a Moss Motors rep. Because they are machines with routine servicing ( recommended hydraulic damper fluid) they last around 30 years
IME, TD shocks will leak oil when worn. if the level of oil in them is low, putting more in may be a temporary fix, if it fixes anything at all. a more permanent fix is to rebuild them. it involves a bit of expertise. but it can be a DIY job. there are a few shops around the country that can rebuild them for you. there is one in minnesota and one in new york that i am aware of.
We always used motorcycle fork oil in my Saab that had those shocks. They Must be filled every so often because they are designed to slightly leak to lube the pivot point
i saw greaseccerts on the shocks. also it appears the shocks are like modular like rubber bushings can be replaced without replacing the whole scissor shock thing. granted ive never worked on anything thing like this and the only time ive been near an MG was the 1967 blue MG B back when i was 21. neat lil car and fun. friend sold it after getting the carb rebuilt cause he was getting on in age and it sat most of the year. hugs love and bee safe :D
Wow, that's set up in the engine compartment just like my TR4 was. Even those lever shocks are the same. Positive ground and battery position. Blast from the past.
I was in San Diego in 1965 and had a 1952 MGTD. Loved the car, did not like how big the front bumper of a greyhound bus looked in the rearview mirror. when I was going as fast the MG would go.
