I came to this video for the shot at frame 29:57 and you folks didn't disappoint! Do you ever get tired of people going on and on about how good your tutorials, schematics, plans, equipment, etc. are? If not, they are absolutely fabulous. Thank you!!
Great job & great video ❣️ You guys are like Doctors at these mobile power systems. I'm impressed with your kits, your spreadsheets and all your videos. You guys help millions of people! At 69 years old, if I can make a suggestion: If you would allow customers to choose their batteries, I think you guys would have to hire installers because your business will be so busy. God bless you ‼️
Hey! Thanks for the kind words! We do indeed let customers choose their own batteries! We just don't have the time to verify charging parameters for all of the 1,000's of battery manufacturers, so we can't pre-program for them all, but we have blog posts that teach people how to do that stuff themselves. We also have installation services available as well! shop.explorist.life -> Menu Bar -> Services -> Installations
I love watching the installation of these electrical systems. I wired up a small scale 600w solar system with 540ah of gc3 batteries in my small cargo van, and I can tell you that it was as fun as it looks to be. I owe a lot of thanks to you, Nate!
Great video. That's a very clean install. I can tell you guys are pros. You are very good at explaining things too. We just found your channel and subscribed. Five years ago, we took an early retirement, sold everything, bought an older MH and hit the road FT. It was the best decision we ever made. We discovered that we enjoy boondocking and it helps stretch our budget too. We quickly learned the advantages of solar and decided to build our solar/battery system in 2 phases, a 12v system for our basic 12v DC needs and a 48v system for our 110v A/C needs. We started with a pair of lead acid golf cart batteries and custom built a 620-watt liftable solar array mounted on the side of our motorhome. We lift the array to the optimal angle to improve their output by 20-30% vs flat mounted panels - even more in the winter, when the sun is lower in the sky. It serves as a nice bedroom window awning too, practically lifting itself to the desired angle with a couple gas struts, and it's easy to clean with a windshield squeegee, standing safely on the ground. This set-up, while far from optimal, allowed us to boondock till we could afford to do better. We finished the 12v part of our build last January, with the addition of a 560ah LiFePo-4 battery that we built with 8, 280ah "A" grade prismatic cells. We use a Heltec 350amp BMS, and a 5a active balancer to keep the cells synched up. We typically use less than 20% of their capacity daily giving us enough reserve capacity for about a week of bad weather before we have to run our generator for charging. It cost us less than $1,500 to build this 560ah 12v (7.1Kwh) battery (roughly the equivalent of 2 Battleborn Gamechangers), including the high amp BMS and balancer. We chose these cells rather than a pre-built battery because they fit perfectly under the steps of our MH where our old pair of GC-2 golf cart batteries used to reside, saving 35lbs too. We insulated the battery compartment, cut a 1" hole in our step risers and installed a tiny computer CPU fan to keep this space at close to room temperature, so we don't have to worry about the BMS shutting down charging if they get too cold - or their life reduced from getting too hot. We use an 80A Progressive Dynamics LFP converter/charger, a 1,000w Renogy PSW inverter (to run our TV, PC, ice maker, etc.), an Epever 50a MPPT charge controller and a Lnex battery monitor/shunt. This entire 12v system cost us under $3,500 to build and takes care of all of our basic off-grid needs except for air conditioning and microwave use. By mounting our solar array on the side of our MH, we left the roof free to rack 8, 550W Sungold Power solar panels (4,400 watts) down the length of our 35ft Class A, 15" off our roof, above our AC, fan shrouds, etc. They will cover the entire roof, providing some nice shade with plenty of cooling air underneath, further increasing solar output and reducing the heat load on the air conditioners too. We bought them for only 51 cents/watt shipped to our door! We're assembling the components for this build now. We bought our aluminum racking material in Yuma, where we're wintering over this year, for under $400, which is the best price we've found. Our solar panels, wiring breakers, etc. arrived 2 weeks ago, but we're taking our time to get everything in and installed over the winter. At 67 yrs old, we're moving much slower these days. Our Sungold Power all-in-one 48V, 5,000W, 120V PSW Inverter/100A charge controller/battery charger arrived last week. Our 48v battery bank will use 16, 320ah grade A prismatic cells which only cost us $1,726 from EEL batteries. So together with our 560ah (7.1 Kwh)12v bank, we will have a total of 23.5 Kwh of batteries onboard (almost 7 Gamechanger's worth) - kept charged with over 5,000 watts of solar. We installed another powered roof vent in the hole that our 24 yr old rear 13.5k btu rooftop Dometic AC was removed from. We're replacing this AC unit with an EG4 28.5 seer-2 plug and play 12k btu mini-split heat pump. This second phase will provide 24/7 off-grid air conditioning, supplemental heat from the heat pump and allow occasional usage of our rooftop mounted Furrion AC in the front of our MH during peak afternoon hours, as well as give us whole house 120v ac power. We'll soon have total off-grid electrical independence on a budget we can afford, reserving our generator for back-up use only. Take care, we hope to see you down the road!
I like the cable raceway I see in your videos to clean up the bay wiring . Do you sell that on your site or have a recommendation for a source? Great job as always on this rig.
This is the best video I've come across for installing Victron, solar, and batteries in a RV. I never knew I could use the Orions to bump the voltage up and charge the 24V, I thought they were only step down. Thanks a lot for the video!!
Those nuts on the solar array tilt mounts look like real drop hazards, especially on that many panels. I'd replace the nut with 1/4-20 stainless nut rivets in the aluminum angle for a nice clean installation and fewer lost fasteners.
Excellent video! I appreciate the detail installing each component! We have an Alliance 5th wheel and im planning a similar upgrade next year. This will be a great resource.
‼ *IMPORTANT INFO* ‼ I'll be keeping this pinned comment updated with FAQ's about this project, kit, video, etc; so be sure to click 'read more'. *Q: How much did this system cost/Where can I get more info about the parts in this system?* A: Here are the parts/kits/components we used for this build. Add everything to your cart and you can get up-to-date pricing. I don't like putting actual pricing here in the description so I'm not being misleading when prices change: Main Kit: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/50a-oem-24v-rv-upgrade-200-600ah-24v-battery-bank-multiplus-3k-24v-2x120v-orion-12-1230-wiring-diagram-kit/ Solar Array: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/2400w-solar-charging-wiring-kit-12x-200w-24v-battery-bank/ System Monitoring: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/system-monitoring-wiring-kit/ Batteries: battlebornbatteries.com/product/12v-gc3-lifepo4-heated-battery-kit/?afmc=explorist_bb67 Be sure to use code 'explorist' when checking out at Battle Born for $50 off per battery (on the Battle Born store). Solar Tilt Mounts: richsolar.com/collections/mounts/products/rv-tilt-mount-28?ref=EXPLORISTlife *Q: What If I want a system like this, but want a different solar configuration?* A. Just follow the steps/kit from above, but replace the solar charging system with whatever you like from here: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/battery-bank-voltage-24v/ *Q: I don't want to DIY. Can you install this system for me?* A: We don't offer installation services at EXPLORIST.life as our gig is making these videos that teaches you how to do it yourself. BUT... we have a network of installers that we have trained to install our kits/systems/designs that you can hire. Contact any of them directly for more info: explorist.life/find-a-certified-installer/
Thank you guys for your very detailed videos, step by step from start to finish. I've been watching some of your videos, it's very simplified and easy to understand in every step of the way. Love you guys from the beautiful country of Papua New Guinea 🇵🇬❤️✌️🙏
This is one of my favorite videos of yours, and I referred to it often when building my own fifth wheel system. The one thing I'll say that didn't work out for me was the OEM Splice Kit. I ordered this from you, and was actually looking forward to using it to splice together my 120V AC lines. However, when I went to use it, I found that the connection bars that you sent were not robust enough to hold the thick 6/3 Romex cable that I was using (my Allliance fifth wheel uses 6/3 Romex from the 50 Amp connection to the breaker panel, so I used the same cable to go to the Victron Muliplus II and back to the box again). I tried and tried, but those connectors just couldn't seem to hold those stiff wires. Not to mention, the plastic mounting box interior mounting screw holes also failed with the stiff wire pulling on them. I ended up buying a junction box, and splicing together the wires that way. Maybe this is partly on me. I wish there was a more robust and stronger solution that allowed those wires to just be connected together, almost like a big Wago 221 connector. Anyway, other than that, everything else worked like a charm. Thanks!
I absolutely love your videos and they are great. You guys are awesome beyond words!. Thanks to your previous Truck Camper video, I was able to install a complete system entirely *on my own* in my truck camper and I couldn't be happier : )
Wow, so professional, I really enjoyed watching your install. Thank you very much for your time and effort in describing and making this video. Great Job Thanks again
You’ll turn off the converter. Just a weird camera angle. If you’re a shop.explorist.life customer, you can always reach out at shop.explorist.life/support for additional guidance.
After seeing what a neat job you do with wiring your systems, I was shocked at the rat’s nest the manufacturer of that RV left behind the OEM breaker box.
I wish this was a Quattro install. It seems a camper that big would incorporate a generator to the system. My 2024 sprinter 170 is being delivered in December. I’m thinking about installing a Quattro. I will inquire much more when I get it. Keep up the good work you two. Great stuff. ⚡️🔋🔌🌞📡🏔️🚐
I too wish it were a 24V Quattro 5k 2x120 install, but alas... that doesn't exist, and the currently available Quattros only have one hot leg and an RV with 50A shore power like this one needs two. Realistically, though, once the Quattro 5k 2x120 is available, the installation process will literally be the exact same as this one just with a few bigger wires and bigger fuses.
Very cool!! like watching your video's! Even tho I have been an electrician for over 50 years I find this type of install very interesting. Thanks for taking the time to record, edit and share!
You seem well informed in this field, can you answer this for me ? I have two 200 ah solar panels a 1000 watt inverter a 230 ah 12 volt lithium battery and want to add a 2nd 230 ah battery. what size copper wire should I use to connect the batteries together ??
I'm currently hooking my inventer/charger up now (multiplus 2 12/2000/80) and have a question. Wouldn't there be a problem hooking the chassis ground to the negative bus if there's an AC fault in the inverter? Wouldn't that create a point for AC/DC to intersect?
Hello, very impressive. Thank you. One question... Why the chassis ground from the Multi and the MPPT looks like the same size as the powering. Is there a reason why it's so massive? Best regards Robert
Great informational video. Thank you! One thing I am unclear on is the 12volt power wire inside the 7-pin connector from the truck to camper. Not knowing how it was wired into the camper originally, did the camper wiring need to be altered such that it only connected to the 12 volt battery ? Thank you again for consistently creating great videos.
Hi there, watched a few of your guys install videos now, and purchasing a bunch of your wiring kits, noticed on this video you guys installed a battery terminal fuse right onto the battery, my question is why this was done on this install but not on your other 30amp 12V trailer install. Thanks!
In short, every system requires different fuse sizes, and the fuse type used is dependent on the available types of fuses. In this example, we used a 300A MRBF fuse because it's easier, fewer connection points, smaller, and a higher AIC. In the 12V system requiring a 400A fuse... MRBF fuses don't come in 400A so we have to use the next best available option; but all of this is figured out for you in our kits: shop.explorist.life If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support
Great videos, enjoy all of them! Recently read how a few 5th Wheelers are changing their Victron & Battleborn out for the 58v Volta system. Have you looked at the Volta system, appears to have advantages to explore.
I looked on your website but couldn't find it - is there a wiring diagram/parts list/blog post for this 24v 50a install? I found the 12v version, but not the 24v... Thanks for everything you do!
Thanks you 2, learnt so much from you. I didnt know we could put 2 dc to dc chargers. I only installed one and it does give out the 30amps rated weird. But love my system. Its identical to this set up but 12v
Excellent video and a great refresher as I install my 1280w system on my Arcric Fox 5th wheel. One question. I don't remember seeing the installation of solar panel breakers. Did you not use them going into and out of the MPPT? Thanks for the video!
Your amazing, you have this down pat. I've watched all of your classes and videos. All I'm trying to do is order a XS and a install kit from you. From the customer side, you just don't make its not that easy.
Bruce, if you'll just take a chill pill; that would be fantastic. You submitted THREE separate support tickets yesterday after I had stepped away from our support inbox to work on other projects. We respond within 1 business day in all cases so I'm going to need some patience on your end with this.
As usual an incredible installation and how to video. Just a comment, I suspect the owner will tilt those 12 panels just 2 or 3 times and then leave them flat for every remaining trip. Too much work to tilt them each time plus the camper has to be facing the correct direction.
Plus pulling the brackets out and hardware out each time... u would think they could make a simple style track like a ezup tent with simple legs and pins or like a sound array that has T pins. 24 sets of hardware and a dropped nut lol and uhoh
Agreed. It took Steph and Grace 53 minutes to lower all of the panels at the end of the project. I can't imagine those going up very often unless they were staying somewhere for weeks/months at a time.
Good video! What output voltage the Orion 24 to 12 converter is set at? For general 12VDC usage, 12.6 seems like a good number, 13.8 is float for batteries, then 14.2 is charge. Or, do you leave the voltage low (something like 12.8) so it is effectively an unmanaged trickle charger?
Quick question...I have a grand design solitude and am looking to install basically the same system. But not 24v...but 12v. Keeping the stock house batteries...I dont need the 24-12v converter. Do I even need the house batteries? Or how would it be wired.
Your videos are really good, I like them a lot, just one small observation, you should not use lock nuts to secure the battery cables to the batteries, those cables get hot and the plastic in the lock nut can burn out with the time, you'll get a lose connector and that'll be a fire hazard.
Let Battle Born know they are supplying the wrong hardware then as we are using manufacturer supplied hardware. Plus, if those terminals get hot enough to melt nylon, we have a whole new set of problems on our hands. 🤦♂️🙄
Hello Nate, I have a 42' ft Class A Diesel that I would love to do exactly what you did there. It already has a factory installed 100w solar system that I want to convert into a 24v just like you did. My only concern is if I will need to upgrade the alternator and also, it has an emergency start system on which if the engine battery dies, I can use this button to jump the house battery to give juice to the engine battery to start. On that case, what would you do? Thank you for the work you do which it is to be admired and thank you for helping all of us out. Best,
First, I really like your content, videos and presentations. I do have one comment that on one practice that doesn’t make sense to me. Why splice into the 50a service line. Another connection can just add a potential point of failure. I think the right way is to pull a new 6/3 line from the shore power plug directly to the inverter and then directly to the service panel. Therefore avoiding unnecessary connections. I do have a BS in electronic engineering so I know a little about the theory and best practices.
Although that would indeed be the 'best' way to do it; those wires are often buried in the walls/floor of the RV and it's not feasible to attempt to re-run them. We've also found it an easier end-user experience to not ask people to re-wire their factory breaker box as not every RV breaker box is the same. The additional connection points is indeed a consideration; but the terminal blocks we use are screw terminals that are very secure and once they are connected; it's pretty set-it-and-forget-it.
Thank you for another great video. We just traded our Grand Design in for a Redwood 4001 and will be doing this exact install with the exception of a possible second MP II 2x120 in parallel in the future. The Redwood has a Xantrex 2000 watt invertor tapped off the 12v batteries and feeds the TV, frig, and 5 other receptacles. Would you leave the Xantrex in place or remove AC output and tie them into the Victron AC output? The RV also has an Inteli-Power 4500 Series Distribution Panel with a built-in converter to charge the batteries. Should I wire in a disconnect switch to prevent a circular charging path?
Usually... those pre-installed inverters like that are on a transfer switch that bypasses the inverter when connected to shore power - so - I'd just leave that inverter in place and when you splice into the line between the shore power inlet and the back of the breaker box like shown in this video; that OEM inverter would always act as if it were on shore power because it's getting power from 'somewhere' upstream (shore/genny/or the multiplus powering the entire camper) and it will simply stay off. For the converter; just turn off the breaker like we showed in this video.
Lo,be your videos, have you done any truck campers such as a Host, Lance, Arctic Fox? Would love to see your innovation in such small spaces and minimal roof access. Thank you for the videos.
Great video - very informative and I like the details you show. I do have one question, given the quality of the install you are doing, how come you are putting bare wire into screw-down /binding posts? This is generally not recommended as the bare copper can come loose over time. Ferrules are the correct approach and you do use them in a few spots, so I wonder why you don't use them on all the bare-wire ends. A ferrule crimper and ferrules are a relatively low-cost item considering the overall cost of this system.
Ferrules are tools to make our lives easier and not requirements, so we use them where they make our lives easier or make wiring look cleaner. Where they get in the way; we don't use them. The spots we are using ferrule-less ends are spots where there is a plate in the terminal that squishes the wires down/together and not just a bare screw end.
Great install. Shouldn’t there be some cable clamps on the splice box? It is high voltage and with all the movement in an rv you would want them as secure as possible.
Strain relief for those wires was handled during wire management w/ clamps. We just skipped over all of our wire management and strain relief in an attempt to not make a long video even longer as I figured y'all could handle that part without instruction.
Thank you for all of the super helpful videos! You guys convinced me to use Victron in our skoolie build, and your store has the best prices. Are you guys considering doing a skoolie install video ever?
I'm sure we will do a skoolie video one of these days, but vans, skoolies, and expedition trucks are all in the same 'from scratch' electrical systems and there's really nothing different in the electrical system installation methods between the three and we've already done several van install videos.
Great video.... I am afraid to ask how much this install costs but its nice to know that Victron has all the hardware to get the job done... Was the owner planning on running AC off solar?
Hey Nate, I'm just finishing a nearly identical install. Is there any reason to not wire two 24/12 - 70 converters in parallel instead of keeping a heavy lead acid 12v battery? It seems like getting rid of that weight/maintenance is the way to go.
In short, there are 1,000 ways to do things, but the way we showed in this video is what we recommend, what we've built our kits around, and what we will provide customer support for. Anything outside of that is up to your own due diligence and testing.
Thanks. The existing batteries are two 6v golf cart batteries that weigh a ton. I'm hoping to lose that weight. Would you recommend replacing them with a 12v LiFePO4 battery, or trying the two converters in parallel? Not asking you to support, just looking for an opinion. Thanks! @@EXPLORISTlife
So my question is how to determine the wire gauge for the various connections you have here. I see the primary DC connection from the Multiplus is 4/0, but many of the other wires look to be 1/0 or something else. Also, if we needed a “custom kit” made up, can you supply that? For example, a kit without the solar panels or batteries (already have both of those)? Thanks….
All of the wire sizes in our kits are pre-calculated, so you don't need to figure that out on your own. If you need to, though, youtube search "EXPLORIST.life Wire Size" and we've made a video that covers wire sizing. 90% of our kits come without batteries & solar panels so you can choose your own there, yes.
Another very good install video. I wonder why the need for the alternator charging, with 2400w of panels on the roof and the option to run a generator if needed? I have a new 5th wheel with about as much open real estate upstairs, and a plan will be to add real usable solar, so this video is great timing. Thanks to your team for this guide.
I share the same sentiment about alternator charging in this setup. I think you could for sure get away without it because of the massively oversized solar array. But I also know that the last time I asked our RU-vid audience to consider not installing alternator charging if they have adequate/excessive solar charging, I felt in danger of being burned at the stake. 🤣😂 Ultimately, being able to show up to the campsite with 100% battery after driving overnight (basically) was important to the owners of this camper and so we obliged.
Nice details through out. Both of you are so good at explaining things. I have a question about the pre-solar wiring. What is the size of the existing solar wiring from roof gland to pass through? Did you use 24volt panels then? I'm surprised factory was enough. My experience is that the factory roof solar (on my 2018 Arctic fox 25w)) is too small to handle as many watts as I want (1200w), and I don't want to do a pure series connected system....in a case like mine, Do you end up running A new drop through the front cap?
10Ga on those solar wires. Wired like we showed, that's only 20A coming through that wire; so 10ga is plenty for that. In fact, all of the solar configurations all the way up to 2800W use no larger than 10ga wire: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/?orderby=price-desc
I was wondering when you programmed the SCC for 100A but it's an 85A controller. It that because of the 24V system and that's what the battery limitations are? I was also wondering about the 150A circuit breaker for the 70A converter. It the converter programmable to charge that house battery? You placed that circuit breaker upsidedown and I have noticed that they often have a battery and a load side but since the flow is towards the battery instead of the usual configuration, which side did you use for battery? I'm assuming placing it upsidedown was deliberate.
re: 100A setting on the MPPT: Good catch! That would be 85A (the most it could do). I just copied those settings from a 100A charge controller and forgot to change it. Re: 150A breaker: Here is a video that talks about how to size fuses: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5y-yDMEgV70.htmlsi=cImNZJa6MZV33tR2 Re: Breaker orientation: Battery goes to the battery side because in the event of a short between the breaker and the converter; we need to be able to protect against the 1000+ amps of a direct short. That breaker isn't going to care which way power is going under 'normal' 70A circumstances.
🤣😂 I can't be bothered most of the time and forget that is a thing since it's not really a 'mission critical' feature. Here's a tutorial for anybody reading through the comments section for how to make the Lynx Distributor lights come on: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8h-E1lkYCKg.htmlsi=FZC90V5toX30XEo7
You said you were not gonna do the demonstration on the dual Victron inverters with all the goodies that go with the install from battery hook ups to the charger controllers and cerbo …well I feel you should. It’s a good watch with you guys to Do The complete installs, to chase the other videos I’m sure helps you guys with the views, but idiot proof is way better. All in 1 is better. Even taking the time to do the desk set ups as 1 video then to do the complete install as another video.. especially 50 amp set ups because that’s what this product is designed for and most want to watch from beginning to end. Maybe doing a programming of the system as a separate video is something helpful
EDIT: I just realized that this breaker probably has a line and load side which means it cannot backfeed.... The breaker is a one way breaker @33:33 Can you please clarify how the 150A breaker prevents backfeeding through the DC/DC step-down converter? Is this breaker supposed to be manually tripped when not needed? Shouldn't there be a diode between the 24 volt wire and the orian input or is this built into the orian converter?
Shutdown procedure for this system -> Turn off all loads: Turn off solar disconnect: Turn off Breaker to 12V battery bank: Turn off master disconnect switch. Startup: Reverse. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help on this procedure: shop.explorist.life/support If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
You guys do the best videos and have great tools and instruction on your site. I'm planning a 24 system and will likely buy the kits from you for most of the wiring. Question: did you put ferrules on the solar isolator wiring? It looked like you just stripped and connected. Any reason not to use ferrules?
There’s a million ways to do this stuff. We just share the way we feel is best and will work in the widest variety of cases, but feel free to play around with it as you like and we will sell you as many converters as your heart desires. 😜
What are the advantages of doing 24v 3000w vs dual 12v 3000w inverter/charger ? Seems a dual 12v system would double inverting power for a rig that size.
Two 3k multiplus's would indeed be twice as powerful, which is the upside, but is also nearly twice as expensive since you are buying two units and also need twice as much battery power (800Ah @ 12V / 400Ah @ 24v required)
Great job with this. Wish you were local. I would hire you for my home install. As for tightening cables, wouldn't it be easier (and better) to just use a "Stover" Nut instead of a lock washer?
I mean... a lock washer isn't 'hard' to put on, so anything 'easier' is splitting hairs. 🤣😂 As far as 'better'... I don't know. I'd imagine the additional pressure from the lock washer is better electrically; but again; probably splitting hairs. Maybe if this were on a spaceship it'd be a different conversation amongst engineers who like to argue that kind of stuff. Me? I'm just going to use the hardware Victron supplies instead of replacing manufacturer supplied things.
@@EXPLORISTlife - That's why I want to hire you. I cannot do it. I only have one finger on each hand (bird). 🖕(kidding lol : ) Seriously though, I didn't know Victron supplies small parts, but you make those kits with everything, and working in tight spaces it's one less washer to lose (especially when installing multiple washers in an overall larger system). Washers probably work slightly better though (especially in a moving vehicle).
Hi guys...love your channel...I watched how you connected the disconnect switch to the linx distributor using the linx adapter(copper bar). I want to connect my disconnect switch straight to the positive bus bar on my linx shunt but the bus bar has a M8 hole and my disconnect switch has M10 studs...can I use my drill and increase the hole size on the positive bus bar of the linx shunt from an M8 to M10 so I can connect my disconnect switch directly without the need for the copper bar adapter?? Or is this not recommended? Thanks...Paul
I can't vouch for modifying the hole as it would void the warranty and I've seen people mess that up and melt/damage their Lynx Distributor while drilling.
I could be wrong but when labeling the inverter so no one would cut it on is it me or did you cut off and label the ac breaker ? I thought you were cutting off the inverter?
Same comment. The converter breaker is second from the left side of the panel. The AC breaker (third from the left) is the one that was turned off in the video.
Hello, firstly great video and as always very informative. One question as it will relate to my future install. I see you mounted the Inverter charger horizontally and on its side (if that makes sense). I read this is not a suitable mounting way in my research as there are transformers which become suspended by the case. Have you had any issues doing this type of install. I will be using a Victron 48/3000/35. Thanks Simon
If an inverter requires a specific mounting orientation, it will be noted in the user manual. The multiplus 2x120V used does not make a specific mounting orientation recommendation in its user manual.
Hi Nate. Again an awesome and informative video You mentioned you left the factory battery in to run the other electrical systems like hydraulic jacks etc. Could the Victron system not provide the power Thanks again
is it possible to make a portable power bank inside a milwaukee packout and be connected back into a vehicle that has anderson connections with solar on the roof and cables to batteries
If you are using Battle Born batteries, you can have us program it for you and you wouldn't need the MK3-USB dongle. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle is a different device and is not for programming, but instead turning the multiplus on/off or setting the shore power input current limit. This was not installaed in this system since we were using the Cerbo + Touch Screen, which accomplishes the same thing.
Thank you, for giving me what I needed to know. I should have been more specific. I was considering the Victron Energy VE.Bus Smart Dongle (Bluetooth) part number NT-1066 because I am following the wiring diagram you sent me "EXPLORIST.life-50A-RV-RETROFIT-24V-Multiplus-2x120-3k-Solar-Alternator-ulghsm". I now understand the difference better between the diagram and this video, since unlike the diagram I will also be installing the Cerbo GX and the Touch screen as you did in this video. One last question about the video. Now that some time has passed, was the Orion 24/12-Volt 70 amp DC-DC Converter combined with the OEM battery sufficient to keep the camper's OEM battery charged and operate the camper's jacks and slides? In the video you made the the statement the Orion converter is "kind of the bottleneck in amperage in that it's only able to deliver 70 amps of power. And at the moment, we don't know what the amperage of the jacks and the slides in this camper are." I also intend to install an Orion 24/12 converter for the same purposes as the video, and in my case to charge two LiFePO4 Lithium 12V 100AH batteries, so I am wondering how the 70 amp converter worked out, or should I instead install the Victron Energy ORI241221226 Orion IP67 DC-DC Converter 24/12-100A? Thanks again! @@EXPLORISTlife
Just got a multiplus II feom you guys. My AC connector blocks only have 3 wires each, even though all the documentation shows 4? AC out 1 and 2 and a single AC in, as expected, but each connector block only has N, PE, and L terminals... Wtf do I have here?
Hey, @Randhawa164! I appreciate you taking the time to ask your question, but unfortunately, I don't have enough info about your specific question to provide an accurate answer, but here is a playlist that, if you watch all of the videos start-to-finish (and take notes 😉), you'll have a REALLY good idea of how to design a solar array: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jkbs84sBHsg.html&list=PLmvhcyi4n0TV9pi83rFTv3ZuMT_S1xIZt Alternatively, I have some of my most common solar array setups pre-built here: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
Shouldn’t you have mounted the Anderson connector in the truck bed facing down instead of up? That would keep rain out when the truck is used without the camper.
Can you tell me if i need to replace my converter as it is not lithium capadable. I have a solar charfe controllerr. Do i need to replace converter? What does converter actually do?
