Best channel ever. -no ridiculous introductions -no shameless plugs or advertisements -bunch of dudes doing the most ridiculous things we've all imagined but never had the resources to do
the crazy thing is that people REALLY let their brakes go (just go watch some of the "just rolled in" videos on youtube) and even when they're DANGEROUSLY worn out and damaged they still function for day-to-day driving. They're amazingly well-engineered.
I'd use the word "function" carefully lol Yes metal on metal does still have *some* braking force, if you get all 4 wheels doing this... let's just say Vlad would have a show to watch from the end of the anti seize test as metal-on-metal flies by and into the brush there...
ATF oil is made to work with clutch lamellars in the automatic gearbox so that's why it still gripped well. You'd probably see the same with motorcycle oil for wet clutches.
Just came to say this. I was surprised by the result at first, but then after considering that ATF is designed to work with clutch packs, it made sense
If he didnt take his foot off to gain control would probably stop the same as factory as the limiting factor would be the tyres on the road I wonder how this test would go with ABS ON and pre soak the pads like when rebuilding a trans ? This gives me an idea for the Park Brake/E Brake... if you know what the older Landcruisers are like this may be the solution ... maybe ...
Yes ATF is peculiar stuff. It has a tricky job to do... not the least of which is acting like both a lubricant and a gripping agent all at the same time, while carrying heat away and remaining chemically stable. Keeps itself clean under normal conditions too. Under-recognized engineering there.
Had a bike in my childhood whose front drum brake was squealing, so I put a bit of universal oil in there. That resulted in almost no braking effect until I cleaned all the surfaces. The rear coaster brake worked, so no accidents happened.
I once put wd40 on my rotors before leaving my car setting for and extended period of time. I wanted to see if it would prevent the rotors from rusting. Fortunately i was wise enough to test the impact on stopping and discovered it had an enormous impact. It burned off quickly enough that if you remember the rotors are oiled a couple low speed hard stops and its back to normal but damn, if you forgot. Anyhow, I determined the impact on stopping was far too dangerous.
@UberLummox it will not become embedded. It's made out of flammable Hydrocarbons and petroleum oil, the only thing inside the can that isnt flammable is the CO2 gas used as propellant. Wd40 will burn up long before the rotors and pads reach their normal operating temperature. If you had read my comment you'd know I've tried it and it doesn't have a lasting effect after it burns off. I suppose It could cause glazing but glazing is removed easily by performing a couple hard stops. Besides, new rotors come with grease on them to prevent rust. Most people do not thoroughly remove the grease. It burns off before the rotors and pads are broken in. The instructions tell you to perform a couple of 40-50 MPH hard stops to bed the pads to fresh rotors and this should get them much hotter than a typical drive. If petroleum based products ruined rotors or brake pads the manufacturers would not apply them to the rotors to prevent rust. The burning oils will just leave some carbon soot behind which is abrasive, ie it might actually increase the coefficient of friction once burnt off. I'm guessing they didn't try it because of the relatively high likelihood of starting a fire. Wd40 is extremely flammable.
@@nickmcwilliams685 Well then, I bow to your much greater knowledge. Might even try it on my own car, a '67 Jag 420 that sits a fair amount in a moist atmosphere. Thanks!
Funniest thing I ever saw was a kid in HS auto shop greasing his new clutch because one of the guys told him he was suppose to do that with a new clutch. We almost pissed ourselves when he tried it out the first time. LOL That was the smoothest sounding clutch we ever heard. whoooooosh Even the teach laughed before he chewed us out.
You get soft braking until the water flash theme zaroff the brakes from the heat caused by friction. With the car in motion, all you need to do is give your brakes a little push, release, and then you're good to actually use them.
I am thinking that because of the high force that the pads grip the discs with, there must also be a physical removal of the oil from the discs going on, the pads scooping it away.
It’s worth noting that extended contact with many different kinds of lubricants will mess with the binders in brake pads and shoes. I’ve seen several brake pads and shoes turn to slime as a result of extended contact with engine oil and gear oil.
If you could have used slotted rotors most of the fluids and grease you put on will hold to the rotor and get better results by not wiping it off on the run up
Ummm considering slots are there specifically to sweep the pads and fling the result outward to [hopefully] never be seen again... "I don't think so". If anything it will shorten all of the brake times 🤷♂️
I'm not even a little bit surprised that the antiseize reduced braking the most and by a lot more than the next worst. That stuff is magical when you want to prevent two metal surfaces sticking and awful when you try to keep it away from a surface. It spreads like Ebola! I wonder if they front brakes actually did anything at all when they tested them with antiseize...maybe the rear drum brakes did all the work?
Reminds me of my mate who wanted to lubricate his breaks to stop them squeeking. I told him to think about it first, but had to explicitly tell him that it's a bad idea.
Sorry if this already mentioned... What about engine oil friction-reducing additives such as Motor Honey, STP? What about silicone lube spray? or PTFE aka Teflon lube spray?
i wonder about the coating like cosmoline that some brake rotors have on them from the factory to keep them from rusting if you don't clean it off before using brakes does it make much difference on brand new rotors that have machining marks that have to be worn down anyway.
And this is why i dont worry too much about cleaning rotors to the degree that the really paranoid people seem to be. Yeah dont have a big film layer but a touch of grease here or there wont really hurt
hey hello, congratulations for your beautiful videos, but this time I have a question, isn't it that the increasingly worse braking results can be attributed to the soaking of the brake pads rather than to the difference in lubricant? did you finally try to repeat the first test to see if the result is the same?? let me know, byeee
What about graphite on rotors, or even powdered graphite in engine, i hope it will so slippery for rotor and i don't know how it will behave inside engine, may be dangerous
There is one more lubricant that is regularly used as an anti-seize "grease". I think the white one is based on ceramics, correct? There is also 1 that has the color of copper. I don't know if it is just very fine copper powder or if it is mixed with some kind of coating. But it is used around the braking system too, just like the ceramic/white spray. If you know what I am talking about, please try that one too, next time.
Gear and engine oil use a different method for rating the thickness so a 75w-90 gear oil has about the same viscosity/cst as the 10w-40 engine oil. That number on the bottle is actually better described as a protection rating than a thickness rating but it does give a good idea of relative thickness when looking at one engine oil to another or one gear oil to another but not a good comparison for the thickness of a gear oil vs an engine oil. 😁✌️
Were all brake discs "lubricated"? If not some of the braking comes from the rear wheels, albeit they don't have that much stopping power as the front brakes.
Glad that someone did this - obviously this is not something most of us are willing to test on our own cars so we just 'imagine' the results. It is interesting that the oil clearly does 'burn off' in time - the question is how long? Further options to try: Water (this gets more complicated if the road also gets wet) Grease and water What happens when the stop test is repeated over and over - does full stopping come back eventually? How many times does it take? I.e. I have seen many people say that spraying WD40 causes no long term harm - i.e. once the brakes have been fully heat cycled none of the WD40 remains and braking is fully restored or even slightly better due to any existing grease and water being removed (only testing can prove this). (Obviously takes some discipline to do the first heat cycle safely - which all drivers should do anyway) As a pilot we test the brakes as soon as we move the aircraft! In the video he said he cleaned up the brakes before the next oil was applied - he should have shown that full braking performance was restored after each clean-up, which may also expose any variability in his breaking technique. Ideally an inspection / measurement of the pads would show if any long term effects can be seen? Does brake cleaner really put the pads back 100% to normal - probably needs a long term test to be sure.
@@tikihutdweller5944 that’s the point. Pads do most of the work and wear the easiest. They are also absorbent to a point. The rotors always wipe clean to a shine.
Test the effects of intake size and shape. Just simple tube intakes - long runners, short runners, separating runners into pairs, funny shapes, log style runner, one massive plenum?
i'd like to see this tested on drum brakes with the same assortment (and with a slurry of mud, same as if you were four wheel driving and drove thru deep mud and lost brakes) and tested on clutch disk and flywheel. i think this would be very interesting to see what would happen/ed/s
Pentru un test mai precis, ar fi trebuit să folosiți rotoare noi pentru fiecare test. Cred că suprafața metalică a rotoarelor a fost impregnată cu ulei sub suprafață. Tare test!
The grease makes perfect sense about it makung brakes grab better. I redid the frontend on my truck then went and have an alignment done. The technician said my brakes were too sensitive . I told him I got grease on my rotors when I put it back together.
7:19 i Had expected this Outcome because Automatic Transmissions have cluches in this oil an they need to grip hard. The reason for the oil i think is Heat disapation for the cluch Pack. I know those Planetary Gear Set Automatic Transmissions are rough to the cluch so this might be a solution for longevety
ATF serves a whole myriad of purpose in a transmission. It is in large part a "hydraulic fluid" and as such is loosely based on the stuff normally found in heavy equipment hydraulics, with some extra goodies tossed in to make it a bit more special... It carries away heat, yes, but not just from the clutches and bands. Much of the heat produced comes from within the torque converter. The full force of the engine output flows through the ATF between 2 sets of moving vanes and a stationary set. The heat comes from hydrodynamic losses as the fluid is forced to change direction as it does its job. So yes, a coolant, but also the lubricant for everything within, including the differential in the case of a transaxle, with grippy tricks for the clutches/bands. It is also used hydraulically to engage and release said clutches/bands. It does all this while rather hot, so it must also remain stable and not break down, be able to "clean up behind itself" (detergent action) continuously, and without foaming. It doesn't take the same beating engine oil does but has a rather difficult job all the same. Contrast to a manual gear lube... it is 95% lubrication and 5% coolant. There's very little heat generated in a manual. (This is lost engine power in an automatic by the way, just another reason to drive a stick... I digress lol)
Don't brake pads get contaminated if you get grease or other lubricants on them? They don't mention if they also clean the pads off along with the rotors after every different lube.
You guys should do the opposite and put sticky stuff on the rotors and see how that affects braking. Like, honey and condensed milk. You had a lot of fun putting that stuff in an engine. Try it on the brakes! You could try all kinds of other stuff too like hand lotion, toothpaste, cooking oil, butter. The list is endless.
@@richiesrestorations4883 Yep, the DIY v12, after some time today i saw the thumbnail again and pretty high views. But making a DIY opposed engine would be a worlds first, i think and a pretty difficult one, opposing 2 engines is easy, but you still need to add fuel, air and an exit for the gasses. you need a mid block with valves and probably custom enlonged pistons but with the pistons rings on the same spot. since they have some experiences with casting.
Honestly, I was always told that anything (other than water) would soak into the space between the molecules of brake pad material IMMEDIATELY and brake performance would be TOTALLY RUINED. These brakes still functioned pretty well -- but the damage was probably already done. Throw these brake pads away! Observe cleanliness for good safety!
I can witness that if you spill brake fluid on those bicycle brake discs, the damn things will just squeal and have no braking force. You have to find a slope long enough, steep enough but not too steep, and burn the brakes through downhill. Then, they will stop squealing for the rest of the day, but the next day it's back. You can throw away the pads and the discs really.. hate them things.
I was remembering the standard bicycle brakes before disc brakes became popular, and thinking that not all technical advances actually make life better. The acronym, which used to hang in many engineering design offices, means 'Keep It Simple, Stupid!'@@andrelange9877
@@robwilde855 That's what I thought when I got my first disc brake on a bycicle and ruined it on a few weeks by spraying WD-40 onto some other part of the bycicle.
I had a old truck with only front breaks an the power steering line broke sprayed all over the fan an went on the breaks rotors an calipers an was a bit sketchy good thing trucks a manual just used the gears to slow down
ATF is a fluid with a certain defined amount of grip to it. The result didn't really surprise me. CVTs, that use chains running in oil, wouldn't really work without that feature.
The thing about oils on brakes is, you have to leave it on there for a few cycles so it creates a hard film ... Then you will have some serious grabbing brakes . lol Fun video though . lol
