Hi Guys if thats only a box section why don't you just drill the hole in the front face and not underneath it would be easier to weld up later or put a plate on Regards from Liverpool
A lot of purists would crap on your extensive use of laminated frames, but I recently spoke with a local shipwright whos restored numerous derelict vessels, and he wholeheartedly endorsed the practice. Not only is it stronger than solid timbers, but the epoxy adds rot resistance, and you dont have to be as particular about selecting perfect oak lumber in a day in age when it's becoming harder to find and more expensive than its ever been. It also often doesnt require steam bending.
I totally agree, after all ,sailing mast are now being glued together by using multiple pieces of wood and creating a super strong mast..Leo did it so be it…
@@Dave5843-d9m Tally Ho was built in the early 20th century when it was still common practice to build boats with multi part sawn timber frames. Leo opted to also use that construction technique on his rebuild instead of using steam bent or laminated frames which is why he had to find and restore an old beveling shipwright bandsaw.
handyman, wood worker and small craft sailboats, laminated wood is good. marine grade plywood is already laminated for you, but with glue that does not react to water (both water and seawater). West brand epoxy we used those... We do swear those are !@#$ Best stuff and dispensing pump accessories are accurate.
I have sent you a little donation for no other reason that I respect how hard you are working and what lovely people you are. I really admire your determination and the attention to detail, thank you so much for all the entertainment you give me. I’m in the final chapter of my life at 80 years old, and life isn’t very comfortable on occasions but watching you two is the best medicine that I get. Cheers, Peter.
As the saying goes you two, they don't make em like that anymore, and that's the boat and you two grafters who deserve all the rewards you can get, plus more for all the work and hours you have put in.
Omgoodness, my darlings, if I was still living in the UK I'd be there to help you! I can't understand why floods of helpers aren't there! All love and best wishes, Claire, Berlin 😘 ❤️ ♥️
Another great solution to potentially massive problem, your inventiveness knows no boundaries. The only suggestion for the exhaust fixings would be to replace the standard round washers with 50mm square repair plate/washers. It'll help spread the load inside the boat and in the exhaust. But again, you guys are awesome and i love watching the progress
A bit of mud larking going on around Sarinda this week.It must be hugely encouraging to see the condition of the exhaust, also, the steel is much thicker than I anticipated. Good to see you's both looking better.
Simon just an idea . To fix the exhaust hole fit a metal bar across the plate you have taken out thread a bolt through it ,weld the bolt to the bar . Then place inside the exhaust , attach plate to threaded bolt the tighten up with nut and washer from below . Exactly the same as you do with a hole in plasterboard . After the plate is in place seal the edges with liquid steel glue as that will seal it totally
Just had a further thought to stop the original plate pulling through you would need to weld steel washers to the outer edge of the steel plate .not pretty but as out of sight no problem
I hope you have taken out a Patent on the Mud 3000 otherwise everyone will be making one for just the same jobs. After all we all have to get in the mud under the exhaust of an old boat and drill a dirty great hole into it in the rain waiting for the tide to come in! Fantastic stuff guys! I look forward to each and every episode!
I have been watching for the better part of 2 years and love your enthusiasm and work ethic. I've lived in Maine all my life and worked for Hinkley for 35 years and I've never built a boat or seen one restored while in the water. In Maine we pull them into a dry dock.
Have you thought of removing the exhausts? They impede your access to a lot of the hull and the contact between steel and hull planking could result in rot that you can't see?
If you are going to need to drill additional holes in the exhaust, would it not be easier to cut a hole in the top of the exhaust? That way far easier to weld a plug back in and grind flat, rather than trying to weld upside down in the mud. Second the new plug will not be sitting in the bottom of the exhaust covered in salty water. Just a thought. Great work :)
To be honest, I would have gone through the top of the exhaust and made some neat bolt on covers to seal the holes. You could weld but bolt on covers give easier access in future.
@@erlixerlix7573 that is my preferred technique. drill with longest drill bit go through all way. other side enlarge for bolt head; 2 cm?. if you needed "more longer bolt". weld nut on threaded rod make head. Use socket head with long extension rod to hold head in place...
Well done on the drill jig. But even better for me was the very last fade out with the bow-on shot. It answers the design of the davit towers for the build of my R/C model Sarinda
Due to the weight of that exterior exhaust, and the old fastenings being a bit beefier. I would suggest putting another filler block over that web frame, and then add a steel plate that covers the doubler and the upper and lower frames, making it a lot stronger. I live in the ... "lets over-do it once so I never have to do it again" camp. Love the videos, Chin up you two. Carry on.
Hi simon and gemma on your chopsaw there are small vent with oak sawdust being gine it builds up in the vents so i used to clean the vents out every time i saw the chopsaw vents getting dust in them every few weeks when i used to work with oak at my job
For cleaning out the exhaust, if you have a pressure washer, you can get reverse nozzles that shoot high pressure water backwards, typically used for cleaning drains.
My thought on the exhaust would be to re-design the engine exhaust to go straight up as a smoke stack. . . . . just eliminate those side exhaust all together . . . . vintage boats like these need to be preserved indeed but they also need to be practical so they can last . . . for example, 2 famous WW2 mine sweeper that were re-purposed like Jacques Cousteau's "Calypso" or John Wayne's yacht the "Wild Goose" . . . . . the Wild Goose is doing very well these day although the Calypso has see it better days. . . . . . I think you have a treasure of history . . . Good Luke !!
Those exhausts aren't original anyway. As far as I can see from pictures the HDML exhausts originally just discharged through the side of the hull. However, as Harbour Defence Motor Launches they weren't designed for open sea work, so these side boxes are presumably intended to minimise the risk of the engine being swamped.
The thickness of the metal of the exhaust tunnels looks to be about 5mm. Why don't you try drilling and tapping from inside the hull. Using mastic and locking bolts to secure this trunking? You could then use unlimited numers of bolts at spacings to suit
A question for you two. I suppose you have to do the frame now. There is no way to do them once in a dry dock. Then you could lift the whole exhaust off, and you would need to drill holes in it. Also, where is the exhaust bolted on everywhere else. I can't remember you doing this anywhere else. Brilliant as always
Simon I got an idea how you can repair the hole in the exhaust,using the piece you cut out,take a bolt thread it though the hole you drill into the plate,then take a strong piece of flat piece of metal,feed it up into the hole and tighten down though the plate,and tighten with a bolt nut and washer,
Getting there guys well done!.. the saw needs new brushes!. it will get to the point it just stops.. sort sooner than later as sparks will eat away the copper of the commutator.. one question are you planning on keeping the exhausts or are you later planning to take them out of the stern?... a couple of heat exchangers would be good to heat water.. keep up the good work..
Wow. I did not expect the exhaust to be in that condition. Like the hull boards - amazing. I guess the paint on the outside of the exhaust and diesel oil from exhaust fumes on the inside have maintained it, despite the salt water. Your plan to add holes every few feet that will allow you to clean the exhaust out with a rodding kit is an excellent idea.
The MudDrill 3000(TM) is absolutely brilliant!! I fully expected those exhaust 'boxes' were just that, box-like pieces that surrounded the round exhaust pipes outside the boat. I guess going to those square-ish exhaust pipes makes more sense, as it saves weight.
Great job Team as always😅. Your ingenuity knows no bounds 3000 is ingenuity at it,s best great idea 😂. Maybe use chimney sweep brush as ya can just keep adding poles as ya need and super flexible. The is serious steel. 😮 maybe add a rubbing strip along the exhaust entire length at some point. Don,t forget to cover hole up as exposed to the air like that will increase corrosion. Keep at it now....😅😊😊😊😊😊
I love your channel and have been watching from the start. Have you ever thought about not replacing the rear lounge? Have an open deck with hatches to cabins for light. Cheaper and easier to replace the deck. Galley in the bow? Keep up the great work.
You could have with your metal lathe and an old microwave transformer made a mag drill. But then the world would be a sadder place without the mad cap, highly effective, quicker and cheaper to make Mud Drill 3000. That was by far the best bit of this episode. TY.
Hi simon and gemma i noticed that you use a medium hammer to knock the wood into place behined the stringers why not use a lump hammer and bit of wood on the ends it should be bit heavier so the wood wood would go into place a little quicker
you could do with some boards like those small bridges you made to put on the mud when you work on it, spread the point loading. you could bung some floats on them, lash to the boat some you dont have to lift them everytime too
That drill gizmo is the Goats Toe. Patent it quick. Those hole saws can be a pan in the butt even on a drill press where you can see what you are doing. You can put a spring over the pilot drill to help eject the piece you cut out, or a piece of dense foam some times works. We used to use Rocol spray cutting compound on plate steel back in my younger days. About 5 years ago now.😄 Cools the drill and helps reduce the wear more than spray oil.
Hi Simon and Gemma, more nice work as usual.I can see the exhaust diameter is quite large, so I'm not sure this would be viable, but , would it be possible to totally remove the steel exhaust and perhaps running the exhaust through the interior of the boat with rubber exhaust hose and out through the transom.
Nice job. Drillin the exhaust went easier than I expected. I remember 'Robbo painted it, not sure when, but it still looked pretty good Nice goin m8s, doin well. Stay vertical Eh!
Hi you two and what a surprise you found when looking inside the exhaust can, to be honest I was hoping it would be terrible and you had to remove them. I do think they spoil the lines of the boat, originally the exhaust would just come out of the side or be piped to the stern though the bilge area. The marine exhaust manifold would mix cooling water with the exhaust gas and the piping could be flexible and was never any problem on my 1930s boat. Maybe something you will do in the future when you have more time and money. Thanks for posting and I'm happy the metal box is A OK for you to continue.
When I saw the inside of the exhaust ducting I was worried about the flaking and thickness of the steel. That was until you showed the cutout at the end. You must have at least an 1/8th” of good steel there which shows how well she was originally laid up. Get a chimney sweep brush, clean the crap out and Sarinda’s exhaust fumes should keep the verdigris at bay. You’re getting there, stick to it and I can’t wait to see her slip her lines.❤️
