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@JDM BEATS You can pull the neutral safety switch in pre-computer cars and the starter will move the whole car until the battery dies. It can be very useful for emergencies when you need to move the car but it wont run. I can usually move my 75 Plymouth Valiant about ten car lengths or so before it drains a battery.
@@Impactjunky Neutral what now?? You must be American. Since manual vehicles pre computers did not really even have anything to stop you from turning the started AT ANY POINT outside of wheel lock? Maybe there was a pre computer car with a clutch being required to be pressed down but there are plenty of computer cars that you still can turn key and have the hole vehicle LUNCH forward. Or back into something. Most up to date cars even manuals ones have safety crap built in to stop starter driving. But it really is just the last 5 years or so that you can not start the engine without having the clutch down. I know auto boxes have all kinds of things to stop you but... They are trash. Ow and do not use the starter to drive. The battery is being killed doing it and the starter motor and fly wheel is defensively not happy. It is pulling the engine AND car at the same time. Even in neutral the starter is only for emergencies and starting the vehicle. The car battery is made for a extreme but short discharge. And the starter is made for a extreme but short turn over. And the flywheel and mesh to the starter is not designed to pull the vehicle since the stress and uneven pull ruins the mesh teethes quite heavily. Driving on the starter is really uneven and mechanically painful experience. When you can not pull the vehicle by hand. When your 3 people trying to push a car stuck then yea the starter is easier then getting a second vehicle just to get out of a problem. Might even be safer. But other then that it is only for emergencies like stuck on a rail track with a dead engine.
All very valid points. And, yes I've had to use the starter to "push" my jeep a few times. I use to own an '84 Toyota FJ60, and I've had it bog down, and die in the snow, I used the starter to literally roll it through the mud and onto the street! I wouldn't have been able to push it myself, plus I was out in the middle of nowhere.
@@TheDiner50 Yeah I must be American. And you must be totally new to cars. If you wanted to tell us all you know nothing about mechanics then you could have just said that in one quick sentence. It didn't require this entire massive rant directed at me. Most classic cars don't even have a wheel/column lock. They weren't mandated equipment until 1970. It's funny how you make the same mistake as every other teenage car guy by trying to trash talk automatics when that just makes you look less educated. The automatic transmission in my 68 Plymouth Roadrunner is so light that I can pick it up and carry it around the shop myself even with fluid and converter installed. You can't do that with big heavy modern 6 speeds that can weigh twice as much, up to and over 200 pounds. It also puts more horsepower to the rear wheels than a big heavy modern 6 speed because it takes less wasted horsepower power to turn all that weight. It also shifts much less often in a 0-60 or quarter or eighth mile acceleration scenario wasting less precious acceleration time shifting gears. It also shifts gears in less than 0.16 seconds leaving black marks on the road between shifts every single time without ever missing a gear. It also pushes my 50 year old antique car to basically whatever top speed I want based on my currently selected final drive ratio/tire combo. I most often run a 3.55 final drive ratio with a roughly 135 MPH/217 KMH top speed with my current rear tire size, giving me loads more low end acceleration and torque at the cost of top speed. Any time I want I can install taller rear tires or taller gears for more top speed. With the current gearing and taller tires max speed would be about 160MPH/ 257 KMH. Swapping back to my stock taller 2.76 gear and current tires would put top speed around 175 MPH/281 KMH at the cost of some acceleration. Swapping to a 4 inch taller rear tire would stretch that gearing out to exactly 200 MPH/321 KMH. And that's with only 3 gears. My third gear is the same ratio as fourth in most six speeds. Oh and launch is spelled with an A. Not lunch. And by the way thanks for repeating exactly the same thing I said about moving with the starter in an emergency. That was totally necessary.
Yeah my dad made us a billy cart with a starter motor in the 90s, it wasnt the fastest thing on earth but it had torque.... i remember carrying car batteries at like 8 years old lol.
U could say that but probably will never end up in the movie as to say a WASTELAND car is the proper name as the 100+ Wasteland movies & wasteland weekend have 90% have nothing in common with Mad Max because they tell there stories. P.S there's about 60+ wasteland movies here on RU-vid that I found
You guys, have to do a mechanical start-stop system with this flywheel, using some type of clutch engaging from the cab. It would be interesting to see how you would work it out.
Love it ! I used to start my old car by simply firing the ignition a few degrees ATDC. No starter or pushstarting needed. It takes a complete understanding of all engine cycles, past present and future.
This is awesome! The old cars that started with hand crank would have wanted this invention. You should use a coaster brake from a bicycle and put it between the inertial and the shaft so if the car doesn't start, then the inertial will coast instead of stopping suddenly. I thought at first you used a coaster gear with the crank handle so if the car started you wouldn't get your arm ripped off. But I see you must take your hand away when the pulley is engaged.
I really love how these mechanics answer questions I never had but are really fun to find out anyway with their experimentation. Steel nail wheels, super speed wipers, carburettors. And now "What if my car could be crank started?" Would never worry about a dead battery again.
Over 50 years I have played with many different size machines (mostly mowers - but chippers and other stuff) where the driven load could be run to maximum speed, the drive from the engine disengaged (if these was a PTO brake it had to be disconnected) - and the engine switched off. The fun was to switch the engine ignition back on and re-engage the load RESTARTING THE ENGINE WITH THE STILL-MOVING LOAD and not having to use the starting rope or electric starter. I once had a carbureted V8 Chevy pickup that had the original generator (not alternator) I traded some welding for an old obsolete distributor-type magneto that fit the 283. Since where I live is very hilly I NEVER HAD TO BUY BATTERIES OR STARTERS. The generator was low output but it worked fine with no battery at all. You know those metal ramps people use to change oil? I kept a pair of them in the pickup bed. If I had to shut the truck off on level ground I would run the front wheels up almost to the top of the ramps - then set both the driveshaft and rear drum parking brakes - then finally shut the engine off and let the clutch out in 1st gear. Came time to leave it was: Put it in reverse, switch key on, kick off both parking brakes let it roll like two feet backwards, let out the clutch and it started every time...
If you want bigger inertia you should make large mass of metal, such as metal or lead ring as far from axis as possible. Sand won't cut it as good as metal ring. Maybe as an idea for second attempt.
That may take a little bit more than a few ladas and a machineshop to do. Now if they had a way of getting over to ukraine and getting one from something like a crashed SU-25 then by all means they should do it.
That's too easy, and uninterested, these guys have way more creativity. Jet cars have been done before, but I'm sure these guys would take it further lol
There used to be gyro buses using a big flywheel to generate electricity. Which would power drive motors. Once the bus got to a stop the fly wheel would be re-spun by a motor. Maybe try something similar, a battery free electric car. Maybe even do away with the electrical side and use torque converter to run the wheels.
Grandfather had a hand crank tractor when I was a kid many years ago. I used that tractor almost every day during the summer and fall. Be careful or the English words of the day will be "Ford Fracture". I have came close myself a few times. Handle will become stuck and come around and break the two bones in your forearm. Have handle removed before engaging lever. Great starter idea. Old solutions to new problems.
I like this idea, only don't use sand or concrete. Fill the inertia wheel with lead so it won't shed velocity as quickly when engaged. Also to make it easier to turn, a small gear reduction perhaps a two or three to one for the drive with a slip joint direct the engine much like a pull start engagement off a lawn mower it string trimmer. Get the inertia wheel spinning fast enough it starts to ring then engage it to the engine. Stand back Incase of shrapnel.
Reminds me of those Chinese Toy cars which had an intertia motor which you had to drag it on floor and it'd start moving on it's own. Reminds me of that toy lexus lx470 I had. Nostalgia.
I'd like to see a clock spring starter like my old mower used to have, man that thing put some energy down fast. Little wonder they got outlawed back in the day.
Those type of wind up spring powdered starters are common on marine diesels especially those used in emergency service like lifeboats and backup generators. Buhk diesels are famous for them.
fantastic! i had an old sailboat with a crank start. almost impossible. i was thinking about hooking up a bicycle pedal system. sold the boat and bought an old harley...
8:41 NEVER pour water into a hot engine that is not running. It will crack or warp the engine block and possibly cylinder heads too depending on what material they are made of. Wait for it to cool first or keep the engine running so it won't cool rapidly.
I'm starting to think Vlad is just my uncle from another country more and more, pulling up to someone's house to deliver something or help with something. But showing up early or something/anything, so he's got a legitimate excuse for bumming coffee. Since he's finished his cup by that point
Do you really think these guys are "classically trained"? None of the stuff they are doing would be taught in a class. Except maybe welding. If you want to learn this stuff, just go out and start doing stuff. You'll eventually figure out what works and what doesn't, and what tools you need and which ones you don't.
@@mediocreman2 All these concepts are taught. You learn to calculate inertia, so you know the exact energy it would change from X rpm to Y rpm (knowing you want 900 rpm to start, how fast do you need to spin it if it normally takes a starter Z number of watt*seconds to start the car?). You would also know the exact torque seen on that shaft and the shear force on the welds. ALL of that is taught in class, its how they are applying it (which is not really that novel, its been done in this case before) that part is just creatively using what they know.
My dad brought a lada Riva second hand he was desperate ( we are in UK ) a A reg 1984 looked like the white on in the corner with the round head lights and crime bumper and that had a starting hande and he tried it once for fun. . when he got made redundant and got a reasonable pay out he got a job 50 mile's away so he brought one new G reg 1990 the one with the square headlights
I think they already build what they're after: A bicycle has a range of gears and a gear change system. It could be pedal or hand crank, as long as it has a low enough gear to get it started, and a couple of higher ratios to really get it up to speed.
Nice. Maybe it would be possible to build a working start/stop function with a big extra flywheel instead of using electric starter and battery for that.
making it heavier definitely works, but higher speed (using a gear or similar) gives you much more energy. flywheels are used for emergency power because they can provide peak power instantaneously. They use carbon-fiber flywheels in a vacuum spinning at 500,000 RPM. Tons of energy due to the high speed.
Think the handle should be near the center of the flyweel or pulley to have more rpm with small arm movement. Also think that there is no need to a separate handle but only a piece of pipe that can turn on the rod
What about a big gyroscope spinning with a strong motor to rotate it so once it spun up it can be quickly rotateed causing the car, even if stationary, to pop up on it's left or right wheels. That would be fun. Put some round roll bars on top so the car can be rotated a full 360 degrees. Maybe that would help with parallel parking. Stop by a spot then the car rolls over 360 degrees ending up in the parking spot hopefully.
In version 2, maybe you could stick a gear box with clutch on the front of the engine and spin the disk up to speed before turning the engine off, then you could use the clutch to crank the engine with the disk
What about an air pump like a bicycle pump. Pump pressure into a container and have a valve so intake manifold either is connected to pressurized container or carburetor/fuel injector thing. Pressure pushing pistons down with intake valves open gets engine spinning then switch back to carburetor/fuel injector. They really should of set the system up so several hamsters spinning their wheel get the flywheel going and that starts the motor.
This would be great in the winter if the battery is half dead. You just use the starter motor to slowly spin up the flywheel, and once it reaches enough speed, you engage it and start the engine
Thicker shafting and a wheel weighted towards the edge would be much more effective. The idea is perfectly sound but the execution too weak and insufficiently thought out. For example they could cut off the end of a scrap crankshaft to harvest one journal and the flywheel mounting flange. Bore that stub shaft for some heavier round bar (can be turned from a truck axle etc, no need to buy premade shafting but any local machine shop may have suitable leftovers) mounted in suitable pillar blocks (flanged style mounted to plate or flat bar brackets would be my choice as the path of least work). A manual transmission style flywheel off something large (big truck diesel engine etc) is already balanced and heavy. It would be inconvenient to stack more than one but two might be doable. Instead of a hand crank (hand starters are a terrible idea and always were because human legs are far stronger) a Maytag gas engine style kick starter engaging a flywheel ring gear would apply MUCH more force and permit a long kicker lever making backfire a non-issue. The cool thing about such problems is some bright mechanic somewhere has already solved the problem elegantly. The trick is finding their solution and RU-vid videos make visualizing concepts easy. I hope they keep at it. It would make a great emergency starter for generator and water pump engines.
Literally the way my Grandfather had to start his self built tractor. It was based on Andoria S320 engine and had a wrench welded to valve shutoff (forgot proper word for it). So you had to get it going and then slap the wrench down.
