In this video I replace the Weber DGAV 32-35 with DGAS 38, and then adjust the 38 with an AFR gauge. At the end , I made my conclusion/// the DGAS is better and more pick-up... In this case mounted on a Vandiemen RF-85 with Pinto 2L...
I love all Your videos! Honestly i newer liked the trend of people hawing half a milion different channels, it is better in my opinion to hawe one, so one can keep the genuine interest in what one are doing in the videos, regardless of the topic. After all this is how the life on an old farm looks! I love You car videos as well and i learnt a lot from them!
Nice work. I really enjoy watching any automotive video you produce, especially racing content. I had a negative experience with AEM's wideband recently and wanted to warn you. In the kit, they supplied a fake bosch wideband. My afr's were full lean and i couldn't get it in the adjustment range with the mixture screws. After checking plugs, they were covered in black soot. I compared the supplied sensor to the bosch unit and realized that they are quite different. The supplier sent a replacement right away and i was able to get it dialed in. Thanks for your videos. I referenced them heavily during my rabbit carb conversion project.
Thanks jordrider, that is good info... I have checked the sensor and it seems to be genuine.... how did you identify that it was a fake one and not a Bosch ? Part number check ? I have seen it when the heather failed in a sensor , but not on this one... The good thing is , I can always try another... of course its always good to check the plugs..
@@D3Sshooter The bosch sensor has a nice color gradient from the threaded portion to the harness. It is also laser engraved with a bosch logo and part number. The harness has a sleeve that fully encloses the wires at the sensor side. The fake unit has none of these features. The only similarity is the connector.
Dear I have a problem in long right-hand turns The car loses power halfway through the turn Could it be that the float level is too low They are two 50 DCO SP No 19650.001/002 They are mounted on the right (i.e. inside bend) The float level is now 12 mm With kind regards
Hi, well that can be for many reasons... typical that is a sign of running out of mixture richness. I have seen it before , one goes full throttle on the straights and then gets in left or right hander, tries to accelerate after braking of course and the car hesitates or loses power. Reason not enough fuel in the floatchamber... it has been drained a lot on the straight, then the corner is hit and what is left in the fuelchamber shift out and causes a lean mixture. The main reason is a fuel pressure that is to low ( must be at all times 4 PSI ) and not enough volume ( must be about 4 Liters per minute).. All this is most of the time cause by a poor performing fuel pomp. That would be my first check...
I actually bought a brand new 38 DGAS from Weber's distributor here in Australia and to my pleasant surprise, it actually came with an anti-stall pump even though in a previous video you said they wouldn't because the Spanish versions don't have it. Just thought it was interesting.
In the UK the DGAS 38 was used only on the 3.0 essex v6 in Capri & Granada. Both butterflys opened the same time .One for each side of the v6. We had 32/36 DGAV on 1.6 & 2.0 Pinto 4cylinders in UK.
AFR gauge or logger is a massive step up for older cars. I use it with my k jetronic car, and soon i need to weld a bung to my F vee to be able to do some AFR logging there aswell.
Are you sure about that carburetor size? I think it's 32/36. And do the Formula Ford rules allow the use of a Weber DGAS carburettor? The Australian Rulebook states: Type: Weber 32/36 DGV or DGAV (from 1600 GT Kent or 2000 NE engine) I think that's why that Frankenstein carburettor was built.
Hi Mika, yes you are right its a 32/36 (my error in talking). As you stated much depends on the appendix with the tech rules.. If that is stated as 32.36 DGAV then yes the mod does make sense... a smart cheat... Here in the historical FF we drive Kent and Pinto and have not that limitation.
on my 87 CRX (1.5L 4 cylinder) I have a DGES 38 on it. one issue i've been running into is when going from throttle to closed throttle it'll go way rich then eventually settle. I'm suspecting it's that my idles are too large and the mains too small. current setup is: idles: 60 mains: 150 AIr Correctors: 175 e-tubes: f66 Thoughts on it? my aim is for it to not go so lean right away when going from open throttle to closed throttle. when cruising it'll sit around 14-15 a/f and go lean like it should on closed throttle until it reaches idle speed
I would think that converting to DGAS would give a sharper response at low throttle openings due to the increased flow through the double smaller Venturi as opposed to one large Venturi at low speed.
I recently harassed the makers of the Smiths gauges to make an afr or lambda gauge. They said they were having a tough time making one, but it was because they were using a narrowband sensor. I responded with some extra info and they never responded back. Trying to keep the classic look.
Good point, why would anyone use a narrowband sensor, that does not make sense... so yes, you are right for 100% making that comment to them... I assume they will not make one, as on modern cars one can read the AFR out of the ECU even while driving... So maybe they could make a GIU
I'm also running a Weber DGAS and installed a wideband sensor with gauge last week. Very helpful tool, did a bit of driving and found out it's running a little lean at high rpm. It's running 13,5 while cruising and about 13,8 at 6000 rpm. What should I change?
I use af meters. Usually on Holley 4150, 4160 carbs. I use a timing light aimed down the venturis and find the rpm just below where the primary boosters start to flow. I then look for 14.7 af. This is 1700 rpm on a v8. Changing the idle feed restrictions. On weber idle jets. Then i take the rpms to 3800 to 4000. Hold the throttle steady. 14.7 again. Change the primary main jets to get there. Once changes are made. Slowly ramp from idle to 1700 looking at af you can do the idle air bleeds to correct the idle fuel curve. With the engine slowly between 2500 and 4000 rpms. High speed air bleed changes. If that does not fix it. Emulsion tubes changes. On holleys. Much harder than webers. This is only a slight variation from this great video . With progressive carbs. Get the idle then primary tuning done. Then roadtest it close to wot but not getting below power valve opening vacuum to change the secondary mains. I am not set up to make a video. Once idle and primary main jets . I crack the throttle fast from 1200 rpm to see if it lean backfires. Increasing the pump discharge nozzle sizing till it does not. I learned this the hard way with 4 decades of working on cars and trucks and just as long with my fingers inside carbs. Altitude effects air fuel ratio i live at 400 feet above sea level. Thanks for doing a great video. On the many dozens of holleys, edelbrock and weber carbs i have tuned. OMG is the usuall response by the car owner after a test drive.
its to have max eficency burbleing down the hiway. have a small carb when just driving and a big one when you step on it. american cars even when to the point where the other butterflys were completely disconnected from the throttle and were actuated by vacuum to sense what the engine wanted. and the last gasps of carbs on flagship motorcycles in the 90s-00s was constant velocity carbs where the entire throttle slide is vacuum actuated and you just control a butterfly in front of it.
On bikes we had indeed the variable yokes, and yes for normal driving I see the DGAV as an efficient method. Yet on a race car that is another story...as you could see the DGAV was modified to act as a DGAS.. The reason was " In competition, race cars of type formule ford are bound to regulations ( technical) and that states DGAV....smart guys converted the DGAV to a DGAS function while keeping the DGAV and meeting the spec's
The O2 sensor not being snugged down worried me. Small exhaust leaks will affect the AFR making it appear to be running lean. (Unless it was just hand tight for the video) The two different barrel sizes, with the barrel positioning on the manifold, could give you different AFRs depending on the cylinder (inner cylinders vs outer cylinders). But the smaller choke is just meant for throttle response around town and fuel economy if run as a progressive carb. Not very useful on a race car where the throttle is mostly wide open. The DGAS should be similar to a single 38 DCOE but with a 90 degree bend in the manifold. I suppose it all comes down to what the formula allows.
Thanks for the comments, indeed one must make sure that the sensor is deep enough at the right distance and should have no airleaks ...else its a false reading. ( I did lock it in place with a wrench...and seal... did not show that ...maybe I should have). yes indeed the DGAS is simular in build/principle...except the powerpomp..
Why would that be ? Leaner AFR indication during acceleration ....? that is indeed what the AFR states... however it went to 12 shortly ... and yes that might be needed... that is why i will take it to the track for the final adjustements. On a none riding car, stationary it is only possible to tune the idle and a bit the progression... the main and acceleration is only tested on the track as I need the engine to be loaded
@@D3Sshooter completely agree, there are things you only find out under load. I don't know all the intimate details about your car, but do you run a programmable ignition? I have a DGV5 on my Saab Sonett and it used to stumble a bit when accelerating at low rpm, especially from standstill. I converted to Megajolt and programmed extra advance at higher loads in the lower rev range which cured the stumbling. When you open the throttle from idle you can see that load goes to almost 100% before the revs go up. Later I once saw a map on a tuning site somewhere where the same was done so I reckon it is a trick more widely used.
