@@D3Sshooter your video suck , you put too much effort into logging and data and you complete forgot where you wire it to and what color wire is the 12v signal with key on …. Your explanation suck …..
Thanks for posting this video. Its very informative and Helpful. Now I'm headed to the garage to install one on my 74 TR6 with Weber DCOEs. Cheers from the Corvette City!
Hello! By far the best video on YT I have found showing AFR gauge install, carb adjustments, lean, rich etc. Thank you for sharing sir. Cheers from Motown.
Inspiring subject and so well presented by someone who knows and can explain it too! Very valuable combination! I have a twin-carb set-up, on a Triumph TR3a imported from Canada to UK. It has a pair of different SU carbs than were originally fitted. Burlen say they are OK as they are AUC86*. (From a Morgan +4. apparently). Looking forward to getting to grips with the AFR set-up soon!
Thanks very much for a very well presented and informative lesson, which is so timely for me as I have just fitted an Edelbrock Carb to my reconditioned Rover V8 from RPI Engineering to my Replica Pilgrim Cobra. Just when I thought there was nothing left I could do I now have a great little job on my hands, thanks
you just taught me how to use my afr at idle and then drive and see what adjustments to make and the key i learned is i must have a warm engine before i do any adjustments thank you very much im trying to get ready for smog on 1989 mazda b2200 pu obd1
Thanks! I have been waiting for this video ever since your teaser! I have an AFR gauge and sensor that should arrive this week. This video is very helpful. Going to use on both my MGB and Clubman Estate.
Thanks for the comments, sorry for the late video... good luck... PS don't drive leaded fuel as that will destroy the sensor, and be carefull with lead replacements...
D3Sshooter , both cylinder heads have hardened seats so I am all set. Tight fit for the sensor under the mini. I need to be strategic with placement so it does not rub on the underside.
by Far the best Video on RU-vid thank you very much. the you very very much for your video's I subbed to your channel, you definitely deserve more subs then what you have
Really interesting explanation which I learned something today:). Many years ago I did fit this same AEM AFR to my long gone Twin Turbo Supra (along with many modifications) and found it to be very accurate and reliable, so another recommendation from me for this specific brand. I see the ‘scope out again :)...now if only you can squeeze in a segment with it on an “old Rusty” video lol
Curiosity is the first step to understanding....what went horribly wrong. Just a thought from the days of retrofitting FI. Very kind of you to share your knowledge.
I have loaded a look up table for a NB in my tuning software that gives me the AFR, and comparing it to my WB, the values are pretty close even up to 12.5:1. It can definitely help. The oscillations I get at idle or closed loop, if you look at the voltage the amplitudes look pretty high, however, when converted to AFR I actually see variations only between 13.5 and 15.5:1, idling around 14.7, most of the time between 14-14:8. The same thing I see on the wide band. The NB plot in my datalogs follows the WB AFR closely within 0.2:1 even at WOT where the AFR is 12.5 during PE. The NB is also slighy faster, possibly because of shorter cable.
The bit you weld on is called a boss here in the uk, and the blanking plug you screw in is called the bung - because it bungs up the hole, bit like stopfung!
D3Sshooter ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7G39McZjWxc.html I had a lot of fun understanding the Fuel Injection system, and finding that it works very well.
I consider my air fuel ratio gauge and my vacuum gauge to be very helpful and informative great for tuning (Haltech controlled fuel injection) I have a Ford V8 swapped 1984 Datsun 200SX S12 always consider both Vacuum and AFR gauges!!!
A little bit off-tipic (on AFR) but on gauges too: I hold a privat pilot licence and on those reciproking small aircraft engines a very useful gauge is standard: the exhaust gas temperature gauge (for each cylinder). It is so useful because it is always the very first indication that engine problems are aboute to rise. And if the fuel-air mixture is set correctly. And another gauge I would like to have is a voltmeter for the battery charging voltage. Last year the voltage regulator of my classic car distributor quit and of course I couldn't have known it. Due to 16 V charging voltage the battery was overheating on the drive, the battery housing failed and the whole engine bay was full of battery acid. Even an overvoltage warning light would have done the trick.
I looked at these to help tune my engine on the car you have confirmed my thoughts so thank you! The little lug that you welded on we call it a boss in the U.K. not that it matters 🙂 fantastic video liked! And subscribed. Steve.
@@emmajacobs5575 I had a feeling that other country's would have different names for it, but I agree with you that a "bung" is to plug up a hole as you said its interesting though how language differs from country to country. Cheers.
Superb explanation thanks. i have an AEM AFR gauge on my mini and I've been longing to know how to log and fine-tune the HIF44; I'm off to watch the next video
There appear to be different model aem guages. I have a hif44 as well. What model Guage and sensor did you get? Did the sensor and Guage come with all the wiring you needed?
Thanks for the comments, indeed the stoich value is all about the most efficient mixture. However that does not mean that the engine is running or performing at its best...
Awsome I am converting my mk6 transit to ve pump also some hho at about 5Amps so would possibly give me view of what's going on as won't be using the ecu...Great vid
Great video! I just installed my wideband to tune my Weber 38 DGAS installed on my 2.3L 61' Willys Jeep CJ5, according to the AFR, I needed to go leaner on the idle jets, moved to 45, 1 turn out on both mixture screws, now within range. Still rich when I accelerate, running base/ stock 145 main jets. Base/stock air correction jets are 170's. Redline Weber the sole US importer told me the 38 as shipped should be close, but I've found and smelled it to be rich out of the box for my application. I do have a mild cam, 2" exhaust hence the upgrade to the 38 vs 32/36. Not much information out there for regarding these early Jeeps with similar modifications and tuning the 38. I am unclear at what point the air correctors come into play? I assume the main jets not until close to WOT?
you are a great Teacher. Thanks for the video. so, i just wanna ask, is AFR Gauge necessary or useful for the old diesel engine (not commonrail and doesnt have ECU)?
looking forward to seeing you tune with this gauge, will you do the same on Old Sporty with the twin webers? i enjoy all your videos, you have taught many of us i'm sure.. even on things we'd never thought of learning about.
Having seen your video I am just wondering if the AFR you built does about the same trick as the exhaust gas temperature gauges I mentioned. Their functioning is of course different. The AFR you are showing uses an oxygen sensor and the exhaust gas temperatur gauges use temperature sensors (installed after the exhaust valves).
As always, huge fan of your videos. Question: how will you adjust the carburetor for more fuel during acceleration? Changing injectors? And imagining cruise ratio is lean or rich: how do you adjust that? Thanks in advance
There are two elements that you can play with , the piston spring (SU carbs), the damper oil viscosity and the needle profile. Check the video's on the SU for details. The main point is that acceleration creates more vacuum, and as such the damper moves upwards , lifting the needle to another station ( position). Hence more fuel can be taken out of the jet... however if the piston lifts up to fast we will lose airspeed and hence the venturi effect reduces. Thus less fuel in the mixture despite the fact that jet /needle is having a larger opening. Therefore the lift of the damper needs to be checked during acceleration, if that goes to fast then more dense oil is needed in the demper. If it goes Wide Open, then the pistion spring is to weak...
Great Video Shooter... I have a MK2 3.4 Jag with Twin SU carbs. Ive seen your SU instruction videos but wondering if you will be doing one for Twin SU Tuning? GN
Another great video - but one question - on my Weber 40 IDF turning clockwise is leaning the mixture, turning anticlockwise is making it richer. I guess other carbs have it different. Check your spark plugs for the condition.
Great as always! I’m going to install on my 1973 Volvo P1800es with 38/38 dges clone carb thanks again😎 If it gets lean under acceleration, so I need a larger main jet or a smaller air correction jet?
Thank you, under acceleration its the acceleration pump that shoots in more fuel, so that would need to be the part to adjust. for cruising and normal driving or nearing the end of an acceleration the main jet and air correction jet define the mixture. Hence, you can increase the main jet .
Still curious how to adjust your carb since when you accelerate its becomes leaner. Is that mean you have to increase the main jet or any specific trick or something? If I assume you have increase the main jet, how about the effect to your idle condition -> will it become richer?
I have been doing very similar work on an E-Type 4.2 Jag with triple SU carbs. I am using INOVATE Motorsports hardware with their Logworks 3 software which enables use of my Laptop to capture data. On the Jag it is a little more complex because of the dual, entirely separate exhausts, one for the front 3 cylinders and one for the back 3 but, fed by 3 carbs so that makes adjustment a bit more involved. I presume by your description you are using a non SU carb, perhaps a Weber. In my case I get the same momentary lean mixture on acceleration,l even as lean as 17/1 but car runs perfectly. With the SU perhaps changine daspot oil viscosity might cause a positive change but not particularly worried about this. At idle I am close to 13/1 a bit rich but any leaner and the car does not idle well and using the tried and true lifting of the SU piston I get no engine accleration whatsoever, jusr a decrease in RPM; sign of a lean idle setting. Your explanation was great but think that for best performance a bit rich is better, as you may have suggested. Looking forward to your next video, might you make some particular reference pertaining to SU carbs. Same basics just a little different in the details. Thanks
Thanks for the comments Tom, a lot of good points... Mine is SU and a lot simpler then your car.... One point I should have stated is that the Stoich 14,7:1 is the most efficient burn mixture ... however that does not mean that it delivers the best power or the best engine running ( as you stated, running a bit rich, is better then to lean (temp))...
When you say "above" and "below" Stoich, it's very confusing as numbers go higher it's below Stoich in that it's a higher number (more air:fuel) and as the numbers go lower it's above Stoich (more fuel:air).
Can I ask, if I purchased the AEM AFR Gauge will this still give a fairly accurate reading in the tail pipe like in your example with the oscilloscope instead of installing a boss before the mid section. I assume I will need to wire up the sensor heater to run continuously. Thanks for your help. Steve.
Thanks for the comments, well he sensor only works properly when its hot. That heath is coming from the exhaust gasses when the engine runs. For cold start the sensor warms up by itself. The tailpipe is a very bad example as the sensor must be about 45 cm away from the exhaust manifold and installed at 90 degrees towards the gas flow . So the example I provided was just to show how that works ( in the tailpipe). You will need that boss.
