I just finished my stairs using your example (except I put a pencil in the hole). I have to say your video saved me on this project. My wife is thrilled with how the stairs came out. Thank you very much for uploading this.
This is great, thank you so much. I am remodeling my basement by myself, my first significant DIY project. I have been very nervous about the stair skirt. This video was so much easier to follow than the high tech woodworker ones I found.
Thank you so much!!! A life saver. I would not have attempted without this video. You are so relaxed and easy going. I attempted this weekend with two 14 foot boards with perfect results.
You are just the BEST! Thank you so much - yours it the fourth video I found in here and geez, it's amazing how difficult other examples are. You saved me! Yay!
Why wouldn’t you cut the bottom of the stair piece (1”x 12”) before you make the the scribes? You did it afterwards, is there a reason? I’m going to be doing this real soon and was just wondering
so glad when I did mine that they cut the treads 3/4 short along the walls no scribing, just cut the skirt board at the top and bottom to correct angles and shove it in. .
I have angled risers with bullose on the overhang. So what I did was use printer paper and scotch tape to to tape all the printer paper along the side of the wall and then cut very closely. to make a custom template.
Would it have been easier to notch the skirt when you had removed the MDF treads/risers? And can i ask why you put the pencil line on the wall at the start of the video? Very good quality video
just set a level on the step and trace the bottom for the first line, then measure your tread and run a vertical plumb line for the second. keeping that scrap level and scratching the wood is asking for errors.
I'm a little confused. I scribed for the run of the stairs like the fist part said then when to cut off the bottom that touches the floor. When I put it back up on the with what I just cut flush to the floor it moved the scribe Mark's down. It was way off. Idk what I did wrong.
@@Fish22K I thought that too, but you've already marked the horizontal cur, so the next marks are for the vertical. She started scribing the vertical cuts at the second step, rather than the first (from the floor, up). Envision sliding the whole skirt to the right (in her application) after you've made "all" the cuts.
Within a specific height. not exact. That's why her scribe is nowhere near matching up with the actual stair treads. She used a fixed scribe length on a variable stairset.
Need help before I ruin anymore wood. I see in your vid that your stair treads and rise seem even. The skirt board touches all the stairs,. My stairs are uneven, in particular the top and bottom step. This leaves gaps between the skirt board and top three treads. When i cut a test piece there was fitting issues and the gaps on those 3 step were pretty big. Any suggestions?
Unfortunately, the treads in the stairwell we're looking to do this in protrude a bit past the riser AND they're rounded. Makes the project much more challenging (which is why we've delayed it for so long). If anyone has suggestions let me know!
Chrissy Robbins most treads will have a lip that protrudes past the riser. Because I replaced my mdf treads with wood treads I cut that lip off before I replaced them. What I would suggest is to take a combination of a hand saw/jig saw/multi-purpose tool and cut off the protruding edge.
I thought about that but the protruding edge adds character to the steps. I'm now wondering if I could just notch out the edge at the sides (to the width of the skirt). That, or just hire someone. lol
@@christinerabin9130 I'm late so ur probably done now but... yes, that's what you do. That I small piece of material the same thickness as the skirt board and mark the lip at each edge. Then cut them and chisel them out.
When I was told this same method, I learned that if you round the bottom (rounded like the nosing of a typical stair tread, for example), it will mimic a typical compass-style scribe and slide along much smoother. Good luck!
Maybe I'm wrong, but these steps only seem to work if the tread and riser depths are uniform. In my 100-year old house, where these measurements vary, I did not have good results. I tried to replicate on graph paper with varying tread/riser heights, and was unable to 'scribe' using the steps as described.
Use drawing compass if u know to do the arc for a uneven stairs ..look up arc tutorials for compass...just take measurements of every step and transfer it on skirt
Set the horizontal scribe height to that of the tallest rise of your staircase (maybe even add a 1/16" or so) and scribe all the horizontals. After cutting off the bottom and repositioning the skirt in preparation for the vertical scribes, set the scribe to the deepest of the tread runs (again add a 1/16" if you wish) and scribe all the verticals. This will automatically take into account the highest and deepest height/run no matter the variances in your staircase. Buy a short piece of wood to practice from the floor to three or four steps up to and see the results. If your steps have a bull nose you can use a profile gauge to help scribe those. HTH
How do you know where and what angle to cut the bottom off? Could I do that step first, as there's a doorway at the top of my stairs and the wood won't be able to go past it?
That was the first thing she did. When she put her scribe against the floor vertically and drew the line, that's what she cut out. The whole thing then moves down one stair. Here is an article describing exactly the same process. www.thisiscarpentry.com/2013/07/12/scribing-stair-skirt-boards-revisited/
@@MrWHAAAAaaaaa Exactly, which is what she's doing... If you had paid attention, you would see that the stairs aren't finished. Once the treads and risers are installed, any gaps on the skirt will be hidden. Duhhhhh….
Why do people like you that know what they are doing always have so few subscribers, but idiots who hardly know how to hold a hammer have tons? I don't get it.
