LOL yep warren when i was a kid my dad had garbage trucks all macks we would pull the liners while the block was still in the truck, my dad would be welding up top and me and my brother would be under the truck with the bushing driver and a bottle jack pumping the liners up to my dad! God what memory's
Great video Warren, kind of freaked me out when you stuck that welding rod in the liner. But I should have known you know what you are doing. I learn something new every time I watch your videos. Thanks for sharing your videos with us!
Just love your "How I skin this Cat" attitude Warren Yrs ago we got are sleeves from LA Sleeve . We did 1 in a hoe, dead of winter in the field rigged up a tent pulled old out ,new was unfinished bored & honed in frame , It was snowing like hell..gezz what memories..thanks again my friend
I've broken more than one liner in my younger years. Even when being careful. The welding trick I learnt from an old guy who was working for my father. But to be honest I maybe have done 10 engines where I had to pull dry sleeves so breaking more than one in 10 engines hardly makes me a specialist. Nice upload Warren. It has been a while that I have seen that being done.
Thanks for the share Warren. yup heat & ice, when i used to race midgets thats how we did sleeves on them. stuff the sleeve in the freezer and we'd put the jug in the oven at about 350 degs. we had a couple 4x4's we'd put the jug on... then line up the sleeve and you were limited to how much time ya had, and she'd slide right in there like butter. God bless, take me back 40 some odd years, can't turn back the hands of time. " I like the way you talk" ..lol catch ya on the next one. Hit the like button folks!
Thank you Warren, been missing your video's, I must admit I prefer the wet liners over the dry, you've got more patients than me. Thanks for the video.👍
Fair play man, you're a braver man than me I was always too nervous to run a bead incase I burnt through the liner so I opted for the brazing torch and my extra long screwdriver. I've seen loads of men do it the same as you. Its a tried and trusted method. Good luck on getting parts. If your struggling, I might be able to get you some...
That welding trick works well on removing cup half of a timken style bearing if it’s a blind bore or to far in housing to reach with a puller. Thanks for the video, always learn from you young man.
Another great video Warren and a great way of removing the liner. Jim's Machining Service also show an alternative method where they bore the liner nearly all the way before just breaking it out. It would, of course, require a boring machine. Don't worry about the nay sayers. Let's see their videos.
Cutting Edge Engineering Australia Kurtis uses liquid nitrogen to cool parts to slide them together. Interesting work he does. Good video Warren. Always learning from you.
That's brilliant, I have removed taper roller bearing cups, an cones too (cup and cone type taper roller bearing) from housings using the same method, I never thought of it for a cylinder liner. Hope you can get all the its an pieces you need for this engine. Have a great week.
Talked to a friend of mine about rebuilding the Perkins in my little cat forklift I just bought, he mentioned that he used to hang some 100w light bulbs inside the cylinders and stick the liners in the freezer. He said you had to be careful because it would slide in so fast it would break the flanges off lol. Good idea welding them to get them out I’ll have to try that on my Perkins I’ll be tearing it apart in the next week or so.
Old school that’s what an old timer taught me back in the 70s when a diesel was a diesel engine and where we didn’t have all those fancy tools you made them yourself
I've currently got one in pieces I'm rebuilding it for a manitou off road fork truck We bought a second hand unit then realised it was a marine application perkins not a machinery engine but hey a new block was purchased and numerous other shinies lol keep up the good work love your vidiyas from the UK
"If you're nervous...this job is not for you" - Wow, just wow! I have heard about this being done, but never actually saw it in a video. Pretty extreme1 Thanks for the video Warren!
I have done both the perkins 6-354 and the Detroit 71 series dry liners just the way you did it but only ran the welding around about 4 times - once around the bottom and top and a couple of times in the middle and I'd use a little bigger hammer than you do. They surrender very well - with the perkins I would send the liners and pistons to the machine shop so they could fit the pistons to the liners - I have seen several guys put in their own liners and wind up with a egg shaped hole - put it back together and wind up with a wadded up hole in a few thousand miles. Learning how to properly use heat and cold will make you a good mechanic. I used to do equipment alignment- the trick is to know how to figure the offset between the machines. Steel grows at a rate of .00005 per inch per degree - so if you have a crankshaft that is sitting on 24 inches of steel and the oil will be running at say 210 degrees your temp rise on the engine will be - in a 70 degree room 140 degrees -so your crank will rise .007 of an inch - if your driven pump or compressor is hotter or colder you will have to compute the offset between the two centerlines at set that offset before the startup - so if your pump is say moving something that is 500 degrees and it is on a 36 inch stand its gonna grow over .021 - if u do a perfect alignment cold when things reach operating temp there will be .014 difference that your coupling will have to compensate for - if your engine is turning at 1800 rpm your coupling will have to absorb over 25 inches per minute of movement - trust me none of this machinery will live -- so when something is shaking while its turning - better figure it out soon... you will be calling Warren to sort it out. Heat can be your friend or your enemy- the trick is to know which one is it today... I'm sure your instruction helped lots of these guys Warren - good job.
Because SCIENCE!!! Things like this are what has kept me interested on working on anything from brand new, to old junk, you did it your way, it worked just fine, anyone that’s been around the trade has seen this method, weather it was heating a frozen nut or bolt, or interference fitting bearings with a bearing heater., now we all know heat expands, cold contracts, but why does welding shrink metal??? Lol , great job Warren, thanks for your time…
Awesome video like the ending looking forward to the next video. Thanks Warren for doing these videos im not a mechanic but like learning about motors until the next video peaceout.
Warren, great video! I learned a lot from this. It was interesting how you explained the difference between wet and dry liners and how they are different. I heard the terms before, but I really didn't know what that meant. Thanks . . .
That old white tank behind the forklift , is the tank they used about 50 some years ago for fuel oil , for home heating stoves , in my neck of the woods , others used coal and natural gas . In the winter my step dad would help out the local gas ,diesel , kerosene an oil supplier when work slowed down for his trucks , and people call in out of fuel oil for heat . I went with him , in a single axle tanker truck , with a 2" wind up hose reel , usually in the night , hose stiffer than a stove poker , didnt want to unwind or wind up , dragging it over fences , down drive ways an etc ... a foot or more of snow on the ground , an stand there with your teeth chattering while the tank filled up , that old tank brings back some memories , hardly ever see one of those tanks any more ........
Warren, that should be your closing line from now on. Did the same thing on a 354 Perkins. We just welded lines up and down the liners about a half inch or so apart and knocked them out. Spiral weld may work better, will have to try it if I ever do another. Always glad to see a new video. Thanks.
Jobs like welding those liners is a job for a little mig unit. Lays down a nice shallow bead without the slag and spatter but you run what you bring and got it done
Same thing with the 3208 Cat that everyone called the "throw away" engine, it was a NO LINER engine just like a gas engine. Anyway we would Bore them out and Sleeve them back to standard, most of the time in chassis as long as you had 3 foot straight shot up from cylinder bore for the boring bar
Just because an engine doesn’t have replaceable liners certainly don’t make them throw away engines. I’ve seen certain high nickel cast iron gas engine blocks that had over 400K miles on them and the bores were still in spec for standard rings. Replaceable liners allow manufacturers to use less costly nickel in the rest of the block where it’s not needed without sacrificing longevity of the product. I had a 82 Toyota 4x4 that had 630K miles on it when the head gasket finally blew from old age. Pulled it apart, checked the bores for taper/out of round, then lightly honed it and put std. rings back in it. Never used a drop of oil. Back then Toyota used the finest quality cast iron that you could get in a gas engines.
Warren I did my caterpillar 320c it has the cat 3066 (Mitsubishi) it has the same dry liners unfinished they don't have finished ones I did the same pulled liners torch and long skinny screw driver striped the block down and had machine shop press in new sleeves and bore them and had heads done the worst part was waiting for machine shop took for ever! I don't get some machine shops
That’s definitely an old school technique that definitely will stand the test of time! Great content and conversation. I gotta remember to bring a notepad and pencil to class next time buddy. I’ll also be sure to arrive sooner and get a closer seat. Class in session
Hi Warren 😃 if anybody can do it better let them stand up to the plate and show us how, your way of doing it worked great, easy peasy. Thanks for another interesting video mate, and I hope your mum's doing ok after the move, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Back in the day the last 2 cylinders on a u model Mack were in the cab we used a bottle jack and plug and a couple of beads with the welder and out they came
My old Ford 380 was dry liner like that, a friend of mine used to do on site and shop boring before he retired he used to have a special metal handled screwdriver he used to use to brake out the dry liners, he used to hammer it down between the block and liner
Years ago , if you rebuilt a car or truck engine you planned on keeping , an it needed bored , you bored it out and installed steel sleeves , because the steel sleeves do not wear as fast as the cast iron engine block .....Some industrial gas engines came with steel sleeves already installed from the factory ....
I had a Iveco 432T that spun a bearing. I could not source parts any where for it. Came out of a Case 420 series 3 skid steer. Ended up putting a used Cummins 4B in it. Simple swap and much better engine IMO.
I've say them on a fork and used the hydraulic press and push them out easy. Welding is another method , using a hydraulic jack and a bridge puller is another method used often
Hahaha for naysayers about welding on a liner, learn first before speaking. Growing up on the family farm, we've done this so many times. To be honest, I learned this from my grand dad when he was still alive. I learned a lot from him, them old timers, knew more tricks than the educated idiots that designed the stuff. Great video as always, cheers :)
You're right Warren, when I first did a dry liner my machine shop recommended welding the old liner to get it out ..they are a large machine shop that works on the large waukesha engines ..They were right ,it works
I'm always learning something new on your channel .well done ,keep up the great work Warren I suppose the odd viewer is gonna have to head down to the corner store and buy a bag of sand after watching this video . Lmfao Keep them videos coming Safe travels 🙏
Hi warren tam here seen pakastany truck repair and they board the liners took a screwdriver and chapped it down the side off the liners and just bust the liner down one side.
Dill a hole the same size as your air hammer pin in the big pin you where hitting with the big hammer. The air hammer will dive out the sleeve better with the weighted pin.
I was told that about 3 runs of weld the full length of the liner was enough to shrink it (when it cooled) to be able to knock it out.........but I've not tried it myself.
