To me I love them Both but here are a couple thouhgts I have on both. Plus I need a new one anyway. www.schofieldwelding.com schofieldwelding@gmail.com instagram schofield1990 facebook Jacob Schofield facebook Schofield Welding
One thing I like to do that you didnt is, i shorten the thumb handle too. I cut about an inch off and get a rubber sleeve from a 1/2" ballvalve. That will keep it from arcing off stuff. I shorten my handle about the width of my palm tho. And as mentioned, get replacement parts man, $10 spring or less, is cheaper than a whole stinger that still has life in it. But I been wondering how those spring steel wedges been holding up. I been waiting to order them. Was hoping for a review vid.
Martin Wells stubby stingers are my go to! You ought to try them. I know the youngsters don't like them because they weld so cold they stick the rod and can't just squeeze to let the rod loose.
I keep finding stingers in my shop that are older than I am. I bought my uncle's place and he left me an Airco 3-A welder and the stingers were probably from that.
I use a victory400 twist stinger they last me a good few years of abuse, and can handle 5x400 316l's takes about 20 rods until it gets to hot to handle..
valve spring out of an SA200 works if you lose that spring, also ive used I think it was 2/0 heat shrink to replace those spring insulators and help insulate the handle better..and after all that if you really wanna extend its life, when the V gets worn down from rods just build it up with some silicon bronze... and use a triangle file or jewelers file if you add to much to it. ive only bought one Stinger V in the past 10 years of real welding. the other thing about those t300 is they are good if you wanna switch polarity or if your demagnetizing pipe!
Live my stinger V, but I did have to re-insulate the thumb release. She chipped that black coating off pretty easy and arc'd out a time or 2. I keep that and my 400amp Bernard on the rig handy all the time. Keep up the great videos and have a great day brother.
Great stingers. I put quick connects about 20 ft down my hot lead. That way when need to do a little tig welding I can break out clamp style lead to hook to quick connect for power block. Hope you enjoyed vacation!
I prefer to crimp those lugs on.. that copper turns solid when crimped properly.. and as a repeat job, keeping a ring spanner handy will save his knuckles.
Mine does same. Fine with 8th in 60s but I go to cap with my 3/32 7018 and rod just flaps around.. pretty much useless for code quality work because I've literally been burning and rod slipped and arcd on pipe and that's unacceptable in my field
crackerjax27526 I keep two whips. One with a V and one with a regular clamp type so I can clamp on to a power block. You can also buy a power block with a cable connector bolted to it so you just have to put the cable connector on the end of your lead straight on to it. It also has a rubber boot that goes around it so there's not an exposed power block.
What size cables are you running for your stinger and ground? I’m a welding student in NC and I just bought a SA-200 and need to replace the old leads. Thanks for all the great videos!
Hey i just started with my first company and plan to go take my structural welding test soon we weld with 5/32 7018 but im already looking to go further and eventually want to become a pipe liner and plan to go to Tulsa welding school in Jacksonville Florida but idk where to even start looking for pipe lining jobs, im just trying to form a career path and was wondering if you had any tips on where to look for boiler maker or pipe liner jobs
As said above, they take too long to change rods and if you’re on a job where arc burns will get you fired, and wiggling a stuck rod loose will sometimes make you arc burn on the material-they’re too much trouble to take off of a rod when it sticks. I used one on one occasion and said never again.
If you just used the proper tool, in this case a box wrench, you would not bust any knuckles. Also, I'm surprised you guys don't solder the stinger lug on. Does the cable work loose?
@@JacobSchofield it's easier to buy a new one so you dont have to "mechanic". Get a ratchet and socket so you dont bust your knuckles when you take apart the lug and put it back together. Lol and it will help prevent stripping the nut..
I got an insulated stinger v that's pry a year old been used somewhat.. never professionally so pry 15hrs a week and I use 8th in 6010 and 3/32 70s so id say 75to95 amps and it won't hold a 3/32 rod for shit anymore. For the price and amount of use I expected more personally.
Why do you cut the wire instead unbolt the terminal and mount in on the new one it Saves the copper. And if the copper is only black near the end, it has probably something to do with the way u attach the wire to the terminal.
0:25 easy as fuck to fix those on the fly. All you need is a k type thermocouple (like $30 tops), a can, some lead, a torch, and an oil bath. *STEP ONE IS SET UP OUTDOORS* Lead fumes are a class "don't fuck around" hazard. Put a soup can on something that won't burn then fill it with lead. Next remove the spring (usually it's just 1-2 screws/1 rivet) and hit it hard with the torch. Get it glowing hot and keep it there for a good minutes or two, then let it cool down completely in open air. Its now renormalized and free of internal stresses. Next you're gonna wanna melt the lead in the can, and drop the thermocouple in there. 750°f is your magic number for a strong spring. Throw it in the lead (which is there for even heating so ya don't get weak spots) and let it stew a while, say 5 mins or so. Then just pull it straight out and drop it in some old motor oil. Boom, factory fresh for $0 and maybe 3 minutes actual "work". But you do you boo, I'm just weird when it comes to stuff like this. Don't fix it if it ain't broke and have a go if it is. Ya only need a new one when "royaly fucked" is applicable 😁
read the small print.. you have to ensure that the contact bolt in the middle has a clean surface.. it's the only thing going to ground.. the magnets just hold it there.. .. fine for sheet work where there's no edge to clamp... but for the workshop, weld an M20 bolt head to the steel table and clamp on that
I do a lot of wiring and the best way to do a big 2/0 plus terminal like that without a proper crimper is to Put the wire in take something with a chisel Tip. Use that chisel to make a crease right down the center of it length wise till the end you chiseling is touch the other end it will be in the shape of a B at this point then put it in your vise and close that crease up so it’s a tighter B. You get good enough at it. It looks and performs better then one that’s been done with just a crimper
