Desperate times call for desperate measures. It’s can be hard to keep a cool calm and collected mind when you find your self in a panicky situation. The worst thing you can do is panic and make a mistake so if you ever find yourself in a “situation” try to stay calm and work out what the safest method would be to get out of it. You aren’t dead and you will just hang there so don’t make the situation worse and die. Tie back up knots if you can so you don’t rappel lower, tie knots in the rope if you have too to stand on. Just never fully un clip and think you can climb out of it. And better yet never get yourself in this situation in the first place.
I would just grab a quickdraw or carabiner and flip my atc into guide mode onto my harness, put my prusik above with a carabiner, clip the rope in that carabiner and up i go again... I think it would be really helpful for some people if you show that concept aswell. I would never buy a atc without a guide ring, whats yout opinion on that? Greetings from switzerland :)
Spoken like someone who has never owned a paracord bracelet! First problem is most of them are made of gutted paracord (USELESS for this situation!) Second problem is that generally smart people realized this might be a problem and as such paracord bracelets are a loose daisy chain technique with a hitch knot on the end... You just undo the knot and flick the rest of the bracelet outward, and the whole thing is magically undone...
@@DingleFlop well that is true, I have never owned one. I do however have a leash on my brush made out of daisychained light-weight cord that would mimic the shoe lace in this scenario. It lives on my chalk bag.
the crochet blanket i carry of paracord is a lifesaver imagine being able to unleash another 1000ft or more of line to the bottom with a simple undo one knot unravel climbing Cape and home free
Was on a multipitch in Laos a few years ago, took a little longer than anticipated. We had to rappel down in the dark, this led to missing a set of anchors to begin the next rappel. All of a sudden I hit my knots. I remember my climbing partner double checking that I tied them. Always tie knots!!!!
I'm sure there's a few ways of doing this. one way I can think of is tying into one end of the rope and using your tube like crappy brake for SRT, like what they do in tree work. it basically turns your tube into a very low efficiency 2-1 pulley, su you can just pull up on it, and you're lifting yourself slowly up the rope. tie a knot every so often as a progress capture. super sketchy when you're transitioning, but if it's that or freeze to death during the night, I know what I'm choosing. edit: actually if you set up your rappel properly in the first place, this isn't that sketchy, because you'd always be on a secured strand of your double rope.
Maybe if there was enough rope left or was able to gain some rope by hip thrusting and arm power. to then tie a loop in the rope (alpine butterfly, below ATC) then a Blake’s hitch And use that instead of shoe lace.
After your initial shoelace jumar, use the Tail of the rope to tie a blakes hitch above the ATC and an alpine butterfly big enough for your foot to loop into.
Great video as always. Bonus luxury situation: if you happened to rappel with an ATC-guide in this situation you can leave the extension biner where it is and clip the "guide ring" of your ATC directly to your belay loop with another carabiner. This way you are in guide mode, and you have assisted/auto breaking. Moreover if you have one more spare carabiner, you can clip it next to your pedal prusik up above and redirect the ropes there -> 2 to 1 pulley for free ;)
Yeah, I was scrolling the comments to find out whether someone had already written this down or it is my job. Thank you for doing it for me. There are many ways how to ascend a rope using prusik and atc. Presonally I use combination of prusik and atc in case of urgency. When I have more time/ material I rather use two prusik knots. There is useful knot used by arborists (in Czech it is called "vánočka", i have no clue what is the English name) which can be knotted from sewed sling or rather thick sling /rope and used as ascender.
Sometimes you only find out the hard way that it's sketchy. That;s good argument for making sure the first one down has everything necessary to climb back up.
Great video as always, I’m just curious what would you do if you were being lowered from a route you just lead climbed and the belayer ran out of rope so you are stuck in the air. I know if the route is without a overhang you could probably just climb up and unclip some clips until you have enough rope but what if you were in mid air what would be the best way to get down?
One option is a pull and hop up method you can work with your belayer you may see some sport climbers do this to get back to where they last where. They reach up high do a pull up throw themselves up and the belayer will fall down this will give them upward progress and hopefully you aren’t too far down.
This isn’t really redundant but if you’re able to touch the wall you can clip in direct to a bolt or a few pieces and then weight that, untie, pull the rope and then lower off of that piece
I always keep two prussik loops on my harness. You can wrap them around the part of the leg loop that goes up toward the belay loop, and they just stay on there all the time! They take up basically no space or weight, and I've got two in case of emergencies.
I climb on a double rope system. A hitch climber pulley. I did made on end my line once I just body thrust up the tree again. That when had a 120feet rope. I was about 75ft or 80ft up never again.
Wrap the end of the rope around your leg a few times to create a tensionless hitch for a backup whilst moving the hollowblock. Obviously you'll need to move far enough up the rope to allow this.
Cool but I have some input to that :-) You don't have to use shoe lace - just leave enough rope under the blocker knot to make foot loop to stand. Next you can clip ATC closer to you and free the green sling that was used to extend ATC. Then you could use the sling to make prusik :-) Another thing is that when you untie the prusik you can block ATC by Munter hitch blocked by Overhand knot. That way you don't have to keep your hand on ATC.
If you have a good eye you may have caught me at the end sitting in a clove hitch lol I ended up doing exactly what you described it was a bit slower but more bomber. The nylon PAS was very slippery.
I don’t think this would have helped Toni Kurtz, he lost a glove and couldn’t even tie a knot, his hands were so cold and he probably had rubbish shoe laces.
It made me nervous watching you open the ATC biner to clip your belay loop while hoping your shoelace holds your weight.. I guess you're still on the hollowblock if you utterly botch it.
This is really good for dummies who don't carry 2 belay devices, multiple slings and an accender. If you are one of these dummies quit climbing right now. Always take both up and down gear with a back up down gear.
Just another reason why I wouldn't take a tube without guide mode, would make all this much easier. And it's good to rember that a friction hitch will work with a dyneema or nylon sling, if you hapoen to have an alpine draw, or your anchor sling.
Cool Video! I think its worth mentioning, once you get a little bit above the ends of the rope, its possible to tie off the ATC with the extra rope, to go hands free, and then move the hollow block , or make other adjustments to the climbing setup. You seemed to manage just fine, but its a good skill to demonstrate, as its hard to do stuff one-handed. (also as a belayer, to tie off a climber who's taking a long rest the rope) Maybe you already showed this on another video though. Great idea about the shoelaces or chalkbag cord !! I Just found your channel one video ago. When You mentioned that you gave away a Lov2 at the end of the other video, I was like, "What!!?! Awesome!" Ive been meaning to get my hands on a Taz. Really cool and unique piece of kit, I havent seen or tried one in person yet..
Yo what cameras and mics are you using? Been looking at a few lav mics but I like how your stuff sounds. Always making outdoor content and dealing with wind.
Check out my Amazon store I try to keep all my camera gear there. It’s a 1dx mark 2 I forgot the mic name. I’m looking to upgrade to an canon R5 but that is just so I can eventually get a gimble and more in camera stability. The 1dx is a tank so super strong but to bulky the r5 should lightin my haul bag a bit. Camera gear isn’t cheap, I think I might be over killing it though you can prob get away with a lot less then what I’m using.
Something go add when moving your hollow block from below to above: you can tie a catastrophe knot below your atc so that if your brake hand does slip, you'll only fall as far as that knot will allow
The very first time I belayed, the experienced climber I was with started out a climb from a ledge and traversed over to the main line, but the rope wasn’t long enough for him to be lowered to the ground, only enough length to get to the ledge. As he was topping out, other climbers started gathering around, including Peter Croft lol, and they were freaking out saying that he was gonna rap off the end of the rope. I had no idea what I was supposed to do...but he down climb traversed back to the ledge. I still don’t know why he made a novice like me deal with that.
That’s a neat set up josh. The configuration is like the rope wrench. With the belay device adding a bend in the line for you. Good info. Can come in handy in tree work too.
Firstly a prusik is convinient to use in any case when descending...secondly organizing a break point with some sling...third...if you dont have those things...the fuck are you descending a cliff?
Once I rappelled down into a small, allegedly 30m deep cave with a 70m rope (2x 35m should get me to the bottom, I thought). At the end of the rope I did not reach the ground though - not even close... Dangling in the middle of a round cave with no contact to any wall... Nobody else was able to rappel down, because I was still attached to the only rope. Communication with partners was not possible anymore because of heavy reverb. Then the batteries of my head lamp died and the cave went pitch black. What a very stupid idea this whole cave exploration thing was to beginn with, I thought. Always carrying 3 different length prusik slings with me though. Attached them in the dark to the rope (with some fear to drop them)... Wrapped both around the ropes and attached the short one to the harness and the long one to a foot. Now it was just a matter of alternately moving one of the prusiks upwards, weighting it, then moving the other one upwards. Causes some sweat to repeatedly stand up on one leg for 35m meters, but works like a charm and you cannot drop. Requires two slings and two carabiners though... What an adventure - in retrospect.
If you are in a multi-pitch rappel scenario, you should absolutely have some other slings or cord on your harness to use as a real, weight-bearing friction hitch (or 2), or better yet a tibloc, microtrax, grigri, or any other actual climbing gear. Heck, make a garda hitch out of 2 nonlockers (or lockers). This scenario using your shoelaces is honestly absurd, especially if you are wearing climbing shoes and the laces have been jammed in cracks so they are likely worn.
Cool video, but I would have understood a lot more if you explained what a Prusec and a Hollow Block was. No idea what ATC stands for but I understood that it is a manual rope brake.
dang shouldn't have invested in shoelaceless shoes like velcro and stretchy rubber frankensteins that wear out leaving your shoes to just fall off or whatever they're call pumps? or zippered shoes?
Bro that subscribe and bell falling on your head got me to subscribe, but only after having seen several of your videos already, several of which being climbing fails where you responsibly mention helmets. ⛑
First when you rappeling you need at least one reverso, in order to turn you belay device in this case. You also need 2 cord loop OR put your prusik above your belay device when you go down. Also your belay device should be closer to your belly in order to be able to put something above it. Well your method is working but I think you didn't really helped yourself 😅
Suuuuper bad practice to remove the block before throwing in a safety! Before you remove the hollow block throw a figure 8 on a bite into the tails, then clip it to your belay loop. Then you can rest on the knot. There should never be a time when you don’t have redundancy built into the system…
Most climbers might have a sling or alpine draw to substitute a fragile shoe lace. My shoelace would never survive a couple feet. If you take your block off first, you aren’t traveling past the knot and might be able to block off the atc first. Moral of the story, tie a knot at the end of your ropes and use an auto block.
I am sitting here trying to get my body to do what you are doing and my muscles are getting mad about it great exercise, maybe you should start a work out video😅.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oYwRHC5yNq0.html , its in spanish , and by the way if you actually get some feet of cord left(not arriving to the knot) you can make an alpenverein knot with the same cord to ascend it (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VyIWYFDXWb0.html)
So the sad part is most people don't bother putting knots in the end of their ropes so would be in a lot more trouble than you were from the start. Ps. I know someone who had to tell a girl rapping on the line next to his to stick her finger in belay device rather than slide off the end of the rope. She wouldn't do it and died, start with those knots. - so ends this downer of public service announcement
prusik knot and or ascenders.. best to have your knot at the end of your rope up a bit so you have some rope out at the end to I do like what you did here as a last resort...
At the 5 min mark, where you were on brake on the ATC and fiddling with your hollow block at the same time, you should have locked off your ATC with an overhand slip followed by another overhand and be able to go handsfree to mess with your other systems. Be a little more redundant in your systems. And be wary on how you teach, as without these redundancies, you can cost lives. For this, I'd suggest in looking up "how to escape from a belay" vids. Maybe that'll help?... You even have any SPI or AMGA cert? And please, make a follow up video of what you've learned after this, how you better yourself and added redundancies in your system. "Desperate times calls for desperate measures" also means you gotta slow down and think through and back your system up. Drop a crucial piece of gear and you'll be left wondering what you could have done better.
You could just climb with two prusiks and an extra double length. Save yourself from having to use shoelaces. Especially cause you'll likely need shoes attached to your feet to continue bailing, if they fall off cause they're unlaced, you've just created another problem for yourself ie. now you're barefoot. Just use the extra prusik and double length to stand up on, it's far more ergonomic and far more secure.
Right on it’s better to be well equipped than have to use your show laces but the point is when push comes to shove, use what every you can. Rip your shirt and make prussic if you have too. The problem is when people get stuck like that they try to unclip and solo down. And then end up died when they could have used shoe laces ect.
Lol I did this trying to rappel and get my gear on an overhung cliff. Pulled the last one out and away I swung. Too bad I hadn’t watched this before I was fiddling with my autoblock below the rappel device!
Arbor climber here, and just my two bits but I use an atc and a prusik as my normal climbing system lol you made that sound like it was intense but that’s just a Tuesday for me
@@BetaClimbers I could, I replace my laces with stronger line! Nothing like losing a boot 100’ up in a conifer! Love the channel man, I learn a lot from you. I’m hoping to try some rock climbing, but first need to find a route near where I am lol
@@wtfwhereami right on yeah find your self a partner with gear and experience and go have some fun. You can find people on forums or maybe my discord also rock gyms
@@BetaClimbers yea, I’ve tried looking around, but I’d have to drive a couple hundred miles just to have a climbable wall. I have all the gear I’d need, aside from dynamic rope. Arbor climbing is all about static lines lol hell I have enough gear for three climbers
