@@stanroberts229 yeah man, and calm, I'm digging bikes out of the woods trying to build a steel gravel bike and it's rough. I've threw every thing down for a few days. Some folks have what it takes, I've got to walk away and came back later.
Vintage threaded headset are simple to install and easy to maintain with the correct tools. Ahead designed headset may not have any easy solutions to fix, much like those press fit BBs with poor engineered tolerances, where you can't take a Campagolo headset cutter to the frame. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jfW_iimqsTk.html
more of this please!!! Only been cycling 2 years and want to be capable of doing my own maintenance beyond drivetrain cleaning and fixing punctures, but to do that I feel like I need a base knowledge of how the puzzle fits together
As to what to show next, though I’m sure BBS will win the requests, I would love to see a cut away frame so we could see how many ways internal cabling is run.
I'd like to see more about shifting and derailleurs if possible, I'm just getting into road cycling... been on fixed gear's for awhile so I'd like to know all I can! Cheers and thanks
Great video man. You're clear and concise with extra information as and when it's needed. As someone with barely any knowledge in bike mechanics I was able to reassemble an old bike 👌 super helpful
A great feature Jon, love a deep-dive into the tech world. The bicycle is a seemingly simple machine but without these simple and few parts being understood and fitted correctly then there lies trouble. Not sure if there is a feature in it but would you consider demonstrating how to conduct checks and assessments of bikes...? How to detect cable drag, bearing wear, identifying the dreaded creak and squeak origins maybe? More thorough than a pre-ride check...also how about historical features on bike manufacturers...BSA and Orbea being gun makers back in the day I believe. Thanks, keep them coming and the rubber side down...
You often have to re-check the headset bearing adjustment after installing the stem since the expansion wedge can affect the threaded cup a slight bit.
I bought a new bike and I tightened the headset like a mofo and the front fork is barely rotation. I had no idea how headsets worked, until I watched this video. Now I have to go back to my garage and loosen that dammed headset before I have my first ride with the bike. Thanks for the video, I subscribed and I'm hoping to learn everything about bikes in the next couple of years.
Great video as always. I watched a previous GCN video showing threadless headset just slipping into the frame with no tools needed. As a novice I merrily dismantled my steel frame bike to discover the threadless headset was interference fit. Needed to buy: removal tool, installation tool, star nut installation tool (and a large metal drill bit to get rid of old one). Was rather costly all in all! Just worth bearing in mind when deciding whether to DIY or LBS. I was chuffed to have done it myself, and don't mind getting new tools.
That what you said about the 0.25mm washer...i took my bike to a shop and they changed the height for the stem after a bike fit. I'm pretty sure they didn't put this washer in. I've since put one in but it's not thin enough. Without it the bearing don't compress properly leaving headset loose. To the point now I have that so much issues with it coming loose or not feeling right that I might just buy a different headset
I have two race bikes and yes they are just like the ones you have done Jon many thanks it does take longer to do threaded headsets but I needed to change them over twenty yeas ago and you don’t forget how to do them. One question where was your GLOVES just saying great vid
Thank you Integrated headset starts at 10:55. I got a brand new frame, totally naked. I need to buy a headset - I see there are so many types, probably the upper and lower diameter are key parameters but I see several other parameters I can chose from --> confused.
what a beautiful simoncini bike! I hope you still have it! what year is it and how much does it weigh? what grease are you using in the video? very well done video!
Guess I am a little late to the party. I own a 40+ year-old Gitane Pro with all first-gen Dura Ace, and I had never heard of the threadless until today. I had wondered why the headsets on newer bikes looked different; now I know. Looks like a nice system, but there is absolutely no adjustment that I can see. I know the current trend is to slam the bars as low as possible to be more aero, but some of us are past that point. Call me old school, but I will stick with a threaded. Great video, though!
Fun fact: Specialized tapered headset bearings are nowhere to be found in Russia, just ordered them from England. Shoutout to the Edge Sports UK store!
please make a video about every detail assembly (like this one) for every component of the bike! I really want to completely disassemble my bike and put it back together but I don't have any tools :( Love this video BTW :)
Sorry to be dumb about this, 14:12 was there a bit of video missing - the upper bearing being fitted? Was the thing with a split in it the compression ring, or is that also the bearing? I really appreciate these videos, but if they are for the likes of me, please include everything - e.g. the tool that you used to fit the traditional bottom ring, seeing you hit that (so we can glean what sort of force is needed) and with what type of hammer, what do you stand the forks on while you hit down on them - these little things really would help. Last questions: Does Chris have his brakes the other way round (you're holding the left brake to check for rocking)? and (novice question) is it always ok to remove the top cap (to check for the gap you mentioned) or is there some risk of the bung coming loose? Thanks for these videos.
My old bike that I used to rack on back in the day had the old style with a Campy headset. My new one has an A headset...much easier to setup and adjust the A and to me it makes much more sense to bolt the stem directly to the steerer.
The locknut of the threaded headset usually incorporated an O ring, which sealed against the stem, preventing water ingress. It's therefore easier to install the stem before tightening the locknut - otherwise pushing the wedge of the stem thru the O ring could damage it.
Using a threaded headset means that you can use a quill stem where the handle bar height can be adjusted infinitely for the perfect drop position height without affecting the headset pre load and the need to use spacers. If the ahead stem is slammed with the steerer tube cut down for safety you cannot raise the handlebars if required in the future. And no ahead stem comes close to the classic look of a Cinelli XA quill stem.
At least with threadless, you can adjust it with allen key instead of two big spanners. Also, threadless stems don't bulge the steerer like quill stems do, which is also exacerbated by having to put grease on the quill in order to prevent seizing. And that's because water and sweaty can-and will- easily make its way in the gap between the steerer and quill. watch?v=Dy44e5J9xsw watch?v=0GRbdnTRH-4 watch?v=8b4t42wiJpQ watch?v=knEvRhM-g4Q watch?v=7GvN7w386U0
An excellent way to feel even the smallest play inside the headset: is to work the front brake and than push the hole bike a little back and forth. You will feel a tiny bit of movement until your headst is adjusted perfectly.
This is going to turn into Jon Canning's Bike Overhaul Adventures! If it's not, I would pay to watch it, we'll also learn how many bikes JC has hidden from the better half :D
Lovely and succinct but could have done with a couple more closeup on crucial ball race bits. Still not sure which way up they should be as he appeared to put top one on the other way from what I was expecting after seeing how he did bottom one. I thought they would be opposite - two seconds more explanation would have done the trick. Hopefully watching that bit again will sort it out.
final adjustments of a traditional headset should be done after installing the quill stem as the binder bolt/wedge slightly distorts the steerer tube affecting the adjustment slightly
the slight bulging of the quill wedge and hence the steerer tube effectively shortens the length of the tube between bearings , not much but it can change the carefully set bearing preload.
Hey bike-lovers, can I get an honest opinion? I've got a mountainbike I'm very happy with (a rockrider series from decathlon). Every year I sent it to an atelier for maintenance, to keep it in good condition. Usually that's between 50 and 100 euro. I trust they do the necessary. It's always similar. Usually we change the chain and/or the brakes. Sometimes we replace a wheel or a sprocket when necessary. Always very happy, get along great with those guys. I always understand what they're telling me. This year I give it to a new dude (/same place though) and I immediately get the impression of getting an opportunistic salespitch. Even before he looks at the chain and the brakes, he starts unbolting the fully functional 'headset', warning me of the common danger of losing control of the steering wheel in full speed. (a very common danger i personally never heard of.. (?) , and I don't find any online examples of .. (?) with a steering wheel that had no issues at all as far as i know) For some opaque reason, even though I'm not completely bike-illiterate, the chain could not be replaced without changing the brand new sprocket (from that same store, a year earlier), which is something that never was a problem before. Though we remained cordial and polite, the guy got a bit nervous, did not expect I'd start pushing back a lil on his expert opinion of every issue he saw with my bike, as he was, in my eyes at least, trying to drive up unnecessary costs, and even seemingly wanting to collect brand new parts from my bike to sell me replacements for it. We didn't even get to the end of his list of issues he had written down, because of the questions I asked him and that startled him a bit. I'm not an especially difficult client, who is ever-mistrusting of services rendered, i really respect the mechanics and usually trust their good judgement, but the supposed issue with the 'headset' felt like a red flag to me ? Is there really a common danger with a functional headset suddenly malfunctioning and making a bike completely stearless? Just to test my suspicions with someone, from what I'm telling here, do any of you know if I was correct to be wary of this salesperson? I'm unsure. Thanks!
Drivetrain wear in terms of how long the bike has been used is tough as so much factors in. Quality of the kit, how it’s cleaned and lined, how it’s setup, the conditions you ride in and the mileage make that hard. The best way for you to keep a check of this would be to get a chain checker tool, very cheap and you can tell yourself when you need a new chain, cassette, chainring and jockey wheels by measuring the wear. In regard to the headset it depends what type, if it’s a quill type stem with a threaded fork then yes there is risk of the bars moving independently to the fork if not tightened. If it’s a thread less setup then the only reason that would happen is if the pinch bolts on the stem were not tightened, even if the bearings completely collapsed then you would have a lot of play but while the headset is under compression it will generally hold everything in place anyway but you would have independent steering. People just don’t tighten bolts and s*** happens he’s just talking out of his arse.
"and now you just put on some greasy fingerprints on Opie's bike so that he sees what he gets from lending it to me ..." :D just kidding :-) nice video, Jon! thanks for the nice explanation and inside-view
how are you going to line up the bar and stem from sitting off at such an angle? lol… i always have to look right over mine and then ride it afterwards to check and adjust
I've been advised that if you slam your stem, you want to always leave 5-10 mm of spacers on top of the stem but Chris's bike's steerer is flush with his stem. Is there a reason his can go flush and others can't? Thanks
i will recommend steer tube higher than stem, add extra spacer its better the stem can fully hold the steer tube about the expansion plug, try to find the longest one as you can. torque up min.5~6nm better be 7nm it the expansion plug not tighen enough, when you preload the headset bearing, it will keep bring up the expansion plug and the plug will damage the inside of steer tube
But once you preloaded your bearings, tightening the stem bolts should keep the preload. The top cap and star nut will not be relied on much after that.
Ok so you greased the headset cups when pressing them in, what's the hive mind opinion on this, I've heard and done both (grease vs dry) and not convinced either is correct.
Depends on how wet your riding conditions are and if you feel anything off in the front end. After a many very wet rides, dirt and water gets into the bearings and bottom race. It can feel rough, get a creaking sound, or even get some play. Good to clean it all out and a fresh coat of grease.
I recently lowered my stem by moving four 5mm spacers from below the stem to above (haven't yet cut the fork) and for this reason the top cap tightens above the four spacers (as opposed to above the stem) just not sure if this will cause play in the whole assembly.
Hi Arman, 20mm is a relatively tall stack on top of the stem, but the assembly is designed to work with spacers above the stem as long as there are no 'free floating' spacers that aren't constrained by the fork then this is fine. Ideally you should cut the forks once you have the correct fit though!
Both are excellent systems, but the threaded needs that "Goldilocks" touch. Also- I like the conversion to loose bearings instead of caged bearings. RJ The Bike Guy has a couple neat tutorials on how to do it. Cheaper and stronger.
That Simoncini ist just beautiful! Would be even more beautiful with a Campagnolo Super Record track- or C-Rec headset and something like a gleamingly polished Cinelli 1a or 1r stem and matching silver handelbars wrapped in red benotto cello tape to complimentarily contrast the nice forest green of the frame.
2:26 that dust seal broke when I just installed a new fork on my bike. Is that absolutely necessary even though the bike originally came with it? I would like to buy it, but not sure if they sell just that part.
Amd..., when the threaded fitting in a carbon crankarm leaves the crankarm and is "welded" to the pedalaxle, how to get it of the pedal WITHOUT ruining it ???
@@JonCannings yes thanks. Its been soaking in penetrant for 3 days, its even been cooled down for 24 hours as well (the hole pedal + attached threaded insert (that should have stayed inside the crankarm)). Pedals was fastened some years ago by a friend (its he's bike), and we wanted to change to different pedals. Problem is how not to destroy the outside threads on the insert, when unscruwing/removing it from the pedal...
