How & Why To Adjust The Headset On Your Bike | Maintenance Monday

Подписаться 702 тыс.

Просмотров 71 тыс.

50% 1

Your headset is an integral part of your bike as it controls everything to do with turning your handlebars. Alex explains all you need to know about headsets, including how to fit, check and adjust yours, as well as potential issues that you may find on your bike.
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:23 What is a headset?
1:16 How to fit a headset
5:16 Potential issues
6:04 How to check & adjust your headset
7:25 Outro
Useful Links:
Adventure Documentaries, Exclusive Shows & Live Racing on GCN+: gcn.eu/plus
Download the GCN App for free: gcn.eu/app
Visit the GCN Shop: gcn.eu/gcnshop
Join the GCN Club: www.gcnclub.com/
What other maintenance videos would you like to see us make? Let us know in the comments below! 💬
If you liked this video, be sure to give it a thumbs up 👍 and share it with your friends!
Watch more on GCN Tech...
📹 5 Of The Best Weight Saving Bike Upgrades 👉 • 5 Of The Best Weight S...
📹 Watch our Editor’s Choice Playlist 👉 gcntech.co/EditorsChoice
📹 Watch the latest GCN Tech Show 👉 gcntech.co/GCNTechShow
🎵 Music - licensed by Epidemic Sound 🎵
lilcas - ocean jams
EqualX - Gregory David
#gcntech #gcn #cycling #roadbike #bike #maintenance #bikemaintenance #bikelife
Photos: © Velo Collection (TDW) / Getty Images & © Bettiniphoto / www.bettiniphoto.net/
Brought to you by the world’s biggest cycling channel, the Global Cycling Network (GCN), GCN Tech is the only channel you need for all things bike tech - past, present and future.
Simply put, we’re obsessed with tech: we seek out and showcase the best in bikes, components, tech, accessories, upgrades and more from races and events, tech shows and product launches across the globe to bring you the best in road bike technology.
We’ve also got great maintenance videos to help you get the most from your bike; pro-bike tours from all the biggest races; special features and the weekly GCN Tech Show. We also take a deeper look into the future of cycling, apps, smart tech and virtual riding.
Join us on the channel and the GCN App to submit your content, vote on the latest tech and keep abreast of exciting new trends.
Thanks to our sponsors:
Castelli Clothing: gcn.eu/Castelli
Giro Helmets: gcn.eu/Giro
Pinarello Bikes: gcn.eu/Pinarello
Zipp Wheels: gcn.eu/Zipp
Topeak Tools: gcn.eu/Topeak
Canyon Bikes: gcn.eu/-Canyon
Pirelli Tyres: gcn.eu/Pirelli
Orbea Bikes: gcn.eu/Orbea
Vision Wheels: gcn.eu/Vision
Wahoo Fitness: gcn.eu/Wahoo-Fitness
Park Tool: gcn.eu/-parktool
Elite Bottles: gcn.eu/EliteBottles
Whoop Fitness: gcn.eu/Whoop
Komoot: gcn.eu/komoot
Selle Italia: gcn.eu/SelleItalia
SIS: gcn.eu/ScienceInSport
Zwift: gcn.eu/Zwift
Shimano Wheels: gcn.eu/Shimano
Shadow Stand: gcn.eu/ShadowStand
DMT Shoes: gcn.eu/DMT
Muc-Off: gcn.eu/MucOff
Watch our sister channels:
Global Cycling Network - / gcn
GCN Racing - / gcnracing
Global Triathlon Network - / gtn
GCN Italia - / gcnitalia
GCN en Espanol - / gcnenespanol
GCN auf Deutsch - / gcnaufdeutsch
GCN en Francais - / gcnenfrancais
GCN Japan - / gcnjapan
GCN Training - / gcntraining
Global Mountain Bike Network - / gmbn
GMBN Tech - / gmbntech
Electric Mountain Bike Network - / embn

Спорт

Опубликовано:

23 июл 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 196

@gcntech Год назад

What other maintenance videos would you like to see us make?

@guest_informant Год назад

General creaking. I think Si did one a while ago. You've probably done other ones since, but might be worth updating?

@larsdohmen6796 Год назад

How ro clean and re-grease headset, bottom bracket and wheel bearings etc. By taking off the dust covers from the bearings and then cleaning and regreasing them

@KenSmith-bv4si Год назад

Alex how to replace wheel hub bearings, say I wanna upgrade to "ceramic" or swapping out a threaded DUB bottom bracket with a Ceramic Speed threaded bottom bracket

@guest_informant Год назад

Jobs you *really* should do every 6 months or so, say, eg remove and re-grease pedals, remove and treat seatpost to stop it seizing, etc. What are the simple jobs which have the potential to save you a major expense, potentially up to a new bike if, say, the seatpost is totally seized. I remove and re-grease pedals periodically about 6 months and this has turned a job which used to be very stressful into one which could not be more straightforward.

@larsdohmen6796 Год назад

@@KenSmith-bv4si thats quite easy.... Tap the old bearing out if ots pressfit, then press the new one in

@chones_ Год назад

This was such a clear, concise explanation of how to disassemble your headset, adjust, and then troubleshoot any issues. A truly comprehensive video. Well done, Alex.

@gcntech Год назад

Hope you found it helpful!

@morningtidefilms Год назад

I have to agree. The quickest, simplest explanation. Would love to know a little more about the expander bolt

@klarkolofsson Год назад

@@morningtidefilms Yes. For example you should tighten the expander a bit before installation, sliding it in with a small bit of pressure

@albullit Год назад

Helps to turn the bars 90deg when checking the headset for play. That way you eliminate the play in the brake pads inside the calliper. So many folk feel a knock and keep tightening when it’s brake pad play and not the bearings.

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

I usually place my fingers between the head tube and headset cover. I also check if I can rotate the spacers by hand, which shouldn't happen if there's proper preload.

@toddh4491 Год назад

This was very helpful. Headsets have changed so much since my 1980's steel frames.

@gcntech Год назад

They really have and it's sometimes hard to keep track! We're glad you found this video useful

@OldDavo1950 Год назад

You forget to mention the most important part, that when the stem is placed on the steering tube. You should have at 2mm of the stem internally above the steering tube. This allows you to put the pre load on. If the stem and top of steering tube was flush, you cannot tighten anything.

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

2 mm is too little for a handful of top caps, 3 - 5 mm is more ideal.

@davidgoon1978 Год назад

@@yonglingng5640 winspace slc disc and extralite stem doesnt go easily.. upper stem bolt are almost on the edge thus streerer tube has to be cut at precise length

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

@@davidgoon1978 I worked with one before, I forgot how close the top pinch bolt is away from the top of the stem, but there's nothing wrong with adding a 5 mm spacer up top with the steerer tube flush with the stem.

@PeteEllson5656 Год назад

Thanks for this video. Really helped me out. Your channel rocks.

@RandyASilva Год назад

Perfect explanation. The brake test was genius. Thank you!

@mahadi8488 Год назад

This is a very useful video for home enthusiast. Thanks Alex.

@fogrider4607 Год назад

Great, practical explanation. Bravo.

@gcntech Год назад

Thank you! Hope it helps!

@neilcampion5265 Год назад

Amazing Alex. These videos give a lot of people confidence to do some diy maintenance. Keep them coming.

@gcntech Год назад

Thanks Neil!

@jamesbianchi Год назад

I swear that 75% of you videos are directly related to me. First time ever took a spacer out of my bike to lower it a bit 3 days ago. No idea I wanted to tighten the cover bolt first. Will be correcting that tonight. Awesome stuff. Thanks!!

@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589 Год назад

lower it? you need to swap it to the other side of the stem, something else that Alex fails to mention. Or cut the steerer, which is waaay beyond this casual tweak.

@gcntech Год назад

Mind powers..... ooooooh!! 😵‍💫

@gavinimages Год назад

Thanks! I’ve been struggling with a tiny bit of play in my steering tube for a while now. Not a real problem just very annoying. I hadn’t been loosing my bar clamp when trying to adjust it “problem solved” :-)

@gcntech Год назад

Sounds super irritating! Glad we could help

@Sammmo51 28 дней назад

Really good video!!! 👌👌

@yannicnoack5389 Год назад

Thank you so much for this video! I have recently struggled with fork play after my local bike mechanic could also not help much. *Cannondale and other bikes equipped with FSA expanding nuts* and top caps do not have a tension screw on the top. Instead, the top cap is screwed into the expanding nut and is therefore the tension screw in itself. Hope this helps somebody. Keep up the good videos!

@g.west2372 Год назад

Also had a little clicking noise after slamming my stem... turns out... I did chech the top cap, but probably the expanding nut was not tight enough...

@gcntech Год назад

Glad you found it useful Yannic-Tim!

@demand61 Год назад

Great video to explain the workings of headsets. If I could add 1 thing that would be to check for play after your first ride. Oftentimes something in the headset will be seated and there might be some play in it.

@Bum_Chika 7 дней назад

5:43 to 5:59 Thanks for that advice. It solve my issue.

@hymen0callis Год назад

Good video on quite a basic task, which I nevertheless got wrong as a beginner a few years ago. I might add information on the various common headset standards and dimensions, bike manufacturers' recommendations on spacer height above and below the stem, and the sometimes quite time-consuming task of getting your stem aligned with your wheel, but that is more related to the stem rather than the headset (and you probably have videos on that already).

@tflspitfire Год назад

Great video. This is why i subscibed to gcn in the first place!

@gcntech Год назад

Amazing to hear! Glad you found it helpful!

@savagepro9060 Год назад

Damn! All along I thought a headset was the rider's mental attitude! Thanks Alex!

@julianmuller9567 Год назад

Thanks for the easy explanation! My headset still sounds like crap though

@ranjitrakhra8427 Год назад

An excellent tutorial reference the Headset Assembly... I had mine apart recently (only for checking it out) and was horrified to find there was no 'Crown Race' installed on the bottom of the steerer tube and that the lower bearing was sitting directly on the fork itself.. Am happy to know the set-up is fine. (the cycle is Boardman TeamC road machine).

@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589 Год назад

You don't always need a crown race seat: CF forks have it moulded in, usually.

@Relevant_Irrelevance Год назад

How to easily align the wheel, stem, and handlebars so they're all together proper?

@mmmbetter55 Год назад

Hold the front wheel between your legs, and use the front plate bolts of the stem to align the wheel precisely between them. I usually tighten down the steer-clamp bolts (on the stem) to just above finger right, so you can adjust the angle but it won't be easily knocked out of place while you finalize the position. Most bars will also have hash marks around the stem clamping area to assist in leveling them and evening them out left/right.

@stevemawer848 Год назад

Laser beam!

@klarkolofsson Год назад

If your saddle is centered, that's another hassle, you can take some string from the center back of the saddle up to the stem to center the cockpit.

@jimmytherat88 Год назад

I normally switch grid lines on my phone camera and then you can use your phone camera and the grid lines act as a straight edge

@bengt_axle Год назад

Hold the wheel at a 45 degrees (to the right or left) and line up the opening of the clamp (the crack) with the center of the tire, looking through one eye at at an angle from behind. The trailing section of the tire lines up with the crack, while the leading section (in front of the fork) will be centred between the two top bolts of the handlebar clamp. Using both these references of the stem, you should be able to line up the stem straight.

@markowsley4954 Год назад

Nice explanation on how threadless headsets work. I still use threaded headsets so this was educational.

@simonm1447 Год назад

I use bikes with both, however A head headsets are far simpler to maintain and to adjust, and offer more stiffness

@gcntech Год назад

Thanks Mark!

@stuart3744 Год назад

Do you recommend the 2 stem bolts with the heads at opposite sides, I noticed you tightened from opposite sides and daft question 2 what about quantity of grease

@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589 Год назад

You missed entirely that the No. 1 cause for loose headsets is that the loose expander plug is pulled up the steerer by overtightening and bottoming-out of the tension cap & its screw, and how to reset and tighten that down - often involving disassembly of the expander plug and clean/grease of its parts. You can't get preload if you can't tighten the tension cap screw into it. Also, a lack of clamping gap between the top of the steerer tube and the top of the top spacer (which you should pretty much always have on top of your stem, under the tension cap). So many of your maintenance videos are like this: do half a job and missing important points, which might one day come back to bite you.

@truthseeker8483 Год назад

good point

@alansheard553 Год назад

That's all fine but what if you have one of those Accros collar type ones like on my Canyon, which adds pre load from the underside. It's also a crap system too.

@maustin1965 Год назад

Great vid - what if you have a creaking in the front end - I’ve got a cervelo s3 - I’ve yesfiber gripped the handlebar and tightened to spec - still creaking - my next thought was the headset - I’ve got no free play and the handlebars move freely? Any thoughts - thanks guys!!

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

Check your hub.

@genewhalen9264 Год назад

Nice video, Alex. #AskGCNTech, what milage interval would you recommend inspecting your headset?

@Kimberly_Sparkles Год назад

Alex is back--with small scabs! These are recent--the video and the scabs!

@GCNalex Год назад

very good attention to detail there, haha

@Kimberly_Sparkles Год назад

@@GCNalex I've been trying to guess what's been in the can for a while vs, recently shot. The bandages are a dead giveaway. It's like an Encyclopedia Brown mystery.

@truthseeker8483 Год назад

I want to know how he heals so quickly?

@GCNalex Год назад

@@truthseeker8483 I'm not sure i would say 6 weeks is quick, feels like ages

@Kimberly_Sparkles Год назад

@@GCNalex seems normal. They looked deep.

@Samsonmetaphysical Год назад

I use an expander plug on alloy steerer tube too, I don't like using the star nuts. They seem to damage the inside of alloy steerer tubes.

@truthseeker8483 Год назад

good idea

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

It's just some gauging, alloy steerer tubes are more resilient, you don't have to worry about them getting crushed by a stem. The pinch bolts would snap or the threads on the stem body would strip first. But yes, they're designed not to be removable, which is indeed a pain unless your fork has a hole at the bottom for the old star nut to be punched through.

@beedroneinsta Год назад

Question I have a canyon aero. Trying to change the bearings which are stuck to the inner headset. Is there any sprays or techniques I can use to free up both bearings… left it to long need help please

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

You might need a punch and a hammer to lightly knock them out. If in doubt, best let a reputable LBS help you out.

@davegearing2707 Год назад

And what about integrated headsets? When the cables run through the steerer tube?

@klarkolofsson Год назад

When I changed my stem I didn't take stack height into account so I did get minor headset play, couldn't figure out why at first. 2mm spacer fixed the pre-load! Maybe this can be useful for someone out there.

@123moof Год назад

The goal should be to recess the top of the steerer about 3mm below the top of the stack (stem plus any spacers). It is also not a bad idea to always have at least a 3 mm spacer on top for carbon steerers so there is plenty of “meat” left of the steerer to clamp onto.

@LeesChannel Год назад

It's funny, back when I had an 80's Panasonic bike, I brought it into the shop because of derailleur issues. They told me that my headset bearings were completely shot, and the ball bearings had worn into the metal. They were quite insistent that it needed to be replaced, but I never did it. I actually liked how it felt, the handlebars gently popped into place when centered, it honestly felt so natural it was like it was designed that way. Plus, it didn't affect the performance or efficiency of the bike (unlike that derailleur issue, which they were never able to fix.)

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

A headset assembly should never feel indexed, they're right about having it replaced.

@LeesChannel Год назад

@@yonglingng5640 Some kind thief took care of that

@stevethistle7974 Год назад

any benefit to adding grease to the lower and upper bearing sets when installing if they are sealed?

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

Grease on the headset bearing seats acts as a water-resistant barrier to prevent corrosion. A headset assembly should never be installed dry.

@truthseeker8483 Год назад

I was having trouble with my head-set..the doctor put me onto a great new medication 😁

@fede1275 Год назад

I wonder why when the headset has been refitted the expander plug was left on the bench… 🤔 Maybe because the description applies to all the bikes apart from Canyon, as the one you have used in the video does not have an expander plug to support the stem clamp! You might have needed another bike to do this video 😀

@wspmjw Год назад

#GCNTECH - Howdy Mannon and the Fellas. I'm preparing to move cross country (USA) and would prefer to transport my bikes inside the moving van which I'll be packing. What's the best way to prep the bikes for this journey with my household goods? Planning to remove the pedals and configure the handlebars parallel to the top tube (90 degrees from 'normal). Thanks for the knowledge.

@whomstthouamme2155 Год назад

there are bike travel cases you can buy if your bike is really expensive, you slightly take it apart

@wspmjw Год назад

@@whomstthouamme2155 Thanks, but not looking to buy 3 bike cases and I'll be doing the loading/unloading.

@sourpatxh253 Год назад

I’ve bought a used bike with a super slammed steerer. My only option to rise it to add only about 20mm of spacer, been thinking of adding more but it will result having the steerer to be halfway in the stem. Is that ok or not advisable to do?

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

Totally not OK, don't do it, you'll kill yourself before you know it.

@thomaskuhn6541 Год назад

I've always worked with aluminum frames and steerer tubes in the past, so any headset work has included the application of grease. Is it correct with carbon frames and steerer tubes that everything is assembled dry, no grease or any other compound? Can a small application of grease to act as a moisture seal damage the carbon?

@derkreisende9335 Год назад

imo you should also grease up the area around the bearings on a carbon frame, correct me if I'm wrong!

@whatwelearned Год назад

You want grease on the fork and carbon paste on the expander bolt

@lucitribal Год назад

Can you make a video for quill stems as well?

@truthseeker8483 Год назад

convert to threadless🙂

@TheFloridaBikeVlogger Год назад

i like how he had the euro style

@ld22d57 Год назад

Hi there I keep destroying my wheel hub on my Cannodale synapse. Any advice on how to stop breaking it please.

@truthseeker8483 Год назад

lay off the Oreos

@bossg2817 Год назад

#AskGCNTech Is it possible for a bike with mechanical groupset to be setup fully integrated (all cables hidden). What could be the possible downside of doing that? And can you do that to any bike frame as long as you will use an integrated stem/handlebar?

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

It's only possible if: 1) The frameset runs integrated internal routing in the first place. 2) Said frameset is compatible with your mechanical groupset (not all mechanical groupsets are compatible with all framesets with integrated internal routing). Otherwise, don't even try.

@bengt_axle Год назад

Any benefit to replacing a stack of four 5mm spacers under the stem with one solid 20mm spacer? The logic would be that it would provide greater stiffness and reduce fore and aft flexing of the steerer as you go over bumps.

@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589 Год назад

negligible, and you would lose the ability to adjust stem height easily. The flex is merely concentrated in a smaller area.

@truthseeker8483 Год назад

Why not? Good idea but keep the 5mm spacers in case you need to make adjustments later

@rudolphpyatt4833 Год назад

How about a video on threaded headsets and quill stems?

@Aspireonthego Год назад

Can I straighten my bars by loosening and tightening the two stem bolts without touching or messing with the top cap and the preload set on the headset?

@billkallas1762 Год назад

Yes.

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

When realigning your stem, the top cap bolt can be left alone.

@charlesmansplaining Год назад

Thought for sure you would have gotten more into details of what dirty sweat corroded and rusty bearings look like so people have some idea as the reason to take this apart and do maintenance to begin with. I sweat a lot and it tends to go right in the headset. I have an expensive Chris King headset that I look after on a schedule of every two months and the amount of crud in there would kill that headset in no time if I let it go. The grease doesn't keep sweat from getting in there. sweat is very corrosive. This is also another reason why hidden cables and hoses is a bad idea because your only option is to ride the bike until your headset bearings fail.

@mavinlewis9460 Год назад

Hi I have burning qtn What type and name of headsets do modern track bikes use or have. Coa they look cool and weird

@truthseeker8483 Год назад

Completely different design and different frame design

@mavinlewis9460 Год назад

Ya but I need the name

@lukepoon9729 5 месяцев назад

my bike has as much movement as the bike in the video at 06:59 , is this normal or should i have it checked out?

@fastasasloth Год назад

ALU stem and ALU steerer on one bike, once adjusted never comes loose. Carbon or ALU stem with carbon steerer tube on other two bikes, and after every 5-10 rides I'm having to re-tighten to take the play out. Have tried assembling with/without carbon-paste, makes no difference. Is this just a "feature" of carbon steerer tubes......?😞

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

Sounds like there might not be enough preload on your bikes with a carbon steerer tube. Have you tried adding a shim or two underneath the headset cover? You might want to check the expander plug too, see if it was pulled up. I'm now riding a bike with a carbon steerer tube and an aluminium stem. The last time I lost some preload is because I barely had enough preload due to the lack of a 0.3 mm shim, so with enough bumps on a ride, it'll go loose. Now I have it installed, I'll need to see how it goes, which I don't think will happen again.

@tomahoks Год назад

As a bike fitter James states Slam Your Stem!

@adambranson1095 Год назад

Even my 2020 Scott speedster has cup and cone, no mention?

@drfegg288 Год назад

Bloody awesome video. Making the complex comprehensible to a complete moron like me means you're winning at life. Chapeau!!!

@PaulDoodes 10 дней назад

Any suggestions for what to do if (after loosening the pinch bolts) the bearings are still loose after tightening the top bolt firmly?

@AnotherMrLizard 9 дней назад

Most likely you haven’t got a gap from the top of the stem to the top of the steerer. When you take the stem off (or spacers if you have any above the stem) you should have least 3-5mm gap between the top of the stem and the top of the fork steerer that’s in the centre. If you haven’t got this gap or it’s not enough then the fork bottoms out on the topcap before it preloads the bearings. If that’s the case an extra stem spacer will do the job.

@iryankali2041 Год назад

Set my Headset top cap at 3nm is this still acceptable force on a Carbon fork?

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

There's no specific torque spec. As long as you don't feel any knocking, the spacers can't be turned by hand and the cockpit can steer freely, that's enough preload.

@chespa40 Год назад

Does it come with a kickstand

@christophervergara2962 Год назад

Everytime I'm doing anything related with the headset, specially the expander plug, is a nightmare: that evil little bastard always gets loose and falls into the fork... is there any tip or precaucion for avoiding that to happen?

@DjCringefest Год назад

stop messing with the expander then.

@truthseeker8483 Год назад

@@DjCringefest 😁😁😁😁😁😁😁

@Seamanatorrr Год назад

When I lower my stem to dial in the fit, do I need to have it cut?

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

If it's just testing the new position during the bike fit, it can be left alone. However if you're sure you'll be going lower, make sure the stem is still clamping reinforced steerer tube. Otherwise, have the steerer tube cut until the stem is able to do so.

@buyabouzouki Год назад

I find it difficult to use my brakes when I'm in the drops. I'm using Shimano 105. Any advice?

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

First things first, are your lever blades too far from your fingers? Are the STI levers set way too high on the handlebars? Is there too much upwards tilt in the handlebars? Excessive upwards tilt will render riding in the drops impossible simply because the ergonomics over there are ignored.

@barrycorney3665 Год назад

Once you think you've nailed the headset stem cap pressure and nipped up the bolts, apply the back brake and lift the front wheel with the bike standing up in front of you, bars turned 90 degrees in line with the frame, and try and rock the bars (12 and 6 o'clock) gently, it will show up any looseness...

@michaelb9664 Год назад

It would be good to use a headset that isn’t brand new perhaps for a video like this. Show us a one that’s full of grit and has seen some wet weather & dry dusty trails and had a few washes and is in need of a clean and re grease. 👍 Might be good to show how to inspect a carbon steerer tube for signs of damage from being ran with a loose headset for too long and also explain the importance of always clamping the stem where the expander tube is. Example don’t leave the steerer uncut if running the stem slammed as low as possible etc…

@RobertHopkinsArt Год назад

Question: How many hours, or miles/kilometers, or any other measurement can we use to know the bearings life-cycle? How do we determine the bearings are shot?

@mmmbetter55 Год назад

Modern headsets don't often go bad. They don't spin much and with sealed bearings, fat chance much is gonna get inside. That said, if you take the bearings out and they feel rough to spin by hand, they're easy to replace. But really, headset bearings just aren't gonna wear out.

@RobertHopkinsArt Год назад

Thanks for that explanation, Mate! I was just curious about that.

@mmmbetter55 Год назад

For other bearings, there isn't a straightforward rule- depends too much on your maintenance habits, riding conditions and so on. If you try to service them and they feel rough, replace them.

@deadly0078 Год назад

Depends on conditions of where you ride in and how much. I service my headset every 4 to 5 month. If you feel grinding in the bearing while turning then its time to replace it or them.

@mmmbetter55 Год назад

@@deadly0078 Is yours an old-school loose ball type?

@simonkos2480 Год назад

I recently just washed my disc brakes. I now have some problems with my rear brake. When I am descending my rear brake work for few seconds, then I hear some weird noise and my brakes stops working. After I release my brake for few seconds, my rear brake starts working normally. Anyone now to solve this problem?

@sooryanandanans236 Год назад

Try cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol....

@simonm1447 Год назад

On my MTB there are two ways of solving this problem with squeaking brakes - cleaning it with alcohol, sanding the pads slightly and reinstall everything - or descending a hill steep enough to get the brakes near 230 to 250 ° C (colour of the rotor: yellow to brown, blue (300°C) is not necessary) and the squeaking is gone Method 2 makes more fun

@donwinston Год назад

Threaded vs. unthreaded head set? Are threaded head sets an old design and not used anymore? I've a 9 year old Cannondale Synapse. No matter how tight I screw the top cap the load on the bearing doesn't increase for some reason. The steering does not get "sticky" and it still makes creaking sounds when I ride out of the saddle or ride over sharp bumps. Sounds like it is falling apart. I hate it.

@keithreed5009 Год назад

It sounds as if the top cap is hitting the steerer tube, try adding a thin spacer or shorten the steerer tube by 1.0mm

@chris1275cc Год назад

If its an aluminium steerer tube Check that the middle part the star-nut is not stripped or spinning, (if it is bash it down out of the way or drill it out/ remove it and install a new one or an expander if you like) If its carbon check the expander plug is not loose and not just being pulled up the steerer. Also if it is a plug check that there is an air gap/space between the top of the plug and the bottom of the top cap of about 3-4mm if not all you are doing is squashing the top cap to the the top of the expander and not pre-loading it. You can check both plug issues by dropping a spacer on top of your stem and trying to set the pre load, if the creaks/movement go away then there wasn't sufficient gap, you can either cut 3-4mm off the steerer or put a short spacer on top. It the issue remains remove the top cap and spacer and you will be able to see if the expander has been pulled up, in which case fiber grip the plug and re-install to torque spec.

@chris1275cc Год назад

Additional: Inspect the steerer especially around the bearing seats. The "ring of death" where the races bite/wear into the steerer tube is something that can cause this issue (even on aluminium ones).

@Pesmog Год назад

In addition to the other comments here, also make sure you are doing the final tighten on the ground as shown in the video and not on the bike stand. If necessary have someone pushing down on the handlebars so that the steerer and bearings are compressed with a real world load when you tighten the screw. 👍 I always re-check it after a few miles riding as that allows everything to bed in properly.

@toweringtrio Год назад

I could still see some rocking when he was checking the last time. Not enough torque on that bolt or that race on the frame is off by a mile.

@tomrachellesfirstdance7843 Год назад

Was easy...now integrated cockpits have made this a real pain

@gcntech Год назад

They can complicate things 😅

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

Only people who've worked on bikes are able to say this.

@pablolopez584 Год назад

Does it make any sense applying carbon paste to the expander bolt? #AskGCNTech

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

The bolt itself, never makes sense. But if it's the expander plug's outer wall you're talking about, it does help as some of them just won't grab the steerer tube well on their own.

@garys628 Год назад

would you be packing a load of grease in there as well ??

@MrTuxy Год назад

I do, water repellent grease is a good idea if you live somewhere where it frequently rains.

@ESDavey Год назад

Smear grease I suggest

@Elbrunosh Год назад

Yes!!!

@jackcockle4796 Год назад

Have you (anyone reading the comments) ever thought about, or come across a cool mod that replaces the spacers? Like if you wanted to drop the bars down the steering tube, thus resulting in more of the tube being above the stem, without having to cut the steering tube and without just leaving the spacers above the stem, making the headset look stupid. For example, a part that reaches over the stem and adds more mounting space infront of the handlebars? Just curious to see what people have come up with.

@kodiakrider7612 Год назад

No grease?

@cube730 Год назад

So i can take out as many spacers as i want?

@billkallas1762 Год назад

It depends on your flexibility. Until you are sure that you can ride with a lower stem, you can just move the spacers to be on top of your stem, instead of below it. After you are positive you can live with a lower stem, you can remove those spacers and cut the stem. (once you do that, there is no going back) Just in case I become less flexible, I kept a 2mm spacer above the stem. Some people keep a 5mm spacer there.

@cube730 Год назад

@@billkallas1762 thanks i was wondering what you do with the "rest" of the stem but cutting makes sense. Good idea ill try to ride lower with the spacer above to see how it goes :)

@1afterthep Месяц назад

I still don't know why there is never any sort of mark on the stem according to which you can align your stem and bar.

@everjit 2 месяца назад

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wTenc062qoI.html can see little play in HeadCap Is this fine? same with my cap. If I tighten the extender screw further then steering starts showing noticeable resistance. Please help

@LG-lt6di Год назад

I had to go to my local bike shop😅🤣😂

@123moof Год назад

Bought a road bike built by someone who managed to be almost as bad of a mechanic as I am. He had a lot of spacers, but ultimately the steerer tube was a tiny smidge too long for the number of spacers, so the top-cap hit the steerer before the bearing got a proper pre-load. Replacing one small spacer with one that was another 1mm thicker solved the slight movement. I will chop off the chimney soon, once the fit is finalized.

@deadly0078 Год назад

I cant comment lol because im a mechanic myself.

@cindycindy4536 11 месяцев назад

No issues with assembly for me ru-vid.comUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L but I could see where some might benefit from using an experienced bike assembler/mechanic. I'm an older rider starting back after a 10 year break. This bike exceeds my capabilities and has been easy to get comfortable riding. I'm mostly on easy trails with almost no street riding and have not been disappointed with the performance of the bike. My fitness level is far below what I previously rode with and because of that the mileage is going on the bike slowly. While I'm losing weight slowly, the bike seems to tolerate my 220 pounds just fine. The bike has been used by several family members ranging from 5'5" - 5'9".

@JoelSzymczyk Год назад

there are days when I really miss cups, cones, loose ball bearings, and grease.

@truthseeker8483 Год назад

loose ball bearings flying across the floor and grease on your hands...😁😁😁😁.

@stevemawer848 Год назад

Not exactly everything we need to know about headsets - what about us old school riders with threaded steerers and quill stems?

@guchypoo Год назад

Go to park tools page..they have everything

@billkallas1762 Год назад

You can find info on other RU-vid channels.

@richardbridges7664 Год назад

Maybe qualify the video title with unthreaded?

@truthseeker8483 Год назад

convert to a threadless fork and be happy

@wilsonyg Год назад

Straighten up the handlebar is the hardest part 😣

@simonm1447 Год назад

Just line up the wheel with the frame, and measure the distance from both ends of the bars to the seat tube. If it's the same length your bar is perfectly aligned

@danielsekera3525 Год назад

around the 7 minute mark after the second adjustment you can literally SEE there is still too much play in that headset

@xandrovangoethem4081 Год назад

but why is a headset squicking ?

@truthseeker8483 Год назад

squicking....sounds bad 😁

@HShango Год назад

When I see a road bike that costs £2k and up honestly that is a ridiculous price tag, if it was a car I get it, bit a bike...🤨, Yes I'm a cyclist, people will agree to disagree on that price topic but either way the prices of road bikes on the higher end is insane

@reubensteel4632 Год назад

Please don’t try to manual pre load a carbon steerer by hand it’s to easy to damage the steerer always use a torque wrench and if it’s still lose then check the bearings

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

There's no specific torque spec for headset preload. Once there's no knocking and steering is still smooth, proper preload has been achieved.

@reubensteel4632 Год назад

@@yonglingng5640 all my carbon steerers have max torque figures that can be applied so I don’t know where you get the idea they don’t. Are you buying no name open mould from Ali ?

@yonglingng5640 Год назад

@@reubensteel4632 No, I know I don't even hit 3 Nm on top cap bolts. This bolt doesn't even need a lot of torque as far as I remember. Never have I once damaged a carbon steerer tube.