The floating disc was designed for road racing where the heat would deform the disc and warp. When cooled the warp would go away. The small “disc” would heat faster but also cool faster. There is also a weight saving with an Al. carrier. There is a small gain with alignment with the pads that gives a crisper initial bite but the brake caliper and hydraulic pistons are made to float and adjust well for any alignment issues. We like them in hard Endure for easier Dead stop hopping the rear wheel around. The biggest gain is felt under hard “Lots of heat” brake feel without lever fluctuations. Cons, debris gets into pins and wear.
I like playing in the rocks and dirt, but I really miss road racing. The stock stuff on my husky fe350 seems ok ish. If I were to supermoto it, all of the brake stuff is getting upgraded.
Great video. If the front end does move a bit with the front brake locked (as you describe it in the video; feels like loose head bearings), does that mean the floating rotor needs to be replaced/rebuilt?
Hi there, I wonder if the floating brake rotor would help in the braking performance on the new "23 Husky TX300 with the underwhelming performance of the braktec front brakes?
Not sure it would make it better. Maybe more consistent but the best thing you can do is ditch the braketec junk. Which is dumb since it was a very expensive bike.
Morgan, opinion on a 65mm chain tension set for the new bikes. I think owner manual is 58-63mm. Lot of discussion on our favorite forums for the 65 setting
Oh man, it really doesn't matter all that much. Just make sure that no matter where you are in the travel of the bike that it doesn't get tight. I run mine a little on the loose side
Looks great Morgan, do you have the brand reference for the disc (got my new GASGAS EC300 2023, I think this would match your KTM, but I will cross check it if your model matches mine of course) and what would you recommend as front disc protection knowing that I ride mostly in very muddy terrain/trails. All the best and keep going with your awesome videos, happy you could solve your hacking issue, Thierry
@@highlandcycles Many thanks Morgan, I will check that on their site ( sorry I missed match the buttons and I inadvertently pushed a dislike, please disregard the dislike, your channel is great and it is nice of you to help all of us with your experience and advices)
All good until the first time(won't take long) I sink a "floating" rotor in muddy New England water, the fine grit will get in those buttons, then it'll magically become an expensive fixed rotor....
KTM undersizes their rotors which is a bummer especially on bug 4T’s and loaded up riding. 280 front and 240 rear is what they should spec IMO. Larger diameter makes the biggest diff
I disagree - its not about tolerances to the middle, because the caliper floats when maintained properly. Always check the float-bolt is moving freely. Keep the bolts free of rust and dirt. Grease the bolts, but use a proper grease and use very little. Normal grease lets the rubber-bellows swell as they are resistant to brake fluid but not to mineral oil based grease. This maintainance will give you constant brake feel also on older bikes with old float components. The advantage of floating rotor lies in different cause. They can adjust for tweak in the system. Meaning the brake pads are not always parallel to the rotor due to bending of axle and fork under high brake load. I like floating rotors, they give slightly better feel and control. (Nice to have)
The caliper floats for sure but I think the combination is really where it’s at. Both floating provides a solid, consistent brake. A lot of what I talked about came directly from Galfer’a site so I have to believe it’s also true.
@@highlandcycles this may be - the floating caliper is always a bit hindered by friction and not 100% - the floating disc reduces all kinds of misalignment. I like your channel a lot. Great you survived beeing hacked 🙂
