Thanks for the bit about differential sharpening - have never tried doing this before and will give it a whirl next time one of my knives needs touching up.
@@Ilikeitlikethis yes because the difference between abrasive size gets exponentially smaller and smaller the higher in grit you go. 3000 is already a borderline finishing/polishing grit. most 3k stones will only generate extremely small burrs.
Interesting - I might try this - I usually use 6000 - 10000 grit on both sides. I've found some of the 10000 grit sharpened knives can glide a bit on tomato or capsicum, so doing one side at (say) 4000 or even 1000 sounds like a good test!
Great video. I’m an extreme knife nerd and rarely learn anything with RU-vid knife videos specially on sharpening, but I hadn’t heard of differential sharpening. That’s a good one. Y’all seem like such a cool group at knife wear carry on.!
Ahhh. This video is what I've been waiting for but didn't know it lol the geek version haha -the nerdy version which means going into more detail for more understanding. and more appreciation of the topic.
My favourite Japanese knife is a Tanaka blue 2 damascus gyuto. It has curved geometry on the right side and flat on the left - *but* is not a single bevel as the secondary cutting bevel is 10-15 degrees on each side. Amazing performance and looks cool too!
About 5yrs ago, I went to the Nella commercial outlet and sifted through their bins of used knives. Some are basically new, and some are in the last stages on their lives as 80% of the blade has been sharpened away. I picked the 6 best knives that had most of their blades left and I made sure there was 3 different colored handles...so 2 of each color. Red handles are sharpened to about 500 grit only and took about 20mins each on a 250 stone and another 5 mins on the 500 stone. The green handle ones I sharpen to about 2000 and took much longer to get there, as I has to use the 1000 stone and my 2000 stone. Lastly are my 2 brown handle knives. These two knives I spent about 1-2hrs each to condition them into shape and I sharpen them down to 30000. So it was all the same stones as per the prior knives, then 4k, then 8k, then 12k then 16k and lastly 30k. Once you invest the initial HUGE effort to get them into shape, then its a pretty easy maintenance mode going forward. I use the knife I need based on how sharp it is, just like you stated. Why 2 sets? Because one is at my house and the other is at my cottage. All my stones are the Shapton glass stones. As it turns out, I used the 30k knifes about 95% of the time, oddly enough. The knives only cost $7 each. The stones cost a lot of money, but they'll last a lifetime. just my solution. cheers.
out of my blue supers, blue 2's, white 2's + white 3 and other alloys my white 1 yanagi is the absolute sharpest. Looking forward to trying out a blue 1 forged by a sakai master soon!
Hi There! My sharpest knife is an Osamu-San from Yoshida Homono, ZDP-189 Bunka 190mm. My second sharpest is from Knife Wear, a Hatsukokoro Inazuma AS Bunka 165mm. I have read about differential sharpening on several different sites, but haven’t tried it yet, but it is on my to do list. Thanks for reminding me. Very appropriate video, I really enjoyed it! Thanks!!..
If you can hypothetically make a knife so sharp the atoms on the blade made the edge a PERFECT triangle shape it would shatter since the hypothetical edge would be one atom thick
Think the grainy-ness helps have texture to it. I have a shibata and it doesnt really have a major taper, very flat and semi polish with a bit of grain marks to attempt to make it less sticky. But overall it sharp but the food release on it is super sticky and the grippiness is lacking for things like tomatos. So id likely do the combination of grits mentioned in the video 😊
Sweet can you please ad the knife name titles n the vid as you’re speaking about them so I can search which one to order on the site easily and links would be awesome 🙏👍
It's a crime that the Takamura SG-2 knives were not included. They are sharper than even the Shibatas. I didn't think it was possible, but it is. They're what I consider "too sharp" to the point where you have to be super careful with them or they will chip. I think the bevel on those things is like 10 or 11 degrees.
I know this is going way dorky, but I would love to know the carbon content of these Japanese steels so I could get a grasp on how they compare to American steel.
Hello, i just want to ask information, ahm i got a shapton naoru for flattening stone. Can i flat naniwa chosera in shapton naoru? I need to use powder medium and fine depends on the grit right? Thank youuu
You mix some concepts that have nothing to do with each other. Sharpness decays quite quickly on every knife, even on hard knives. Cutting ability is based on the geometry of the primary bevel and changes only very slowly when the knife gets sharpened. The steel and hardness has a big influence on edge holding not on the sharpness itself. I understand that this is more or less just a marketing exercise for the nice knives that you are showing but communicating proper knife knowleage would suit the video even better. A book Knife Engineering by Larrin Thomas is a compact and reliable source of information if you want to learn more.
