What Men REALLY Wore in the 1900s (1900-1909)

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Let's go back in time and see what men really wore during the 1900s: gentl.mn/what-men-wore-1900s
#1900s #menswear #notsponsored
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00:00 1900s Menswear Introduction
01:56 Hats:
→ One-piece flat cap
→ Bowler hat
→ Homburg hat
→ Panama hat
→ Top hat
06:20 Hair & Facial Hair
Some men simply cut their hair short, and others used ‘Hair Oil’ to flatten or style their hair.
A mustache, rolled with wax, was in vogue. Smaller beards could also be stylish. Large beards were reserved for older gentlemen and a clean-shaven face was prized for a youthful appearance.
07:44 Shirts
Shirts came in an array of different colors and patterns. Starched collars were very popular. Winged and standing collars were worn alongside rounded club collars and squared-off collars.
09:32 Ties
Neckties were much shorter as waistcoats were cut higher. Stick pins were worn in ties to keep them in place, and to add a bit of sparkle to the ensemble.
10:39 Odd Jackets & Suits
In the 1900s the morning coat started to take over from the frock coat, but younger men were stepping away from these varying jacket types. The lounge jacket was quickly gaining popularity.
14:11 Waistcoats or Vests
They are more commonly single-breasted and had 5 buttons. Detachable buttons and double-breasted waistcoats were also popular.
14:56 Trousers
The 1900s saw narrow ‘drainpipe’ trousers as the norm. Trousers typically had fishtails at the back and were worn with suspenders. However, this was the decade when American tailoring began to use belt loops.
16:14 Shoes & Boots
There was so much choice when it came to boots. You’d also find some low-cut shoes. Shoes like the Oxford became popular in this era as they were more casual.
18:40 Overcoats
It’s a misconception that only single-breasted jackets were worn, as double-breasted coats were very popular at the time. Fur shawl collars and velvet collars were a common sight.
20:31 Accessories
Pocket watches, with elaborate chains and fobs, would show a man’s class, sophistication & style. Walking sticks and canes were used. The common cufflink style was a solid gold or silver chain link. Men could be found wearing a variety of eyewear.
21:55 Occasional Wear
Well-to-do gentlemen would have owned much larger wardrobes with clothing intended for specific purposes such as evening wear or sporting clothes.
23:33 Outfit Rundown

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Опубликовано:

18 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 148

@piccalillipit9211 Год назад

*I MAKE BESPOKE HISTORICAL MENS SUITS FROM THIS PERIOD* someone asked me some really interesting question - so Ive copied the answer here A) *"how did men actually get their clothes back then"* - there was a massive shift between 1900 and 1930. In 1900 basically everything was tailor made, made at home by your wife, knitted by your wife or a friend. Working people tended to buy second hand or inherit clothes. In remote towns it was almost all home made, if you needed a suit you would travel to a city. Clothing would go through several lifetimes of use and be altered many time. By 1930 most clothing was factory manufactured and ordered from magazines and local stores department stores were popping up. Even the tailors were starting to NOT be tailors. They had the fabric, they cut the pattern and then sent it off to a finishing factory where it was constructed on a production line. There were huge changes in this period, but mostly thing were still made “to order” and you had a lot of choice of cuff styles etc. B) *“how accurately can a modern tailor recreate the suits of yesterday?”* - again this is complicated. There are two sides to this 1) cutting a historical pattern 2) making a historical garment. You are no doubt aware of “Peaky Blinders” and the amazing suits they have - the reason they looks SO good and so much different to modern suits is the company bought genuine vintage bolts of cloth and had them constructed in the traditional way. This is what I do most of the time. Its incredibly difficult and labour intensive, you might have 15 hours finding cloth…! Then it takes me 120 hours for a 3 piece suit to draft make it and 5 hours to draft it - I'm a it slow at drafting. So that is easily 140 hours and that is partly machine stitched [but machine stitching is no quicker actually…] But you cant always get vintage cloth so you have to use lighter cloth made on an “electronic” loom and that is just not as tightly woven so even if you get 12oz cloth it does not fall and drape like cloth from 1920. So if I'm using modern cloth I back every panel of the jacket with medium weight canvas to give the “heft” So can a modern tailor make a 1930’s suit, they can certainly CUT a 1930’s suit, but it wont BE a 1930’s suit and they will likely want to use fusible interfacing instead of hand stitching It will have the LOOK of a 1930’s suit to the untrained eye, and that is probably enough, but it wont FEEL like a 1930’s suit. My jackets need “wearing in”, there is so much linen canvas and structure to them you need to wear them for a few days for your body heat to fully mould the jacket to your body. But remember a suit jacket made in 1900 - 1930 was intended to last 40 years of regular wear. And that's the difference. A modern construction intended to last 5 years wont look and fell like something intended to last 40 years. In 1940, when suits had gotten a lot cheaper, a suit was still about 10-12% of a business mans annual salary. C) *“how much would it cost to get a made to measure suit? I really want a flannel suit in a Ivy meets 30s”* You can probably get this made by a local tailor for $1500 - $2000. There are tailors in New York that travel [see Kirby Alison channel for cost of tailors] that will do you a genuinely good bespoke suit from $3k. I don't usually make for “the public”. I try to keep this as a semi professional hobby. The first obvious problem is the cloth, it might take me 2 years to get vintage cloth you like… Even modern fabric of the quality we want can be difficult at a sensible price. Then there is the 140 hors of work. I'm an author, I have to actually do other work, so It may take anything from a month to three months and I don't know when I start when I will finish. Even at $15 an hour its $2,100+ cloth and shipping and taxes. That's said I get SO MANY requests that I have started to seriously think about setting up a small company, getting seamstresses to do different jobs - we have a lot of seamstresses in this city. OK - I hope this was helpful :-D

@krunoslavkovacec1842 Год назад

Can we see your work somewhere online?

@piccalillipit9211 Год назад

@@krunoslavkovacec1842 - I took my Instagram down as I was inundated endlessly with people wanting me to quote for work. So at the moment no. I might upload some stills to youtube this week. If you are a regular to this channel ill announce it in the comments.

@krunoslavkovacec1842 Год назад

@@piccalillipit9211 I'm a regular and I'll gladly check it out. Not a lot of content like that out there .

@piccalillipit9211 Год назад

@@krunoslavkovacec1842 - It seems super snobby that I dont want work. But I live in Bulgaria. The logistics alone of sending a suit backwards and forwards for fittings and adjustments, clearing customs every time so the customer does not pay import duty on every trip. Ive done that maths and its either a full time business or I don't do it at all. But it appears no one offers bespoke historical suits for men of the 1900-1930 period so I get inundated with endless requests from very good meaning people, that I have to say "go away" to very politely. Ill try and get some picture uploaded to RU-vid in the next few days.

@krunoslavkovacec1842 Год назад

@@piccalillipit9211 It's great that there is such nice artisanship/craftsmanship present in the Balkans. Pozdravi iz Hrvatske.

@Kaiser_behind_the_slaughter 5 месяцев назад

We totally need 1890s...

@williamherman778 Год назад

5 years ago this channel taught me how to tie a full Windsor knot and a bow tie, now I'm expanding my knowledge of classic menswear and picking up style tips as well as the nuances of etiquette. I can't begin to express my gratitude for this channels existence.

@theelegantcouplesbookrevie8734 Год назад

As a returning customer of Fort Belvedere I would love to see items evoking the decadent and romantic periods of Edwardian men's dress.

@krunoslavkovacec1842 Год назад

Short neckties, spats, perhaps even period accurate hats and waistcoats. Would be great.

@squirrelsquirellian2829 Год назад

I managed to by some miracle find a genuine early 1900's frock that fits me and it's just the best. Just need a purple waistcoat to become a modern Robert E.O Speedwagon.

@vonvildenschwert3045 Год назад

Yes. There is quite many more formal originals from 1900s. I have a couple of original garments from this period too. And my size is EU 54.

@wordbearer8202 Год назад

I really enjoy your commentary on more working class fashion, would love to see more focused videos

@samxk9319 Год назад

My Father has a top had from the end of the 19th century (around 1890) which is made from seal skin! It is in near perfect condition and still has a beautiful sheen to it!

@JosephRussellStapleton Год назад

Wow!

@MrMeme-jh4ez Год назад

i always love learning about classic men's wear

@gentlemansgazette Год назад

Glad you enjoyed it! What was the most interesting thing you learned from this video?

@MrMeme-jh4ez Год назад

@@gentlemansgazette definitely the change in hats

@brucetidwell7715 Год назад

It takes about 20-25 minutes to get dressed in the morning depending on how long I spend matching my shirt, braces, and bow tie, and how fiddly the tie decides to be that morning.

@donjohngotti Год назад

How I missed that era 😞

@jobmclaren4150 Год назад

I was hoping you would go on fir hours about evening wear. If possible please do a video on the history of evening wear and thr evolution of it all!!! This outfit run-down is by far my favorite, simply superb!! A top 10 outfit run-down by all the guys would be another great video idea and can help draw inspiration!!! Love it!!!

@gentlemansgazette Год назад

Thank you for the suggestions! We do have some more black tie content coming out soon - stay tuned!

@coffeepot3123 Год назад

I'm just glad we have records of these clothes for whenever we decide to re-spark men's fashion on a larger scale. The business casual i see today makes me want to die, things need to change and it starts with us the consumer.

@tommoncrieff1154 Год назад

Great video, really enjoyed it. Wikipedia says the Panama Hat is not so-named because of Teddy Roosevelt’s visit. It was called a Panama Hat from at least 1826 because it was shipped worldwide from the Panama Isthmus.

@gentlemansgazette Год назад

Thanks for the insight, Tom! - Preston

@zachpower2192 Год назад

I appreciate the Sidney Paget illustration of Holmes thrown in there!

@greenman4946 7 месяцев назад

It’s from ”The Blue Carbuncle”, I believe.

@artawhirler Год назад

I love this series! Thanks for doing another one!

@valariebrown3768 Год назад

I work in a public arts Magnet academy, and we have two men on staff who wear tradition men's pieces for their work as teachers. One has a collection of waistcoats, ties, and hats, the other wears a tie with a dress shirt nearly every day. 'Tis a beautiful sight to see.

@SilverJ56 Год назад

My grandfather came to America in 1902 ----- penny less. In 1908 or 1909 he had become successful enough in the city of Chicago to buy a new suit and a motorcycle! He wrecked the motorcycle and tore the knees out of his new suit pants minutes after buying the motorcycle. He gave the motorcycle away to a bystander and walked away. My dad who was born in 1909 related this story to me and thought it was an Indian motorcycle. Thanks for adding a picture in my mind of the style of suit he might have been wearing! My grandfather's name was John Schneider!!😁👍

@brucetidwell7715 Год назад

How sad.

@xoxnanxoxful Год назад

Very informative and helpful in regards to a school project with specific presentations requirements. Thank you very much.

@jec1ny Год назад

Great video. One accessory not mentioned but popular at the time among the well off were spats.

@themoderndandy713 Год назад

Here's a fun fact for you: spats were originally made for men who couldn't afford proper button boots with a contrasting white insert. They aren't quite as aristocratic as some may think!

@kennethjohnson6141 Год назад

Extraordinary style Sven. Loved the video

@danielmobley1 10 месяцев назад

Take your hat off while you’re indoors, Mister Schneider! 😱 This bugged me throughout the entire video but some really good info! Love the channel 😁

@plaguebunnyproductions Год назад

It's a coincidence you made this video as I had just finished rewatching the Sherlock Holmes series by Granada, it's funny because a subtle detail of the series (which is supposed to take place from the 1880s-1901) you can notice how the fashion dose change though out

@boztos6025 Год назад

Loved that-Jeremy Brett was the definitive Holmes.

@gentlemansgazette Год назад

Excellent! Do you have favourite Sherlock Holmes "case"?

@Frasesdepositividad Год назад

I was thinking where was the 1900s one and here it is finally

@sherrycatanese4312 Год назад

I love your content & the finale when you go into what your wearing. A nicer street for this one would have made you not look as out of place☺️Cheers!

@randomdodles876 8 месяцев назад

Very informative as someone who wears historical fashion everday now and i especially have a soft spot for the edwardian era

@FlameG102 Год назад

I personally like higher collars. But it's almost impossible to find these days unless you are buying vintage detachable collars etc. It's a shame. until you've gotten into classic menswear, and tried to buy online, you will never realize just how *limited* options are today. Even at typically "obvious" places, like a say, Brooks brothers, or Men's Wearhouse. You will find a lot of what's currently in style, not a lot of "normal". And if you do, you can be sure not in your size. let me tell you about trying to find pants with a more classic, high rise. Almost every single example i find, even from a nice place like Peter Christian, have a "hidden expandable waistband", because it's painfully clear that such pants are mainly aimed at old men with guts.

@machoprotegido5607 Год назад

I totally feel you. I have my extra high waisted pants made by a tailor in Mexico. Bad quality but at least it's closer to what I want.

@insertnamehere001 Год назад

Try living outside a major country, practically impossible to buy unless you want to pay expensive shipping or just happen upon one whilst thrift shopping.

@montybynum Год назад

I’ve honestly been looking for classic 40’s/50’s high rise swim trunks too

@thomasmaresh5264 Год назад

Lol "old men with guts."

@bruceleehace20anos17 Год назад

@@machoprotegido5607 It's a pity, in Mexico bespoke clothing is very cheap compared to first world countries; but there is also the risk that not all tailors are good; This is partly because they have learned methods that allow them to make garments faster and thus be able to sell them at a low price and thus be able to survive, since not everyone is willing to pay a quality garment. But there are also very good tailors up there on Savile Row, you just have to know how to search. I decided to learn tailoring, since I didn't like the way several tailors work here, thank God my teacher and grandfather learned at a time when standards were very high. I hope and if he comes again he can find a place where everything is better, even the high quality clothes here are cheaper than some of poor quality in the USA or Europe. Excuse me if what I write is not so congruent, I don't know much English.

@alexcarter2461 Год назад

One thing I really love about cinch back trousers is you can reposition the I Cinch to get more pull out of the waist, I'm a 36 inch waist and can tailor fit size 44 trousers, looser fit and for more physical labour

@edwardhunter3647 11 месяцев назад

Thanks,I had a tailor wardrobe,very ,very nice

@sonnycorleone3251 Год назад

Gentlemans Gazette, Love your channel guys. I prefer the fedora hat and have some. But the Homburg hat,derby and straw hats are nice as well! Laurence Olivier and Edward G. Robinson wore the homburg hat pretty often in Hollywood's golden age!

@raul_e Год назад

Maybe in the future you could do a video about top hats. You have covered all type of modern hats except them.

@truthreigns7 Год назад

AWESOME!!!! Where can a person purchase these types of clothes?

@Napoleonvanderbilt Год назад

As a historical writer and menswear enthusiast, I really like the series, but Id love to see the same type of video, but just a couple decades earlier, such as what mean really wore in the 1870s.

@viictor1309 Год назад

Amazing content as usual, now we claim a video on late Victorian (1880s-90s) menswear please

@michaelkores6860 Год назад

I demand every decade back to "What did man wear in 0000-0010?"

@bruceleehace20anos17 Год назад

Excellent video, now only all the decades from the fifteenth century are missing

@mikaeloverby Год назад

Would love to see a "worth it" episode of Jacob Cohen jeans. Personally I use them but would love to hear you opinion of them. As always, good content.

@Phisherman86 Год назад

Meh for them. I think their cuts aren’t flattering and their denim isn’t the best Japanese versions. They are made for rich Russians and Bulgarians.

@edgaraquino2324 Год назад

A most interesting video, thanks! I have a walking stick like yours which was my late father's....I had seen it in another video you made a while ago...I asked this same question, but never received a reply....it has "WS" on the "collar" of the stick, the head & tip is in solid brass...could you give me some information as to its origins? I have looked, but I have not found any info...Hope you can help...thanks! btw, I believe the video is "classic, not costumey"...

@king_charles Год назад

can you please make a video about what men wore in the 1890s?

@krunoslavkovacec1842 Год назад

Imagine the outfit he would wear for that.

@viictor1309 Год назад

God, please

@invertedghostgames9899 Год назад

If you're going to continue this, I can't wait to see the 1920's Era video! I've seen old photos, and I'm sure a lot of people have seen different pieces of art from that Era, but I wanna know what was really worn so I can incorporate it myself. Bring back the Roaring 20's! In a good way, not a bad way like the current 20's are...

@spaceunicorn941 Год назад

They already did

@armannehal8568 Год назад

They already did

@invertedghostgames9899 Год назад

Can one of the two of you link it? I can't find it.

@spaceunicorn941 Год назад

@@invertedghostgames9899 You can also check the other era on their playlist

@gentlemansgazette Год назад

Just in case you didn't already find it! www.gentlemansgazette.com/what-men-wore-1920s/?

@bankerduck4925 Год назад

Ah, perfect! A continuation to "What Men Really Wore" I was hoping for something like this!!!

@kungen9164 Год назад

Jumping from menswear in the 1960's to the 1900's, I see you are dreading the upload of the 1970's episode.

@boltthrower3215 Год назад

I‘ve watched the 1997 movie Oscar Wilde…a movie about Oscar Wilde. Their clothing they chose is IMHO gorgeous…The timeline is set in the later 1800s. Perhaps you can check the suits of this period and from this movie out?

@skylimitua Год назад

What is your opinion on Greek fisherman caps?

@jonathanturner1581 Год назад

Where did you get your waist coat???

@dakotarayprice Год назад

I got bespoke frock coat one black and one nevy Blue

@yankeetown3739 Год назад

The West Point “dress gray” (gray tunic with high black collar) and the “full dress” (fancy gray with three rows of brass buttons) uniforms use detachable collars and cuffs. Easy to clean and HEAVY starch…

@victorokpe6484 Год назад

Everyone i get a notification from your channel I learn a thing or two about fashion... Ps: I'm way too broke to dress this classy

@gentlemansgazette Год назад

Have you seen our tips on budget dressing? www.gentlemansgazette.com/gentleman-dress-suit-budget-15-tips-guide/?

@zaco-km3su Год назад

Your outfit resembled a morning suit.

@user-cc7cm6kt3g Год назад

Super

@blakemcnamara9105 Год назад

I thought you did this one already.

@MondoCosseri Год назад

Mr. Schneider, this is an outstanding history video! If you haven't already done so, perhaps you can propose to the Terra X series ZDF creators to reproduce this and other of your videos in German (your native language), similar to what Mr. Mirko Drotschmann has been doing for Terra X

@DerDrako Год назад

What a great idea! I would appreciate that too.

@cmbaz1140 Год назад

Wer schaut denn heute noch ZDF? Nein...das wäre eine Verschwendung von Zeit und Geld.

@cmbaz1140 Год назад

@Peterov GEZ ist der zweitgrößte scam in Deutschland...

@didamnesia3575 Год назад

Do not give a house tour like some are suggesting. Thieves and robbers are everywhere.

@themoderndandy713 Год назад

So long as he's careful about not showing the exterior, it should be fine. With that said, I've seen a RU-vid video about a particularly obnoxious and popular family vlogging channel who flexed their massive mansion to their audience and proceeded to have to move because their fans easily figured out where they live. Not smart...

@neinja66469 11 месяцев назад

@@themoderndandy713and now I hope you see why house tours are risky endeavors for RU-vidrs

@You-TubeUser2836 11 месяцев назад

How sad are you to waste your time to find someone’s house?

@neinja66469 11 месяцев назад

@@You-TubeUser2836 some people got "nothing to lose" so somebody might have the idea Talking them down certainly wouldn't work

@didamnesia3575 11 месяцев назад

@isaiahzx you do know that criminals rob houses, right?

@TheAyeAye1 Год назад

Real Panama hats remain the best headgear in hot areas.

@afonya553 Год назад

1:29 EEra😂

@y11971alex Год назад

I think your 1900s outfit looks very simliar to your 1910s outfit XD

@pollitoweihs Год назад

Look forward to getting the 1970s episode over with so we could get to the 1980s. It's a fascinating decade that takes from the Golden Age in many ways

@stealthysam7761 Год назад

Are y’all going to make a episode on 1970s menswear

@yurikoshokugan4395 Год назад

I'm a fujjoshi and i love men in suits

@natmorse-noland9133 Год назад

Your comment about people not smiling because of long exposure times is actually a common misconception! By the 1900s cameras were advanced enough that exposure times were pretty close to what they are today. People didn't smile simply because it wasn't the custom yet.

@themoderndandy713 Год назад

Many men, me included, just look better when not smiling. Smiling could make someone look dorkier. When I smile with my teeth, I look like a buffoon! At least for me personally, I feel like men usually look better with a neutral expression, and women are about 50/50. Maybe that's just me.

@themoderndandy713 Год назад

I say that despite usually smiling in my Instagram, so take that as you will, I guess.

@brucetidwell7715 Год назад

Studio photographs were still expensive and people thought of them as portraits. Even today people don't generally have their portrait painted with a grin on their face. It is probably not true but I have read that grinning in photographs became a thing in the mid twentieth century as dental work improved and showing off your perfect teeth was a subtle mark of affluence.

@howler1579 Год назад

You would be right. Look up pictures of Edwardian actresses, hundreds of them are seen smiling. Particularly the actress Gertie Millar, seen smiling in hundreds of portraits. More interestingly, actresses from the 1870s - 1890s are seen smiling/smirking, Maud Branscombe, Sarah Bernhardt and Ellen Terry to name a few.

@lucindasweden5778 Год назад

Magic hats can there be something in it or beneath, hav my thinking cap on, 😃anyway its uplifting to hear history , why and where it first appered,thanks, it seems that the poor immitates (as they always does) the rich, and the rich nowadays copy the poors, .............

@themoderndandy713 Год назад

Not a magical expert here, but from what I've heard from Penn and Teller, the rabbit is usually stored in the suit coat in a special sort of bag, and when the magician places the top hat over his coat, there's a very quick transfer. Of course, magic is only half performance - the other half is invention and technology! There may be many ways of pulling off this trick. The rich do indeed seem to want to copy the working class. It's only a halfsies thing, though. They still want to show off their fashion brands and labels, it's just that they want to somehow look poor while doing so. It's their choice, of course, but it's just odd that there was such a huge social change from wanting to look aristocratic to wanting to look like an overpaid farmer or something.

@lucindasweden5778 Год назад

Thanks Modern Dandy for your long reply,now I know a little moore how magics done, a sertain painting comes to mind called the Dying Dandy, by Swedish artist Nils Dardell 1918

@user-es3dr5xk8f Год назад

special for eastern europe and asia in 1900s?

@dakotarayprice Год назад

Can you please do a video what men really wore 1800

@ottoman_reenactor_ct Год назад

You forgot the Fez

@didamnesia3575 Год назад

The aughts

@shondale71 Год назад

❤️

@jamieheckler9940 Год назад

I love your accent

@huangwen-si7498 Год назад

1:30

@arson1tez Год назад

Come on, Sven. I need a 1980s video just before our 80's-themed Christmas Party because I kid you not, I'm going full-on Wall Street.

@Joe-pb3bm Год назад

Cuban heels.

@mysticmagicsmurfdarklord6844 Год назад

I unfortunately do not own even a single full suit or real bow tie or tie…as those things are quite expensive and I can’t exactly afford them.

@daveb9451 Год назад

Calling it "Edwardian" is correct, though - the 1900s technically start in 1901 as well, the year 1900 is just as technically the last year of the 1800s. Yes, I'm fun at parties.

@mirfangu Год назад

im just a boy with an old soul 🔥🔥

@brunowhsonant926 Год назад

@divineangelic2727 Год назад

Hi your lovily wife needs to get a makeover and wear beautiful clothes and hairstyle buy some really pretty dresses. She doesn’t seem to be into style like you but she should be also to make a perfect couple 💕💃🏾🍾🥂🎉

@aloisguillerm4104 Год назад

No so much time I've been passionated by 1890s british fads since am 4 am now 26 I live in DUbia its bloody hot but even now i wear a suit just skip the waistcoat. I wake up a 4 am at 4 30 am ready n that aint include all i have to do. In europe when i wore everything it took me 10 mins max.

@philsimms194 Год назад

Hi, you said "vests or waistcoats, as there now known in the UK" I'm not aware of a time when they've EVER been called anything else. A minor quibble from an otherwise informative video

@Steve-vf7se Год назад

Batman's villain penguin has that style. So hows about the 1700s style. Back when you couldn't show any skin. That was a shame back then. But now it's a legal to show skin

@vintermagic Год назад

too much bass not enough mid

@cheshire1494 Год назад

In my opinion, gentlemen have always worn stylish and manly clothes. Only the fashions have changed

@simomagicien5912 Год назад

Please, why don't you do an Arabic translation? There are many Arabs who follow you. There are many channels that have subtitles. Please reply, please🇦🇪🇦🇪🇦🇪🇦🇪

@simomagicien5912 Год назад

Please, why don't you do an Arabic translation? There are many Arabs who follow you. There are many channels that have subtitles. Please reply, please