Thanks for watching y'all! I know this is a long one so I provided some direct links to different portions of the video in the description so you can jump around as you please. Enjoy! -S
for mobile users/if it doesn't work right Standard Method: 1:44 PRS Method: 6:45 Crimp Method: 10:50 Vintage-Style Machines: 15:30 String Stretching: 19:00
Great video, thanks! One additional advantage of the PRS method for folks who do a lot of nonstandard tuning or find that they break strings at the tuning machine - the width of the string provides a little forgiveness in the turn out of the tuning machine hole -- less kink means less friction and weakness means fewer broken strings. At least this was the recommendation I got from David Wilcox years ago. Found it a great tip.
I always use the locking wrap with two right angles and a v-bend to really lock the string onto the post. It’s like what you call the PRS Wrap. And I always keep moderate tension on the string while winding it up to pitch, so I don’t get any slack in the wraps on the post. I always change one string at a time unless I’m going to clean and oil my fretboard. When I’m cleaning and oiling (never more than once a year) I always leave the D string on at moderate tension so the bridge and tailpiece don’t fall off and scratch my guitar. That one string doesn’t interfere with cleaning the fretboard. In addition, I think if you don’t use a locking wrap the wound strings will go dead faster. I always check that the tuner bushings are snug every time I change strings. Snug-not overly tight. If you over tighten the bushings you can compress the wood and cause the finish on the headstock to crack. As far as string stretching, I tune each string up a full step while lifting it slightly off the fretboard, then back it down to the correct pitch. I feel that this stretches the string evenly along its whole length and removes any slack behind the nut and the bridge. I take my time stringing my guitar and I go easy on the strings while I’m doing it. My strings last a long time.
I just strung my guitar for the first time. I used Stringjoy strings so I figured I would use the Stringjoy method. So far so good. I haven't ever played with different gauged strings so it is a little different, but overall couldn't be happier. Thanks for the great strings and the how-to.
The "prs" method is what I learned from a martin video a long time ago, I think it's also called a luthier knot, it's just the easiest to remember and works every time, I can restring a guitar with that method in under 5 minutes easily.
Thank you very much! With your help, I just successfully put an .011 onto my Artcore, and it looks (and sounds) great! Excited to get the rest of this set of Stringjoys on here. It’s been a long time since this puppy had new strings!
I tie a clove hitch around the tuner post. The string tightens on to the post when tuned up and doesn't untighten much when tuned down. I push the free end through the hole more as a 2nd anchor. The downside, when unstringing it still grips the post, so sometimes needs a use watch screwdriver to unwrap the post.
Interesting, I do a combination of the PRS method and your method. I align the string hole sideways like your method and run the string from inside out, but don't crimp before hand, just crimp up like the second step of yours, then wrap around/underneath/backover like the PRS method. Never found anyone else that does it that way, but I've never had a string slip and it eliminates the need for locking tuners. Thanks for the great video!
I use your bend method, but I have never done the pre-bend, before putting it through the tuner. I like your method better! Also, I didn't know that it is not recommended to stretch round core strings, so thank you for that!!
Thanks for the video. I play primarily Fender Bass guitars and was glad to see that my string winding method was correct. Early on I did have an issue with cutting the strings too short. I was told by a luthier friend that I should try for 3 winds around the peg. I stretch them by using a cloth under each string and pull about 3 inches off the neck in 2-3 places along the neck. This keeps the tuning solid with new strings. BC
I was just going suggest the same thing, was taught never remove all the strings as it will mess up the neck tension and sort of like torquing down a head can warp the head on a car engine, if done wrong can warp the neck of the guitar...such as just snipping all the strings off suddenly relieving tension...... Safest way I believe for retaining years of built in neck tension.....do one string at a time
@DEEJMASTER 333 Maybe....but a round truss rod doesn't compensate for twist in the neck....ever seen a wood gunstock twist and take a memory? You may be right but The truss rod from what I understand is more to adjust the height of the strings along the neck so theyre not too high...not so much to prevent the wood taking memory. anyway....I was always told since there is so much stress in the neck....to prevent a shock to the wood....change one string at a time.
The PRS method obviously is a Modern label for an old technique. Just about any guitar repair book shows that method as well as Martin guitar owner's manual, etc. Interesting though, when I do the wrap around and make the "V", I wrap in the opposite direction. From a physics standpoint, seems like either way achieves the same result of locking the tail of the string under the wrap. Thanks for the video!
I use the ‘prs’ method on my acoustic. My tele has locking tuners so I no longer need to kink the strings. As far as slack, I pull the string through then back off one full fret length before making a kink. That way I don’t have to worry about space between different tuning peg orientation. Great video.
One of the first weird ways that I learned to restring (after the first method you described) was to wrap the string end yourself, rather than turning the turning key, then put the end of the string through. This never made a ton of sense to me, and I ultimately switched to the knotting method and have been using it for years. I may try your bending method out, at least on the unwrapped strings. They can be a real pain (literally) to hold on to, and I'm guaranteed to stab myself at least 70% of the time. Thanks for the video!
Interesting. I use a different method altogether. After placing the string through the hole in the tuning peg I direct the first wind so it wraps ABOVE where the tag end comes through the hole. Then I try to make sure to have enough slack so that I have at least one but typically two wraps below the tag end. This way the tag end is pinched between two Adjacent wraps to help prevent any slippage. I'm not even sure where I picked this method up. I've been doing it for many years.
I use the "one wrap over, the rest under" method, which is another common one. I learned it from Justin Sandercoe I think, but I've seen it done in many other videos out there. It starts out like the regular method, but you do one wrap around the post over the loose part of the string, and then wrap the rest of the way under it as usual. It locks the string in place nicely but it makes it way easier to remove than the 'prs tie' method. That reminds me that I have to replace the strings on my Explorer.
Love your strings. They’re on all my guitars. I’ve developed my own stringing method over the years. None of the above. My wraps end up immaculate because I’ve done it so many times. Sidenote: It gives me the heebies watching you press the string down onto the headstock where you might scratch the finish.
Thanks Eric! Yeah folks have mentioned this too me before in RU-vid comments, but I've never scratched the finish on any of my guitars while doing this FWTW. I'm not really like pushing it down on there with all my might, just holding it lightly 👍
I use the first method you showed, but I make the first wrap above the hole, then all subsequent wraps below. This ends up clamping the cut end between two wraps as the wraps compress under tension. I'm primarily an acoustic player, and have never had tuning stability problems with this method. BTW I generally give 1-1/2 tuner posts of slack (on a 3 x 3 headstock).
I learned the first way. The second way I learned recently and did it on my 8-string; the RU-vidr did not call it the "PRS Method" XD My other threed guitars have locking tuners, thankfully >_> The 3rd I have never seen, but I like it, and will probably try it when I restring my 8 next (with Stringjoy strings, of course, just need to get the gauges sorted and kill the strings on it now XD)
The Double Reverse Kink is the shit. Angle the tuner hole past center facing up a little, run the string through from the center, and yank the string down to get the initial kink, which gives a crisper kink...I saw this method on YT, also. With 3 finger width slack spacing (skinny fingers...probably a Gibson peg and a half) I get 3 wraps on the wound strings, and 4+ on the others, but I use 8-10-13.5-22w-30-40. Pre stretching the strings and retuning several times tightens the wraps around the pegs, and helps tuning stability, especially if you pick hard and bend a lot. Get the Ernie Ball Power Peg...fast and much easier to keep tension when winding around the pegs.
I like the prs method I’ve heard martins method is the same as well actually. Though I’ve never payed attention. Just less paying attention I could change strings including removing the old ones and installing the new ones in probably about 5 minutes maybe a bit less. Interesting method you have however I like the simplicity of the prs method in the way of no paying attention to stuff ahead of time just pull it through give a half wrap around give it a good pull and kink it around that string and done not much slack so tuning up and winding is quick although I will give it to you that it does complicate the removal process a bit.
I've never used vintage-style tuners before but I hear some people praising them for what you said, how they're almost like locking tuners. So why did tuner companies go away from that top-down method anyway? I feel like a vintage-style peg with a high gear ratio would be the best of both worlds.
Yeah I think they're a pretty brilliant design. I've never gotten a straight answer about why companies went away from them. The only big limitation they have is with heavier gauge strings, there's definitely a gauge at which they no longer function as they should.
I tend to use a method like one wrap over the string and the rest underneath,works for me and it is not as complicated. I have begun to use Daddario XT strings for all of my guitars now cause i have a few guitars to restring and it would take a pretty long time for me to change strings on soon 12 guitars and it also would be quite expensive. With the XT strings i dont need to change them as often cause they are treated and last longer. Only coated or treated strings for me. For the acoustics i tend to like the Ernie Ball Everlast.
Believe or not I use your method. In regards to changing them I record the date I change them. Then it just becomes a matter of how often I play that particular guitar before the next string change.
I have Hipshot Grip-Lok tuners on my Mayones, and my method has just been to pull the string through fairly tight, lock it, cut it at the peg, then tune up. Curious to hear if you've messed around with locking tuners and can provide some insight! Thanks:)
Hey there I keep changing my strings but anytime I do I do it right but It keeps breaking when putting on a new one it keeps getting tight and snapping it's a annoying I stretch it and still brakes when I turn the nob up and if that don't work down and still doesn't work whyyyy 😔
A tip for Floyd Rose users: change the strings outer to inner then change the back springs from there. It’ll help with keeping tension. I learned that from Trey Xavier of Gear Gods.
Question: I was taught that you should remove & replace 1 string at a time. As opposed to removing all 6 strings from the guitar before putting on new strings. Your thoughts?
I’ve never made a kink in my strings while restringing. I thought maybe it would do something to the sound. I wrap the string around the tuning peg one time and then feed it through the hole. Then tune it. What is your opinion about that method?
Stringjoy sometimes it’s a pain cause you gotta hold the string in place while you tune it. Kinda like in the video. It’ll come undone if you let go, but just wondering if you ever heard of people doing this?
Totally depends on the player! The average range is anywhere from 1-6 months. But some folks change them every week and others only do it once a year. edit: spelling
*If there's something that I totally hate in this life is changing Guitar Strings. I broke the Low E string from my acoustic so I bought new just to break the new Low E string again while changing it, I want to kill myself.*
