Rust Remover Showdown. Will Evapo-Rust prevail? 

Howdy, I just subscribed yesterday. You have managed to become another of the random channels that I enjoy. :)

Thanks for watching and subscribing!

@@ProjectFarm No problem. It gets boring down here and we all need something to pass the time.

Do you know who makes the best 1000 watt power inverter? I usually need it to plug in a 110v 5 amp water hose sump pump and have found myself near no power and have to drive on average about 20miles back to town to grab a generator. Tractor supply co, DeWalt, Duracell all make one but which one can deliver power without putting to much of a strain on my truck and run without over heating after 10minutes of use. I've looked on RU-vid and through forums but all they give is specs of them and not a actual test. If you do happen to do a video on this could you run such a pump on a 50ft extension cord? I know it's a expensive task to ask but if you find yourself needing a project idea I give you my deepest gratitude. Thanks and look forward to a "let's find out" video on 1000watt inverters

I've seen comments about ACF-50 (and the heavier version, Corrosion Block) mentioning that they can also remove rust. I would be interested in that being put to the test, maybe up against other rust prevention products like XCP Rust Blocker. Of course their primary purpose is to prevent rust but seeing how they affect existing rust would also be useful.

Thank you!

davemc187 lol great idea

Haha!! That's a great use for Coke

true it also works on removing battery corrosion.

Project Farm Coke actually works really good when using some tin foil. If you brush a piece of tin foil against the metal with some Coke poured onto it the rust removes in seconds. Talking out of experience.

Thanks so much!

Honestly this is so true. Break down why and how the product removes rust. Best in groups

Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback.

Very interesting, thanks

Thanks

Be careful with evapo-rust it will etch a part at the waterline. Make certain to immerse parts completely in evaporust!

Oh, obviously you're doing a commercial for the Krud Cutter. In addition to being the most expensive product, you had to soak the crescent wrench for 23 hours to get all the rust off, and in that time, although you didn't mention it, it removed the good metal too. Muriatic acid would have done the same job in 30 minutes instead of 23 hours, but you weren't bought by them.

Thank you very much! The positive feedback helps!

The problem is, there are only so many things to test. Will be sad when PF reaches the end!

I thought you said he should stop lol

It's only one test per product lol

Thank you!

@@ProjectFarm Me too

Project Farm you didn’t lie, you do read everything! Props to you (claps in sign language)

Thanks so much! Thanks for sharing.

Oh, obviously you're doing a commercial for the Krud Cutter. In addition to being the most expensive product, you had to soak the crescent wrench for 23 hours to get all the rust off, and in that time, although you didn't mention it, it removed the good metal too. Muriatic acid would have done the same job in 30 minutes instead of 23 hours, but you weren't bought by them.

@@markspc1 You're a goon....this dude is easily the most non-biased tester of products I've ever seen. Some boneheads gotta hate on everything. You do you I guess.

Krud Kutter is basically phosphoric acid (the safety sheet says

Can this be put in a bottle & sprayed on rusty frame sections on a truck or car?

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks

Have you ever tried to using it in a car radiator coolant system and keeping it inside for few days ?

@alberta3157 it won't do any good for that, radiator coolant has rust inhibitors already. If you have trash in your cooling system go get a professional cooling system flush. Will do a much much better job.

​@@themeez1000 it costs around 150$, they are not telling you if they are using any solution, they just connect a system that presurizes the cooling system and using heated water/solution to circulate for some time. So I'm not sure about that ...

We're gonna test that!

Great information! Thank you

I second useing it to free rusted up things. Works 1000x better than wd-40. Not to mention you can put metal parts with plastic paint and anything in between and not have to worry about the evap-rust hurting anything other than rust. Short of needing something rust free same day evapo-rust is king. Super reusable and affordable too

So does the Evapo-rust start eating the metal if you leave it in there for a long time? How long should i let it sit for? I wanna use the evapo-rust on a chrome bmx frame.. will the evapo-rust eat up the chrome or turn it a different color? There’s only a few spots on the frame that’s rusted but the chrome is still nice and would like to keep it ... any info would be appreciated, thanks

@@ladron775 I've not used it on Chrome before but I've used it on stuff with paint and plastic as well as aluminum and brass, I'd advise using it on a small patch of chrome to ensure no discoloration but I doubt you'll have issues. It will not eat away at metal, I've forgot stuff in it for a week one with no metal being eaten. It takes about 24hr to work depending on how heavy the rust is ect, a scotch Brite pad to knock off anything loose is helpful too if you're in a hurry

@@ladron775 not sure about chrome, but it does change the surface colour of the raw steel. Somehow it draws a very small about of carbon to the surface, darkening it. Given that Chrome doesn’t contain carbon, you’re probably fine, but test a small spot to be safe. No, evaporust doesn’t harm the metal at all, or paint or other coatings. It’s also extremely safe to handle. Their MSDS listings on their site will confirm that.

You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.

This was fascinating

lol! Yes, this is much more practical but I enjoy the crazy videos too. More of those coming soon.

Yeah, those other tests are nuts! Pun intended. But they are soo much fun!

Not completely... Most of the products tested are not known in Europe. But everyone knows the stuff he puts in an engine. What's the point of testing if products are not available (or at insane high prices). I'm always a bit dissapointed when it's not an engine test because of this.

Project Farm can you try baby oil as engine oil?

Why not try used deep fried fast food oil in the crankcase? Lol

Thank you!

lol do your own research bro

Reel-Lentless not true although they are harder to find.

I always loved going into Best Buy, Circuit City, and a few other choice electronic stores to have employees start reading off the side of the products that they were trying to sell.. Let's see; I believe I can do that myself. In any number of stores, what gets recommended is often a function not necessarily price, but how much profit is made; the staff is taught which brands give them the most profit; in other stores, some employees figure that the more expensive product is the product to sell ( most profit ) .

@@MrPir84free I don't have a problem with them reading off the box, as long as they can explain what the features listed are and mean. Or can explain the differences between products. So it's not just: "well, one box says it has a 2-ohm resistance speaker and the other says it has 4-ohm". Ummm.... Ok....what's an ohm and what do the different numbers mean? .... If they can explain things on that level....I'm good.

Unless you need it done as fast as possible then the Evapo-Rust is the better choice due to how safe it is all around, especially regarding disposal.

Muratic acid?

I clean everything with Krud Kutter.

I just applied Krud Kutter to my mower deck, turned the rust spots white. I plan to use Fluid Film as the top coat. It will be interesting to see how this will work when I hit the wet patches of grass. Normally I DO NOT mow wet grass, but this year (West Central Wisconsin), it has been raining EVERY OTHER day, so I have no choice! Lawn maintenance SUX!!!

Thank you, will do!

Thank you very much for the terrific video idea! Also, thanks for the information on muriatic acid. I learn a lot from the comments. Finally, what a scary situation regarding the "big gulp" of this stuff! Thanks again.

Oxalic acid. Cheap, better, and you can leave the part for weeks.

Great point.

It's non toxic....the muriatic acid....is bad stuff....i restored wrenches that were nothing more than a ball of rust with evaporust.....

Nicholas Korner Just don't drink it...

Nicholas Korner your stomach already makes hydrochloric acid. Its not that bad. Just don't let it sit on your skin too long and protect your eyes.

Your stomach only contains

Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback.

yikes haha

Are you sure this wasn't two different products. I'm studying to be a chemist but j know that clr is a mix of lactic acid and a surfactant and that should have no issues being mixed with viniger whitch is just a 5% acitic acid mix

​@@putinslittlehacker4793 it was Drano not CLR

@@ProjectFarm I apologize for my earlier comment it was not CLR.

Thank you very much!

Thank you! Thanks for the feedback.

I’ve had great luck with evaporust. I just soak overnight and it gets all of the rust. And no they didn’t pay me.

Wow, thank you!

You are so welcome!

Thank you!

Me too, if you look on the bottle it says something about removing rust from porcelain and brick. I think it's made to remove rust stains.

Dsdcain I have used CLR to remove hard water stains. I should say “tried” to use. It did nothing at all.

I agree. I typically use it for hard water stains as well and haven't tried with rust yet However, I can see the justification for testing it since the name implies it should: Calcium, Lime, Rust remover

Clr has always corroded anything I have used it on

Awesome, thank you!

Thanks so much!

Wow 😮

Thank you

Evapo-rust is my go to for over night use as it's safe and I live near a water way and want no toxic chemicals to leach.

Kimo Kalihi I also use Evaporust & love it. I mostly use it to dip rusty parts in the 5 Gallon bucket that I bought from Amazon, $75 yeah that's expensive but worth it. I pour it inside the engine block to remove all the passages where the water coolant flows through while closing off any exit areas like where the water pump attaches to. 5 days cleans it very nice to the bare iron cast. I also dip rusted parts in the 5 gallon bucket. If parts don't fit, then I use a sprayable gel called Krust Kutter. Don't forget to acid etch all rust treated metals, otherwise the rust will eventually come back in less than a year.

Thanks!

You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.

Agreed - With the Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner with heat it takes about 2 hours for me to remove rust on small parts with EvapoRust. With the bigger pieces I just put them in a tub and cover with Evaporust for a day or two. I may try the Muriatic Acid though next time i'm in a hurry though for the big parts.

Galvanized steel is just zinc-coated, so it should be non-toxic. It might even be beneficial, if your soil is zinc-deficient: www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=zinc+fertilizer

Great comment! Thank you for the extra details. Not sure just what I could use this for yet.. my boyfriend has a ton of rusty tools in the garage but he thinks it's weird that I want to clean them up & get them organized on a peg board. "That's like me asking if I can wash your makeup brushes for you..." Fair enough!

@@ncdave4life careful, usually some crap in there too, like cobalt and other compound chemicals... cancer... not worth it, maybe for a tree somewhere

Thank you

I tried a few of these products on my own... the only thing the Coke did was make my old, rusty tools WET. 🤣 Rust Kutter says it is a "Rust Converter". Any idea what the heck THAT means? I REALLY enjoy your videos!

Welcome! Thanks for watching and subscribing.

Thanks, will do!

sounds like a crazy night

Thank you very much!

Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.

You are welcome!

Great video idea!

Great ideas

Did this a couple of times on an MGB 18V engine. The RTV worked better than the high performance copper head gasket and was easy to clean up when I needed to work on something else (those things were known as tinker toys for a reason)

Maybe also do a gasket dressing comparison? such as copper spray, hylomar, hondabond, the right stuff, or others that you can find. Personally, I like hylomar and hondabond.

Thank you!

Why in the world would you do that? Fluid Film will destroy any rust by itself

@@barackobama5304 Even according to fluid films website it is formulated to stop the spread of rust it does not remove rust.

I love this guy, BUT I wish he would slow down the "speed reading" from the "Q-cards"! Don't know how he can talk SOOO fast without catching a breath, but it is annoying at times! LOL

You are welcome!

Thank you

Krud-Kutter is just a phosphoric acid solution and has its place, however, it is an acid. Evapo-Rust will not affect good metal. Sure, other things work faster, but Evapo-Rust never claimed to work fast. In 24 hours, it works great and does not create microscopic pits like acids do. Even phosphoric. Phosphoric acids leave a phosphoric oxide coating that will fight surface rust for a while, but it still pits the metal like every other acid. For most things, it's probably great, but for times you really want the underlying metal untouched, Evapo-Rust is great.

also need to wash under the sink rub with a brush what helps it. i think why it wasnt the best is because it was so rusted out i think they say to use a wire brush to remove top layer. I still love my evapo tho

Microscopic pits are great when you want to coat the metal with a rustproofing paint.

James Hough I was wondering about how much the krud cutter would attack the other metal. Thanks.

Thanks! Glad to hear!

Thanks for sharing.

Thank you!

lol!

And yet on the taste test, Coke won - go figure!

Thanks for the feedback.

You are welcome! Thanks for watching!

Great video idea!

I really like this idea.

Project Farm I've made copper plated dimes with a 12 v battery , water, and table salt.... and an old penny... It works, and they look great.

I'd like to try this, see it in a vid.

I'm sensing a pre 1982 penny vs post 1982 penny vs copper pipe electroplating video coming on.

Great strategy!

I used this stuff one time to see what it would do to some rusty nuts and bolts. It removed the rust OK but 24 hours later, the rust came back with a vengeance! I assumed the acid etched the metal which caused it to rust worse. Prior to that, I washed the nuts off in water and dried them but that did nothing. I tried another test, this time submerging them in my parts washer full of kerosene. The rust came back while being fully submerged overnight! I never tried baking soda to neutralize the acid. One more thing. I was using a glass jar and had placed a layer of aluminum foil over top of it. The next day the foil was gone and there was these little hair like fibers around it. That was surprising enough but everything within a 4' radius was rusted! I had some plated wrenches on the wall on the "backsplash" of my work bench and the vapors rusted it and everything else around it.

Inspironator - Be careful what you dilute it with; using an oxidizer like Chlorine bleach will produce Chlorine gas, which reconstitutes HCl when it contacts the moisture in your lungs.

James Siebold Indeed, that has been my experience as well (sulfuric acid has the same effect) - the fumes are extremely corrosive but muriatic acid is very effective and it eats aluminum right away as you saw ;-) After treatment I wash the part and dip it in a Citric Acid solution, it is quite effective and does seem to protect the metal from further rust after that. I finish the process with drying and spraying the parts with WD 40 and the metal does stay rust free after that.

John Coops, you can also use Citric Acid for that, I buy it in bulk at a grocery wholesaler.

You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the feedback.

Glad to hear! You are welcome!

Great point.

but black phosphate protects against rust, right?

Thanks and you are welcome!

Thanks. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for sharing!

Yes, these were very badly rusted nuts and bolts.

Did you brush it off, it works great

Vinegar works well, but it takes longer. The rust will wash off. It won’t etch the metal, either.

My comment exactly. Vinigar need a little wiping to get clean

Well yeah, many products will work with elbow grease, even the coke with enough friction (albeit it's effectiveness would be 95% elbow grease and 5% coke), these products are formulated to be stronger so they penetrate without needing as much elbow grease, vinegar is just a weaker acid at rust removal since it's so heavily diulted (most of these are using acids for removal); vinegar is just diluted acetic acid.

Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks, will do!

Thank you very much!!

Glad to hear! Thanks for watching.

Thanks and you are welcome!

Great suggestion! Thank you.

My thoughts exactly! Ty

Thanks for sharing.

You are welcome!

Thank you very much for the positive comment!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks, will do! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks! Thanks for sharing.

lol! Thank you!

@Ðavз the name would be called a nut fucker i think its global the names here in New Zealand are called Crescent Adjustable spanner Nut Fucker they are hardly used in workshops or garages

Adjustable hammer

We Call Them Metric/American Here in the States 😎🇺🇸

We also call them Crescent wrench's here in Detroit.

I'm sure it's coming real soon now. Nothing else to do these days😜😮😨😢

Yes, ^^^ my question also.

^^^^

^^^^^^

One year later

Thanks! Thanks for watching! Glad I could help!

Thanks and you are welcome!

Thank you!

Thanks for watching and subscribing!

May he rest peacefully

Thanks for sharing.

Thank you very much and thanks for the product recommendation! You've got a GREAT channel. Thanks again!

Project Farm I would like to see if one of your engines will run charcoal starter

Basically Karosene

Ospho is awesome.

electronicsNmore Ospho?

Thank you for the video idea!

@@ProjectFarm Don't use rust converter if you truly want to remove rust, unless you plan to sell the car within a year. I speak from experience because I've tried so many products and techniques before setting with the products & methods that I use. The problem with rust converters is that it only converts the surface rust to a surface that you can primer & paint. Here's the problem: only the surface, the top part of the rust converts NOT THE RUST BENEATH IT. The converter doesn't penetrate all the way through to treat the actual metal. So underneath, the actual metal continues to rust as if you actually did nothing to it. Try using a water based gel rust remover called The Must For Rust, sold in Walmart & Home Depot. Buy acid etcher while you're at it so you can neutralize rust from reappearing. The Must For Rust is water based, it won't harm you. Acid etcher is acid so wear latex gloves, eye & breathing protection. If you don't etch the metal after removing the rust, it will return in less than a year. You will see the paint lift up like air pockets.

@@johnnyjohn8073 Or is that Krud Kutter? 11:00 look at the bottle and the sloggan.

@@stankyleg6449 Either way is fine, Krud Kutter or The Must For Rust. I use the name The Must For Rust because it is the larger letters so I assume that's the actual name but if you enter either name on the Internet, the same product will come up. In fact, there is a short instructional video that uses the title The Must For Rust. It comes in liquid & in gel. I haven't used the liquid yet as it comes out in this vide. But I have used the gel. Both are water based. There are 3 products that I use depending on what I want treated. I use EvapoRust to dip car parts to remove the rust. On body panels like fenders, doors, quarter panels, hood, trunk lids, etc., I use the sprayable gel from Krud Kutter/The Must For Rust. Why? Because the gel sticks to the panels even while upright/vertically standing. If you use the liquid form, it drips right off. The sprayable gel can also be brushed on to the panel. Never let a gel rust remover dry otherwise you will have a hell of a time removing it because it turns into a really sticky material that is even hard to remove with acetone or water & a wire brush. Keep on applying the gel while it's still moist before it dries. Use a metal or brass whire brush to some times scrape off the desolving rust. As a final step, regardless of what product you use, or whether it's a gel or a liquid rust remover, treat it with Prep & Etch by Klean Strip brand from Home Depot. This neutralizes the rust from returning any time soon but it all depends on the humidity in your state. If you're not going to paint the part right away, use an etcher primer even if it's the Rustoleum etching primer. But it's best to use an epoxy primer the next day, then the following day paint the part. Why go through so much work if you are not going to paint the part fairly quick. Since we're talking about a part that was rusty, the rust can eventually come back again if you don't follow up with finally painting the part. Last year I bought a 5 gallon bucket of EvapoRust & I poured it into a Home Depot heavy duty plastic storage box. I then diped my Miata engine block in it. I let each side get treated for 2 day since 5 gallons wasn't enough to submerge the whole engine block. After I let it dry on the engine stand for a day & using an air blower, I sprayed the Prep & Etch around the exterior of the block keeping it wet for 10 minutes also using a brush & sponge. Without letting it dry on the engine block, I whiped it dry with clean rags. The Prep & Etch is an etcher & creates a phosphoric layer on the cast iron which not only neutralizes rust, it allows the epoxy primer to stick to it well. Then I used a blue single stage epoxy paint on the engine block. The engine is a beauty. I'm currently in the process of rust treating the engine block on my mustang's engine block, V8 5.0. By the way, you can also use the Prep & Etch to dip rusted parts in it. Be warned, it is a very strong acid so it will remove the rust from heavily rusted nuts & bolts in just a few minutes. Then it starts eating away at the actual metal so special care must be taken. It is an actual acid so use eye, hand, & breathing protection. Anyway, I've probably already repeated all this more than once in the comment section in this same video. Whatever rust remover you use, if you let it dry to the air, it will turn into this white chalk like powdery residue. So wipe it off dry when you think the metal part rust has been treated good enough. Don't use water to clean as per the instructions. I use a little acetone because it dries fast & is less likely to give you flash rust within a few minutes like water does.

Johnny John would your technique with “must for rust” be good on rust holes on a van roof? Im thinking of grinding down the rust using your method of the gel then epoxy primer then doing fiber glass or bondo over the holes then painting , what do you think?

You are welcome!

Thanks!

Stefano Dogg. It's (Krud kutter) The Must For Rust. I also use it & love it. It's a water based product that says to clean the dissolved mushy rust with water, DON'T because flash rust will come right back. You will eventually have thicker rust build up after several weeks. I use either an acetone wet rag to clean it up or I spray acetone then wipe off with a dry cloth. Finally I neutralize the metal with an acid etcher, to prevent future rust, just before I primer it with either etching primer or epoxy primer.

Thanks, will do!

No problem!

Hand Tool Rescue wonder what concentration is in coca cola ;)

Hand Tool Rescue, Great point! You've got a great channel and lots of comments about the great work you do. Thanks for checking out the video!

Hand Tool Rescue - Wondering if its safe to use Krud Kutter or Evapo Rust with an Ultrasonic Cleaner on Brake Calipers (Don't want to cause an explosion, fire, or damage rubber components of the Brake Calipers) ???

GONEWILDFILMS, Should be no problems with Evaporust in ultrasonic cleaner as far as reactions. It's inert. It usually won't harm anything like paint, and labels, so your rubber should be OK. Just de-rusted a pair of handlebars for a push mower, that had a 36 year old label on them with instructions on how to start the mower. Didn't harm the label at all. You want to make sure what ever you are using evaporust to remove rust with is clean. Grease, dirt, oil, brake dust will contaminate it. I don't know if an ultrasonic cleaner doing its ultrasonic thing will make it work faster, but if your ultrasonic cleaner has a heater, that will make the evaporust work faster.

50 years ago, my Grand-pa taught me to use Molasses as a rust remover. The same stuff you buy in the grocery store. I use a 50/50 mix of molasses and water. It does take alot longer to remove the rust than what these test times were, but it is a cheap and non-toxic way to remove rust.

It's a great product!

Thanks, will do!