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What shreds a climbing rope first? 

HowNOT2
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We tested some other devices on ropes after putting out • Petzl said to NEVER do... a few days ago about micro traxions and having requests for other devices. This data and video will be added to the micro traxion blog at www.hownot2.com/post/petzl-mi...
We found a Ropeman1 and tested it in this instagram video / coobdl9pntx
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3 фев 2023

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Комментарии : 170   
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 Год назад
We found a Ropeman1 with ribbed teeth. It broke the dynamic rope at 4.95kN, less than the micro traxion. instagram.com/p/CoObDl9pntX/. Our quickies usually end up here on the Clips subchannel FYI www.youtube.com/@hownot2clips. Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
@TrueHelpTV
@TrueHelpTV Год назад
my tower company just switched to the ASAP, and I've been on the fence about them, so yeah these videos are so on point for us.
@briancresson2610
@briancresson2610 Год назад
I use a Ropeman1 exclusively for top rope soloing (with modified GriGri backup) Yikes! Can’t say I’ve taken any big falls 😅
@TrueHelpTV
@TrueHelpTV Год назад
@@briancresson2610 after seeing this it sort of confirms what i knew and makes me want to switch to or add in the system something like a rescuescender above my IDS. OSHA makes us run 2 ropes when doing work, so its ultimately not an issue, but still.. Id prefer striving for a perfect system even though it would be damn touch to over shock both systems without any work hazard catastrophic failures incurring.
@darthtrump4428
@darthtrump4428 Год назад
cant wait for CT roll n lock btw, i like longer videos with more detail and explanation
@gregboyce360
@gregboyce360 Год назад
Imo a purposeful quickie adds to your effectiveness. Seeing that Grigri was very interesting. Bravo.
@AlternativeAdventureAthlete
Would love to see how the Petzl ASAP fall arrestor stacks up as far as desheathing and catching a shock load.
@DrewNorthup
@DrewNorthup Год назад
Given that a shock absorber device is required for most (of not all) safe riggings using an ASAP we might have a fairly good idea already…
@RainBoxRed
@RainBoxRed Год назад
@@DrewNorthup Test it in both configurations?
@DrewNorthup
@DrewNorthup Год назад
@@RainBoxRed I don't know if it is still available, but at one point Petzl actually did that. TL;DR : It really screwed up the rope without the absorber, with one it only left minor damage.
@ayeeniko
@ayeeniko Год назад
Love seeing sketchy Andy in videos. His mom, Lynn was my art teacher and play director in middle school! So cool seeing him still in one piece.
@error.418
@error.418 Год назад
Knowing him, it's also shocking to see him in once piece. He tries so hard to end that streak but just keeps failing.
@magnetohidrodinamika
@magnetohidrodinamika Год назад
Really nice videos! Appriciate it, especially the arborist ones. Cheers from a hungarian arborist from Switzerland!
@benjaminbordson7502
@benjaminbordson7502 Год назад
Hell yeah Ryan! Bring in the Arborist vids lol.
@wenkeli1409
@wenkeli1409 Год назад
Would be super curious about the petzl Tibloc
@friednatur2557
@friednatur2557 3 месяца назад
When I hear petzle 😮😂
@marcusstrymon693
@marcusstrymon693 2 месяца назад
holy smokes the tibloc will absolutely destroy the rope bevause it doesnt have the feather mechanism. At least the micro generates some force with the feather.
@shred_meister
@shred_meister 2 месяца назад
Yeah man the thing about tiblock is it can slide and skin the rope depending on how you do it it’s a good ascender and does it’s job but it’s 40 bucks not for daily use for sure but will get you up
@marcusstrymon693
@marcusstrymon693 2 месяца назад
@@shred_meister Thing is I'd say for the weight there is soooo much better ascenders. Like why not carry a trax? Its literally so light and is so much safer and a lot nore versatile as well. A nobrainer
@jonathanandrade176
@jonathanandrade176 Год назад
Thanks for all you do for the community!
@50StichesSteel
@50StichesSteel Год назад
Literally my favorite YT notification to get.. You probably have one of the few channels I'll watch no watter what comes on... Because if not entertaining, I'm learning something or both
@samehmann7353
@samehmann7353 Год назад
Super excited for the next comparison!!!!
@spacetime314
@spacetime314 Год назад
Hey man, congratulations on your new space! Looks grrrrrrreaat!!!!!! Keep it up!!!!
@MarcinOnRocks
@MarcinOnRocks Год назад
It would be nice to see how those devices are doing in icy conditions. I have CT rollnlock without sharp spikes (like the Gibbs in this video) because it meant to do well with ice on the rope.
@mastheadmike
@mastheadmike Год назад
Definitely like the quick format follow up!
@DantesChronicOdyssey
@DantesChronicOdyssey Год назад
This is such a good video for all the people that argue about rope solo devices!
@mr.timeless
@mr.timeless Год назад
Gibbs! Good stuff. I used them for years to prussic out of vertical caves. Used one in Alps to follow fixed ropes..never iced up. Great new lab!
@susannewilliams
@susannewilliams Год назад
Actual reliable data. Thank you!
@lachsfilet1362
@lachsfilet1362 Год назад
Thank you for taking up our suggestions!!
@oldmanbeta
@oldmanbeta Год назад
Mix of short and long-form videos is my preference. Good stuff!!
@climbingrescuehongstar1062
@climbingrescuehongstar1062 Год назад
I'm your big fan. I can't wait to see the next test video.
@Nuggett33
@Nuggett33 Год назад
Great work! Thanks and love the content 😊
@Version135
@Version135 Год назад
That Gibbs looks like a lanyard adjustor
@martingravdal7094
@martingravdal7094 Год назад
Love the new lab! Beautiful😁
@coltonharris4556
@coltonharris4556 Год назад
This is random and you’ve probably already tested it, but I’d be interested in seeing what a Connecticut tree hitch breaks/slips at. Also a surgeons knot with dyneema around a tree would be sick. Keep up the good work, your videos are awesome!!
@vieuxacadian9455
@vieuxacadian9455 Год назад
That Gibbs is mostly seen in the industrial / rescue sector. Gibbs has models for cable ascension as on fixed ladders . I personally own several for rope and for cable . I like the gibbs units . Great video Guys !!!!!!!!!!!!
@dapeach06
@dapeach06 Год назад
Gibbs are also used in caving, for ropewalker systems
@Mlanding1
@Mlanding1 Год назад
Great video! I have a Microtrax and Ropeman 2 for a solo TR setup.
@lukfilipski
@lukfilipski Год назад
Ryan, what about the Climbing Technology Roll'n'Lock? It has a very different cam/ridges than the Microtraxion, and seems a very good choice as a progress capture device, maybe you could test it out in this scenario as well? I know a few people who use it for rope soloing
@spud_67
@spud_67 Год назад
shoulda finished the video 😏
@TheArmyKnifeNut
@TheArmyKnifeNut Год назад
3:36... if only you had the patience to watch ¾ of the video.
@BlastHardCheese711
@BlastHardCheese711 2 месяца назад
@@TheArmyKnifeNut a year later, where's the video?
@erikwilliams7009
@erikwilliams7009 Год назад
The quick hits are great. I love the deep dives but sometimes don't have time, so, if it's just the nub of whatever issue, that's a plus, IMO
@nickmoser8235
@nickmoser8235 Год назад
My palms get sweaty just hearing you guys talk about falling while climbing 😂
@ericonnen4367
@ericonnen4367 Год назад
I use a TAZ Lov2 for rope soloing in addition to my microtraxion. Operates similar to a grigri. Would love to see a break test on that one
@Sunny-gt8zi
@Sunny-gt8zi Год назад
Please test the Petzl Shunt. Its completely toothless and i have seen it used for rope solo.
@alexwong4528
@alexwong4528 Год назад
Bumping this! I use the Petzl Shunt for rope solo, but with a Micro Traxion as a backup because I don't know at what force a Shunt will slip at.
@NeillWylie
@NeillWylie Год назад
The gri gri was quite good! Even at that good failure number, it still holds and only slowly slips. Not gonna lie, glad I used the grigri for so long.
@Cragdognamedbear
@Cragdognamedbear Год назад
I know someone who took a factor 2 directly on to his partner’s Grigri with a brand new rope and it did indeed rip the sheath. .2 cam blew during the fall. Yes he should have backed up the first piece.
@timkirkpatrick9155
@timkirkpatrick9155 Год назад
Thanks again for doing arborist tools!
@allezvenga7617
@allezvenga7617 Год назад
Thanks for your sharing
@OldSloGuy
@OldSloGuy Год назад
I remember an old video, done in England if I recall, that tested industrial fall arrest devices in a drop tower. They all failed, and then they tested an old style Rescucender, and it was the only one to pass, but it is not a fall arrest device! a distinct problem with the Rescucender is dirty rope. Once the cam starts to wear, that nice radius on the rope contact undulations becomes a sharp edge. Good news, bad news: its very easy to inspect, but its a judgement call for when to replace. Other bad news, Petzel bought the design from Rock Exotica, the original maker. Petzl has come up with a replacement with captive mechanics, but an inferior rope path. Petzl did not relinquish the rights to the old design, so Rock Exotica can not make them under their own name.
@1981StevieG
@1981StevieG Год назад
Ryan, I have been binge watching your videos and they have encouraged me to get back into climbing so much so my girlfriend wants to learn with me. Great and very useful content. Thank you.
@Profixt
@Profixt Год назад
Oooh can't wait for the diverter carabiner tests!
@junkice6930
@junkice6930 Год назад
You should definitely add the clips channel to your "Channels" tab on the main one!
@Brocuzgodlocdunfamdogson
@Brocuzgodlocdunfamdogson Год назад
I had the wear plate on my Croll get to a point where it was starting to create a sharp edge. The rope and teeth were more or less fine.
@alexmattyspac7605
@alexmattyspac7605 Год назад
I like to see a porta wraps (bollards) and different ways of attaching to them tested. And if there is any loss of rope strength.
@mattking3852
@mattking3852 Год назад
Its been shown that non-toothed ascenders like the Gibbs ascender will strip the rope at 5kN as well. This has been well established in tests. So the more aggressive toothed devices are not much different.
@mattking3852
@mattking3852 Год назад
Gibbs ascenders used to be used in rope rescue as a back up belay device and would outright break the static rope in dynamic drop tests at not much greater than 5kN.
@perplexedon9834
@perplexedon9834 Год назад
I second a lot of others that you should definitely test the Taz Lov 2 or 3. I think it's considered the gold standard in TRS these days, and it's what ive started using (with an extended microtrax as backup)
@pavlodeshko
@pavlodeshko Год назад
+1 for Edelrid Spoc. Cheers!
@OanDeWaal
@OanDeWaal Год назад
Yes for quicker videos! 😀
@jasonhall5101
@jasonhall5101 Год назад
Would love to see testing on the taz lov2 and or 3. I have been using this for top rope solo and for roof work for several years as it’s an all in one device . Really want to know it’s behaviour at its limits and where those limits are .
@dhanes2912
@dhanes2912 Год назад
You could try a unicore rope if you're looking for suggestions, the sheath won't come off.
@ericdoub5751
@ericdoub5751 Год назад
The video flashed a statement near the end that unicore ropes will be tested.
@kukelary1199
@kukelary1199 Год назад
Would be curious about some tests with the old micro traxion... on a 6mm rad line too!
@dtaylor4200
@dtaylor4200 Год назад
I’d love to see the Edelrid Spoc and the tibloc up against the microtraxion in a similar test
@destructoau7526
@destructoau7526 Год назад
Hey Guys there’s a CE Standard 353-2 and if the device is stamped it has passed a Factor 1 or 2 (sorry I cant remember without looking it up) with a 100kg load and is suitable for industrial back up device and suitable for 2 people in a rescue scenario
@rajabrooks
@rajabrooks Год назад
Love it, as always. Off topic, but would you guys be up for a hardware store chain episode?
@tehrater480
@tehrater480 Год назад
I feel like he would want to because hardware store chain doesn’t have the same quality controls as rated chain?
@IRAfallon
@IRAfallon Год назад
Would love to see a test on the Soloist. If you can get your hands on one. No, you can't have mine.
@Clan501-Scotland
@Clan501-Scotland Год назад
Once I abseiled from a large concrete road bridge at night using head torches with my friend. I went first. Half way down I started swinging around on the rope. My friend followed me and we ran away from the scene. It wasn't until we got home I inspected the rope and it was 2/3rds shredded through from my swinging attempts. My friend had abseiled a 300ft bridge on a thread. I never told him a thing.
@tehrater480
@tehrater480 Год назад
Was it shredded from contact with the bridge?
@brettwebb5615
@brettwebb5615 Год назад
How about adding a wild country revo into that list of devices to test!
@sebmcdonald5562
@sebmcdonald5562 Год назад
Yes yes yes do the carabiner around a tree branch I’m so excited
@timwhite6287
@timwhite6287 Год назад
Is that Gibbs ascender not the 12mm + version? I think it is and if so, that is likely why it did so well on a smaller diameter rope than it’s designed.
@HS-qv3dh
@HS-qv3dh 11 месяцев назад
curious about the "CT roll n lock", which has ridges, but a bit sharper than the gibbs
@certaguada1784
@certaguada1784 7 месяцев назад
0:41 Roman test 0:48 Roman result 6.12 kN 0:50 Similar to Jumar Test 0:57 Jumar result 7.15 kN 0:59 Micro traction test 1:08 Micro trac result 7.15 kN 1:27 Gibbs test 1:35 Gibbs result 11.73 kN 1:40 GriGri test 1:50 GriGri result 8.78 kN
@bsstager3898
@bsstager3898 Год назад
there is a small chance that i have made or touched that rope he is using! It was a cool manufacturing process.
@felixbub7922
@felixbub7922 Год назад
another question. i dont know if you can get those in the US but edelrid makes some ropes with sheaths partly made out of aramid would be so interesting to see if those perform better than other ropes
@ericdoub5751
@ericdoub5751 Год назад
I own two of these Edelrid Swift Protect ropes, 70M x 8.9mm, bought in 2020 at REI Boulder. Yes, Ryan, please test one of these ropes with Aramid in the sheath!
@jasonbowers4388
@jasonbowers4388 Год назад
Try a portawrap as an anchor to test ropes at full strength (no knots).
@kitten-whisperer
@kitten-whisperer Год назад
I have never been rock climbing. I have zero interest in ever doing it but I watched this whole damn video for some reason lol.
@smau990
@smau990 10 месяцев назад
Is there somewhere a test on Beal Unicore ropes vs normal dynamic rope? Would seem like this is where one would shine. Or break instead of desheating.
@whitephoenix117
@whitephoenix117 Год назад
Love the more condensed format. A little more banter would be ok though. I think ~10min video would be perfect
@skillbugbeet
@skillbugbeet 7 месяцев назад
Is there a difference to how force impacts a rope when achieved dynamically (taking a TR solo fall with slack out) vs slowly/gradually (as in your tests)?
@davidwittouck2577
@davidwittouck2577 Год назад
I was looking around for a foot en knee ascender (arborist use)en do not love the idea/device's with te teeth just for the reason they going to be obvios hard on the rope. I find the NOTCH EQUIPMENT : NOTCH JET STEP FOOT ASCENDER and this one has cams instead of teeth. of course the question is how this device performs with its cams and the rest of its construction form. (in arborist use these are normally not going to take a fall (and the generated forces of a fall) on theme...) they are just to ascend you as a person and the material on you. (your body is protected against falling by another device). thanks for your many test and experiment work, learned a lot and sometimes go back to look at certain things again. Greetings David
@dapeach06
@dapeach06 Год назад
get a toothed ascender, or a Gibbs ascender. People everywhere used toothed ascenders and it does no rope damage so long as you're not taking whippers on it, which you couldn't on arborist rope anyway because your harness would break your back before the ascender de-sheaths the rope
@poigol5043
@poigol5043 Год назад
I'd love to see a tibloc tested against some of these jammers
@gravyblue
@gravyblue Год назад
I've got a rollnlock. It has grooves rather than teeth. I've just retired it when I discovered it won't bite on a weighted rope. Do you want it for testing?
@crankoneopen9222
@crankoneopen9222 6 месяцев назад
As and arborist I have been using a gibbs 4sb rope grab on a 3/4 inch bull line to pull over trees. After putting 3 guys on a 25:1 I started thinking about the breaking or slipping point?. I know an eye to eye will fail at this point. Please help!!!
@juliuskozlowski4283
@juliuskozlowski4283 Год назад
How about the Petzl croll ? It is often used as a toprope solo device
@Tactital
@Tactital Год назад
I wonder if the results would be different on ropes with permanent core + seath bond like the tendon tefix technology
@mitchellbaker4806
@mitchellbaker4806 Год назад
Grigri in the vertical, cache loop creates enough weight in the brake strand to prevent slipping is my understanding.
@rumblingstone731
@rumblingstone731 Год назад
Could you do a test on shock absorbers? I hear people say different things and didnt find answers in the manual myself.. when does the sewing in the shock absorber start tearing is my question... Via Ferrata slings are in the range of 40-120 kg, some tell me it starts to rip open on 120 kg, than ill assume the absorbica wich goes to 180 and 240 starts to rip open on respective loads!? I might be able to get hold on some old tearing slings wich i think is rated 50-120kg to send over
@pedrohack2869
@pedrohack2869 Год назад
Please test the climbing technology rollnlock
@totilsom
@totilsom Год назад
Kong Duck please test!
@maynardbulloch3769
@maynardbulloch3769 Год назад
Can you also test twin 6mm prusiks?
@michaelreader718
@michaelreader718 Год назад
the grandwall progress capture device would be cool to see tested. No teeth, just one point
@ClaskoTheKnight
@ClaskoTheKnight Год назад
Can you get a projector pointing down to display the graph in real-time?
@user-fb2oo7jg1w
@user-fb2oo7jg1w Год назад
thank you fo video.i like your hairstyle
@wmsatic
@wmsatic Год назад
Have you ever done a "stored in a closet" video measuring strength retention of unused equipment not exposed to sunlight? Or does equipment kept for emergency use need to be replaced even if unused?
@Hikergy16
@Hikergy16 Год назад
Depends on the gear, and the conditions of the area it’s stored in. Most climbing gear could last 20 years in a closet if cleaned before it’s next use.
@wmsatic
@wmsatic Год назад
@@Hikergy16 Any test results to confirm? Noting manufactures recommend 10 years or less for unused.
@Hikergy16
@Hikergy16 Год назад
@@wmsatic Manufacturers also recommend replacing your rope after 10 “hard whips”. Yet taking literal hundreds of whips is totally fine. It might go against their guidelines.. but….
@nickbirdseye1273
@nickbirdseye1273 Год назад
have you ever tested a soloist? I just picked one up and am curious about its strength.
@Leeeeegion
@Leeeeegion Год назад
The one that slowly slipped seems like the best bet, since you would just be slowly slipping down and could grab the wall with something
@jamesnemenyi
@jamesnemenyi Год назад
What about devices without teeth or ridges? Like the petzl shunt or grandwall uascend?
@kevybost
@kevybost Год назад
Add the clips channel to your "channels" section on youtube
@jordanlewis3790
@jordanlewis3790 Год назад
If you are still taking device recommendations perhaps the dmm buddy 100 too
@DeadlyPlatypus
@DeadlyPlatypus Год назад
Curious about the Notch Jet Step.
@Version135
@Version135 Год назад
It has cams like the gibbs but yeah I have one too and would love to see it.
@AquaticBubble
@AquaticBubble 2 месяца назад
Wondering how much that one time max stress relates to continuous lighter wear in terms of wearing out the rope.
@thekodanator
@thekodanator Год назад
Obviously there are PLENTY of uses for old rope buuuttt... Does anyone have any good ideas on where I might get my hands on retired rope? I'd like to use it for a crochet project!
@clydeharrelson
@clydeharrelson Год назад
New studio is looking wicked! Nice work.
@richardcorfield9926
@richardcorfield9926 Год назад
Is the failure mode here the rope sheath itself failing? If this thing is gripping the sheath not the core (unlike a knot which involves the whole rope) then maybe it's just that the sheath is doing all the work?
@johndave8017
@johndave8017 7 месяцев назад
Would be interesting to see a petzl shunt tested as it doesn't have teeth.
@PathofCultivation
@PathofCultivation 2 месяца назад
Is is possible that the microtraxion would brake before shredding the rope?
@joeyebeling7681
@joeyebeling7681 Год назад
Link the new channel in the "Channels" tab on RU-vid, please!
@phkit420
@phkit420 Год назад
Would it make a difference having a ohm in the system ?
@MissDerpinaTrollsen
@MissDerpinaTrollsen Год назад
Hi HowNOT2! Is there a way to calculate the force generated by a falling climber onto their gear? I wish to get over my gear fear and knowing approx how much I generated would perhaps help me.
@tehrater480
@tehrater480 Год назад
He has some videos taking falls with force measuring devices that you can use to estimate. Hard is easy also has some. If helps, the forces a climber can generate while single pitch sport climbing (~8 kN if you weigh more than 250 pounds) will never be enough to break properly rated climbing gear that’s in good condition! The danger comes from other things, mostly human error! Use your gear right and you can trust it, be skeptical of and always try to improve your skills and knowledge.
@mitchellbaker4806
@mitchellbaker4806 2 месяца назад
Did they end up testing the Camp Lift?
@matiascamprubi-soms7719
@matiascamprubi-soms7719 Год назад
If you haven't gotten a Harken Ninja, I would donate one for testing.
@jacksonreazin6042
@jacksonreazin6042 Год назад
Could you add a Trango Cinch to the list? It’s more than likely going to slip.
@dragonbutterflys
@dragonbutterflys Год назад
at 4:20 he talks about testing a "diverter" with a rope and carabiner sinched. Has anyone seen this video? I can't find it.
@LaurentiuAnghel
@LaurentiuAnghel Год назад
All the devices (except the Gibbs) pull directly on the sheath and it breaks at around 5 kN, leaving the core intact. I guess you'd get a much higher result if you used a Unicore rope.
@tristanlasley8030
@tristanlasley8030 Год назад
Seen the Instagram Wild country test, thank you for that, I thought it would be less likely to shred a rope. Lol it's not😂🤣
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