As a Trailer mechanic and former truck driver for more than 24 years of experience, i will recommend to check that cross members are not bowed or rusted out, dipping on the floor means the cross members are bowed, also look for corroded bottom rails, and for truck drivers do not drive with the tandems all the way to the back when you're loaded, this will cause severe damage to the floor and crossmembers, check the bearings end play in this video, those hubcaps with black grease needs to be change with the wheel seals of course( i recommend stemco discovery not stemco voyager) in our shop we supposed to change it every year when the hub is filled with grease. 🙏
Trailer mechanic here. You’ve got the Meritor RHP11 suspension there. A word from someone who has work on many of these; the upper control arms (dog bones) are something to watch out for. When the bushings start wearing out on them, they start to groove the inside of the side plates. They are very expensive to to repair and replace. Also, the Wabash MBE2 abs system, like you have here, is a pain to get parts for. If you have the opportunity to switch it out for a Meritor/Wabco system, it may be worth it money wise.
I have translucent food grade trailer. Never had an issue other than leaks lol. My trailer is 10x the trailer that is and its a 08 which I never had an issue with it being over 10 yrs old. I have done many food places. Empty aluminum cans with the tops off them with my roof. All they care about is smell, leaks, and cleanliness.
Installing vents will also add to the versatility. You will be able to haul watermelons, pumpkins, and onions out of south Texas during the cooler months.
3:06 the hub caps has a nut with a red turkey timer on it. That is popped out. Witch tells me the axle has been over heated at one point. I'm not sure if the problem has been solved yet but if it has been solved they repair person should have changed out the heat indicator but on the hub. The turkey timer deal just tells me it's been hot and needs service. It can be the breaks, the hub low on oil. Or the bearings.
I always try to buy from a individual because they know more about the history of the trailers. I just recently bought some from a dealer and if you get a good deal at a dealer seems to be a reason why.
problem with wood sides are the can contaminate the load with wood bits so if its packaged there is no problem but if your hauling in bulk it can be. Other benefits is the wood is weaker and some shippers wont load you if the need to push against the walls to load you.
If I were to use the dry van say a 32' - 34' for slant load 4 horse trailer and room for a wagon, tack room and living quarters up front . What dry van would you recommend. Thank you.
10 year or newer? bro that's the dumbest shit i've ever heard. we have vans, tankers and flatbeds, some of them are as old as 1950! and they're still fine, we just maintain them. that's funny as hell a shipper is going to only load certain types and ages of trailers lmao.
Obviously you have never seen an oversized forklift with a clamp at a paper mill go through the floor. The winter road chemicals in the rust belt do a real nasty job on the crossmembers.
I have a 08 wabash translucent roof, swing doors, spring ride, beefed up side rails and floor joists, etc. got it for 10k off a local guy in the heat of the price gouging pandemic. Put 8k into it already with new tires and alcoas and rear barn doors. Sand blasted and painted. Been a good trailer over the past yr.
@@MrCOREY2000 air bags provide a smoother ride, but like I said I have never been asked what suspension is on my trailer by any customer...if you check on the trailers used by the big companies like “Schneider” or “swift” or “Werner” etc their trailers are spring auspension