Unplug the trailer. Put a meter on the brake pin. If there is a delay its the truck controller. The voltage at the pin should be the same using controller or brake pedal.
If the brakes respond immediately to the hand control but pedal has delay, its in your truck. Theres only one circuit for the brakes. Haven't had a ford, but ram and gm both modulate brake voltage relative to pedal pressure.
When you have 4+ people (dealership, trailer company, and two guys in this video) who deal with trucks and trailers and nobody knows theirs a difference between electric brakes and electric hydraulic breaks. Standard electric brake mode will only sorta work with electric hydraulic breaks. Its a setting in the truck that needs to be changed. (unless it doesn't have the option in which case its time for new aftermarket controller)
I would definitely say there is something going on in the truck. Between the brake controller and the brake pedal. If it was the trailer you would have the same delay either way foot pedal or brake controller.
Go into your trailer "brake type" menu on the dash and switch it to hydraulic. There are different trailer brake controller profiles depending on the setting.
or he needs to turn gain up on controller foot pedal controllers pwm from what you have it set to manaul pushing it gives it a full 12volt but your write if ppl cant understand trailer breaks they shoudnt be towing one
first thought, not wiring, its the controller. because the brakes work, means the wires are correct, but its a timing issue, id look at the controller.
Electric over hydraulic brakes require power to run. Pressing the brake lever on the controller is sending 100% braking power (voltage) to the trailer. When depressing the brake pedal it is sending proportional power (voltage) to the trailer based on the number setting on the controller. If the trucks brake controller is not set to use EOH brakes, the controller does not know it needs to send more power to the trailer. Check the break-away battery on the trailer as the electric hydraulic pump uses that for its power source. The brake wire from the truck just tells the pump how hard to pump the hydraulic fluid based on the power (voltage) it receives from the truck. I would also check all ground connections for currision and/or loose connection.
Stan it sounds like the electric over hydraulic actuator has gone out from corrosion on the trailer phone up the manufacturer of the trailer and get a new actuator that’s what Technical Tim and Alex should have done from the start instead of taking it to a trailer shop that screwed up the trailer until you call Diamond C that trailer is out of commission it will catch fire the way it is
I know on Fords integrated brake controller you can somewhere in the dash settings from EOH (electric over hydraulic) to regular magnetic electric. Could be the issue?
Hey Stan, I want to say thanks for all the videos! I just ordered a Chore Warrior wheelbarrow from Tom and Ward- absolutely stand up guys to work with 🙂
Stan no expert on the issue I would say check voltages output trailers controller basically a dimmer switch more power more brakes and always check for proper grounds not having a good ground can make things work and do weird things
@Stanley “Dirt Monkey” Genadek it sounds like the older trailer brake controller on the trucks doesn’t have the voltage to start the brake pump like yours. so it takes 7 seconds on the fords because as the gain ramps in it finally gives it the needed voltage to activate and run as the gain setting up. it goes immediately to full in the test because it goes full voltage to lock the brakes no gain The probable Short answer you probably don’t have enough voltage at low gain on the fords so crank the gain until it ramps like yours or triggers immediately or you didn’t configure the controller to hydro brakes
Hey Stan, I don’t know what year Alex’s truck is, and obviously I don’t know what all you guys have tried, but in my 2011 F250 6.7 there is an option in the dash to switch between electric or electric over hydraulic brakes. If I hit the “setup” button on the steering wheel 6 times it takes me to “TBC Mode” and I have the options of selecting “Electric” or “EOH” using the “reset” button. Hope that helped?
I don't know anything about if you have any settings on the dash that you can change so I can't speak for that. However from the behavior that I saw it seems to be trying to PWM the brake controller and the brake controller is not liking it you can probably override this behavior by hooking up the brake lights to the brake controller actuator in the trailer wiring but it would break at full power anytime the brake lights come on not the best solution but it's the only thing I can think of based on the behavior I saw
You have to check voltage at the connector on the truck. You need to see the voltage difference between manual and brake pedal on both trucks, and use that info to apply voltage to the trailer to see where the problem is.
sid you check if your brake switch on the pedal react immediately as soon as you press the brake .it nmeeds the imput of braking to apply the brake on the trailer
Some of the “older” factory trailer brake controllers can’t really connect to electric over hydraulic brakes. Try an after market that has electric over hydraulic mode.
Hey Mr. Dirt Monkey, do you use both LMR Software and Jobber? If would you mind explaining how these software's assist your company, I'm looking to use them in my company and just want to see how they will assist me as they both look the same on paper?
Have to be moving to have the brakes work from the pedal It’s proportional. It’s the brake controller When you squeeze you activate. When you push the brake pedal and not moving the longer you hold the pedal and not moving it will ramp up
The brakes in the new trucks are proportional to the pedal. Look at the display and see if it shows a delay on the out put bolts the same as the delay of the brakes
On my truck I have a aftermarket brake controller an it slowly applies the brakes to full and if I squeeze it’s full break but if it’s pedal it takes a few seconds unless I plant my foot down. But that seems a long time on his truck.
Rule Number 1 for trailer wiring. If it is acting weird start looking for bad Ground connections. The weirder the behavior, the more likely the ground is involved.
I had a trailer with electric over hydraulic brakes (Dexter if I remember correctly). The brake manufacturer stated that they were not compatible with the factory brake controller. This was when the factory controller was a new option (may be different now). I had to buy an aftermarket controller to use with that trailer. I’ll never have electric over hydraulic again. More trouble than it’s worth in my opinion.
Hey Stan- I have a job lined up this summer which requires launching boats and driving trailers. While I am a very qualified boat captain, I have never driven a truck and trailer, as we hire the company I’m working for to launch our boats and store them. While I’m sure they will provide adequate training, what tips would you have for me?
Make sure the boat is cinch down to the trailer make sure your tow chains are crossed and can clear the ground by at least 6 inches plug your lights in and test them make sure your emergency brake to your trailer is not Tangled in your tow chains or trailer lighting cord make sure your latch that locks the ball to the trailer is pinned as secure never make sharp turns always go wider than you would think have a spotter to help you back up until you become familiar with that task sometimes you have to even check yourself if you do not have a spotter drive at 55 and this one is controversial some say if your fishtailing you should speed up I have found to lay off the throttle and come to a slower pace but I've actually done both I have spent up for a second to get the vehicle straight with the trailer and then lay off the gas till it corrects itself fishtailing is one of the worst things that can happen to you when you are driving a truck and trailer if you don't know what that means it's the tail of a dog shaking the dog instead of the dog shaking the tail and if you don't know what that means the trailer starts steering the truck instead of the trucks steering the trailer 😮
Practice heh. Check mirrors frequently. If backing "steer towards the danger"....e.g. if you are back and you see the driver side of the trailer approaching something like a curb, turn the steering wheel towards the curb to begin to correct. Or do a pull up. Always back slowly and remember the longer the trailer, the more distance you need to travel for your steering inputs to take affect, so you're always moving slowly and steering deliberately and with small inputs.
@@seandonaghy9224 thank you for the tips. Luckily, I will only be hauling the boats from the ramp to a shed less than a mile away, so I shouldn’t be going faster than 25mph, so hopefully I can avoid the fish tailing. I think that you are likely right, it’ll just take practice to get the fines down, all the other stuff seems pretty intuitive and simple…but I like the tip regarding the longer the trailer, the longer it takes for input. I’m sure I’ll be thoroughly trained, and I think I’ll mostly be doing the boat end, but I wanted to have some knowledge to go off en eq art m training. This video regarding trailers prompted the question lol.
Hey Stan love the videos ..I don't know if anyone's asked the question yet.. but have you thought about adding Dimond c to the wall..keep up the good work.
If Tim's truck, and Alex's truck are doing almost the same thing with the brakes on the trailer, then maybe it's something with the Ford controller, or uncombable software. I'd be very curious as to what company they used to design the brake system ( Ram, GM, Ford)
