I'm an alignment tech. The shop I worked at was owned by an old man. He taught me to do this using ComeAlongs or ratchet straps. It's cool to see it done another way... Old man retired and I moved on to another shop. They've never heard of the subframe being shifted to make small changes to caster or even camber on car.
I got a 2013 ford explorer limited I've changed booth front and rear control arms because I was told they couldn't align it until then. Still can't get someone to align the rear. I have negative camber going on in the rear. I was told by ford that the way to adjust the camber is the link under the sub frame. Is this correct?
@@johnwahlers3363 I don't know this vehicle off of the top of my head, I'd have to see the underbody... But in this situation on many vehicles there is an adjustable rear control arm available. With this they can get it done.
I practice this metod for camber corection. Most European cars do not have camber correction and when someone reinstal front subframe there is always a drama. Also use steelbar and put pressure litle by little until left and right become the equivalent.
Ayooo😂 my car needs this it got rear ended and the right side subframe might have moved an inch forward compare to the other side making the car track sideways.I’m hope the oem training arm was bent and nothing serious if not it the option below ⬇️ Edit:I’m trying to use a adjustable trailing arm to make both tires even to see if it fixes it.
@@daleharper7016 some say to use the spare tire toolkit rod, but all of mine don't fit, and I have the tire irons (well they are made of alumnium) from B6 A4/S4 B5 A4/S4 96-02, A8 D2, A8 D3 etc you get the point. I had no luck. And there is multiple revisions. Maybe I need to know the part number of makers of the iron, cause theres a few.
Wow! This is an automobile chiropractor, it doesn’t seem like paying $100 to $150 for wheel alignment is worth it, I’d rather do it myself at home, if the subframe pins are loose I guess the alignment won’t last
i have a 18 cherokee on our hunter rack waiting for me in the morning, cant seem to find a good spot for my pry bar to give the subframe a good yank, fore/aft and upper bolts all loosened, was hoping for a better angle at where your prying
how do you correct negetive camber of the rear wheel.only my rear right has negetive camber the rear left is perfect as ai remember reversing the car against a platform or sidewalk when my rear right wheel banged.I checked of my axle beam bish 2as damaged it's perfect, ai was asked to look for a bent shock if the shock isn't bent then look into the axle beam itself are there any adjustments for correction of rear negetive camber. ai wasn't to make sure if there are any. God bless you.
Seems to me that if you do NOT loosen the subframe bolts and just go to yanking on it and it does get "right" on the machine... the very first bump on the road is going to put it right back to "pre-snatch" alignment and it'll be driving crooked again within a few blocks!!!
He is moving the Camber bolt 🔩 it's a b.tch to move lol. Also if you think it's the subframe he's moving watch again and then pull up the Rear suspension for ..... diagram you'll see every part holding it together
