When Is It Ok For Fashion Designers To Copy? 

I totally agree with you. Copying for the sake of only duplicating and passing it off as one’s own is unethical and not creative. Copying to learn and being inspired on one’s way to discovering one’s aesthetics is another.

I'm an artist and I can say there's no way to learn without copying. Every artist starts by copying. Adding yourself to it comes later, once you've learned the techniques and understood the fundamentals you can play and create. We stand on the shoulders of giants.

It's frustrating that people can't seem to differentiate between direct copy & inspiration. Everything we see today was inspired by something else. Ownership is a myth & I think people should learn to let go of this mindset that ideas can be owned because the same people that were copied at some point were also copying. As long as people are trying to understand & innovate what they're copying I think it's fine, that will lead to transformation of the artist. What isn't ok is when ideas are copied simply to make a profit & have no intention of understanding the art.

im surprised Virgil wasn't mentioned lol

copying for learning and growing is okay. when smart people copy they don’t copy the product they see in front of them but they trace what inspired the artist that made the product in front of them. keep tracing (copying) until you reach the main source. thats how you find (the knowledge you need) yourself.

We all get inspired but it’s really important to know what makes you inspired rather than what actually inspires you

its a similar principle with music, as no one can really copywrite chords or notes. However there's been instances where artists haven't given credit or payed royalties to music they've sampled. I guess you could apply a similar principle here by essentially suggesting fashion designers should make it clear who and where they draw inspiration from especially when talking about the "power dynamics". Again, great video man, really enjoying these discussions!

I'd say yes depending on how the inspiration was lifted. almost everything in art & fashion is inspired by something. if you're acknowledging your inspiration and giving credit to it; its fine by me. *cough* virgil *cough*

Rick Owens actually said once that he RIPPED OFF Vionet a lot and that he still does, lol))) This is a really great piece of advice from Mr. Yamamoto. The other day i was trying to make a copy of Dita von Teese piece af lingerie for myself but it ended up being completely different style and even construction is not identical. And this is with a piece of clothing as small as underpants. Imagine how much you can explore while trying to copy something more substantial. Don't be ashamed to copy, it's just a starting point for further exploration.

Mind blown by the fact that I agree with most of the comments. Copying is substantial for any creative process, and intrinsic to fashion making. I believe that standard fashion education pressures students to make new, authentic and original work, demonizing the act of copying, which often results in designer's block and "fear of the blank page"

Got an H&M ad, for a pair of jeans. Is this a sign that I will meet my soul mate. All I know is I can't wait to introduce her to Kiko

Love this take. Kinda goes back to this understanding that ideas are scarcely new and usually always are in some shape of form repetitions of already thought of things... I think when you really embrace that by copying as a form of homage you will sooner or later find yourself changing even the tiniest detail which will then result in a new outcome

lets argue: true originality doesn’t exist

I definitely agree with you very good points made and a perfect analogy, I have to say the power dynamic plays a massive role in this and like you said the exploration of smaller designers ideas is wrong!

I love your take on this! I actually appreciate art so much more when I find out the work that inspired it. To me, it’s all about giving credit to your influences and not trying to pass an idea off as 100% original. I think if you are an artist, you have to accept that some people may “copy” your work or your style, but you should take it as a compliment that you were an inspiration to them.

I think there are still room for originality and novelty. One day, we will see that original wham bam-big-bang fashion concept that will shift the paradigm again. I am such an optimist haha. It also boils down to intention, some designers derive work out of love and passion like what you said in the case of Demna to Margiela. However some designers blatantly copy ( with a dark intention) in a sneaky dodgy dirty way haha

That's interesting Bro, At first I thought that, NEVER should it be ok to copy another designer. I listened to you explain how and why it's ok in some instances. I was like Hmmmmm! that makes since. You are on point, once again. . That's why we listen to you. Your more than a fashion Blogger. FASHION GENIUS.

Like a great man once said, "Good artists copy, great artists steal." There is a lot to be learned from that. The same concept goes for art, science, technology, sports, almost every aspect of society that involves art or innovation. Anything involving a craft to be learned can directly relate to that quote.

I suppose in essence nothing is truly new or solely our own, since copying is key to any creative process and learning in general. Copying only seems repetitive, while in reality it's the basic way we evolve and move forward.

found your channel a few nights ago! really amazing man ... I’m learning so much.

*Virgin Abalone punching the air rn*

the point about power dynamics is so so crucial here! you're so right in saying that it's different for an upcoming designer who copies, vs an established one who does. amazing video ayo ❤️

Wow. Thank you for this! I was actually confused as to how I would react to this not-so-famous Filipino designer/couturer who made this really cute tulle gown and all it reminded me of is Giambattista Valli. So, I was like hmmm the dress looks cute but we all know it's very Giambattista-looking. For someone who is building his own name in fashion I was confused why would he copy someone else's work. So, now, I understand.

I think everyone should copy, see something you like and recreate it using your own taste and skills, you’ll eventually come up with something new. Idk why copying is frowned upon when nothing “original” really exists anymore. You have to copy to push boundaries. Also I loved what you said about power dynamics, great video!

copying is always ok the ideas werent anyones to begin with. ideas arent property. copying an idea does more than double it. copying doesnt even make sense as a concept. everything is a remix. and the wilco lyric: And if the whole world's singing your songs And all of your paintings have been hung Just remember what was yours Is everyone's from now on

Been busy haven’t been able to watch, but now I can Marathon all these videos that I missed.

Take an idea and creatively transform/change it to create an original piece.

Great context.. there’s a quite thin line between being inspired and copying.

amazing video man, keep the good content coming!

Well, after listening to the video, I must admit that I'm myself currently copying some designs to do my own stuff cause, if you take something qualitative and replicate it on a certain level, you're way more likely to obtain some great stuff at the end of the day. Moreover, Margiela used to do "Replicas" which became one if not the most popular thing within the brand. What's important in this discussion, is the genuine intention of the designer/creator, and when it is not clearly disclosed, it is then hard to judge correctly about one's designs I talk about it a lot, but I went to an exhibition in Paris in which in each room you'll find some Cristobal Balenciaga's work alongside Azzedine Alaïa's, and the inspiration is just crystal clear, even for any human being with two open eyes. Azzedine Alaïa worked for decades to master his craft before launching his own brand, and he took all his techniques from Madeleine Vionnet and Balenciaga, before finding his one style. Thinking about it, it makes me thing that's really a "Couturier" thing. I don't wanna be elitist but, it looks like designers who are on the "couturier" side of thing (if that means anything) are more keen to try copying others grand masters. By the way it's not pure fluke if we can draw a kind of family tree with Vionnet at the start and then finding Yohji, Alaïa, Rick and many other designers On that note, thanks Ayo for another great video, people who are reading this, just follow Ayo on Patreon (it's so worth it bruh), and think about buying his Tote Bag Merch

FYI Rick Owens worked at Michelle Lame’s factory where they used to copy designer clothes and sell it for less and I think that’s where Rick has come to find his own unique voice in fashion design

I think copying is what art and design really is at its core. Copy then build on it. The power dynamic is super important, I think giving people opportunities or giving them their credit is the best way when taking from smaller creators 🤷🏿‍♂️🤷🏿‍♂️

I mean there is always positives and negotiates towards it, I mean you have some designers literally taking smaller designers work, (apparently this happened with balenciaga taking/coping digital designs from art students for their digital collection) however, within the art of music, sampling and coping in my opinion isn't frowned upon and can create even better pieces of music. Which in turn in some cases is the same in fashion.

Hey I would have loved to see some examples. There are so many. Maybe a part 2 in which we look at good copies and bad ones?

Honestly aside from analyzing and learning. I strongly disagree with everyone saying copying should be okay and done most of the time, there's a lack of innovation because people are lazy about the design process now. And many people commenting have never tried to make something original

Diet Prada should take some notes....

Well said! You explain the power dynamic really well 👏👏

THE CASUAL has a great video on copying in fashion!!

Ayo. You really are encouraging my education bro. Thank you.

Channel in the beginnings(after the hats), started to copy and streamline Cheruit’s designs. Cheruit designs were still opulent, but less fussy with a knowing of the feminine shape; things Gabrielle Chanel would be attracted to.

kinda weird to add Virgil in the thumbnail next to demna and rick who, like you said yourself in the video, admit and acknowledge their inspirations while Virgil either flat out never responds to accusations (3D printed glasses idea from fan situation), OR presents something as his “true” inspiration but is clearly a REACH to avoid addressing the designers work that is painfully obvious as the real inspiration (claiming early 2000s MJs work for LV was insp when WVB 2018 was copied)

It’s been a min I have to play catch up on all your vids

As long as your making tht bag.

Reminded me of when Tarantino did Reservoir Dogs and at the beginning of the script he listed the film directors, actors and actresses where he got direct inspiration from to make the movie. But my question should be then: if or when a designer gets called out for copying x/y/z person should they already have a list or presentation of all the people, references or movements where they're getting it from or just release a 50 min documentary like how Galliano did with the latest Margiela shows where they show their creative thought process and research?

Yes!! Inspire yourself with references from others instead of just bluntly copying with no clue of the why the person did what they did.

To a certain extend, copying is essential for making sth your own in the future imo. Just like how we have to draw countless eggs before we are able to do decent portraits. I think it is a way to observe the details and slowly equip techniques required, while we collect traits that we are interested in and gradually develop into our preferred aesthetic. Most important thing is to own it, not copying it cuz thats fire but trying to make twists and find ones purpose. Took Picasso 3 years to draw like Raphael but a lifetime to draw like child. My Point is that you have to know what it actually is meaningful to yourself, illustrating your own definition of beauty. Rick boi here gonna say Jerry copy Rick hard, Jerry boi would say he took sth from Rick and add some American Varsity vibe.

"I'm just a copy of a copy of a copy..." Trent Reznor.Nin-"Copy of a"

Good points here

No it is not the whole point of a designer is to have your own ethos and response to the world around you that is what makes a good designer unique and revolutionary! Copy pop bs is the same stuff we've seen with no new ideas and no new direction.

Is it me or your French pronunciation (of which we don't really care actually) is getting better and better ? The Vionnet thing changed for good bruh (gonna comment after finishing to listen to the video)

They were so shady back in the day lmao but adding to what you are saying, what would Balenciaga's work be like if he didn't have the knowledge of the past and his present i feel like that's what makes his work transcendental

What I don’t understand is why big brands like Balenciaga can’t just work with smaller artist they like. Collaborate or put them in your design team, they have the means

if you understand french you should watch the video of rapidscrew about copy in fashion

another great video

been long since I watched ur vids

There is this ig: @insidethemood they feature current works and works from the past which inspired the author

Thank you for this constructive video.

Haven’t watched yet but this should be interesting

Love this

When Balenciaga copied Lonsdale with their creps, that was the point copying went too far

To paraphrase a movie of my formative years: The world would be a better place if people would just accept there's nothing new under the sun, and everything you can do with clothes has probably been done long before you got here.

Balenciaga did not "copy" Vionnet. He bought a license to reproduce her clothes for his shop, a common practice in couture in the first half of the 20th century.

Balenciaga, may have copied and studied designers designs to learn in his early career. Once he was established he had the techniques of other masters to let him be able to express himself creatively and technically. To me that is no different than going to school. Of course the difference with him is that you implied that he was selling the knock offs at one point.

miss the mick jenkins background music. good video nonetheless

🤣🤣🤣 I thought your inspiration for this vid was gonna be Virgil new show, cause everyone is going at him for copying others work

Now a days I think the real question is "when is it NOT okay to copy in fashion?"

the diet prada fan base needs to listen to this...

when is ok? now, doesn't matter.

Who tf disliked this video

If Virgil just told be in a interview yes I copy no one would care but he never says anything and he just justifies it for only doing the 3% on his designs just saying

“Copycat”

First

caucasian, not eastern European brotha

COPYING BLAVK DESIGNER IS WRONG.. be it black or white person.

Still think virgil is a disgusting monster, off white ss21 is peter do and denma's work, its literally replication with no acknowledgement.....very eww...sigh....will never wear that mans clothing...

Please do research when recreating something. Y’all might look great but what’s the point when you’re ignorant to what you’re recreating and the message being conveyed.

It's never ok to copy anyone. Copy yourself and make it beyond better..

Family guy meme: 🙏🙏🏻🙏🏼= Okay 🙏🏿🙏🏾🙏🏽=Not Okay

What is originality? Undetected plagiarism.

chill on the castilian spanish pronunciation my dude, its ok.

First