Thank you Birch Living for sponsoring! Click here birchliving.com/nicolerudolph to get 20% off your Birch mattress (plus two free Eco-Rest pillows!). So you can sleep as deeply as Bailey does! #birchliving
That outfit makes you look like a Batman villain in the best possible way. Your tailoring work is glorious to behold, and fascinating to see come together as always. I'd love to make a 1910s-20s era suit at some point (ambitions of dressing like a mobster) and it's good to know there are curvier options out there!
The color choices are impeccable!! Literally had to pick my jaw up off the floor and i absolutely adore the fit, as a nonbinary individual the idea if a brightly colored suit that is masculine but still nips the waist in and celebrates my hips sounds like a dream! I dont think my sewing skill are quite to tailoring levels yet but its great to keep in mind
I think the biggest change was that the darts were further towards the side, rather than under the chest. If you have a jacket that didn't cut the seams open (or one with no darts), it should be much more accomplishable to adjust those and see what happens!
I've been in the vintage menswear collecting community for several years. This era is crazy! The most extreme style is known as the Jazz Suit, and I know of only two or three surviving examples in private collections. The style actually stuck around until early 1924 when it was replaced with the broad shouldered and wide legged look of the mid 20s, which came in from England in November of that year. The crazy details like weird pocket flaps, odd pocket placements and fancy pleating are all continuations of the styles from around 1908 to about 1912. These were novelty styles popularized by young college-aged men and they were known as rah-rah suits. Rah Rah suits were incredibly long, boxy, curvy, and big shouldered. The late teens kept a lot of the details, but followed an even tighter narrower silhouette. Various degrees of this high waisted, long-legged cut could be seen until you got to the most old-fashioned, conservative styles worn by their father's generation.
As a woman whose preferred gender expression can lean more masculine-of-center, I adore when you do projects like these. It's a great look, and really encouraging to know there are ways to do this - accommodating the curves in the body without emphasizing them in a way that isn't comfortable or consistent with the message I want my clothing to send. You talk about the way we have to find jackets that fit the shoulders and hope our bodies can fit within the rest (and how that rarely flatters anybody) - lord, that's true for me, and I take a lot of hope from proof that it doesn't have to be that way!
This is such a fantasy villain outfit I love it. The fabrics of course are outstanding - I mean I knew there was no way you’d make a plain black wool tux but a violent magenta silk/wool with velvet lapels… fantastic. And the silhouette was surprising to me - I’d assumed that men’s version of a “curvy” silhouette is the 1930s/40s drape cut styles, but this seems like it would fit my own upside-down-triangle-broad-shoulders-no-hips body.
Now! I know why my collars and lapels are always wrong! Thanks so much! Fantastic tailoring! The colors gorgeous. Love these styles so much and the attention to detail, just impeccable.
This is STUNNING. You executed this wonderfully and that fabric is gorgeous. The masculine silhouette is something that interests me as a trans man who likes historical fashion. Because of my body, I struggle to wear modern men’s suits because I look drowned (I’m a dainty little lad) but womenswear so very much emphasises the bust or has a more pointed waist rather than a soft curve to the point it makes me dysphoric because it also doesn’t fit properly and emphasises things that societally give the first impression of ‘femininity’. Thus, I take refuge in historical styles that are masculine-curvy which might be more accommodating to my body while still suggesting ‘clear masculinity’ which is why the Romantic era is my favourite and this particular era which encourages curves before later silhouettes which feel entirely inaccessible and sometimes disingenuous for my own personal expression and sense of self. I feel like these curvier styles are significantly less popular even in the reproduction scene compared to more inverted triangle styles which is a shame but maybe one day I’ll make one haha. ❤
The combo with the chartreuse lining and shirt is FIRE! This is such a good look on you and I love the bold colour choices. And those angled pockets are just so much more natural to use than horizontal slits.
That colour is bright. However, I'm not one to talk, my long term tuxedo project is to find a black/dark-pink shot silk for my tuxedo. I wish I could afford NYDF and their Silk/Wool fabric, and they deigned to deliver outside of North America and the UK.
My goodness, that magenta silk-wool fabric is my absolute dream fabric!! The suit is stunning!! While I never would have thought to pair that lining with it, it's so fun! I love the whole thing!
Your videos are very calm and have a very easy pace. As someone who frequently gets motionsick from watching things (the kind that results in a bad headache and won't go away), and gets audio overwhelm, it's one of the few channels I truly enjoy and can also watch without fear of being made ill from watching. Even compared to other sowing, crafting and history channels. It's great. Also the coat is beautiful. Those fabrics! I wonder if similar methods could be used to make women's clothing that minimises the appearance of the bust, either for people who have large busts who for once don't want them to be the main focal point, as this seems like it would bring the focus more to the shoulders and hips, or for people who want something more gender neutral - something that straddles the gap a bit more than most women's suits seem to do - which tend to rely on feminine body shape to offer the "shapeliness", something not everyone has to the same degree.
*EXCESS FABRIC AT THE CLAVICLE AREA - CAUSE AND REMEDY* this is common and caused by the shoulder seam being the same length front and back - the tailor would know to add 5/8ths to the back seam when drafting. When sewn together the excess fabric on the back makes the seam curve and forms a HOLLOW at the front under at the clavicle / collar bone - see below for instructions ----> The rear of the shoulder seam needs to be 5/8th to 3/4 longer than the front and the 5/8ths needs to be "eased in" with 3 layers of basting thread each one halving the size of the last stitch to flatten the excess bult, this should then be steamed and pressed to shrink the fabric, then the seam can be machine stitched and the 3 basting threads removed. The 5/8ths - 3/4 should be divided equally at each end of the shoulder seam but the excess should only be eased in in the first 2/3rds of the seam closest to the arm pitch seam. This is a problem that almost ALL new tailors experience especially with historical patters - do the same with waistcoat shoulder seams as well so they fit tight in this area.
Thank you! 💕 Absolutely adored watching you create this gem. Your hand-work is so elegant and it's almost hypnotic to watch your hands and fingers go from stitch to stitch. Like ballet. You nailed the colors as well. Very striking on your complexion. One of my favorite color combos on you.
So calming watching you hand stitch and appreciated the detailed analysis of men's tailoring. I love learning something new! And excellent editing and music btw.
there is nothing about this that is not stimmy to the max. also learned a ton in under 30 mins! my immediate reaction to the reveal at the end was 'holy crap I need this!' and the COLOURS.
I am completely stunned, this is SO beautiful, so well made! I love those colours and I have been wishing I could make a suit for myself some day, and ... this is just so impressive it made me babble 😂
*YOU PITCHED THE SLEEVES* into the shoulders with absolute perfection - that fabric is SO unforgiving for the shoulder, amazed you dong have UUUUUUU all the way around.
Great looking suit, Nicole! Your thoughts of padding out the upper chest below the collarbone reminds of the sections of 19th century tailoring manuals that cover "unusual shapes", like being pigeon-breasted, hollow-chested, or having a hunch. As to the stereotypical notion of menswear having frozen since the last quarter of the 19th century, I have to pass along a funny bit of theatrical business. I have friends in the SF Bay Area in the vintage dance troop Danse Libre. As part of one of their performances, they had fashion plate parades, starting at 1810, and then showing a new silhouette/outfit every decade until 1940. This is first done with women's evening wear during the first dance intermission, followed by men's evening wear in the second intermission. For women's clothing, you can easily imagine the kinds of clothing being shown, the change in sleeve bulk, the fit of the bodices, the width and support structures for the skirts, and so forth. When it's time for the men to come out, they began with someone in typical Jane Austen ball clothing: knee breeches, long vests, etc. But instead of a new model in a new outfit for 1820, they swapped out the vest and jacket. For 1830, a new model does come out, wearing long trousers. Then that person proceeds to stay on stage through to 1900, changing his pose every decade, while people come on to change his hat, cravat, waistcoat, and jacket. At 1900, we finally get a new model, but he also stays around to 1940, only changing hats and jackets. I don't know if there's video of this on the internet, but it's worth watching to a fashion historian.
When you opened the jacket and revealed the lining 🤩 and then the velvet cuff lining too…. Very very well tailored. I love the attention to detail and the richness was of the fabric. Must be so nice to wear clothing made like it should be! Great job!!!
Turned out fabulous.😻😻😻 I was worried when I saw curvy in the title but it doesn’t look feminine at all 😻 it looks dashing and handsome, the velvet cuffs are excellent. That style would look good in any jewel tone with the complimenting colors and the velvet touches. Bravo 👏
What a gorgeous work of art! Your channel is fascinating!. Your choice of fabric sets the suit off perfectly. Love that the lining matches the blouse. Thank you so much for sharing the experience. I understand that there are places in the world - Hong Kong, for one, where bespoke suits and dress shirts can be purchased for a relatively low cost.
I'm so impressed with your meticulous work. Having made a number of vintage and vintage-inspired men's suits, I really enjoyed watching this tuxedo take shape.
I love this, Nicole!! You’ve constructed a beautiful jacket in a divine colour. You’re so very talented and I love watching you create things from scratch. I’d love to see you collaborate with The Closet Historian. You’re my favorites! Thanks again for sharing. Xx Jen
That suit is amazingly fitted with the silhouette and tailoring absolutely exquisite. I hope that suit and its creator get invited to a gala as it needs to be seen in party format. I would add statement (HUGE + GLITTERY) earrings in black and maybe pull hair back with a black jeweled comb. Not sure about the shoes, but fuchsia (that is what the material looks like on my aged screen) heels would be gorgeous.
I do like the suit jacket - I love the maroon velvet touches against the shine of the suit. It is surprising how smooth and clean the outer suit is - when we know how much work is going on underneath with padding and shaping - but above is beautifully clean - even the area you pointed out as wanting add padding to - I looked carefully and there was no dibot or crease.
Reminded me of the color season video: "Magenta should be suppressed. Only a dazzling beauteous being could survive the uglifying effect of this depraved color..." I think Nicole pulled it off, especially when paired with that brilliant chartreuse!
I love everything about this, the only thing that I'd change is the pocket. I'd rather the lapel overlap the pocket square than have seem like it's in the arm pit. Such a lovely suit and the colors are chef's 💋!
It's so fun watching you tailor clothing because of the precision and neatness of your sewing. I only sew for quick fixes, and everything I do is slapdash...so it's good to see nicer work as a motivator.
I absolutely loved this, Nicole! And you look absolutely smashing in it! You do the best tailoring videos. I find myself coming back to watch them again and again to study how you’re doing things.
What a wonderful informative video. I always loved these hourglass styles for men. Especially since seeing some of Bunny Rogers suits. Your choice of colour for the outer layer and the lining are simply magnificent.
Looks beautiful! I enjoyed watching your deft hand work. Love the perfect pick stitches. I wonder how you’d look in that jacket with a taller shirt collar. Also, you are correct, not really a feminine silhouette at all.
lol love how 9:30 in you causally say a silken wool, (cashmere) eh yasss queen 👑 also it’s given me final season of last 2 episodes of marvelous Mrs Maisel/ would like to see you’re take on a quilted style jester/ harlequin coat
I love the fabric and the colour. It does tend to draw the eye to places you do not really want as every shadow is visible. Overall, a perfect you make.
Gorgeous! The suit seems to fit you really well and totally echoes those drawings of the fashionable man of the era. I agree--it's not feminine at all while still being very curvy. You nailed it!
Wow that is stunning, I love the color choices so much. Even though I'll probably never do any tailoring, I'm fascinated by your tailoring videos. It's such an interesting process, and I love how everything makes sense and works together to make a structured garment. Keep up the good work!
