The forged wire strippers 13-72-8 has small circular hole in the jaws that is smooth which is used to put a hook in the wire. You place the bare copper end about half way on the jaw and close and bend your hook. The smooth surface will not damage the wire.
start your strip at an angle and square it up after you close them. this starts the separation easier and you dont have to fight pulling the insulation away.
The forged strippers have a notch for bending loops in the head if you look closely. I've been using them for 6 months and the forged are perfect for installing switches and plugs. They have cutters, strippers, splicing heads, loop benders and 6-32/8-32 bolt cutters that don't require to be threaded to make a clean cut. The cutters are strong enough to use on 8-3 romex or 4awg single. Very expensive though
Im upgrading to the forged strippers from a milwaukee 6 in 1 stripper. I used the bolt cutting holes to roll my wire into perfect J hooks everytime. I am excited to see if I can replicate that with these, as I find it more consistent and faster to bend J hooks faster than way than to use the head to bend it
Hey you got a few things incorrect here: if you look at the eauropena version (metric) the two wire stripping holes say 0.7mm-1.5mm which is 20awg to 14awg. Then the larger hole say 2.5mm that’s 12awg. Also the strippers have an indent in the upper jaw for making wire loops.
Great review. I really wish Knipex added front teeth to 6 to 1 plier. Then it could have replaced a needle nose. As of now, it looks like a needle nose, but it cannot replace a needle nose because it cannot pull anything because of the smooth surface.
@6:43 the forged one with the more wire stripping option can also bend the wire. At the tip there is a smooth wire cutout. Pinch the wire there and twist left or right.
Hell yeah! There you go! Thanks for the comparison, I've been debating on those forged wire strippers for a while now. A couple observations/questions (on the forged stripper): Isn't the little notch near the tip of the jaws for gripping wire without damaging it? Or making a loop?, also, have you tested the reaming capabilities of it? Lastly, linemans get inevitably used as a little hammer to bang on screwdrivers, pound down the bends on sheet metal, etc. Do they have enough heft or durability to do that?
I bought these to replace my milwaukee needle nose wire stripper but I was shocked to see that the fit and finish of these were far worse than the milwaukee which costs less than half the price. it was a big disappointment!
The forged wire strippers would be perfect if they had cross-hatched teeth and there was an insulated version. A more refined version of the Milwaukee 48-22-3078.
Installation pliers are more for residential. The heavier ones are for industrial / commercial usage, just imagine wiring up a few boxes and a light switch with the big ones- overkill. But imagine wiring up a kiln outlet and breaker panel in a pottery shop with the little ones - useless. It's the home owner that will buy the big ones when only needing the little ones if he's too ambitious. But what we all wanted to see, was these suckers cut through aluminum clad 12//2 with the jacketed ground and then trim the armor. Then abuse them on steel armored cable just to see.
As an automation engineer who has to wear all of the hats at times, I have both of these tools (VDE handles for the installation pliers) and they both are worth their weight in gold. With that being said, the installation pliers are the ones that go in my pocket when I’m not sure what I may need to carry with me while I’m digging through an attic; they’re an excellent jack-of-all-trades that does about 85% of what I need it to do. The super strippers cut a lot cleaner and are significantly sharper, however they’re spring loaded and make stripping 22ga and 24ga a nightmare because the feedback on the handles is crushed by the spring force. If I’m having to strip down a trunk of stranded 14/4 speaker cable? I’m reaching for my super strippers. If I’m having to be contorted in an attic to splice into a romex run to add power somewhere that only I would need it, then land a control cable on the thing I just put in? I’m taking my install tool so I have less stuff to drop or snag on rafters.
I have had I don't know how many pairs of generic strippers. Always kind of crappy, I've never cared about a pair. This pair is calling to me. I want a small yet capable "Putter around the house" pouch. This belongs in it. By having a competent plier, with strippers, with the best screw cutter available I can have 1 set of pliers in there that can do so much for basic home maintenance.
the 82 pliers have a smooth wire groove in it meant for looping plier, though it can't grip the same way as the 82"s. Either way, that's a big difference you missed. Spent an hour showing stripping each gauge wire, yet you miss that.
I don't understand why the 13 32 8 are not spring loaded. If you take it apart the the hole is there for the spring. All that is missing is the actual spring.
@@Tre16 The only things I can think of is if you have to strip a live wire and maybe you need to use the flat tip of the insulated version of 13-82-8 to pull, hold or move a live wire. On paper, the 13 72 8 is the only tool anyone would ever want and need, especially if he doesn't work on live wires.
They do. The knipex ergostrip strippers for data cables and coaxial cables. The split, strip and score multi wires and single small communication wires. It’s for CAT5-CAT8 stuff and coax.
@@davereed6612 Bro that's nothing like the forged strippers in this video. The ones like in this video would allow me to cut banana cable, strip awg from 18-24 (if it were low voltage sized strippers) and then crimp down b-connectors (Beanies) with the flat-headed ends on the top.
