WHICH LS SWAP ENGINE MOUNTS DO I USE? 

Great video! Thanks for the explanation on the mounts. Love that you take the time to give detail to those of us just starting out.

These engine block side mount cups have more going on than some may know. The “Clam-Shell” mount mentioned was GM’s first true safety mount that is surrounded by metal so it can not come apart. FMVSS change requirement. Keeps the engine from coming forward and out during a collision. The thru bolt makes it easy to install or remove but it has front and rear cut angles in the plate. These actually rest on metal bars cast in place inside the clam-shell mount. The “V” shape stamping he ground off is a gusset increasing the strength of the factory attachment point. The metal bars these rest on are to aid in cushion from vibration and complements the thru bolt mount. It is a engineered system.

Looking forward to another live stream might be able to catch it live this time

lol 5th time is the charm . the "factory original exact location" you speak of requires the 1" setback, in order to put the bellhousing and driveshaft in the OEM location. when i adapted my mounts, i didn't use any plates at all. i just drilled the clamshell and bolted it on. i made a video about the $0 DIY adaptation.

When putting on mounts use a measuring tape with the swap and measure 3-4 times. Sbc is longer than a LS block and consider your trans, oil pan , crossmember , and yoke. Happy building fellas😊

Very helpful video! Exactly what I was wondering about those adapter plates. Thanks

You mention the Avalanche getting the “Corvette” type servo” great. Although long done, the “Superior” automatic cover, 4th and 3rd servo are much larger in surface area for holding power in the 4L60e or 700R4 if you have one or harvest an older one. 87-89, 700R4 have torque converter lockup, but computer controlled. These have locations in the valve body that contain plugs. If removed, a kit sold by Transgo “LU” comes with the valves and selection of springs to allow lock up which depending on spring choice, set the speed this occurs at as long as TV line pressure is not high as to represent WOT or a downshift. So, no wires or vacuum switch to toggle switch on dash or console that no one knows what it does. I am rebuilding a 67 C10 and chose to divorce cooling to a under mount cooler with fan. To know the temperature by gauge, I got a small yet easy to read to mount in the console. The sensor is a two wire bulb type and using a VB bolt, placed it inside the pan on a bracket. It is grounded internally but uses one un-use wire passing thru the case. The sensor is a lifetime PTC thermistor (Positive Temp Coefficient) that internal resistance goes down, the warmer it gets. So no line mount, clip-on device to cooling line out or return as a lot of debate goes on here. A/C condensers designed for R134a that are high efficient types are using extruded tubing that is flat. Inside, the have 10) 1 X 1mm square holes that effectively allow excellent heat transfer. In A/C systems this removes more latent heat as R134a carries more BTU’s of heat per pound than R12. This is why these systems use less of a charge, roughly 20% less. I got a new one with fan from an import that is narrow and longer than full sized vehicles. Look at the tubes, if thinner than a matchbook, this is a winner. It mounts under the bed with ducted screen and scoop for ambient air. A $6 dollar controller with a 10 amp relay built in, reads in F or C and allows to set ON temp and OFF temp. 2.5” tall and 4” wide allows for console mounting at the back (Almost Directly Over The Automatic) and the sensor bulb is metal. Passing thru the floor with a rubber grommet allows it to inserted into the fins in between the coils. No lines to the radiator rare needed. I chose a 20 amp relay to operate it while placing a forward biased diode N4004 across the fan wires with the marked end on the positive side as a clamping diode when the fan is of as it becomes a generator. Best luck to your project. Just research products for simplicity and longevity and don’t forget to take photos, use factory connectors, dielectric grease inside all things electrical and use the “KISS” engineering discipline when designing, plus make a wiring diagram to stay with the car. DK, retired ASE master tech

About to put a 5.3 in a 3rd gen for a friend 🙂

Those mounts are great ran the same ones on my old 5.3 firebird project,no issues I didn't grind the hump on the mount I was lazy just used washers to space it out and dab of lock tight .no issues with the lsx innovations stuff price vs quality and performance good stuff.

No boring at all thanks.

Also they sell mounts that slide back and forward

Thank you for showing me that you been a big help to me

I'm using his adjustable adapter plates on my truck. I may be a little over the 450hp limit lol

My preference would be to heat up the raised area and press or pound it down until it is flush with the rest of the surface. I believe it would be stronger but probably wouldn't make any difference

That guitar tone in ur into is tight af

ive bought several and given away several sets they work well

Awesome video, hoping to make it for the live feed, will chime in from work if i have to

Thank for Link going to need a set for project need to get going for last one project for me and my grandpa kind of thing

I have a 76 postal Jeep I’m going to put a 350 sbc in it. How do I know exactly where the motor would need to sit etc?

excellent explanation and demonstration, thank you

Any thoughts on the tubular mounts? I’m looking at getting a set of those.

Helpful video thanks!

when an LS engine revs which way does the surge in Torque wanna pull or rotate the engine? does it wanna twist away from the passenger side mount or twist away from the drivers side engine mount? Cuz i bought a similar set of adjustable Ls swap motor mount adapter plates off amazon, , they were 5 star rated but did NOT SEEM to fit all that well. Some of the bolts were too long and bottomed out in the block BUT THE REAL KICK IN THE BALLS is that after spending 3 hrs trying to finaggle a tight engine into the Gbody i have, i find out my passenger side oil pan sits about 3/8 inch lower and is rubbing on the crossmember and thats without the mounting bolt in place cuz the holes are about 2/3 of a hole out of wack. So anyways i managed to get the part off the motoromount off the crossmember. if i stick a 1/4 " thick plate under the entire clamshell is it? then it levels out enough i can at least get a piece of tin between the oilpan and crossmember. So i need to know which way the engine twists under torque so i know how extensively i need to weld or bolt this passenger side mount? if its gonna twist into the passenger side mount im ok with a sketchy weld job but if its gonna twist away i may be forced to pull the motor and start all over.

dont buy PODOY, one of mine is out 2/3 of a bolt hole and that side the passenger, also the OILPAN sits right on the crossmember. now i gotta raise it up off crossmember and fab up and weld in some kind of spacer bracket to boost the mount up [with the engine in the way! ] it took several hours just get pass side mount off with engine in the way and took almost 4 hrs to wedge complete motor in there so REALLY dont wanna pull it out n start all over! 2 things i learned about gbody swaps. dont try to drop LM7 motor in there w/o removing the intake, you will add 2 hrs to the install which is more time than it takes to remove i imagine. 2nd, dont take for granted any motor mount that looks like a recomended one will work. 3rd thing is, either drain the tranny if its coming out and engine oil or put a used or take apart your driveshaft to seal tailshaft up cuz tranny oild gets dumped everywhere. engine oil too leaked a fair bit cuz i puncture the oil filter on way out with stock motor.

I got a 1984 Chevrolet Caprice that I am doing a LS swap on what motor mounts and frame mounts do I need I bought the car without them and I don't know what I need that's going to work with the same adapter plates that u have your help is greatly appreciated

Could I use those for a is swap in my 03 dodge Dakota

What about the mounts for 1981 CABALLERO 3.8 V6? Will these work? I have them.

Should you use any threadlock on the bolts?

Man I’m clueless on my genV swap this helps a lot but would like to know torque specs on the bolts being the aluminum block kinda scary not knowing lol

Instead of grinding the mount.. could you just space it out with a couple of washers...?

Yeah ls motors make lots of power but takes classic out of it should go with a 454 or 383 stroker

Hey man I wonder would this be all I need to mount a 6.0 lq9 into my 1965 impala

Another great BLG video! Thanks Bro, is there a video about LS swap DBW pedal conversion?

did you have to cut the trans tunnel? I have a 77 and it's not fitting at all

I have a 1974c20 crew cab big block what are the right ones

Would these will work with any small block chevy?

Cool vid...man 😎 👍

Omg I’m over here about to boost like 700hp , I better pull them thangs off ! Lol

Thks

Those mounts look great to me and if you install them right i cant see how they could break. And I'd like to see you go live brother. You should look at getting a belt sander with like 60 grit my dads gonna make one ill send pics once its done on BLG Facebook

Hi I have a 85 chevy caprice with the 305 sbc engine I'm swapping with a 5.3 ls engine out of a suburban can I use the same engine mounts in your video

I have a 1992 with a v6 would I have to install v8 motor mounts if I’m doing an ls swap

I have some motor mounts similar to yours off a 67 C10 would those plates work for me as well?

Which frame mounts did you use

Buy a diff. Grinding wheel ! Joe.

Just FYI those aluminum plates are only rated for 400hp max. Even the mfg’s state that on their products. They are weaker than the steel versions. That said I stayed aluminum because I’m only going cam which caps around 350hp... If you go turbo or nitrous you have to upgrade to steel or risk those plates giving out

I ran into a little issue with the 1" set pack plates, on the driver side I was able to slide the bolt through the clam shell in to the perch with no problem, however on the passenger side the clap shell will not line up with the perch, it's like half inch off, not sure if the clam shell is the problem or what. But I'm trying to figure it out.

I should have made you some of those and sent you them lol

Are you building these ls engine or they used from another car?

Make sure you use your wife's toothbrush when you're cleaning your block!