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So I guess even the factory 195 or 197 thermostat is still open the whole time because the Silverados all run right at 210. At least that’s what is on the gauge in the middle. It stays closed until it gets 197 ish and then pretty much stays open. I’ve never seen the gauge move from 210 once it gets there.
Good morning. I'm still a novice to LS Swapping. Engine won't start. I had my wife crank over the car while I tested the spark plugs and the injectors for voltage. All tested good. I have a 6.0L L96 Gen IV (Vortec) and a new ECM configured by a master Tuner friend to a 2009 Corvette ECM with VATS, flex fuel and VVT settings removed. I have this ECM setup because I"m using a Tremec T56 Magnum Six Speed. The engine started easily on half a crank about a month ago when I fired it up. Recently a Friend helped me with Dakota Digital Cruise control wiring, and now the engine won't start. I think I understand what you said about the 12 Volt ignition wiring test is verified with power to coils and injector when cranking. Now I'm at a loss. Thanks for all the information you share. Any thoughts/ideas where to look next?? Regards Matt Politzer.
Hello, could you run this fan off the OEM connectors and using OEM temperature sensor? I dont want to run lower temp thermostat, as I live in a cold region Thanks for the video!!
The new clamps didn’t leak. It was leaking in the area that we DIDNT use the better clamps. This was explained multiple times throughout the video. Of course that was remedied years ago by spending $40 on the better clamps about 4 days after making these videos. 😉
Great video. I have an 89 Formula- just got a 4.8 so if I order the f body mount I won’t have to drill out extra hole for the mount? Can you point me in the right direction for the gas pedal - sensor and set up for the drive by wire thx
So screw the 160 and put a 195 back in so I don’t ever see 230 again? 😂 good video 82 z28 Camaro 355 stock 305 radiator and everything keeps heat soaking on a little bit longer trips now that it’s summer time lol thanks
If your running highway speed for a long time, down just shut the engine off with a turbo. The hot turbo will cook that oil at the turbo. Let if run before you shut it off.
Im glad you got this on video, we used to have neighbors in my neighborhood doing burnouts with their cars on the 4th. Sadly, they all moved away or passed on. Happy 4th
Are you having any issues with the fans? I have Flexalite Fans on my setup and can't run A/C or my truck starts to overheat...just seeing cause i don't want the fans to give me any issues if i replace mine
I don't have the Alloyworks stuff yet, just getting reviews and advice before buying one. Thought about a Cold-Case radiator, but they are alittle pricey
I keep getting a battery saver active warning and service battery changing system… I changed the battery alternator and a couple fuses do you have a idea of what it might be
Thanks for the tip , I'm in Australia and have a local made GM Holden with the 6 litre and found that the GM heat shields and after market heat socks especially are rubbish so after listening to you I ordered a set of Taylor leads from USA they arrived today and I duly fitted them and was pleased with the fitment and they solved my misfire problems also cost with freight to my door was same as wires from local suppliers but quality was my main concern anyway. I would endorse everything you have said so thanks again for the tip!
Im having two issues with my ls swap in my 87 montecarlo .... Issue 1 is in order to start the car & keep it running I have to hold my foot on the pedal for up to 10 seconds then release it ... 2nd issue is when i tap the brakes on any gear the car cuts straight off... what could be the cause?
Issue 1 sounds like a tuning issue or possible wiring/sensor issue. Issue 2 sounds like someone tapped into the wrong side of the brake switch when they were installing the engine harness. Taking issue 2 into consideration makes me think issue 1 may be caused by improper wiring as well.
Hi! I really appreciate you doing this video in a simple and detailed way. ALLOYWORKS some include a second relay and have a connector coming from both relays to connect directly to tepee dual fans. I’m still working on putting the dual fans and radiator in my 1973 Mustang.
I'm having a problem with my L's that worked previously with a carb EFI. I switched to a modern manifold and aces EFI. I can get everything to turn on but no crank in the start position. I can get the starter to with the screwdriver method. Also when I just the starter relay I made nothing happens. Please I need help. It's been week's
Your problem is in the starting circuit and has nothing to do with the efi install unless someone didn’t know what they were doing and cut your ignition wire. The starting circuit generally doesn’t need to be touched to do an engine swap or efi install. I’d check your ignition switch and your ignition switch to starter solenoid wire. If you aren’t getting power there then check the wiring to the ignition switch.
@@BadLuckGarage so I bought a probe and checked the starter. I have power 12 plus volts to starter power. I have no power on s terminal when trying to start. I changed my starter and still have no crank. Haven't checked s terminal yet (need 2nd person). What terminal do I check for power on the ignition switch? Also when I turn the key to start I loose power in my Dakota gauges and other things. Not sure if that means anything. Thanks for the reply
will the 4L80 Flexplate bolt behind a Gen 4 5.3 liter?, i have a th400 and a stall converter but im not sure if the gen 4 LS(5.3) Flexplate will work with my th400, sorry for being specific.
If you truly hooked them up the way I did, then you most likely have a faulty temp switch that staying grounded out. That is the only thing that would cause your issue if the engine isn’t over 165 degrees already.
While I kept and rebuilt the 305 in my '88 IROC (5spd, t-tops), I did add inner and outer subframe connectors and the UMI torque arm. All add to an at least perceived/subjective improvement in drivability.
So are you saying if you have the aluminum proportioning valve it'll work if you put a disc rear end in just got to put a sticker spring in and do you got to reset the electric Shuffle valve put a new motor in my car last fall and it's still sitting in my garage cuz I'm getting no brakes if you can help me thank you great video
Very informative video saved me from so much loss of time and money. Quick question my coolant temp sensor that is being used to ground the relays out can I splice into those two wires and add my green coolant temp gauge reading wire?
