I really like your approach cos you are answering the questions we all have but the 'experts' are missing. One observation though was that it was very hard for me to compare the examples as you basically cut a pic in half with the left side using one shade and the right using an alternate shade. For me you need to show the left (or right side) for both shades - that way we we comparing the same parts of the pic. But still great explanations :)
I hear you, for sure. I made the decision to do it this way to keep the video from being too long, but definitely realized afterwards that for some of them that I should have shown both full screen back to back instead (or as well). Thanks for the feedback.
This was my exact complaint with the test. It was pretty much impossible to compare because the left and right sides had completely different colored objects.
I just saw the video and although I appreciate you doing it, I didn't come to any conclusion because you showed different sides of the image with different light and tones. You should have shown the entire photo on the left and on the right with the different cards! Would you do another vídeo, plz? TIA
A bit of searching on the web will reveal Nikon and Canon use laboratory setups to calibrate their cameras and don’t use 18 % grey. I don’t know what they use for white balance, in the laboratory but suggest it is reflected in their Auto White Balance settings. I shoot RAW and might occasionally tweak the white balance slider. I’m am Engineer, not an artist. Since my cataract surgery, any tweaking I did from 2010 would be suspect, by which I mean wrong to bizarrely wrong! Sorry to complicate the discussion. My suggestion is to shoot RAW, adjust as you see fit and maybe change it in a year or two, or after you have cataract surgery and can once again see bright, clean whites. I can assure you, those whites will be pleasurable in the extreme. Sorry if this offends experts who don’t own laboratory equipment but do own opinions. Well, honestly, maybe not so much… .
It is Sam Holland! Yes, not brother of Tom Holland. Hahahaha! He shares common sense which are not common. Common sense that people with exorbitant gears but zero photography/videography and light understanding.
thanks! i've been wanting to know if distance was important. it makes sense to snap a photo with the grey card in the area you're trying to properly color correct.
Thanks, good way to illustrate something I've been trying to explain to another tog. Would have been great if you had included a quick demo of using the 18% to center histogram.
Yes, probably a good idea, there's always something else to add it seems...sometimes you don't even realize, sometimes it takes a viewer over a year later to think of it. Thanks for watching! 👍
3:56 Regular white paper is free. I don't see the difference with "free" and "not free". So... I'll go with the free version. Thanks a lot, great video. One little thing: it's hard to see the difference in the pictures. It would be easier if there was continuous horizontal colour on both side. THUMBS UP... of course!
Yeah, I agree on the horizontal colour situation, would have been better for sure...but, as far as the white paper thing, it's more of a "structure thing" I'd say. Yes, white paper is also white, but it will not keep its structural integrity over multiple uses. Like, as soon as you put it in your camera bag/etc it will crumple, rip etc, it will also blow in the wind and get destroyed by water as well. So, yeah, not really a colour issue, but rather a not getting destroyed and convenience of use thing of time...
There is a difference in color, regular white paper is produced in a way to reflect more blue light to make it look whiter/brighter to our human brain. Hence if you're doing color critical work an actual white/grey-card is needed. It can be good enough for casual use, and definitely is better than not doing WB at all, however it's not a free equivalent.
Great video! Loved all the test you've done. I'm late since this video is 3 years ago? I hope you still see this comment. I'm just wondering if my initial photo is blurred, will it be okay? I have those small white cards and a tele lens so I can't get the white card to cover most of the screen without getting out of focus
Hey man I didn't like my g85 auto white balance and I have small card like 3 different shade white grey, black, I think white card is best for custom white balance but this cards r very small, so what's ur opinion I m on right path or not🔥🔥
Well, custom white balance on a G85 (I have one as well) is a little bit easier to set than on a Canon camera, but I have never had much success at setting the white balance using those little cards. If you make the custom WB box small enough, they are probably fine. Also, the G85 shifts a little in the green direction most times...so I tend to need to fix that in post anyway.
@@ThisGuy I have so many questions regarding g85 plz can u ans them, like how to create Bokeh by the way I m using 12-60mm lens and background from me to is little 4 to 5 feet and I try to record in 1080p 25 fps at double Sutter speed and iso is kind 320 and I recording in widest frame possible at 12mm🔥🔥
Shouldn't there be more of a difference between covering the camera and holding it in the lights you are using? If my lights are set to 3200k and I cover the entire view with the white card and it's now out of the 3200k lights area, wouldn't the camera miscalibrate?
Btw, something that might be interesting to of be to snap a photo after using the custom white balance and then read the actually number value the camera picks when you bring the raw file into Lightroom (so in essence, snap two photos. One for the white balance and one to read in Lightroom or something).
@@ThisGuy I've also found, and this is kinda off topic, that any lights you have that have a color cast (cheap LEDs) get corrected when you use the custom color balance on your camera. Could help you in a future video, but I thoticed the color balance wasn't 3200k when. I set the lights there, etc. It was like 100-200 off. When I used 3200k or 5600k there was a magenta tint to my lights.
Sir your's video is very helpful, plz tell me which white balance tool is best between WhiBal G7 or Andoer12" or Expodisc i am very confused between them.
sorry. i missed this. To be honest, the best one is going to be the one that is most portable/functional (without being too small). I like folding ones that fit in any bag easily.
I COULD TELL THE FIRST PICTURE WAS A WHTE CARD ON THE LEFT BECAUSE THERE WAS LIGHT SHINING IN THE PICTURE AND GREY CARDS ALWAYS HAVE WEIRD COLORS BECAUSE THEY HAVE GREEN AND PURPLE TINT IN THEM TO MAKE THE GREY COLOR. THE OTHER PICTURES WERE TAKEN IN A DIMLY LIT ROOM SO THERE WAS NO NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCE BECAUSE THERES NO LIGHT SHINING IN THE PICTURE. THE SCENE IS ALL GREY.
What are you even saying? Dim light or bright light, white balance is still impacted (as it's the temperature of the light, not the brightness). This was just a straight up test to see what the results would be, chill.
If you watched my other videos, I explain that I'm basically never looking for "accurate" but rather for consistency. My experiments show that both work fine to get a good looking image, plus I grade almost everything after anyways, plus people's monitors are often calibrated different, so even if "accurate" how many other people would even know? I don't work for any company where colour accuracy of their logo/brand is required either.
@@ThisGuy A troll. 'It' meant, why you are "bothered" making video about white balance and the comparison between the types of "cards" when you colour grade and not into color accuracy. A troll is never about learning and education anyway. (They are selective, of course! Only their kind of education and learning are legitimate and true. Others' are illegitimate.) One of those trolls which has titles in the English language, but content is in another language. Exactly like the majority of "tech" videos have titles and descriptions in the English language but people in those videos speak in either Tamil or Hindi. Yes, I am trolling the troller. LMAO! Sometimes the bully needs to be bullied, it needs to eat its own medicine in order to feel its own bitterness.
I thought my eyes were playing trick on me. I read THAT word repeatedly and it is - FOTGA 12" & Neewer KAREN! I do not know whether somebody replied to this or not - Gray is "American". Grey is 'British' spelling. (See? I even know that they use different inverted commas/quotation marks! Do not ask me why or how I know! ) Anyway, yes, like those Audiophoolz. It is about the best gears and standards. They believe that the best gears make the best and accurate sounds. Like those "cinematography" Karens, you MUST shoot in 24 fps, shutter speed MUST be double the number of fps (more or less is a mortal sin), MUST be orange and teal, MUST blur background, etc. With these standards, many award-winning old films are then fcuking bad. Charlie Chaplin is horrid, unnatural and incorrect fps, black and white damages eyesight. The Matrix sucks, people are sick, inaccurate skin tone, destructive to children's mind, creativity is bane. Barry Lyndon is a horror, candle scene is bad lighting, blurry on all the wrong places, confuses people to oblivion. Oh, not forgetting Karens which can shoot sloppily and flippantly simply because they shoot in RAW and the fact that they have the most advanced one-click artificial intelligent plug-in or software to magically solve all their mistakes, dislikes, or dissatisfactions in their lousy images.
