Use a grey card for correct exposure 

I think you're right. Good catch! :-)

That's a really good tip. I've done this with my old AE-1 and it works a treat!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks Mark. Glad you found it useful.

Thanks!

You're welcome!

You're welcome. :-)

The way you are doing it is a really good way to do it also. Specially if it's a really contrasty scene. For challenging situations such as a speaker in a dark environment I would also use spot metering and for a more evenly lit scene I would use the grey card method. I'm glad you found the video interesting. Let me know how you go in your tests. Dan

Very good point.

You are spot on. Grey card works on an average so any time you have something that is white it is is going to struggle with it. (Same with snow and sandy beaches). And to be honest, you will struggle to get a use a grey card in a wedding scenario.

@@DanCanteroI’m new to photography and it’s a hobby. I bought grey card and it came with white and black. Does either work better for white dress or snow? Just wondering when to you grey vs white vs black? I appreciate any guidance and experience you can share.

Hi Roger, yes the guide is about 70% complete. It's taken a little longer than expected due to an unforeseen overseas trip but I'm back on it and due to complete it soon. Dan

We’ve all been there! 😀

Hey Edward! Glad you found it useful. You need to change it any time the light changes because as the light changes the temperature will be different. You don't need to do it when you change angles. You should also change it if you move to a different location because sometimes, you will get reflected colors from things like concrete floors, grass, etc. Hope that helps.

You have to place it in the same light that your subject is being illuminated by. So if your subject is in the shade or in the sun. Although for landscape photography I would bracket my exposure to ensure I can recover any shadows or highlights. Hope that helps. :-)

Hi Abel, it is totally up to you. My preference is to set the ISO manually to the lowest setting appropriate to the scene. I do this to force the camera to give me the cleanest image possible. If I'm shooting a run and gun type of event like a wedding, I would set it to automatic. Hope that makes sense.

That's an excellent question. This video talk more about the exposure of the shot so perhaps I'll make a video to show how this works but in the meantime, let me try to see if I can explain the answer. But the way, there are multiple answers to this question but let's try to keep it simple. First question. The white balance simply helps you set the color temperature of your photos. Your camera will have various different pre-set types such as Flash, Tungsten, etc. The thing is that not all of those settings will perfectly match every scenario. So the camera gives you a blank one (called custom white balance) that you can use a grey card to create. Once you create your custom white balance it will remain the same until you create a new custom white balance. The idea is that when the light changes, you create a new custom white balance to update it. The custom white balance will never update on its own, only YOU can update it. Second question. Yes. If you are shooting RAW (and I'm assuming that you are) you can simply include your grey card at the beginning of every lighting scenario. This will let you correct the white balance later on when you are doing your edit. The most important thing here is to remember to actually do this. I know that personally, I get caught up with the composition of the shot, posing my model, etc. and sometime I forget to do this. This is by far the easiest way to do this. I hope this makes sense. If not please let me know. The idea is to help people so if it's not clear please reach out and let me know either here or any of the socials (links below). These types of questions are great because they all contribute to the making of new videos. I hope this helped. Dan. :-)

Fair enough. :-)

Will do. Thanks for the feedback.