In this episode of Sartorial Talks, Hugo discusses bespoke shoemakers, clarifies what being a bespoke shoemaker entails, and gives his opinion on who are the best in the craft.
A wealthy man once told me something I'll never forget. He said always save your money except when you buy a mattress and shoes because if you're not on one you're in the other.
I’m a working class Irish man that will never afford a pair of modified last or totally bespoke shoes or boots but I actually knew the difference between the two,but more importantly the fact that I cannot afford them does not stop me appreciating there quality and beauty.This is a man that certainly knows his stuff. Very enjoyable and interesting talk. 👍🏻I watched a programme about the fellowship you spoke of in France only it was carpenters I watched as they traveled around the country learning from the best and stayed in a communal house, a brilliant idea that all countries should look at adopting.
Probably yet another reason that here in the USA, we have lost talented carpenters, shoemakers, or many artisans. We are not patient enough or humble enough to learn anything. Just a generalization, but so much is done out of the idea to do it quickly to make the best profit.
Paul Brady saving some money over a year and getting a pair of artisan best spoke shoes is an experience is not a pair of shoes that will get worn out and you ll bin them away, the more you wear them the better they become the leather gets a character a unique patina! You have to treat yourself with a best spoke shoes and is a piece of art !Go in Romania as he is advising at the end it's far cheaper than in the uk
Indeed. In a sea of people who just regurgitate the same blog articles over and over, it's refreshing to see someone that actually knows what they're talking about.
Proper bespoke shoemaking is something I have never experienced personally but I can certainly admire and respect the extreme skill and artisan nature of such a thing and like anything that man does well or should I say exeedingly well it deserves full recognition and respect for the craft .
I've only recently discovered your videos and I am so glad that I have. Aside from being incredibly informative and well-produced segments, I find you as a narrator to be just about perfection really. The extent of your understanding seems equally and so genuinely matched by a passion for every aspect of satorial subject that you address. And always you communicate for the benefit of the viewer, even when you are specifying your own personal views. This is a combination of attributes that any dedicated student of any subject matter always pines for but rarely finds in thier educators. In my humble opinion, you'd rank amongst the best of teachers around, and certainly of the top-tier for fashion and design. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to seeing more wonderful content from you in the future.
Thank you ever so much for taking your time to pass on your knowledge on craftsmanship and the history of your subject matter. I've been searching for someone like you for ages now, who doesn't just try to sell and advertise to their audience, but actually cares about their passion. Thank you.
I just stumbled on this man and I am an instant fan of his. I always said, "It is better to have style, that to be in style," and Hugo, I think would agree.
Hearing him talk about the way apprenticeship is done in France absolutely fascinated me. If I were a young single man, I'd do everything I could to enter that type of program for learning this kind of craftsmanship!
Hugo, you are incomparable in your articulation of beauty and craft. Contextualizing this great craft is so hard to wrap your head around but this does a great job of putting a real narrative frame around it.
You are most welcome. The cultural history you are tied into with your family is fascinating. The French organization/ brotherhood of shoe makers sounds like a religious order! Such devotion to craft and principal is really a remarkable value especially in today's world (as your whole platform reflects this I am sure I am saying nothing new). But thank you it's great to get insight into the nuances of these craftsman and the varied artisans who are shaping things.
Dear Justin, The Compagnon du Devoir guild is indeed an incredible organization (and a thing France should be proud of). Its aim is to protect and promote to the young generation manual work of the highest level in different areas : shoemakers, but also stone masons, masons, cabinet makers, embroiderers, cuisine chefs, carpenters, plumbers, winemakers and more than 60 different artisanal disciplines. It's a fascinating organization and one to promote in today's world. Yours, Hugo
@@hugojacomet428 My friend from far world,am here in Africa(Tanzania),I truly appreciate your detailed talk on bespoke..Congratulation....I have a suggestions via email:chrissjane11@gmail.com
With each video I watch I feel as though I am being personally, attentively and passionately mentored toward humble elegance. Whether Monsieur Hugo or Madame Sonya, the degree of love for the craft of the sartorial burns bright and warm through the medium they employ. Thank you so much for providing such a wealth of knowledge and wisdom.
Hugo, you’re a scholar and a gentleman. I’ve binge-watched your channel’s content over the past month or so, and I’ve come to really appreciate your love of the craft. You exude genuineness, grace, and humility, and you do it all while wearing suits and shoes that I could never afford. If there’s any quality in someone I detest, it’s pretentiousness, and you’re not pretentious in the slightest; you’re enthusiastic and eager to share your passion with strangers. And speaking of passion, I think it was really brave of you to share your love of Christ here on RU-vid. We’re treated like pariahs now, and all while the west is failing and falling in every measurable way, but people like you remind me of the qualities in it that still make it the best place to live on earth. With respect from a simple, poor American. Best wishes, -Justin
I have to say that your knowladge on the matter is just out of this world. I want to thank you for talking the time to educate me on the matter, i thought i knew alot and i realize Im still in kinder garden. I know you dont do this for fame what you do its truly himbling, greetings from mexico.
Thank you so much for your kind words. We would love to visit Mexico with Sonya and maybe organize there a lecture or a book signing session. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo Jacomet if you ever wish to come down here id be happy to give you proper hospitality, show you around México city and be happy to Open my home to you . You have a place you can call home if you ever wish to ,Here is my email foicortiz@gmail.com
So proud, happy and excited someone from Mexico City, Mexico; takes interest on this artful handcraftsmanship with a specialty on bespoke shoes, finding this to be a rejoice more than a duty; We both share these two similarities. With all due respect, Mr. Hugo Jacomet you possess the competence, the ability to do something successfully or efficiently such as in this brief but entirely cohesive, educational, accurate, pleasant segment on this visual presentation to illustrate us with an introspect, so coherent, congruent, affluent, enlightened and au courant with the topic, you amazed me! Thank you both.
@@hugojacomet428 it really amazes me that you can do this video and talk about French Bespoke and not mention J.M. Weston... That is mindblowing ! that is impossible, it is insane.
I love the way dots are being connected - It helps in building up ones inventory and not least the history behind it all, is so fascinating. My grandfather was an Old school barber 💈 Besides his shop there was a shoemaker and a tailor. To me all elements in the fascinating world of Sartorial. Thank you for your inspiring words 👌🏻 A big Cheers from Denmark 🇩🇰
Thank you for this series Hugo and Sonya. Such a wealth of not just knowledge, but knowledge from obvious passion and experience. A pleasure to see and learn from. Looking forward to many more.
Another amazing video! I just came across your content about a month ago, and my copies of "Italian Gentleman" and "Parisian Gentleman" are on their way to me right now! So excited to add them to my collection of menswear books!
Thank you Sir for your kind words, for you appreciation and for buying my books! I hope you'll enjoy them. You can also visit our website that your may or may not know : parisiangentleman.co.uk/best-of-pg-en/ where you'll find hundreds of articles on men style. Cheers, Hugo
I love shoes and craftmanship which incorporates talent,skill and when experience and insight/wisdom creates a work of art.Loved this video.Thank you,I have learnt so much.
Completely mesmerized by this video. I can probably never get my hands on a pair, neither do I know if shoes with such artistry are even produced to women, but fascinating craft, indeed.
Hugo, thank you dearly for this presentation. I have known I wanted to be a bespoke shoemaker since the age of six when my mother brought me home a children’s story of a Cordwainer who moved into a town inhabited only by large and incredibly grumpy fluffy monsters. His shoes brought joy to their lives because their feet were now healthy, protected, pain free and of course “stylish”. I had an opportunity to study under a man in León, Mexico, what is your knowledge base and opinion on the shoe/boot making industry in that locale? This man is from a family line of shoemakers who built the entire shoe by hand, with wooden lasts hand carved down to the minutest measurement per client. My hope is to one day have the opportunity to hold up my masterpiece to a master for judgement. I fully believe in the the master/apprentice relationship. Watching this video brought joyous tears to my spirit, thank you for your time and the effort you put into such great attention to the details!
Hugo my friend, once again you have done justice to this topic that is very close to my heart that i even become a bit emotional about it 'shoes, "i always say if you walk a mile in my shoes you'll end up in a shoe store/shoemaker" i can compromise on a shirt, suits because of finances maybe but never on shoes and ties, What a great narrative on shoes, My first love is Corthay and followed by Tye i'm glad you've touched on their craft. Thank you Sir much respect...
Hello, I am a female and came upon this video as I was researching how to polish shoes with Kirby Allison. Oh my goodness, this is an extraordinary video...this is a gorgeous art requiring immense talent in combination. I am awe struck by this field of beauty. Thank you...In Deep Appreciation for your making this available...
I love this channel and the way this man carries himself, very knowledgable and humble, I've worked in the fashion industry for about 5 years in New York and I feel that i have so much to learn from him, it feels great being cultured by Hugo Jacomet
Thank you Hugo, for sharing your knowledge, opinions and deep understanding of the art of shoemaking. One doesn't buy an 'expensive' bespoke shoe just to show off. It is like buying an art, there is a story behind the craftmanship.
Society has no issue with spending on a diamond ring as an expression of love and commitment......Why not hand-made or bespoke shoes as an expression of love and commitment.......Your partner and your shoe maker are for life......."We are what we do regularly, excellence is not an act, its a habit"....Aristotle....
@Gorgon Don not western, just rich. If you have the means and you enjoy the good things in life this details are a must. I'm poor but I try to invest in heirloom quality items (bicycle, tools, razors) and I'm saving to in the future buy 2 pairs of either mtm or fully beespoke balomoral/spat boots.
@Gorgon Don If anything goods like these could slow down the excessive consumerism culture. I don't shave with a cartridge razor I shave with a straight razor, and I have had the same 6 pairs of shoes for the last 12 years and only 2 of them will be getting retired in the next couple of years. The soaps that I buy are very simple in Formula and the same goes for them I have used 12 in the last five years.
Monsieur Jacomet, c'est toujours est un pure plaisir de voir et entendre un vrai gentleman parler avec tant de passion, savoir-faire et savoir-vivre tout en elegance, eloquence, authenticité et grace. Votre serie de videos est devenue comme une therapie au quotidien pour oublier les tracas de la vie, et ne se concentrer que son bon coté. Mille merci pour le partage! The world needs more beautiful things such this series to overcome its ugly times we live in lately.Totally buying all your fantastic books Sir! Cheers from the Rocky Mountains. Peace & Love for all.
Cher ami, merci pour ce message, pour vos encouragements et pour votre gentillesse à notre égard. Ce genre de commentaire est précieux pour Sonya, pour Greg (qui travaille dur pour que nos deux chaines RU-vid existent et se développent en Anglais et en Français), pour toute notre équipe et pour moi-même. Merci et cheers from the Smoky Mountains. Hugo
Mes hommages à votre épouse Sonya. Une belle dame pleine de charme et de grace. Malheureusement , je ne connait pas Greg, mais je lui souhaite bonne continuation. I do, as an enthusiast, old fashion analog photography and videography and I know how much work it takes to make one of these videos and I can tell you, your videos are simply stunning!! Very professional!! The lighting (very important), the audio, the soundtracks, the editing / post production work, simply amazing!! C'est vrai, tout ce qui est simple est beau! Mr Hugo, remember my words, although your channel is young, yet deserves and will have hundreds of thousands of followers if not millions, else, something is definitely wrong with the world.
Cher ami, nous approchons déjà les 10 000 abonnés fidèles en quelques vidéos et nous sommes très reconnaissants d'avoir déjà pu réunir cette communauté très active (beaucoup de commentaires de grande qualité et une progression constante). But I will remember your words of course. Yours, Hugo
Hey Hugo, great respect to your work. I have been following you and had referenced your work heavily whilst i was a student at Cordwainer's College, London. I enjoy how you document menswear with the passion and enthusiasm that could make Beau Brummell blush. Thank You for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Tarun for your kind words. I'm not sure anybody had been able to make Brummell blush (let alone the King), but I take the compliment, Cheers, Hugo
Thank You so much for sharing it is greatly appreciated , I recall visiting a shoe store in Venicia and as an American Tourist I could definitely see there was something unique about them.
Nikes are molded rubber, cheap leather, and glue. Sewn together by underpaid, sometimes underage employees. Don't get me wrong, I love them. They're good for what they are and what they're for but none of them are worth over $200. And I say $200 just out of respect for the economically disadvantaged people that have to put them together in horrible conditions.
@@thomaschristopherwhite9043 the slaves that make the nikes deserve $200.00 the Nikes are worth $20.00. there is nothing to love about nikes except the approval from a dumbed down peer group, whom need to be avoided. Perhaps making bespoke athletic shoes and wear could be a new industry.
So true,being from a Township (South Africa).I watched my Father always dress in best bespoke shoes growing up.Looking classy and neat.But today you see a man get killed over a pair of Nike which have been duplicated.
Oh my god this guy is amazing, thankyou so much for the education. I couldn't afford a pair myself, but for a moment, i was so delighted to see and hear about such beautiful shoes and there origins thanks again. Maybe in my next life..
I thoroughly enjoy your videos! This is a subject I really love, even though I’m far away from being able to afford bespoke shoes. I follow countless artists on instagram and I’m permanently amazed by what works of art they are able to create. In an utopic version of my world, I would travel to all those countries, meeting the artisans and commissioning shoes on a monthly basis perhaps 😀
Dear Vali, this is pretty much what we do with Sonya (visiting shoemakers and tailors around the world), except we don't commission shoes every month ! Thank you for your appreciation Vali. Cheers, Hugo
Could this man be any more eloquent and charming......authentic masculine elegance rarely seen, if ever. What a joy to listen and learn this fabulous "terroir" of the bespoke shoe. The images and names cast a spell of their own. Raconteur extraordinaire!
These shoes are so flawlessly beautiful..I would not dare wear and break them in..( affording them is another issue hehe) Hugo is such a stylish, gentleman of substance...thanks for sharing this
Really amazing... Since few months I am interested in shoe making I want to be a shoe maker that's why I am watching lots of videos that how to start and where to start and trying to get knowledge about shoe making but really your video explained to me this work is amazing.
my god... this is one of the best youtube videos ive seen... its a clear and simple mini-guide for a product, in this case.. beskoken shoemakers... and even if its a mini giude, its feels so complete and very understandable, good job
A fantastic and educational video! I am so glad I found your videos and I use your videos to educate myself in how to seek out new clothing qualities. I am a Pastor and I am now reinventing my wardrobe. You, my dear brother are a tremendous blessing to me because your a man that seeks what is the best in elegance. I would like to know, if you know of good Bespoke tailors of mens suits in Russia? Maybe St. Petersburg? May the good Lord bless you!
Thank you so much for your kind comments. In Russia you should check the work of my friends at Zennoni (they are in Moscow). Here : www.zenonni.com Blessings, Hugo
I wouldn't normally watch something like this, but this guy actually made it interesting, like the user comments about Nike, but Nike doesn't make shoes, they make footwear.
ABSOLUTELY BLOWN AWAY. This guy knows his shit and isn't the least smug or arrogant about it. Bless you. You have truly open my eyes. Forgot berluti, forget edward green. I amma gonna get me some shoes in Tokyo!
I never thought of this, I am shoe person, brouge is my favourite, I would spend whatever it cost for a shoe, but now I can't . €500 would be all I can afford, however ,a great video , I will get a pair of brouges ,100% leather and of all the fast money I've had I regret not purchasing a pair. Very educational vid, thank you Sir.
10:15 These are not shoes. They are master pieces! The beauty of these divine creations makes me sooo emotional. I cry. I would like to hold it in hand, see it in different lighting, smell it, savor every single detail (visible and not). My grandmother said that my grand grandfather was an award winning Polish shoemaker who spent a lot of time in France. I often end up in worn out shoes because one of the most difficult things to do in life is to settle for mediocre, less than... divine. This video is so aesthetically pleasing that i had to remind myself to breath. Hugo, thank you for sharing your passion and expertise.
I learn so much from this man - I consider myself very lucky for such deep speacilist knowledge, as UK working class stock in my 60's I could have never known such insights!
I would love to be able to afford a few true bespoke shoes! Man that sounds so cool and I would love to simultaneously support such craftsmanship. So far, I have only been able to afford Loake, but they make very nice shoes too!
Incredible video. I have a video request. Will you please make a video about why men should dress their best? You know, fine shoes, suits, ties, hats, watches etc. our culture in America is so depressing with everyone commonly wearing trashy clothes with zero effort to look nice at all. I’d like to start a channel to work on getting American men to learn to start dressing to the 9s frequently. It is so much fun :)
Thanks for you contribution and your suggestion. We will tackle this subject for sure. But may I suggest you read this on our website : parisiangentleman.co.uk/2013/08/13/a-good-sartorial-education-can-chang/ and browse also our Academy section. On PG you'll find hundreds of articles that may interest you. Best, Hugo
Thanks for your kind words, but I'm certainly not an idol. I just hope I provide my readers/followers with some valuable inspiration and information. Cheers, Hugo
@Picking Profits We are more logical here in the States. We prefer comfort and affordability rather than paying $6000 for a pair of shoes that are going to get all scratched first time you wear them.
Dear Hugo, thank you for your great explanation. Can you give maybe a little more explanation on the price difference of Italian (2k-4k) vs French or English (5k-7k) bespoke shoe making? Would you be able to see it apart from the difference cut? Thank you in advance!
👍Absolutely terrific info and video!!! It baffles my mind as to why this channel doesn’t have at least a million subscribers (well okay I understand everyone isn’t concerned with exquisite pristine style, elegance or class...so than narrows the gap a bit, but there should be at least a few hundred thousand subscribers). The high quality here is deserving and worthy of so many more subscribers and attention. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. 💞
Fantastic video. Thank you. I am a lover of good shoes, even though 6000E is sadly, just a little over my budget! A quick aside. St Crispin - the patron saint of shoemakers @14:50 - is celebrated on 25 October in UK, just a few days ago, and is probably better known to Brits from Shakespeare's "Henry V" account of the battle of Agincourt. "This day is call'd the feast of Crispian. He that outlives this day, and comes safe home, Will stand a tip-toe when this day is nam'd" My mate is a retired traditional London cobbler - and when he spoke to me of St Crispin and shoemakers, we found that a quick Google revealed that "St Crispin" was(were) in fact shoemakers Crispin and Crispinian (Romans) who were executed for preaching their faith, Christianity, either in France or Kent, England. Like many legends, no one is quite sure!
If only the wealthy had taste - imagine the aesthetic wonder everybody would see daily. Not just sartorially, also in music, architecture, sculptural, etc...
That was the way the old European aristocracy was. They were patrons of the arts and architecture and knew the meaning of noblesse oblige. The modern wealthy may have lots of money, but they aren't aristocrats in any sense of the word.
Very informative video, educational. In that Hugo did not include materials in his discussion but focused on technical and design talent, are we to assume that all the best shoemakers that he referenced use leathers, etc. of the same quality?
That's a good question! Normally, at this level of craftsmanship (and price) you should be assured to have the very best leathers from the best tanneries. But with Hermès and LVMH buying almost all the leather in the world (creating an artificial shortage of quality leather), it's becoming a real issue for many small ateliers. But that's another subject by itself. Cheers, Hugo
The two most important nonhuman possessions in life are, my bed and shoes. Good quality sleep carries me through the day. Shoes... I should not think about them at all during the day. Comfort should be the primary concern and style is a very close second. I do love a good pair of Oxfords.
I have always loved watching shoe making videos and I thank you for posting this one here now I know and understand better about the things that take place behind making shoes. :-) thank you thank you thank you so much I'm going to go check out all of your videos and Learn and Grow. :-)
Good afternoon. It's a white shirt by shirt maker extraordinaire MAROL from Bologna, with a poplin fabric from Alumo (supraluxe bunch). You can write to marco@marol.it and ask if the Parisian Gentleman Go-To White shirt is still available to order. Cheers, Hugo
Wow, what an inspirational video, it’s good to know that quality still exists and you sir are an excellent representative of that quality. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Be well.
