Why a “McHitch” and install / Review 

But the self guiding and locking is the winner for me, the clunking is only there when connecting which is what you need to hear.

I know a few people that changed to DO35 and all of them wish they did it earlier.

@@Dorko85 100% agree, the DC35 is a great hitch, still tossing up which one to go for, but for me the McHitch is slightly in front. It would be nice if I could test both before I brought.

@@Renegade040 if you are in Perth more than happy to show you ours. We added it to my army trailer as well!

@@Dorko85 do you know why they changed from a McHitch, are there any issues. I live in Exmouth and not planning going to Perth any time soon, thanks for the offer

But the "Hitch Ezy" is around $1000+ compared to $400 for 3.5tonne units...... I still like the idea of being involved in the actual "locking" of the mechanism as a part of the "failsafe" process rather than just dropping the unit down onto the "pillar" I have watched a ton of videos on bot the units and the McHitch really does look the simplest of either to hitch up......

@@ozmid40scouple yeah, they weren't quite that expensive when I bought mine. In any case, it's another example of "you get what you pay for"...

ian pilbeam Exactly right there. Ian. This is misleading. Simple mechanics. Ball weight will be reduced with the 100 mm increase in moment arm.

Should have gone the DO35 from Cruisemaster. So much better than anything else on the market

@@meanderingmarnochs why?

@@Devourer221 seen the McHitch fail on several occasions including once when I was towing my brother's camper trailer which damaged my vehicle.

@@meanderingmarnochs and how did the hitch damage your vehicle? I'm comparing the two currently and a lot of the complaints so far seem to surround maintenance

the newer model,the yellow arm is on a spring loaded hinge... also prevents it from bending if your not lined up properly and hit the arn with the hitch

I never thought of it that way. But I guess you are spot on. By this logic, the D035 would have the same issues. Therefore no hitch will prevent the car from rolling if the caravan goes? Is that correct Ryan?

@@drquentinfree4406 all hitches will lift the car at the rear. Especially dual axle setups. Id hazard a guess at a hypothetical test with a hitch that allowed zero longitudinal rotation between vehicle and trailer would nett a reduced chance of rolling as the trailer would not be able to loft the rear of the car. Sure you'd have the high cog trailer COG trailer trying to roll and twisting at the car, but it's trying to twist the car at such a low point that the car will be resisting the roll, keeping the trailer level and never allowing the trailer to roll independently resulting the rear of the car being lifted. Of coarse there could be other issues that present themselves like the trailer skipping and bouncing rather than sliding.

Seems pretty good actually. Better than before

Haven’t needed to

I’ve moved to a DO35 now

To be honest, o got a bit sick of the McHitch and have since changed to a DO35. For my situation and I’m my opinion this works better for me

Hey David, I have watched mates have divorces trying to line up that little pin on the D035. What is it you prefer with the D035 over the McHitch?

I have a nissan too that does this same roll. It does it with the park brake on too. It truly is bloody annoying.

@@mattluscombe2866 yep, Jeep too. Although there is a better method than above. 1) back up 2) stop with foot brake 3) select NEUTRAL 4) set parking brake 5) select PARK 6) take foot off brake. The key is to put it in N before applying the park brake, then put it in P. This still doesn't solve every roll situation but it definitely cuts down on the rolling.

I think it’s called a “zoom” transition. I’ll have to check. I just hit the little icon without thinking now

@@DASHOffRoad Cheers, which editing program?

I Movie

@@DASHOffRoad Right, that's why I couldn't find it! lol Prem Pro user...

Mines a Kaymar.... for now. Steve Allan’s Mechanical does more work on 62’s than anyone else in SA. I’d go there

Good advice 👍

No, Dave has got it right. The download of the towball doesn't change...but the further back the pivot is from the vehicle's rear axle, the more weight that is exerted on that axle.

@@billroach2393 That's only true if the pivot point moves back but the load stays static. In this case though the load is moving back as well. If you don't believe me and assuming you own a caravan, try jacking up the van from the towball, then move back a bit and try again. The further you go back down the chassis the harder it will be to jack up because the load is increasing.

@@trimat2016 your first sentence says it all... Quote: "That's only true if the pivot point moves back but the load stays static" Unquote. That is EXACTLY what the McHitch Auto does. It moves the pivot point back by about 100mm. The pivot point is the universal joint...not the anchor point of the large 7/8" bolt that secures the receiver to the car's tongue.

@@billroach2393 The Mchitch has moved the load back 100mm.

@@billroach2393 Bill, the UJ is irrelevant for the purposes of calculating ball download, it could be solid and it would make no difference. Think of the van a bit like a wheelbarrow. The longer the arms are the less weight you have to lift.

No sorry

They just use the chains 😒

Any particular reason why?

@@NasTimeAdventures Broke on first tow. Called about warranty and the customer service is a joke.

@@PissTakeProduction I was tossing up between the two. Maybe I stick with the McHitch now. Cheers.

What broke on it?