my 2004 toyota tundra with 215k miles on it lost its power steering and was making moaning noises, lets swap out the pump and open the old one up to see what happened.
Absolutely love your videos. I could sit here and watch you perform autopsy’s all day on broken/failed mechanical items. You do such a great job explaining things and asking the questions I myself am thinkin in my head. So cool Mustie. Always love you’re videos.
Back in the 1970's and early 80's, home mechanics was a nightmare- there were no battery operated impact wrenches, or any other tools available to the home diy'er like there are today-and so I used to get so pissed off at not being able to remove certain screws /nuts/bolts etc because the motor manufacturers made it impossible for us to do our own servicing! Thank goodness we have these tools now, (oh and guys like you to show us how-that's just the best bit- even though now my car is a lease one so even a flat tyre is their problem)
It's funny how watching these videos can change your whole outlook. I'm no mechanic but, before my health deteriorated, I 𝒎𝒊𝒈𝒉𝒕 have tackled the pump replacement. Like many folks though, it would have been a kinda daunting prospect. Watching Mustie change them over, this seemed like a really, really straightforward job. It dawned on me that I watch so many videos of similar work, that I'm used to seeing folks dig far deeper, rather than just changing one component. So often, multiple components have to come out, just to reach the part you're after. In many videos, the whole engine gets pulled, so a p.s. pump seemed so easy by comparison. Funny how getting more familiar with this kind of work can change the way we think, or is it just me?
I've been a "shade tree" mechanic 20+ years... even a few years as running an actual shop and sometimes i still look at jobs and think oh boy here we go, think this looks like a lot or even doubt my ability sometimes still. Especially on a customers or a friends car. Honestly i think it keeps me on my toes lol. Checking my work multiple times. or a seemingly routine job i will check the procedure for that particular vehicle just to make sure. Which has saved many times. I am Always nervous about timing belts on interference engines even though I've probably done over 100 of them. Check marks rotate engine 3 times check marks again. rotate a tiny bit backwards check belt tension. rotate 3 more times check it again Etc lol. I messed up one time and knew it right away. Such a bad feeling to know i just caused over 1000 dollars worth of damage in seconds that could have been avoided. Thanks for reading! If you are still with me I Hope You Are Having A Great Day ! And I Hope You And Your Loved Ones Are Safe, Healthy And Happy!!
@@bentboybbz I worry just as much as you do. I think this is what keeps you from messing up. My colleagues often get overconfient, lazy, aloof, and I think this keeps them from asking questions. Questions like, will it seal, is changing only this part enough, what is the cause, will it work this way? etc. Every car should be treated as the most important thing currently. Changing the timing on my first car, knowing it was a non interference engine, I still turned it over at least 15 times I was so worried. Cheers to you as well!
I just wanna say „thank you“!:) i enjoy watching your videos and you wrenching for so long and I was always entertained and I always learnt something! Thanks to you I recently startet a whole Restauration of my MK3 Ford Escort Cabrio! Your influence has reached into a little German garage! Thanks a lot for that and thanks for not changing in all those years and with all your success! I hope this is going on forever! And I finally raise my beer for the old beater running again💪🏻 see you Sunday!🥳
Some thoughts from a retired transmission builder: That is a 'vane type pump'. The ONLY way that pump can become scored is from a loss of oil for a given length of time. I noticed that one of the lines to the pump has a very tight radius, and this might have created a restriction to flow. Over time, this could starve the pump, and starvation made worse if any fluid has leaked out of the system. There could also be a restriction elsewhere in the system which would create a situation for pump cavitation, which would also cause the pump to fail. Possible that the flexible hose has delaminated inside and is serving to plug off the flow. There should be a pressure relief valve somewhere in that system that regulates the entire system pressure. Otherwise, these vane pumps are known for both high pressure and high volume and are prone to failure if sufficient pressure and fluid volume are NOT present. Look for any inline filters that may well be blocked, because there has been serious fluid contamination with fine solid matter that may serve to destroy your new pump! You don't need/want that - either!
@@chadmckenzie7454 yeah, I bet his screen is near plugged and I don't think he cleaned it. Quick google search would've helped, but maybe he just didn't film it.
ive had a similar experience in my 2007 Tundra 4.7L V8 after doing some hot dogging around in the mud. My question is this, do you think it has caused any damage to the rack & pinion? Also is there a factory filter somewhere in the Power steering system that should be changed after a situation like this?
I remember rebuilding my power steering pump on my old 2002 Toyota I had forgotten about that watching your video sent me down memory lane. I just rebuilt mine as a precaution because I had it apart
I noticed during your latest test that the power steering was working great and no leaks, but there was something leaking out of the multi-black hoses right above it. Your channel is the best. I'm hooked.
Hardening heat treatment so the seal doesn't wear out the shaft i think. I doubt that you can overheat a shaft if you have a softer bushing bracing it around without having it to fail first.
@@michaelovitch friction causes heat no matter the material. Hardened steel as it gets heated goes from a straw color to tannish reddish color, then blue, and then a bluish black. It's annealing the steel, or normalizing it. I learned that making knives and doing my own heat treatment to harden the blade and then you have to temper the steel because it's actually so hard that it becomes very brittle. And tempering at around 400-500 degrees for 1-2 hrs softens it (turns those colors, preferably a dark straw color)enough so it's not brittle but still very hard. Something like that,lol.
@@michaelovitch How you make a shaft. The rough oversize shaft would of been harden (heated above austenitizing temperature and quenched), then tempered (heated to the temperature for the required mechanical properties and air cooled , followed by stress relieve ( normally carried out at 25 below final tempering temperature with a controlled heating and cooling rate) , then final machined and ground. The final product would have no color. The discoloration is from in service use. You would be surprised at how easy a steel shaft turns blue with a soft bearing when there is lubrication failure, I've seen many.
Being a mechanic for 40 years I’ve replaced a bunch of ps pumps but never took one apart. Thanks to you now I don’t have to 🤣🤣thanks for the entertaining videos.
After replacing the pump it’s best to have the front tires off the ground, engine off then turn the wheel lock to lock a few times. Start it up and repeat. Should be quiet 👍🏻
What normally goes bad is the bearing-- and once the bearing goes it causes the seal to get wallered out and leaks (as yours was doing). Also, the tension of the belt now pulls the shaft out of alignment since the bearing is too far out of spec and that causes all the machined surfaces of the pump to impact and chew each other up. It's a pretty cool design in that: all the wear surfaces are replaceable; I can see why the core has value now.. The weak link is the bearing though- and the tension of the belt always pulling sideways on the shaft/ especially at higher RPM's and higher acceleration. lol
As I understand it, there is a fundamental difference between an automatic transmission and a power steering system, which is that the former contains clutches and the latter doesn't. Therefore, automatic transmission fluid can be too slippery, causing the clutches to slip, where power steering fluid is as slippery as possible.
@@alan6832 ATF and power steering fluid definitely are not the same. ATF is pretty benign as a fluid, but power steering fluid will destroy everything. It infiltrates and balloons rubber, eventually causing it to liquefy and fall apart. It also chews up belts and destroys paint. If you got ATF in your power steering system, nothing bad would immediately happen. However, vice versa power steering fluid in an automatic transmission... stick a fork in it, it's done.
@@GGigabiteM Have you guys ever heard of, like, a workshop manual or manufacturer's recommendations? They always tell you what fluid to put where! Toyota's power steering systems tend to specify Dexron ATF, if I'm not terribly mistaken.
@@celeron55 Your entire comment shows you're an armchair mechanic with no wrenching knowledge. I have a truck outside right now where I had to make my own diagrams for almost every system because the factory Mopar diagrams either don't exist, or are completely wrong. And this is a stock unmodified truck. I've also worked on dozens of cars where the same was true. The locations of things weren't marked, or were incorrect. And if you blindly trust them, it would have caused thousands of dollars of damage. And with today's companies becoming increasingly anti-repair, good luck finding diagrams or even parts. Tesla doesn't want you working on your own vehicle, will not sell you parts, and will blacklist your car's VIN if they detect unauthorized parts attached to your car if you tried to replace something to repair it yourself.
love these short maintenance videos, learning a lot of that. I have a Toyota as well, a few months ago I replaced the magnet pully of the AC system. Turned out to be that it was only the bearing making the problem.
Great fix as always! Once the vanes begin to wear and hang up in the rotor, it can cause cavitation in the fluid which breaks down the metal wear surfaces at the molecular level. That rapidly increases wear and ultimately it grenades itself.
That is something i'v never seen before. Very cool how that all works together like that with no pulley seal. I never thought it would be a bushing , even bearings have seals. But I understand the theory and how it works now. Thanks for the show and tell today it was very informative, and fun watching you take it apart. See you on the next one. Cheers
Cool fix! Any time you need to reuse a copper seal washer, heat it to *just* cherry red with a propane torch and allow it to air cool. This anneals the metal and makes it soft again. When copper is worked or compressed, it "work hardens" and becomes stiffer, making a good seal sometimes very difficult when it's reused. Annealing the metal allows the copper to re-form against the sealing surfaces just like a new one will.
With hydraulic pumps, you have aeration and cavitation that cause noise (like gravel rolling around in a can). Too much to go into, but you can Goggle it if interested. Once the pump surfaces are scored, pressure cannot be built properly and doesn't work right.
I'm at 199,500 on my well loved 1992 Camry. It too has made the groan a couple times due to low fluid, but have been lucky so far and just am refilling it occasionally. Thanks for the entertaining content.
Any parts that have a core charge get rebuilt. It's always fun to see how things work and why they stopped working. Maybe it's cheaper to rebuild it ourselves. And you show us how it's done. Love watching you're videos!
Happy you did this. I have a 2001 Tundra with 198,000 original miles on her. Nice to know if the steering goes I have a fix! She's my daily driver. Rusting where the rear flares got salt and water in it here in SE PA.
Hey Mustie thanks for the midweek upload! Have you ever seen the South Main Auto video about the powersteering pressure switch causing the engine to lose computer signal over a certain RPM? It's a really interesting video on troubleshooting and how computers and sensors interacting can cause issues.
That sounds kind of like a "hip bone is connected to the shoulder bone" sort of thing. Or in computing terms, a program that has bugs in places where it shouldn't even have places. I often wonder how they get the code in these rolling networked environments to converge to something even semi-reliable.
Works the same as my air pump for the lumbar / side seat air bags. Vanes didn't retract and scored the walls . In my case flipped the vanes ,filed and lubed with lithium grease. .Good as new.
Thanks for the video. I have 2000 Tundra and everything looked the same under the hood so the video helped me decide to tackle the job myself. It helped big time and made it easier to get it done. Actually the alternator was starting to fail and knew that I had to remove steering pump to get to it from top cuz I didn't want to get to it from under the truck. So thanks very much for the info, I accomplished 2 tasks because of this video.
First time I’ve seen Darren operating with his Cool-Rays on. Guess his future’s so bright, he’s got to wear shades! Another good vid! Thanks little brother!
Another interesting look at something off the beaten trail. - You were almost there, but it's not centrifugal force that pushes out those vanes on that rotor. Look more closely at the disc behind the rotor, you'll see it has ports near the centre, which communicate with the inner ends of the rotor slots [in which the vanes are fitted] and directs power steering fluid in behind the vanes so that they are forcibly pushed outwards to form a positive seal against the stator (outer ring) and build the pressure in the system. A first, I thought that's where you were going with the VW connection. Using centrifugal force alone, would not develop an adequate seal, and fluid would "blow by" the vanes - Path of least resistance back to the low pressure side of the rotor. On the subject of PSF (power steering fluid) yes, it does exist. Volvo use it in their power steering systems. Other fluids if used in lieu of PSF will lead to accelerated wear on moving parts. PSF also contains chemistry to protect and lubricate rubber/nitrile seals. Some systems can use CHF (central hydraulic fluid), or ATF, as would appear to be the case with your Toyota.
I agree with your statement on how it works, hard to explain by words alone with out a picture. I also agree with VetteKid and that a oil failure was the main cause of the wear.
Indeed, I suspect the ultimate failure mode was created by lateral runout of the main bushing. Just enough for rotor and stator to meet and begin shaving metal.
"Clearance Clarence, Roger, Roger. Huh?" (forgive the old school reference) Thanks Mustie for another lesson. That was so interesting! My Tundra is at around 190K so I'm sure that I'll have a similar incident doing doughnuts or outrunning the local traffic down my curvy roads. I'd love to see a comparison between various makes of vehicles like old school Fords or Chevrolets from the 70s or 80s and even the early Toyota's versus today's technology. You had initially imagined a completely different system before you cracked the pump open. Maybe a collaboration with Junkyard Digs or Watch Wes Work.
Pretty good timing. Im watching this on break at work. I actually make these pumps in TN. I cast them then they go to our building next door to be machined and assembled.
My rack and pinion was leaking so I replaces it with a reman unit. The reman unit leaked immediately so I sent it back and decided to rebuild the old rack. Works great now and $200 cheaper. Only downside was that I had to pull the rack twice.
@Mustie1 Had a Lexus IS200 with a failed pump like this. You can unscrew the socket on the pump where the banjo bolt connects (where you had issue with the copper crusher) and in there is a ball bearing, spring and a little mesh filter screen inside for overpressure events (e.g. when trying to turn the front wheels and there is something physically blocking them from turning like a wall). If you take out the ball and spring and give the screen a clean with some carb cleaner and dry it out with some shop cloth, reassemble and that’ll fix it. P.S. fill the pump with fluid before installing and then after installing with engine off and wheels off the ground, spin steering wheel lock to lock a few times and then start engine and run lock to lock while topping up with fluid as needed!
The bearing failed allowing the shaft to get pulled out of alignment and then the spinny parts hit the non-spinny parts. Things got hot and probably overheated the fluid. There appears to be a lot of resistance when turning the shaft after the pump was apart. Also a bad seal is a tell tale sign because once the shaft can be pulled out of alignment, the seal losses contact with part of the shaft. After seeing the tear down and realizing the bearing is hydrodynamic, my bet is fluid deterioration led to the failure of the bearing. The fluid provides lubrication, obviously, but also has anti corrosion additives. Eventually it shears down and those additives get used up. If the fluid gets too hot, especially if it is old, it can oxidize which changes its properties. The vanes on the rotor get forced out by hydraulic pressure.
The innards remind me of a vane pump -- like the one I took apart and repaired -- from a 1930's refrigerator. Used pump to supply air to a crude diving bell made of a 5 gallon oil can. Powered with a 2 hp Briggs motor.
Keep ‘‘em coming with this truck. I have the same one although mine is 21 years old and nothing wrong with it other that I had to replace the radiator.
LMAO, that last second really was the best. I feel that I have parts left over all the time. I got a whole bucket of bolts from God knows what. Everything seems to be working fine, I caulk it off as they must have given me extra bolts washers nuts all the time. This just confirmed that I'm not the only one this happens to. Mustie1 thanks for keeping it real, your mid-week videos are great on breaking up this guy's 5 day a week job.
I don't think I've done many projects without having something left over and it still works fine! Throw it in my bolt and nut drawer for another project!
That sort of wear is often caused by dirty fluid. I change mine about every 50,000 miles and have never had pump trouble. I don't put over 200,000 miles on a vehicle however. Keep those videos coming. Thanks, John.
At first I thought o wow Musties hit the big time. He’s not even worried about the core charge. I should have known better. Lol. Thanks for all you do Mustie.
...thing is, the pump runs all the time, so you don't need to run the steering like that, otherwise you're just pushing air into the steering side of the circuit! Great to see these regular Wednesday vids, and greetings from Ireland! 💪👍
@@yeahitskimmel that's perfectly true, but you do that at the end once it's bled through the send and return. Not only that, but you only need to turn it slowly in one direction at a time - the torsion on the wheel holds the valve open, so you give it time to go through - you can hear it working through the system if you take your time. It's ok though - it's Mustie - he has his own way, and it always works out! 👍
A Vickers style vane pump. Ford used these for years. In really cold weather the vanes don't want to move out on initial start up. It takes anywhere from a few seconds to a couple of minutes for the fluid to get viscous enough for the vanes to move.
Thanks for the vid! I have an 06 Tundra (138K). Was planning on changing the PS fluid soon. May be replacing the pump too. Now I have a good idea of how to go about it!
I like the short videos and the long ones are fantastic because you can really get involved in the long ones the short ones are like a do it your self video not a mustie video long and try to second guess mustie never miss a video thank you for sharing and your time was really great loved it.
Darren, my 94 4runner had a bad steering pump, and I had to replace it. What actually went bad wasn't the pump, but the vacuum assist on the side of the pump that controlled when it would function. An uncle of mine built his own front end loader with all kinds of parts, but he used a power steering pump for the hydraulics. He eventually went with a bigger one from a truck and it worked faster. I've used a power steering pump on a Char Lynn steering valve on a Toyota tractor with a John Deere steering cylinder, and it could be steered without the engine running as it had a built in pump for such a situation. The type steering valve I used was from a forklift, and is commonly used in rock climbing trucks.
I keep hearing about Toyotas having power steering systems go bad, which conflicts with the common assumption that Toyotas are reliable. apparently the cars are plenty reliable, its just the power steering rack/pump
Centrifugal force pushes the paddles partway out the slots. Back in the 80s used to disassemble and clean the graphite paddles in an air compressor which worked the same,or close enough anyway. The boss called it a milkhouse compressor,no storage tank,just steady setable air we used for texturing drywall.
Thank you for the short video in the middle of the week very entertaining I recently worked on my friend's car it's a 1992 Toyota Corolla it almost has three hundred thousand miles on it I had to do the oil pan gasket what a nightmare
That hurt watching you start it dry and wheel it left and right. You are supposed to fill it. Turn the steering wheel with front wheels off the ground and the ENGINE OFF. Several times lock to lock to push fluid through system. Then start it. Any whining at all is causing damage.
@@briansantefort ATF has been used by some manufacturers for decades, and the pumps effectively last forever if there is no external failure trigger. I'm a little surprised that the failure wasn't a notch formed by cavitation. When the reservoir filter screen gets clogged or cold fluid doesn't flow well enough, the inlet side of the pump starts creating enough of a vacuum to allow cavitation. The bubbles, especially the collapsing bubbles, focus energy on the metal surface that starts erosion. The bubbles typically form at the fastest moving highest pressure change region, where the vane contacts the casing. At some point a step is worn on the surface which accelerates the process. Here your description suggest that contaminated fluid was the cause.
At the dealerships we reseal those all the time. You are correct, the vanes should be free to move effortlessly. Usually the rubber seals harden with age & heat which causes cavitation, that is what damages the metal.
Just be glad it was a Toyota. I was driving a 5-ton Dump Truck in the Army about, well let's say, 40+ years ago and the power steering pump on it went out while we were convoyed many miles out of town. I learned quickly to anticipate my turns LONG before needing them to go around corners! Come to find out it was the same power steering pump used in a Pontiac. We could have easily picked one up from a local dealership instead of ordering one; but, NO, I had to drive all the way back without power steering. Lucky I was young or I would have been 'slam worn out' on that trip. Ahhhhhhhhhhh memories.
I concur with both The Blueberries Workbench and Yorkshire Rose. I, too, believe that failure was from foreign matter in the oil. When I saw the wear on the rotor and end plates, I first thought that the rack would likely be the cause of the contamination. Kudos to Yorkshire Rose, who obviously has knowledge of hydraulic pumps.
Mustie, your trip with Mrs Mustie in the heavy snow and finding an abandoned movie theatre was sounding like the start of something like the Rocky Horror Show until you started doing doughnuts in the carpark. Ha!
Excellent video Mustie 1 :) one thing go bad is bearing very rare on lines on less doing loads sharp turn get screaming sounds when turn left or right turn moans sounds but straight doing same think go hose leak out fluid to! But how save pump plus lines also rack is add 100 ml of 80w90 differential fluid every 3 months with same fluid pump takes don't over flow them top off to also spary pentriotion fluid on to inner pulley to were bearing is to ! I done that for all my vechiles and never had pump or lines to yet surprises me or bearing too! Hope tip helps you out and others too ! 80w90 differential does mix up good and save steering rack too plus lubes lines up too! Also I changed Power Steering fluid ever 5 years plus 160.000 kms witch ever come first in years or kms too!
These are very very similar to the rotary pumps that run hydraulic cylinders, they provide pressure to a valve block or in this case the rack, which depending on what input it’s getting different valves would be open and that decides where the hydraulic pressure goes and it drives hydraulic cylinders or whatever the equivalent is on a car, good stuff, this type of pump is a vein pump. I worked on a lot of hydraulics in the past, mostly char-Lynn Rotor type motors
The two independent spinning rotors are probably for two separate circuits, one to force fluid through the rack and the second one to return the fluid up to the reservoir. Harley oil pumps run a similar setup.
There actually aren't two spinning rotors in this pump. The vaned rotor is indexed to the input shaft, and the inner plate that Mustie was spinning is indexed to the rear cover via the pin that you can see protruding from the rear cover when he removes it. Just the vaned rotor spins in these pumps, with all other removable parts being held stationary via similar pin indexing systems.
Subtle confession. Boys will be boys. Two trains of thought on high mileage (older) vehicles. Baby them, or romp on 'em 'til they break. We know what school you went to. Good show.
That's the same pump that's in the Traverse-Enclave-Acadia, and those things are JUUUUUNK! It's amazing that it lasted that long. GM recommended using trans fluid (DEX6) in there power steering systems in those vehicles to help quiet them down, so using trans fluid should be OK. This is the first time I've seen one apart, but I've damn sure replaced enough of them.
I read that Enclaves also had rack issues and needed replacement. Almost like a recall. Also there is a power steering fluid filter that can be installed in the return line. Looks like a big fuel filter.
I have replaced many pumps and a few steering racks. The way I fill the system: 1 poor fluid in, till level doesn't drop. 2 don't start engine but with the wheels up in the air steer back and forth. 3 check level, fill and steer some more till level is constant. 4 now start the engine, don't steer but fill fluid. 5 with running engine steer back and forth and final level check. Even a complete empty system the pump never runs dry or makes noise. But you will see micro air bubbles in the oil. So I go a little bit over max level. It's really cool to use the rack to push the oil though the system and bleed almost all air out.
Hey buddy fyi I own Scion made by Toyota. I rebuilt the engine and put a turbo on it. Point I am getting is next time you need to change ps pump bleed it exactly the way you were doing it BUT don’t start it!! Jack the front wheels off the ground and back and forth about 25 times and it will bleed perfect every time!! Love your content brother.
This reminds me of Blackmer pumps we use to pump diesel off barges. It is a sliding vane system and over time those vanes get worn out until you just can't get prime.
Just a little tip I learned from a GM mechanic he suggested that you start and stop motor in short intervals more like 1 or 2 seconds each time to pre prime the pump without cavitating it. And then top up the fluid every time you do that!! And then you don't get the whing of the pump as it works out the Air!! All the best from Canada
I always pre-prime the pump manually before even installing it, then before I put the belt on i spin the pulley by hand with a full reservoir before i even start the engine. Then i do what your GM tech guy said to do, never had even a little froth in the fluid doing it like that
Interesting are also all the floating components, only hold in place with the long rod on the back plate. The pressure side is the front with pulley and bearing. The pressured oil pushes the assembly together. Neat design. I think the failure was an interruption on the bearing lubrication that caused some play witch caused a disalignment and crewed up the sealing surfaces.
Ford Ranger, known for loud pumps. Mine started going loud just like yours, truckeybastered it out with new 5x times over a few days with new fluid (230k miles). It returned to almost normal sound level (maybe 10% louder then it was vs 300% louder before I kept replacing the fluid). And never had a problem for 35k more and sold it). So... who knows I may of got lucky and had bad fluid due to age and changed it in time to save it.... Keep in mind when I heard it get loud I didn't drive it (driveway about to leave and turned it off, got new fuild in, drove 2 100ft circles to cycle it and repeat suck out old for new 5x times) so I likely was lucky I caught it before it did too much damage. Note: it steered find with no increase noise, but idle I could tell the ps pump was louder. Most cases it starts going away from home, you drive back and damage is done. PS open parking, no crubs for 400ft or cars - lot with snow - why not donut but women for some reason think its crazy....
It's a rotary vane type pump. In the winter when the fluid is cold, you can get that whining sound. Thats air in the system as the very cold fluid cavatates. The cavitation causes little shockwaves which over time can cause the metal to distort(usually the vane) which causes littles chips that will mare the surfaces(as seen in the rotor housing. It's best not to move the steering wheel very much until the fluid warms up and sound goes away. It's a good sign that the power steering pump is getting tired, but often replacing the fluid with OEM fluid is helpful, fluid does wear out . But cause of failure, , Pumps like everything else, wear out but they usually tell you when they are getting tired.
When the pump is operating, the vanes are thrown outward by centrifugal force against the wall of the pump. This is what forces the fluid pressure through the system. I've rebuilt lots of these. All internal components are replaced, along with seals & bearings
I have rebuilt to a few Honda power steering pumps looks like the same pump basically but most of the time it's a seal goes in them and causes air to get in the system and displaces the fluid basically running it as if dry and kills the pump
On Honda Accords the o-ring in that elbow is the most common cause of the whine and a few cents to repair. The symptoms will be the whine with a frothy fluid on cold start. The whine will tend to go away when metal heats/expands and the system seals and clears the air. There are many higher mileage accords that get new pumps when an oring will fix it. If one lets it go too long, the pump will fail. It takes less than a minute to replace.
