great way of showing the resizing process, and exactly what it’s doing to the case. big fan of lee products. have rcbs and lee and lee is my go too regularly. my 38spl and .357 dies are rcbs but they work amazing❤
This convinced me to get the Lee Factory Die as my ammo now will be used in several firearms for cowboy shooting. Replicating factory fit is a necessary step now to prevent loading or feeding issues. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the vid. I just received a four die set and ran 250 rds. of 45 acp. Auto is a different animal and these really solved my issue with indexing. I would advise anyone who is thinking of buying these to do so. I tested each round in my chamber (barrel) and didn't find one that wouldn't drop. The other thing as you mentioned, it that they resize one more time, which I think IS useful. I liked the fact that all of the dies come with a rubber o-ring, hence the operation only requires hand tightening and no wrench, which makes for really easy and accurate adjustment.
Just used my Lee Carbide Crimp Die for 44 mag last night. Puts a beautiful roll crimp on the case. And, it simplifies/takes the pain out of the bullet seat/crimp die step. My first reloading attempts were with 38 special and there was a fine line between getting a good taper crimp and krinkling the cases. With the separate size and crimp die the seating die doesn't need to be set so low. Totally sold on these dies!
The final resizing using the Lee Factory Crimp Die, I now see, is really a "fine tuning" of your completed product. Nicely explained. Clear explanations are hard to come by. Well done. You're helping me from being intimidated by the process through better understanding.
I thought the factory crimp dies were for cartages like 9MM, 40S&W and 45ACP. Now I need to get a few more caliber sizes. Excellent video and explanation... Thank you...
Ed Thomas - Congrats on getting into reloading...it will offer you a lifetime of pleasure, invigoration, practicality and challenge... Please keep in touch - you are always very welcome in the Hot Lead Zone... FC
I have enjoyed your recent uploads. ********Spoiler alert******* The Lee Factory Crimp Die is essential, end of story. It makes rookies like me look like I know what I am doing.
Very well explained. I only load for autos at this time and use the factory crimp dies on all. Important since autos index off the case mouth. Thanks Cookie
mklean1 Always great to hear from mklean1..!! The Lee Factory Crimp Dies are good in all the applications they were designed for...Good reloadin' to ya
Not yet, but I plan to reload 44s for a RedHawk. Funny how your pre-Factory Crimp Dies ammo worked so well, yet after the FCD, their functioning was superior. Nice Demo.
Since I have RCBS dies I can purchase this die for the calibers I desire and use along with what I have. just starting with this hobby. Informative channel…
Hi Steve! So after a bit of experimentation, I'm of tell minds about the fcd. I know that you adressed this in another video before as well. I have the carbide fcd's in 38/358 .40/10mm and .45 acp. I noticed a few years ago that with my bullets sized@.452 for the 1911 the fcd would work at intended with thinner brass such as aguila and s&b, and only post size if I seated a bullet crooked. Now this want the case with ww or tzz brass. In the case of ww and tzz it would post size every round. I wondered if I was losing case neck tension, but anyway didn't seem to suffer do I never looked into it any further. Fast forward to this week. I have began casting for my .40s&w and the line Wolf barrel I'm using requires the boolit be sized to .403. out of curiosity I pulled three dummy rds with the kenetic puller and mic'd the bullets. They were .400-.401! The all came out in a single wack of the puller and I could press the boolit back into the brass it came from with my finger it stopped right on the little indent in the lead from the crimp. Now I did the same experiment with a taper crimp only and no fcd. All 5 tested still mic'd at .403 and required way more wack's to pull apart. I conclude that with most cast bullets and the most common range brass that the fcd is swaging the boolit and killing our case neck tension. In the mean time I have pressed the carbide ring out of my .40 fcd. This isn't necessarily a design flaw from Lee, as it works fine with fmj bullets.I am however disappointed that a company who brought casting to the average Joe doesn't have an option for a fcd that has a larger diameter post sizing ring by .001-.002. I may remove the sizing ring from my fcd's or simply buy a taper crimp die for the cast loads and save the f CD's for the rate occasion that I shoot fmj's. Best regards Steve, and u want you to know that you've taught me most of what I know about casting and reloading and I thank you for that.
Hi there FC45, I've been using the LFC die on my 38 spl rounds done on my RCBS rock chucker the last couple of years with great results. I recently got a Dillon 550B, and set the LFC up as final step. It requires a lot of pressure on the handle when the round gets to that final step compared to what I'm used to. I also tried a small batch of 45 Colts, and the pressure required was so great on the 550 I was tempted to put a little case lube on those big boys. Does this sound normal when using the LFC die in a progressive ? Maybe I'm just not used to a progressive and need to muscle up.
Perfect video on the Lee die; I have one for almost all my calibers I reload. That tension and the headspace gauge are good combo devices. I've made rounds like you and they fit tight or they wouldn't fit my headspace gauge. I have bought Lee's for my other brand dies; RCBS, etc. I use them all the time.
Great videos!!! In my country there is a lot of controversy about LFTCD. Some IPSC shooters don't like it, because modifies the size of the bullets. False!
Ignore my last question This answered it. Minimize blow out around the projectile/squibs and ensure proper fitting in a revolver. However if one takes the proper steps with a 3 die set this can be accomplished. the "Factory Crimp" is extra insurance
T/HE - Have you ever seen revolver shooters load the cylinder and then run their finger over the rounds to give them that extra push in case any of 'em didn't quite chamber? Or with auto pistol shooters where the OAL is not the problem - a round doesn't quite drop into the chamber? If the LFCD is used, none of that is necessary...The rounds just drop right in...Best to ya, FC
Did you happen to do a video on Lee's combination seating/crimp die? I'm currently doing .223/5.56 reloading on the Dillon xl750 press who gives us VERY little spacing between dies and so I have to move things around in order to incorporate the aftermarket case and bullet feeders, and thus need station 5 with having a combo seating and crimping die instead of having them done in 2 separate processes.
I use to roll crimp on revolver loads.....now I use the Factor Crip on all my loads...What a difference !!!!!!!!!!! Especially great when loading 7.62 x 25 Tokorev cast bullets. Straightens the small bullets out in the case, takes any bulge out....
gman77gas When shooters start using the Lee FCDs, it doesn't take long for the light bulb to go off. We just learn to really like 'em, Gary. Their goodness just wins us over. Best to ya
New subscriber but really enjoy the couple videos I've seen so far. About the die: Can the Carbide Factory Crimp Die be used to taper crimp plated bullets in 9mm and .45 ACP? I know care must be taken to not damage the thin plating. Thanks.
tjdinfl First of all, welcome to the HLZ!! And thank you for your participation...questions are not only openly admitted here, but coveted. If a RU-vid poster puts out a video to help others, it is a responsibility to respond to the inevitable questions that result. The automatic pistol shooters were not forgotten by Richard Lee - He has a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die for auto pistol calibers that automatically taper crimps only. If your ammo is rimless or semi-rimmed (38 Super), the Lee FCD is a taper crimp die. In fact, the die is designed so that the maximum amount of taper crimp you can make with the die will not exceed allowable specifications. Yes, you can finely adjust roll crimp dies to taper crimp only, but those dies were designed to roll crimp. To not have to deal with making a roll crimp die go two ways, I strongly recommend the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die for whatever caliber you are loading - Lee takes the guesswork out of it.... Bye for now, Best Regards and please make the HLZ your bullet casting and reloading basecamp...you can go running around and blasting everything in sight, but for lots of practice ammo for the vast amount of shooters without sponsors, the HLZ is a warm home. The tactical stuff is very important, but the shooting world is much more huge than that. When you want to touch off a round and receive the joy in what you can do with a bullet you made yourself - the HLZ is the place to be...(I'm working on my next channel description, and you are helping me do that...)
When I began my law enforcement career, the revolver was king. One of the reasons most departments would not allow officers to use reloads was the danger using a speedloader. If any rounds were tight in the cylinders, they would not drop into the cylinder for a fast reload.
cal30m1 - Reloads were used by LE in the old days - some departments reloaded their own - this was before our time, of course. Today, departments are funded by cities, counties, state and federal...tax money buys all the factory ammo they need. And factory is best anyway for many reasons, tactical, practical and legal... Thank you for your service to our country over your career..!! Best to ya, FC
Sorry for being off topic, Any experience with loading 45lc with black powder? Not alot of info out there and I want to try, you instantly came to mind. Nothing came up when I searched but I would be interested in learning this this from you as you do such an excellent job teaching
John Henry Black powder or BP substitutes go with the 45 Colt like cotton candy. You can't meter black powder with our smokeless powder measures though. The classic charge is 40 grains of black powder or sub - but that was in the old balloon head cases - with modern brass, you can only get about 35-37 grains behind the 255 grain RNFP bullet. What you need is 100% loading density though - no air space between the BP and the bullet or pressure problems result. Many shooters use over powder wads to take up any air space, and if I was shooting BP in my 45 Colts I'd do the same. When you shoot BP, you need to clean your gun and your brass immediately after shooting, but I'm sure you already knew that. I don't shoot BP myself, but every time I see a BP cartridge shooter at the range - it's always a hoot - even when the shots touch off fires in front of the firing line - that's why there's always a hose hooked up during the summer time. Good shootin' to ya...
In reloading 32 acp with the Lee 3 die set and Lee has updated their 32 factory crimp die to add 32 acp I included this in my set. My question is not being a revolver but an auto how much of a crimp should be used. The instructions note one half turn for light crimp and the crimp is roll crimp not taper.Advice if any thanks
Ray Mason - What you need is a taper crimp die for the 32acp - I am not aware of any Lee Factory Crimp Dies for the 32 acp that will give you the taper crimp you desire. Your Lee 32 acp seater die should have some provision for applying a taper crimp. If not, then, of course, explains your search for a crimp die. If you have the FCD for the 32 S&W Long - that will give a roll crimp, but your short 32 acp case may not even be engaged by that 32 S&W Long crimping stem. If you can get it to engage, you can still use it, but very careful adjustment will be needed to produce a minimal roll crimp that still will allow the case mouths to engage the chamber shoulder for headspacing. It can be done, but the taper crimp dies did away with all that. You will need at least to close up any remaining belling from the neck expansion procedures. Crimps are important to prevent bullets from driving deeper into cases on feeding. Some other manufacturers like RCBS provide taper crimps in their seater dies. So to sum it up - i1) f your Lee seater die can give you the crimp you need, you are OK or 2) if your Lee FCD is a roll crimp - and you can get it to engage the 32 acp cases, then just a minimal roll to keep case mouth in contact with the chamber shoulder will be the best you can do. Best Regards, FC
I have been told that the lee factory crimp die will resize the cast bullet a little and if a slightly larger bullet is needed (especially for cast) you may not get the accuracy or it could create more leading. That's why I use the Lyman M die, but I use the Lee for jacketed bullets. Your thoughts?
Brian Robinson The Lee Factory Carbide Crimp die is not intended to make huge resizng of the loaded round. Most of the time when used, we feel varying degrees of bulges and irregularities being iron out by the die before the crimp is applied, we feel some resistance in parts of the case as the case heads towards crimping....This corrective action is very important to smooth functioning of our reloads. I do not get anywhere the force felt when cases are being resized. If I did, those bullets are hugely oversized for sure...Best Regards
o61000 No, and I don't ever see any 7mm mag brass lying around on the range. If you need some, USA Brass Co has 7mm mag brass for 40 cents a case as I recall... Have a great day
I use a factory crimp die just for good measure! Especially for my rossi 92 guns . Just for reliability to me it never hurts . I normally use a light crimp ! Now if u look at auto pistol ammo u don't ever see crimps . Autos don't have the recoil like revolvers do .
Cookie, I have a question. I am loading 223, and every once in a while I get a bulge at the case shoulder, Will the crimp die squeeze that bulge down? I am unsure how to measure or fix this bulge.
Finally got back to these 223a. Building on my learning curve. There a different kinds of crimp dies. For the 223 and maybe for all necked cases the crimp die is NOT a sizing die. So, while provides a beautiful crimp it does nothing for resizing. I also finally bought a case gauge so I can check sizing as I go safely. On my next batch I plan to lighten up on the taper crimp in the seating die to prevent compressing my cases, and will be using the crimp die as the last step.
I was thinking the 32 acp was taper crimp also but I contacted Lee by email and phone looking for a die. They advised me the 32acp was roll crimp and that they had changed the factory crimp die for 32 s @ w to also do the 32acp in January. I went with lee s advice thinking they should know being their business, but now I am in doubt. I have not found data a saying for sure taper or roll crimp. Thanks for you response and if you find any other info forward it please
Ray Mason - The 32 ACP has frustrated reloaders for years. Very interesting that Lee has a roll crimp in there - If you check factory 32 ACP ammo, doesn't have a roll crimp...But it is easy to adjust the crimp to just remove any flare or belling and have some slight crimping into the bullet. If your rounds chamber OK, you can go ahead and test for function and accuracy. Will send more if I run into anything... Best to ya, FC
But what if you use oversized cast wadcutters/semiwadcutters(oversized to prevent leading) and seat them deep in the case, does the factory crimp die resize the bullets inside of the case so that the purpose of using oversized bullets is defeted?
MrTrollgubben - The oversize is not much - only .001" - really oversize is +.003 or .004" - Lee says that as long as the round goes into the chambers OK, the bullets are not too big. But yes they can be. if more that .002 over (say we are loading 38 Spl and the chamber throats are .357 - we need +.001 so we want .358 bullets. .359 are OK. But if the bullets are .360 or more , then we should size 'em down to .358 for best performance. The Lee Factory Crimp Die was not designed to swage down huge bullets loaded into cases to get functioning. That is what detractors of the LFCD are always suggesting. And they don't like the die for that. Here is the acid test - when a loaded round is being run through the FCD, if the reloader feels like some major resizing is happening, then the FCD is being used improperly - the swaging is causing loss of neck tension, even loss of crimp. But if only intermittent bulges are felt being corrected - that is the way the FCD was designed to operate. There is no wholesale swaging of the bullet happening - only bulge removal that would impede rounds going into the chambers. Oftentimes, I only feel a hesitation where the mouth flare is felt and then the round gets crimped. If our bullets are properly balanced (.001 bigger than cylinder throat or groove diameter on auto pistols) then the FCD works just that way. Best to ya, FC
Thank you for the detailed explanation and the many good videos. Ok, so my .358 LSWC bullets is most likely ok to run through the FCD even if seated deep in the case where the casewall is thicker. I could of course test one through the die and knock it out of the case and measure the diameter of the bullet after.
MrTrollgubben - You really don't need to seat your LSWC that deep - If there is a crimp groove, the bullet should be seated so the case mouth is there. If not, the bullet can be crimped on the forward driving band. Seating the bullet deeper raises pressures and gives you more velocity. But of your loads are hot, it would be a hazardous practice to seat them deep. Good reloading' to you, FC
MrTrollgubben - You have some intriguing ammo there...Like you are trying to convert your 38 SPL into the equivalent of 38 Short Colt by doing the deep seating...Interesting. You might not even want to even use the Lee FCD - if your rounds chamber, nothing would be needed Best Regards, FC
Noob reloading question: I loaded a bunch of .223 and then ran them through the crimp die, and it seems that the LFC die cause a reduction in the overall length of the cartridge. Why/how did that happen? I had them where I wanted them, and then ran them into the LFC die, and they were shortened due to it.
+GunsNBudder -- If you overcrimp the case mouth, the collet is grabbing the case mouth as the press is applying the last force to the plunger that closes the collet. It is possible to shorten your round by .001" or so. You are not pushing the bullet more into the case, the case is compressing slightly. Try reducing the amount of crimp and see if the problem subsides. You can also compensate by seating your bullet x + the amount you shorten. The compression does nothing to the headspace or safety of your cartridge, within reason, of course. Otherwise, a call to Lee tech is in order... Best to ya, and thanks for posting FC
Ah ok, thanks a lot. The crimp doesn't look overcrimped at all (I overcrimped some just to see what it looked like in person, and undercrimped some for the same reason, and found the happy medium). I guess I'll just compensate for that when I trim my brass.
+GunsNBudder -- This slight shortening phenomenon also can occur in reverse with the Lee Collet Neck Sizing Dies - if the collets grab and fail to release properly, the withdraw action on the press can actually stretch the brass - unlike your slight shortening, brass stretch is definitely not desired - the collet should release and the withdraw stroke should have no resistance using those neck sizing dies... Best to ya, FC
+Clifford Wells -- Like I always say - you viewers out there don't miss a thing... If you have had the chance to see some of my other videos, Google gives the option for our videos to be "enhanced" - one way is by image stabilization - but the cost of that is there is distortion caused in the video. I don't do these enhancements, but sometimes I do the image cropping to better fit the frame - this also causes some distortion in my videos - on one of them, one of my dies is doing the "Star Trek Enterprise Orion Antennae" thing. On others, a row of 9mm ammo looks like the end one is a 40 cal - definitely not so. I'll check, but I do not believe that my dies are moving like that on my press. But if so, it needed to be die lock ringed for sure... Best to ya, FC
Ok I'm kind of confused now, is the factory crimp die getting ride of bulging in the case of is it doing somthing to the crimp around the bullet? I thought it was for the crimp around the bullet.
FortuneCookie45LC well I started my first batch of .40 rounds today. I'm reloading on my Dillon 650 will lee dies. I have them all setup as to lee instruction. I've debuldged them, full length sized them. I have exaclty a .430 bell for bullet seating and my col after bullet seat is 1.030. All is great up until I run the round into the crimp die. When u set it up it says run the body down to the shell plate, place a loaded round in and follow that up with adjusting the screw until u feel it touch the case. Then turn in in 1 half turn for a light crimp. When i do that it puts a bulge half way down the case and that will prevent it from entering the cartridge gage. I've backed the adjustment screw out less than the 1 half turn recommended. Why would it be doing this? With me not using the 1 half turn am I getting any crimp?
Bob P - Thanks for your comment, Bob..!! I have two Dillon 550Bs set up for the big reloading jobs...but for the purpose of doing these video topics, the single stage does the best presentations... Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas to ya...! FC
Good vid as usual. I use the Lee factory crimp die on all my ammo. On .45ACP and 9mm ammo i use little or no crimp since the case headspaces on the mouth of the case.
G S That is the 50/70 on steroids, like the 45/90 or the 45/120. RCBS makes dies for the 50-95 and reloading data is also available. You won't have any Lee FCD though in that caliber. But with care in not overcrimping, you should be OK without it. Lee makes a 50 cal bullet mold, though. Good shootin' to ya
i have RBCS dies, but there is no factory crimp dies available anywhere. so I will roll crimp as best I can. 50-70 and 50-95 aren't the same bore............50-95 is a .512 where as the 50-70 is .502 Love your vids they are very informative and practical. I just bought a lee press and when my brass and bullets get here for the 50-95 I will try reoading for the first time.........I think it will be a ton of fun and very gratifying.
G S AHA!! 50-95 is .512" "Holy Smokes, Batman...That's a gargantuan projectile!!" Rifle probably weighs more than a fully loaded Garand with fixed bayonet!! Good Shootin' to ya...
G S Just checked - Lyman makes a .512" 425 grain RNFP bullet mold for your 50-95 (you probably won't have to size 'em - just 45/45/10 'em, load 'em and shoot 'em - just in case you get tired of those store bought'en bullets...Have a great day
Crabby Old Warrior - I don't think it's anything to do with her being blond at all...I think your action in this account was ingenious...!! Good reloadin' to ya, FC Steve
joe blow - Great comment... If we only feel momentary tensions as we run the case into the crimp die, everything is going well. If we feel wholesale sizing going on (like running a case into the sizing die), then for sure swaging is happening. The cure would be to then size the bullet before seating it. But hopefully, our gun doesn't have any fit issues that would make sizing a problem. This really shouldn't be a problem. Good reloadin' to ya, FC
Kenander45 - Good question. No. The conclusions on Lee products are based on the reloading done with them. All equipment and components on my videos have been purchased from MidwayUSA, Natchez Shooters Supply, Precision Reloading, Lee Precision, USA Brass Company, Missouri Bullets, Matt's Bullets, Powder Valley, and Cheaper Than Dirt. Best of my recollection the order is on the amount of money spent. I wouldn't mind being sponsored by Lee, but then again, if I was, I couldn't do negative reviews like I did for the Lee Classic Powder Measure - I either got a lemon or the measure needs some redesign. Have a great day, FC
B.S.! If you have a cartridge that won't go into the chamber you did something wrong when your were sizing your brass. And the rest your talk is "maybe SD and maybe ES" bla bla.
