Why We Love This Pencil｜Mitsubishi Uni MH-500 

me too i found a parker pencil on the beach

LMAOO that's nice for y'all.

Sunshine Solace holy sheet

A plein-air artist must have lost it. :'(

Oh dang how lucky! Let me go beach scavenging

haha I love this

that’s engineering!

How about shading, though?

@@MrMalcovic Shading might be challenging if it's a particularly large area; if you're working on an average sized sketch pad, it's just a matter of finesse. I've never had a problem rendering gradients with mechanicals.

@ Jay and Night ASMR, if you draw, and produce better quality artwork with a mechanical pencil than you do with regular high end pencils, keep doing what your doing. It should be about what works for you, and what really helps you draw well.

@@wr245g9 For manga, pencils are typically used for layouts; I'd recommend getting into ink -- you could try out a dip pen set [10USD] and 32oz India Ink [30USD], or maybe Sakura Pigmas/Zebra Brush Pens [20USD - 40USD], etc. Sakura/Zebra pens are expensive and will run out way faster than nibs/brush and bottled ink -- also, pay attention to paperweights; you'll need higher quality paper to deal with ink bleed and nib scratching. You might also need whiteout and/or white gel pen for correction/highlights.

@@MrMalcovic You can shade eith 0.5mm mechanical pencils.It's a sipmple technique and it worls just fine. as it works with any kind of pencil. It's just the way you use the pencil that differs and of course, it can take longer time, to shade and area with a 0.5mm lead,however the result, is the same! The technique goes like this: You use a pinch grip on the pencil and do the motion that the windshield wipers do, to clean off the water when it reains while you drive your car! You don't apply any pressure, in most cases, the weight of the pencil is enough, however, you have to try it foryourself, to find out those details and how it will work for you. It took me a couple of minutes,the first time but it worked like a charm!!

They are nothing like its predecessor

The modern ones are just whatever pencils really. They just have the trade mark and are producing a pencil that looks the same. The original Blackwing-I still have one remaining-was quite in a different league. The lead compound was different. But it was unfortunate put out of production.

Holy crap thanks for the info

Further F stands for “fine” (B = black, H = hard). And is supposedly a leas produced for drawing fine lines. Although if manufacturers really research a special lead compound or just add it as another grade between HB and H I can’t tell. It’s seems that most manufacturers do the latter. To note is however that there isn’t any actual standard to how hard or soft a lead of a certain grade must be. So it differers between brands. Also other characteristics than the hardness differs between brands. E.g. that blackness vs. softness-hardness doesn’t necessarily go hand in hand. How much the lead smears. Break resistance. Etc. The recipes for the lead compounds are likely closed kept secrets, but today you can not only use the traditional graphite but also possibly add carbon (they differ in molecular structure) and other black pigments. Then the traditional clays and waxes, but now also synthetically produced resins and polymers. On the wooden pencil side, there seams to be a trend of producing pencils that has the same feel and workability as graphite pencils, but lacks the metallic shine, and with grades that can go even blacker. If that trend ever reaches the clutch-pencil realm we’ll have to see. If people were still using these pencils for mechanical and architectural drafting-and not those silly computers-I’d guess getting rid of the shine and getting even darker lines would have been welcomed.

Leadholders are a dime a dozen, if you search 2mm leadholder you can get a lot of choice!

I'd rather inherent a Japanese animator as a mentor than some worthless 2 dollar pencil I can buy on amazon.

@@dungofrungus7659 inherit a person 💀

*envious

@@dungofrungus7659 it’s $7

Were you able to use off brand leads with them? Or only the Mitsubishi official leads?

@@huey1910 you can use any lead which will fit the holder

H, H2, H4 are harder you'll get cleaner lines.

You have a great channel too, that I sometimes watch. I recognised the logo.

I recommend using F and H they are best for sketching

@@alvaromontesdeoca7053 I use F for sketching, but with a regular mechanical pencil.

@@JustSomeGuy me too in .3 ,.5,.9

Are they cheaper? The Uni is typically the less expensive option from what I've seen. Where are you shopping? legit question

Yes, Staedtler's mechanical pencil (or clutch pencil) also has a sharpener at the top. I use mine every day.

@@anapalma2906 Oh my goodness, I've been using it for years and never realized that the hole in the top was a sharpener, thank you. Seriously.

@@moonkafu2157 It's a pleasure!!!!

Unis are much better although I do like koh I noor leads since they go a lot darker

Thanks I hadn’t realized why they went out of style. It’s a shame as they provide much better line quality for drawing

@@reginaldforthright805 they didn’t go out of style, they are just more confined to drawing since thin leads are usually more convenient for writing. For instance, if you want a very soft lead (higher than 4b), you have to look at wide leads and respective holders. They are quite widely available in art stores and departments.

@@mishaerementchouk well in the us they are uncommon and I think mostly used by architects. Art stores have only a limited selection. I had to go to Japan importers or import from Europe myself.

@@reginaldforthright805 I am in the US. It’s been a while since I’ve been to a B&M art store, so I cannot say what’s the current situation there but Blick Art Materials used to carry quite a wide variety off all sorts of mechanical and clutch pencils and supplies for them. Their website seems to be stocked up as well.

@@mishaerementchouk blick is way overpriced with IMO a poor selection especially of leads, you can’t get anything dark. I ordered from jet pens (Mitsubishi) and cult pens (koh I noor, faber castell.) I don’t think any US stores carry the faber castell 3.15 holders and leads which are the darker ones. Cult pens has koh I noor leads up to 8b very cheap.

lol ohhh! Thanks for the info!

that's because the mechanical pencils we know of today didn't exist until the 1980s, when Pentel added a bit of polymer to the graphite leads to make it possible to make really thin ones.

The same is true for the lead sharpener. The left hand hole is for 2.00 mm graphite and the right hand one is for larger 3.15 mm graphite.

@@stevenvarner9806 I've never even heard of 3.15mm. Where do you find that, and why would you want it? Anyway, that is NOT what the second hole in my sharpener is for.

@@jamesaritchie1 I have the KUM sharpener with the two additional lead pointers, not just the two-step sharpener. Right on the box it says the smaller yellow hole is for 2.00 mm diameter and the red hole is for 3.15 mm diameter lead. Companies like Faber-Castell make the 3.15 mm leads. Amazon sells them for one.

Or use Asian hand crank sharpener.

You're... A big yikes

Lucky

You must be buying bad mechanical pencils, and cheap lead. Anyway, the Mitsubishi is only around eight dollars. Dirt cheap. There are several brands, and most are good. I prefer the Staedtler, which is only three or four dollars more than the Mitsubishi.

I think the mechanical variant describes the lead holders. in the Fallminenstift the lead is falling out so long on the top is pressure and it's not stopped by the surface under neath. For the other it's one pressing and the lead is a consistent size coming out and for a longer tip some more pressings are needed not a longer waiting time.

@@askialuna7717 We call the mechanisms incremental and drop clutch. There's drop clutch mechanical pencils like the Montblanc Meisterstuck, and incremental clutch lead holders like the Rotring Rapid Pro. People who agree that both kinds are mechanical pencils that hold lead, distinguish between the lead sizes calling the 0.2-0.9 range sharp pencils and the 1.4-5.6 range drafting pencils. Which is also beatable by semantics since both can be used to draft, and both can be sharpened.

OMG YES, the balance on mechanical pencils for me is the most important feature, and im in love with lead holders my dad introduce them to me and bought me my first when i was like 13 or so, he still owns the metal one he used since school. they are so sturdy and supports my dropping bad habits. i got a bit of a collector side thanks to that, and tbh its the only thing i use for draft and mechanical drawing in college.

Evenly balanced doesn't make sense. You hold them at the bottom, you want the bottom heavier than the top.

@@randommcranderson5155 Metal leadholders are made of one material and thus are uniformly weighted. No side is heavier than the other (evenly balanced). Maybe YOU prefer to have a pencil that has one side weighted heavier than the other, but I and others do not. Have a nice day!

@@randommcranderson5155 Actually, that's an interesting discussion point, given that these were originally intended as technical drawing tools. Used as such they are run against set squares and templates, and held perpendicular to the paper or film, so some might prefer the extra mass at the business end. Typically they'd be held at the top by those benighted souls who prefer a conical point, the easier to rotate them, but enlightened folk who sharpen to a chisel edge can hold it where they please. Myself ... not bothered either way, frankly, but I do tend to hold them quite high up, making a nonsense of the knurling (which is outstanding on the Mitsubishi, by the way). None of this makes the blindest bit of difference if you're using it at an angle for general drawing purposes, but point of information and all that. ;-)

@@popesuavecitoxii2379 he’s right it’s much better to have the weight at the tip and all metal is too heavy and impairs dexterity

Mechanical pencils

As crazy as it may sound. There are stub holders. Japanese stationary is at another level.

I love the Staedtler, but I am not a Blackwing fan. They cost far too much, and you're just paying for the name. Faber-Castel and Staedtler art pencils are much cheap, and use the exact same lead. Tombow are a little cheaper, and may be even better than Blackwing. If you really want to draw, but a reasonably complete set of art pencils. Mine go from 9H all the way to 14B, with F, H, and HB between these extremes. Seriously, every name brand set is great. Tombow, Staedtler, Faber-Castell, Tombow, General's, Caran d'Ache, Mitsubishi, and Prismacolor all make very, very good art pencil sets. I have all of these, and I use General's more than any other, but many prefer one of the other brands. Fabel-Castell is very populat, and you can get a set with every lead degree you need to get started for seven dollars and change, or a complete set for fourteen dollars. People who know I draw give me all sorts of pencils sets, including a bunch of Chinese brands. Some of these are just as good as the big name brands from Europe or America, and they're cheaper, if price is a concern. I know several pro artists who have switched over to Chinese art pencils because they like them just as much as any of the other brands. Really, Blackwing pencils are good, but you'll pay at least three times as much as for most of these other brands, and the lead is no better at all in the Blackwing. Just buy good paper for sketching and good paper for drawing. I think the Walmart Pen and Gear paper is by far the best deal for sketching. It's even good enough to do finished drawings, though I wouldn't sell a drawing done on it, just because buyers can be very silly about paper. I use Strathmore for finsihed drawings. But I suggest a very small sketchbook of whatever brand you can find for easy carrying, and the Pen and Gear for larger sketches and drawings. It's 9x12, has a hundred and twenty sheets of good paper, and costs five bucks. Unbelievably cheap.

Weight at front makes it easier to hold. The ad3x is garbage and doesn’t even come in 2mm

There are many brands and models of clutch pencils, some are more front-heavy, some have the weight more centered or even towards the end. Some are also heavier and some are much lighter. Some are longer… some are shorter…. And so on 😊 For precision drawing I use a front heavy lead-holder/pencil (also when using mechanical pencils). When you hold pen quite vertically and want it to put som pressure naturally on the paper. For shading-gripping the pencil more towards the end and holding it more horizontally-a very light and center-balanced one. Then you go softer on your elbow to control the pencil when drawing (don’t use the ankle for controlling the pencil… using the shoulder or the elbow gives you more control when you have learned it). For shading using the softest lead (8B) I use a heavier but center-balanced lead-holder. Because it will put more weight on the paper. You just have to buy a few dozen and try which ones suit your needs. Then you can sell all those who didn’t work for you on e-bay. It’s such a cheap tool relatively how much it is used when you do construction drawings or art. Well…. was used before all this computer nonsense 😊. But your college teachers should have informed you all about this. And have let you tried many different pencils. Since the choice or the drafting tools was/is such a very important factor to the life long ergonomic situation when you work. Also there are other sharpeners that collects the lead dust. Although I have an extra fine grit sandpaper close by so I can continuously sharpen the tip far pointier than any sharpener.

You can put any hardness of pencil lead into it as long as it’s the Mitsubishi UNI 2mm refills. This video shows multiple different holders because they can be purchased that way but they’re all the same shape and they also sell unlabelled holders. Either way, you only need one.

@@DoKiDoKiDrawing aww thanks you mate

You have to buy a few and try them out for yourself. The anatomy of your individual hand and how you personally hold and move the pencil won’t allow for someone else to answer that question. The perhaps most important things to analyze is the weight, the balance (heavier towards the tip or center balanced) and the texture where you grip the pencil with your fingers.

Dzevad Bajraktarevic oh lmao I always thought it magically changed the led type it held thanks

They’re like 7$

The 5.6 mm lead holders,when sharpened can provide a tip that can do all the jobs from super fine detail 0.2mm up to more than 5.6mm when you use the side for shading!! Kohinoor 5340 is by far my favorite sketching pencil for that and also other reasons!! Kohinoor also makes the best Sanguine and Dark Sepia in 5.6mm.Which means its a must pencil for classic sketching and techniques like the Old masters used!

I'm not an artist, but for me H seems too hard, F is about optimal for 0.5mm pens, HB is a bit softer and good as well and it seems by far the most common one. B is something that I feel could be softer and darker for drawing. However I'm used to scale B=1; HB=2; H=3; F=2.5 and it kind of surprised me recently that there are like ten higher and lower hardness pens. I know there exists something that be be roughly translated into english as coalstick leaving black mess everywhere, it was something like piece of graphite thicker than pencil wrapped in paper (koh-i-noor gioconda drawing charcoal, they are still produced)

haha wtf

LOLIAS I’m not even in an art class or do art my family is just full of thieves.

I've never had a Rotring pencil, simply because it always seems like you're paying a premium for the name. However, for technical pens they've always been the gold standard and probably always will be, and my compasses have served me forever. Good company, but decent alternatives exist.

Buying expensive materials doesn't make you a better artist but being comfortable with your materials does. Whether or not those materials are expensive or budget is up to you.

It's called the Derwent pocket pencil wrap

Replying for any future travelers, it's the "Derwent pocket pencil wrap"

Realmente

it's called the Derwent pocket pencil wrap

Yep. That’s the main plebeian why I use mechanical pencils and lead holders.

You know you can plant new trees right and that plastic is way worse for the environment

You have the tip of traditional pencil with the body of mechanical pencil. 0.5 mechanical pencil have only have sharp tip, while 2mm have the versatility of traditional pencil tip

@@Dismiazs thanks, when you talk about versatility are you talking about line width and shading type?

@@erdican7749 yeah. You pretty much only have one line thickness on a 0.5

@@dzevadbayraktar322 Thanks! But yeah, I was more wondering what the price difference was for a brick and mortar establishment in Japan. Amazon has these at $10 and Jetpens at $8.75 when I checked 2 hours ago.

Well it’s the best pencil ever made so why not

Me too I use it for shading , and it works well with blending stump