This reminds me of when I was taking machining classes as part of my engineering degree. The prof took great pains to impart the importance of using plenty of cutting fluid for cooling, cleaning, and lubrication. "Always use plenty of lubrication" The only gal in the class once responded " If you're good, you don't NEED lubrication " It was especially hilarious as she was pregnant. shades of Sarah.
I just started my 66 coupe rebuild. I’m looking to go with a 302 and this is basically a full in depth video. Will definitely rewatch this 100 ish times while rebuilding my 302 once I get it
You knocked it out of the park on this stream. You gave steps to do that others gloss over. Starting anything new takes time but you will get there it just takes time and good decisions.
My Father gave me his copy of “Stick and Rudder” in 1968 when I started my pilot training. I still have it in my collection. The book was written in the 1940s and is an explanation of the art of flying. A very worthwhile read for any aspiring pilot. If you’ve ever seen the movie “Red Tails”, you’ll see a copy of that book being used in Tuskegee.
Swapped out a very tired 289 to a fresh from salvage-yard 302 with attached C4. Was surprised with tire chirp on the1-2 shift. Fun engine for a light stang. (Was a friend’s Mustang, not mine). He had a couple fun machines, the other was a 69 Stingray, High Perf. 327, which did not like the unleaded fuel mandated by the AQMD and or State. (That was a mechanical ign. advance -delay- tune project). Was still a strong runner after detune).
Good to be reminded about Ford valve lash settings. Been a while since I've done one and I have a 302 sitting on the stand ready for a refresh before we put it into my buddies YJ. Thanks Angle
Some heads for the 302-5.0 use different springs for the exhaust and intake valves that are different in hight, so if you are having to move shims around make sure that you don't mix up an exhaust spring for an intake spring
Variations in head gasket thickness, torque, and even the little you "hand machined" from the deck and heads can cause the shims to be a little too thick.
Angel, I absolutely applaud your commitment to your channel. I'm a "do whatcha gotta do to be where you want to be" guy too. You're making great content my friend!
Angel, when I served in the Army as a Helicopter Mechanic, that spinner wrench was a must for unscrewing all the Phillips heads screws on the body access panels.
Only Torque To Yield head bolts need to be replaced , regular bolts can be reused as long as the threads are good , nothing looks damaged or really rusty. Also Torque to Angle bolts can be reused too, just inspect like I mentioned above. 😃 Also using studs can make it harder to get the heads off with the engine in the car if there are things in the way in the engine bay, because you need to lift the heads way up off the studs.
Angel, great video again. Your valve lash adjustment / number of shims may have changed due to previous error or due to slight changes to the head/block - remember you didn’t machine them and/or slight differences in the gasket thickness.
The less preload on the hydraulic lifter, the less it can " pump up" in case of valve float or loss of valve control by the spring. I believe the minimal preload was intentional by the previous builder.
I am impressed with what and how you are doing it. There was a time when I was young worked crazy amount of hours only to rub 2 nickels together and a wish. But I did it, and so can you. Looking forward to your absolute success.
Whoa... that hit me right in a 'core memory'!! I remember watching my Dad and his mechanic friend doing this procedure on an engine, when I was a kid.. and I sort of had an understanding of what was going on. But this was exactly it!! So freak'n cool!! As I mentioned - a total bummer about selling the Egg... but I truly respect the move! Keep your eyes on the prize.. and you'll be surpassing Eggs in no time! *edit* - Oh yeah.... that's HILARIOUS that you wrote our names inside!! hahahahahaha
Just an FYI, ARP head bolts are reusable. But you can't beat $80 studs. Also, there isn't really any particular maximum limit to a stock 302 block. There are guys who have pushed 1,000hp and run 8s on the stock 302 block. The old rumor that they split at 400 or 500hp is an old wives tale. They survive really well as long as harmonics, oil, and RPM are at the proper levels. Or you can destroy one at 200hp if it isn't built properly.
Ford rocker arm bolts should be just torqued. With hydraulic lifters you need a little bit of preload on them. As long as the block or heads weren't decked the original ones should be fine. Worst case you need shorter ones. Chevrolet generally need the preload set till the pushrod stops spinning plus half turn, or something similar. Mechanical lifters require a gap to be set, valve lash. That can be interesting depending on engine. My subaru isn't fun to set, bucket shims get changed. My 65 dodge is easy, factory adjustable rocker arms.
If you are going to use a Dura spark distributor then AL-482 is the small male cap number and the rotor is a regular FD-311. It saves room and looks way better than that big ass duraspark cap.
Depending on the coil and ignition box, you might get some cross-ignition in the cap and that is not good. Ford and GM went to large distributor caps on HEI ignitions for a reason.
plethora - i had to look it up Angel. Did Karen become "shy" ? Sarah's '23 into '24 bloopers vid said she would take over Sarah's merch site.. wondering.
Hi Angel, sorry to hear about the GTI. Maybe something will happen and help the situation. You seem to really like the little car looks like it does a good job for you. Out curiosity having never used head studs like those do you have to torque them when installing them? I don’t think you can overlubricate those pieces with a dry clean block and parts. Stay cool
when you install head studs you just wind them into the block finger tight. because they bottom out you dont want them tight as it could crack the block. all the instructions come with the set. usually torque specs are different too.
It looks like the person who tried to rebuild the engine before you, obviously didn't know nearly as much as you do, about building an engine. Because they scewed it up which is why it wasn't used. Like the broken rocker arm in the oil pan.
I know people are definitely going to argue with me but ARP head bolts can be reused if they are fairly new and not stretched to hell I have a 302 making about 365 horsepower and I have the same ARP head bolts that I've reused three times now. also the 302 ho roller block can handle more than 3 or 400 HP as well. Btw good job at explaining the valve adjustment on the gt40 heads, a lot of people think because they are pedestal mounted rockers that you just talked them down and forget it but that's definitely not the case if you have had valve work done the shims definitely coming to play especially if you're even just putting hey you set of heads on a different engine.
You said that the head bolts can not be reused once torqued down. I have to disagree with this with this engine. This engine doesn’t used torque to yield fasteners. I have overhauled many small block fords and never replaced the head bolts and never had an issue! I’m not trying to pick apart your procedure just pointing out misinformation for your viewers!
Crank specialist again. didnt surface the heads, AND didnt check the heads were flat. Come On Mate! this is like a driveway rebuild. im not saying the engine wont work. but if it doesnt, you've wasted all this time.
