WHY YOU NEED A RELAY AND HOW TO INSTALL A RELAY 

THIS IS THE TYPE OF STUFF THAT MAKES ME HAPPY IN THIS WORLD, PEOPLE DOING THINKS. THINKS THAT MAKES PEOPLE HAPPY. GOOD JOB.

About time someone did this to the scale you did. I learned by trial and error.

130 MA to trigger a relay typically. Eight amplifiers Daisychained remote wires without relay 48milleamps…less than half the draw

I literally just got these in the mail and was researching yesterday how to wire them. Thank you so much for this.

ima have to do this to mine when I get my jp amps thanks Jacob

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but IIRC Barevids tested this and concluded that you ONLY need a relay if you are running high current draw fans. Just for amplifier remotes you do not need one as they draw only a couple dozen milliamps each.

Good job Jay 👏 👍 👌 🙌

I would go around the head unit remote wire with an audio control device, but those relays are more budget friendly, I would have not thought about this myself, thanks for instructional video.

I really like how you explain as you go. It helps a lot. Thanks

im just using a regular automotive switch rated to 10a. I actually had problems with this on a old high power class a-b amp. Got rid of the amp because i didnt understand that the remote didnt get enough voltage on full blast, so the amp just turned on and off and went into protect.

So I added a relay to my set up, but my subs still clip and they still pop when turning off my car or in idle when im in auto stop.

Geez, it's 2022. Relays are sooo 15 years ago. Get an sPod or multi gang switch panel... basically a relay distribution box.

Everyone watching this. You most certainly 100% do not need to use relays. Amplifiers only need milli amps to switch on. Barevids ran 8 amps all together from one source and they all together drew 43 milli amps. A normal head unit remote is one Amp out. So you could run 16 amps together with no issue. And the relay itself draws more than all those amps together.

Thank you bro so far you’ve taught me about subsonic,lpf, how to run second battery, matching voltage from head unit to amp. All within about almost 2 year span! You’re the man brotha

Relay will help with turn on or off pop, even using a dsp

it take more amps to power the relay then to power 20 amp turn on my brother had 12 amps and we never put in a relay its more of a risk adding them do to voltage spikes. Use the remote to turn on amp and the relay to just power the fans and what not

Damn, son; you have a rat's nest of wires going on with that project you got there! 😆 As long as you know what's what, that's all that matters. Congratulations on your growing channel. I enjoy watching your videos. To better explain a relay: a relay has a coil (a load) along with a set of contacts that allow electricity to pass through onto another load. That other load can be anything that consumes electricity (e.g., an amp, a lightbulb, etc). When the coil becomes energized (whether it's through a switch, or it's installed directly to the battery), it creates a magnetic field. That magnetic field causes those set of contacts to pull in, or close, and allow electricity to pass through onto the load that you would like to control. In the world of electricity, you have loads and switches. As stated above, a load is simply anything that consumes, or requires electricity to use. A switch simply passes electricity onto a load. Look at a switch as a bridge over water. When it's closed, electricity (or vehicles in the analogy used) can pass through. But if it's open, electricity can't pass. Inside of a relay, there is a load on one side of it, and a switch on the other side. You have to provide power to both sides (the coil and the contacts). Because, in order to provide power to your switched load, you have to provide power to the coil first. If you look at his relay's spec sheet that he's showing you in this video, pause the video and look at the four diagrams on the bottom right - particularly the lower-left one. See the little squiggly line running between terminals 85 & 86? That's your coil. That symbol represents resistance, which is what a load contains. If there was no resistance and electricity was aloowed to pass through, there would be an immediate dead short. You would pop a breaker, blow a fuse, etc. Electricity HAS to be consumed in a resistive load. I'm sorry; I got off track! 😆 Remember: When the coil becomes energized, only then will electricity be allowed to pass through onto the other load. Hoped that helped at least one person.

This does not make sense as the whole idea of a 12 volt trigger is to run a very small amount of current, around 5mA, to "trigger" the circuit to power on. Sounds more like you are overloading the circuit by not having enough power to properly turn on the amplifiers after the circuit is triggered. This could damage the amplifier and other related equipment.

Couple points of contention. I’ve been told many times this exact same thing, but the math doesn’t support the claim. Turn-on transistors in an amplifiers circuit are all basically the same (whether surface mount or hole) regardless of the amplifier; it’s a teeny tiny electric switch. High powered amplifiers do not use more amperage to turn the amp on than a low powered amplifier, this is a misconception. The circuit is opened with an absolute minimal draw. All it does is turn on the circuit which has nothing to do with the current draw for the amp. It does not matter whether you have a 50 watt or 50,000 watt amp the remote turn-on draw is extremely low and probably within a few milliamps of each other. On average, most head units remote output is about 1 Amp. Even if it’s half that (like 500milliamps), the amp is only going to require, maybe 50 milliamps to 100 milliamps to close the switch and open the circuit, turning on the amp. The math tells me that you could turn on 10 amplifiers without using a relay and you would not strain the head units remote output (it would actually be less for all amps in a 10 amp set-up combined than the relay requires on its own). I advise that you run a 16 AWG with a fuse that is rated for the maximum of the remote amperage output as specified by the HU manufacturer. if you are running a long run, then use a simple single to multi wire distribution block, or daisy chain them all, good to go. The relay actually takes close to 450 to 500 milliamps just to flip the coil inside the relay, much more of a draw than 8+ amplifiers daisy chained from the HU. Additionally, the protection circuits you are talking about run off and are respondent to the amplifiers current draw from the battery, not the remote turn on switch. Once the amp is on, it is on, unless the current draw from the battery is way to low which is a completely different issue. I’m all ears if someone can tell me otherwise (mathematically) .

The snakes 🐍 marred on the back 😁

Thanks for the info 👍🏽 can you hook up more than 1 remote wire to a relay?

Thank you for posting these videos Jacob! I am trying to figure out my amp issue at the moment, my sub was pounding good and I went in the store and came back out and now it is not as loud.. both voice coils read 2ohm so wondering if my amp is damaged…

great video!

Relays shouldn't be used for running amps. It's been proven, it would take roughly 16 amps to equal the power consumption of one relay. Especially those larger 12v 30-40 amp relays. Those require about 160ma to switch on. 8 amps require roughly 50ma. Now if you're also running fans that exceed the remote power load of the stereo or ignition power, then of course the use of the relay is advised. But not needed for the amps alone.

I use a fuse tap to an ignition fuse for my bass amp remote. It's worked for 2 years now. But I'm getting ready to install a 4 channel and a Steve Meade voltmeter. I'll need 2 more turn ons. Also would I use a 40 amp fuse online with this?

Jacob quick question where did you get that stereo case?

I have a setup of a sony headunit, clarion eq, mass audio 3 way E crossover, JL 4 channel amp and RF powered Sub connected with dist.block. There is a relay connected in between my headunit and eq but its not connected properly as it doesnt turn on correctly. The eq turns off at the end after headunit and all the devices. How do i make the eq turn off with the key and let the headunit turn on/off normal with the rest of the devices?

I use those same relays, haven't replaced one yet

I wondered why I needed a relay in my car….well I had fans and lights to my remote too for my amp and box so that’s also why I’m sure

Or use a multimeter to test wires

I just got installed a 10 inch sub with an amp but every time i shut off the car i get a thump noise from the woofer.. any clues of what it could be and how to fix it ?

Yo ja, will the actual replay from a expedition work?

I need one of those plugs with 8g on it for a external voltage regulator. Any idea where to find one with 8g?

Why not just use a dsp like a PRV AUDIO DSP 2.8X Car Audio Crossover and Equalizer 8 Channel?

Do I need to hook a relay to each amp ?

You need a relay if you're running fans or lights

Easy test, use any cheap volt meter with the current draw test, and see what each amp requires. If any amp needs AMPS to turn on, you have problems other than "Current" for remote turn on. Remote turn on inputs don't require "current" or "amps" to turn on. Nearly ALL class AB, Class D and Full Bridge only need about 4ma, or roughly 0.04 amps to turn on. Most stereos have a 1-5 amp remote. 10 large stereo or mono amps is roughly 0.40 amps or less. So about 100 amplifiers is about 1.0 amp draw.

So that relay going control all 4 amps?

My question is, what amp relay if I'm running 3 amps ? 1 wolfram aw9k 2 wolfram 250.4s

See you tomorrow 👋👋👋

Question , Now that you know that the relay is doing its job , do you tap into the relay with all your amps?

Damn, I was just wondering about these. So good timing lol.👏 question, I got a 64ah headway bank, and 300a alt charging at 14.8 🤷‍♂️ would you leave the D3400 in and use isolator for headway bank and maybe have .4 to .6 voltage drop (to not overcharge headway past 14.4) or just run em parallel and say screw it with no isolator? Know that's kind of a deep question lol.

So one relay would be good enough for multiple amplifiers.

I had a relay installed for my amps and I would get a really nasty pop when I turned it off through the speakers

Too quick of a video, I will have to find a diagram for what wires go where, is it one relay for all 3-4 amps? and what size fuse to use at battery? its confusing when new at it

Yeah its becoming clearer that people are not understanding how things work. Law of diminished output., a clear understanding of how the process works and not just end results.. The relay is not powered by the remote turn on folks .. It has jack to do with any thing except say we need ⚡️.. That and the rest of we got a great reduction in points of failure. One relay and if its not getting power theres your problem

You should invest in butt connectors, plug in wire connectors, etc. Using 120 volt wire nuts is a definite no no for car audio. That's quite a mess you have there.

incorrect info, it takes more amprage to power the relay than it does the amps, sam at bare vids did a video on this myth.

Fun fact- a relay takes more power than daisy chaining 16 amplifiers to a signal wire. A relay is completely unnecessary, and will actually draw more than just running the wires across to each amp.

Relay take more amperage than your amps!Measure amperage of control terminal then what amperage your really takes!More wires and more complicated system but what for???

Nop....you dont need a relay A Relay draws more current than most car sound system, Do your research.

You need to watch Barevids video to understand exactly why you do NOT need a relay.... Your four 8k amps 100% pull less voltage to turn on than the actual relay itself. Daisy chain your remotes plain and simple, like we been doing since the 80's

This makes no sence you don't tell us what kind of relay you keep saying 4 wires but you put a link for a 5 pin

What you saying is not accurate about remote wire

Bs Already debunked by barevids the relay sucks even more power from the headunit Then daisy chain 4 amps

This is absolutely false, that you need a relay. Several devices hooked yo to the remote turn you do not need a relay. They sense voltage, and use very small currents. Usually amp turn on is rated 200 to 300ma. Also if you do not have a bucking diode on the relay you can damage the amp turn on circuit do inductive kick from the relay coul. If your stereo sytem.or head unit shuts down its because your system voltage is likely dropping below minimum turn on.. Don't believe me, unhook your amp turn on blue wire and measure the current draw with everything turned on.

YES SIR! A MUST HAVE FOR MULTIPLE REMOTE TURN ON's!!!

To much bla bla bla not wowingbnoting

Is it just 1 relay that you'll need for any big setup or build, or do you need more then 1 sometimes. I tried looking it up on Google, but there's no information about it.