WHY YOUR RIFLE ISN'T ZEROED - HOW TO PROPERLY ZERO YOUR RIFLE - TRAVIS HALEY 

Sounds like you just didn't have a good zero. Outside of major humidity change or different ammo, your zero shouldn't change in a day

@johnadams673 You have alot to learn. The way the light hits your optic/target changes the way you see your dot. You may have to adjust intensity of your dot to compensate allowing for a more precise or less precise hold. Layers of clothing changes. Weather changes. It all matters. Back then I was shooting centered 5 shot groups in less than the size of a half dollar. It would still change the next day. Minutely, but it would change.

@johnadams673 Also to your point it was south Louisiana. Humidity is next level 😂

I would encourage anyone to go actually test your zero several days in a row, if you can, and test the theory that your zero shouldn’t change day to day.

You must suck at shooting

Glad it was helpful!

Yes this was very well put together. The method of each instructing various parts was engaging and a refreshingly nice touch never seen before.

@@HaleyStrategicPartners Keep riding the short bus by teaching a bad technique of pinning those triggers back!!! SAD!!!

​@johnl-cz2qg how bad are we talking?

You'll be a better shooter for it. All these kids talking lead sled and bipods, nice your weapon is zeroed *what can you do with it*

There is a difference between chasing an inaccurate zero, and rezeroing due to changes in elevation, load, or weather conditions

Make sure you are chasing the zero and your shooting capabilities. Zero the rifle on a shooting rest if you can. That way you know you are zeroing rifle and not the shooter.

Do yourself a solid. When I have trainees who seem to chase the zero, it’s often because the front sight post is just too damn wide shooting at a 25m zero target silhouette that is too damn big. Remove your front sight blade or post and gently grind it to a point. Add a dab of bright contrasting color to the very tip. Make your target a black dot the size of a quarter. And key to it all is repeatable muscle memory on your cheek to stock weld. Same position every time. Using the pad of your trigger finger is great for basics, but you’ll get much better muscle control of your trigger finger by using more of your finger on the trigger. Big middle joint. Squeeze slowly while keeping your sights locked onto your target.

I’m in the same boat and this zero tutorial is awesome. I haven’t found a safe wilderness range better than 100 yards where I’m at but I’m always looking. Maybe it’s time for a trip to the desert. Great info!

🙏🙏🙏

lol. working in a gun store is NOT a qualifier for knowledge. You could have left that part out entirely.

​​@@PB8man But working in a Gun Store while knowing and understanding basic fundamentals of shooting and getting a zero then listening to 95% of the slackjaw jackasses who buy one box of 30.06 ammo a year and spue bullshit about Mu Ought Six can kill a Deer at 500 yards EVERY SHOT! and I haven't had to touch my Tasco Scope in 15 years cos it's DEAD NUTS is probably what he is talking about. Of course I know quite a few guys who work at the Gun Shops around here in NC and they are very good shooters and reloaders. Hell some are good enough to be sponsored by several Gun Manufacturers and Ammo Companies. 🤷🏻‍♂️

​@@PB8manhe didn't use it as a basis of knowledge, just as a basis for him hearing all the different "wives tales" regarding zeroing

Opinions are like assholes. Everybody has one.

Same here! Used to the Idaho desert floor.

Cement slab here hahaha

Just remember to fill your mag divot after shooting lol

safety violations sleep on the range 😂😂😂😂

Here in Northern Nevada we have dirt. The only ranges like that here you have to run really short sessions because the white ball cart people throw a fit.

Sticking mag in the dirt works out to 500m.

@@GNpatent become the tripod.

@@re-dacted.I was born that way

Put as much torque and pressure on the weakest part of the weapon system... then lift with your back in a jerking twisting motion

@@11BeezDD214 That's funny.

Hate leads to high ammo bills due to frustration. - Me

I will not !

lol WTH!

From the company that brought you the iPhone and the iPad comes iKill 😂😂😂

If it were somehow hidden in the furniture I could maybe get on board but on lower Apple out looks as ridiculous as it sounds.😂😂😂

​@@stereothrilla8374the Idoomstick

AATW!

🎉

My buddy did a 25/300 on a 7.5 in AR and around 150 was point of aim making hits. My 16in gun needs hold unders at those same distances.

@@TALIZ0RAH I am a Military Rifle Instructor assisting the USAMU deliver SDM Training. This training is compliant to the 25/300 meter battle sight zero concept from an M4 or M16A4. What is most important is actually shooting at 300 meters to get the desired results, which includes a bullet drop compensation function in addition to the battle sight zero. At any rate, sounds like you are smart to see where your groupings fall at various distances. If you have an interest in becoming an accomplished marksman with your AR sign up for next year’s Small Arms Firing School, a 3 day Service Rifle Training event in late July at Camp Perry Ohio. The training is mostly marksmsnship with the Service Rifle where you will become knowledgeable about what’s important to good shooting in Service Rifle Competition. All coaching is provided by Champion Military Shooters/Trainers. The training concludes with an Army M16 Match which will both test and allow celebration for your newly developing marksmanship skills. Lots of fun and you will take home the credentials to be able to enter both NRA and CMP governed high power rifle tournaments anywhere they are held in the country. Many of these tournaments have Military participation so you will often have the opportunity to test your skill against the best shooters on the planet, the United States Army Marksmanship Unit.

It will work for any ammo with similar ballistic properties, however it will not translate from one ammo/barrel length to another (if changing barrels is a thing you do).

Right. I did a 50/200 on my 16" but I only did a 100y for my 11.5" since I apparently learned that the effective tumble and fragmentation envelope for the m193 from a barrel that short was only like 40 to 90 yards.

Well said. 👍

Same same same same. Yes! A chronograph is a valuable tool as you start to shave fractions of an inch off your groups. Differences in ammo make a big difference.

If you "roll your own" then keeping quality records is a must.

different types of ammo causes zero shift, lmfao.

@@investigativeoutcomes9343 Oh yes it does.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

I don't zero at 50. I zero at 200. This is the only way. Or zero at 300. I won't argue. But 25, 36, and 50 are NOT zeros.

@woodsghost9088 dependent on your rifle, the short zeros are long zeros, but I get what your saying. Its why I confirm at 200. Its usually right on the nuts

@@nateh2652 nice! Maybe I'm doing something goofy. I'm not usually on. I'm usually off by 12-16 inches and then need to tune at distance. So I will sight in at 10 50, 100, 150, and finally 200. And just monitor what is happening at each of those distances. I probably have a consistency problem or something.

​@@woodsghost9088if its a new optic/rifle or a new ammo or similar 50 works good just to make sure it's on paper and you aren't wasting rounds. Then if you want the 50/200 zero, take it out to 200 and confirm/dial in. If you are using something like a second focal plane LPVO with a BDC, typically those you want to zero at max magnification at 100 and then you should take it out to 200 and 300 if possible to confirm if the BDC is accurate for your ammo load and barrel length.

@@SPIRIT-117 thanks man. I'm mostly using irons or red dots. I think with a big enough target, 50 gets you on paper at 200.

I saw it as 100, he simply acknowledged that puts the 50 yd at 1.5” below zero

@haleystrategic6 argh, I have already zeroed mine to 36 yards. Oh well, more range time for me!

@haleystrategic6 thanks for clarification

​@CharleyVCU1988 These are rules of thumb. In my opinion you should find out what your projectile out of your particular rifle is actually doing, and zero to maximize your point blank range

@@CharleyVCU1988I watched Sean Ryan here on the Tube and he gave a complete explanation of the difference using the 50,36and 100 yard zeros. I like the 36 Yrd zero because as Sean demonstrated that the spread all the way out to 300 was about 6 inches. The same spread that’s about the size of a music CD..But that’s using a Red dot optic such as an EOTECH /Aimpoint etc..And with the 36 you don’t need to change your zero so often. Not to say you shouldn’t check it. But however, when using my LPVO I use the 50/200. So depending on your OPTIC it’s ok to use the 36..It’s become my favorite zero.

I disagree slightly. You are always part if the equation. The shot is a combination of you and the rifle. You are one with the rifle ideally. If you take yourself out of the equation when zeroing, then you are setting yourself up for problems in a real world scenario, because now you ARE part of the equation. I think regardless of your particular discipline, it's essential to zero your rifle in a position that's as close to how you intend to use it as possible.

We appreciate that

What does being a marine have to do with it lol

​@@Furiouspenguin27💀

​@Furiouspenguin27 considering the Marine Corps has the most in-depth rifle marksmanship qualification of all the services, it has a lot to do with it. Of course, not every Marine meets the highest standards of those qualifications, but those that qualify in the "Expert" tier know damn well what they're talking about when it comes to basic rifle marksmanship.

​@kychristell1779whether a Marine is a pog or not has nothing to do with their ability to hit the target. I've seen plenty of grunts go unq on the range.

@@TheDAP8576 okay boot. I shot high expert in rifle and pistol qual, I’m very aware of the Marine Corps qualifications. You shoot once a year and it is not hard at all to pass or even hit expert. It’s cringe to start off any comment with “as a Marine, soldier, vet, etc.”

This Florida range keeps things very well maintained

for real. what the fuck is this 😂

Here’s the backstory. We had to play the game by teaching BCT POI for group/zero, but if you remember, we’d actually group you low on the black silhouette of the 25m zero target. There was a reason. Then we’d take you out to the acoustic feedback LOMAH range (with the little TV screens) to verify zero at distance and get you dialed in. But after that, we would deviate from the POI by taking you out to the KD range on Dixie Road. You remember, the huge open range where you moved closer and farther shooting from different burms, while a platoon was behind the final burm lifting and lowering targets. That’s where we adjusted you for a 200m zero (50/200), which was the best all-around zero for the shortest vertical shot string. We would adjust both irons and 68’s out there. It’s also where we taught you to piss in an open field by taking a knee. Fun times baking in that goddamn heat, so we’d do y’all a solid and call the gut truck out for powerades and pizza slices. We only did this with 11B’s. For my third year on the trail, I got sent to Relaxin Jackson where it was just shake my fuckin head non-combat MOS BRM where we couldn’t show the trainees all the finer combat applications techniques. Hated it.

We had some ridiculous number of people qualify expert with those 68's. I actually had a Harder time zeroing a acog in theater with the little red delta reticle at 50m than I did the cco. Great times.

@@nivonis393 True. The 68’s were such a game changer that they became standard on all BCT rifles. I’ve got a serious love/hate relationship with my ACOG, so I feel ya. That short eye relief. Back in the day we were hoping for a 3x version of the 68.

I want to know as well. 😅😅😅

Too easy to spot and remove. At least hide it in the grip

​@@911_dan2Thats the point. They remove the one they can see and think "got it! All good"...

@@joemo1033 this is genius.

@@joemo1033 well now they are gonna look in the grip because you gave it away!

Generally speaking, I figure out what my max point blank zero is first, and then worry about if any of that stuff matters. Unless you are in very open areas, its rare for more than a 300 meter shot.

@@takingbacktoxic7898300 meters or yards?

While 100 yd zeros have purpose, what is your gun doing up close is also reasonable question and practical. I believe this is what this vid is trying to convey - know where your impacts are over a spectrum, not just a single data point. We used to zero at 36 and then confirm at 100, and this gave a reasonable idea if you caught the trajectory on the front end or the back end for shorter shots.

it shouldn't be 100 yards it needs to be 100 meters. Understand bullet climb at 25-100-200

Depends. Different holds and positions have an effect on POI. It's insignificant in some weapons and very significant in others. Many firearms people aren't even aware if hold sensitivity, but I am hyper aware of it as I compete with spring piston airguns, which experience radical POI shifts if you change your hold. It's usually best to zero how you're intending to use the rifle. It eliminates variables, and you are also zeroing according to practical accuracy that you can achieve in a realistic scenario. If you're concerned that you aren't achieving pinpoint accuracy, fire more shots and get an average. You aren't going to be as accurate as that in a real world scenario, so why fool yourself with bags?

@@Patrick-857 So why not zero standing and unsupported?

@@dammain1068 You could. It would waste a lot of ammo though. Maybe the test to see after you zero from a more stable position and see what effect it has. If your intending to use it standing, then it's probably important to know what effect it will have.

@@Patrick-857 I understand what you are saying, but you aren’t “fooling yourself” with bags. You are helping to eliminate shooter induced error. If the bags give stability then you know that the zero is as close to the ballistic path as possible. If you are low when you shoot standing then you know you are anticipating recoil. The bags allow for the natural recoil of the rifle, as opposed to a sled. Your air gun has a forward recoil impulse which is why how you hold it can effect the impact.

@@dammain1068 US Service Rifle Competition demands shooters have good zeros for prone, sitting, and standing position at each distance target is engaged from a position. In my case I have 11 zeros which are for a no wind condition. The standing zero required 3 weeks of daily 50 minute dry/ live fire exercises to get a corollary between shot calls and strikes to actually understand my error precisely. It was worth the effort though, taking me from a 92% standing score average to a 96% average standing score, which helped me earn the US Distinguished Rifleman Badge.

What 55gr bullet has a .371 BC?

@@l800x8 sorry for the miss info 55g is approx BC OF .243, I swapped the BC with my custom 77g elite match. Thanks for picking that up, as I hate to give misleading info. I have corrected the initial post, thanks again!

I agree. I'm a firm believer in finding your optimum zero within a defined killzone, so you can maximize your point blank range. This is absolutely dependent on your setup and your ammunition. It's how all hunters and tactical shooters should zero. I don't zero this way as I'm a target shooter, and while I still maximize point blank range either side of my zero, I am downright autistic about never dialing down, only ever dialing up. This means my zero is at the apogee, not midway between apogee and near/far point blank range. It's a slight shift, but I'm still determining my zero distance based on real world data, not some rule of thumb.

@@Patrick-857 absolutely agreed! Max point blank range is not perfect in target or competitive shooting but if you understand the concept, it opens you up to calculating a great shot! My opinion was that in a combat or shtf situation, where distance is unknown but critical, IMHO max point blank range would, again in my opinion, would be the better choice. With that being said, you’re going to have to know your weapon, all the bullet characteristics and velocity. It’s not for everyone but for those who are serious shooters, the better choice. You’re right there is no rule of thumb, every senecio is different; so many variables so little time.

I came here wondering this too.

Same

😆 me two that's smart he knows where it's at at all times

I'm guessing it gets put on a plane somewhat regularly.

It's not complicated

Yea I'll take "that didn't happen" for 500 lol

Rules of thumb are just that. Doesn't necessarily work with the myriad of setups in civilian hands. In the military maybe, because everyone gets the same setup. Ideally you find the zero distance that optimises your point blank range for your particular setup and ammo. Every other approach will cause anomalies.

For the standard AR setup with irons the sight height is true for a concurrent 36 and 300yd zero. That's why it's so specific...36yds. If you zeroed that same rifle at 50, you'd be true at 200. BUT....with that zero, you're shooting low at 300 and very low at 400. Basically with a 36/300 zero you are no more than 4" away from your intended elevation out to like 400yds. You zero for 50/200....you don't have that. Bullet is shot too horizontal and drops quickly. 36/300 is your best option for 10 rings out to almost 400yds with no elevation adjustment.

What you’re describing is called mpbr, maximum point blank range. When using a scope you can adjust for elevation and windage. Red dots and irons use mpbr to keep the round within an expected rise and fall trajectory. It depends on the ammo, barrel length etc. a 20” firing 55gr at 3200fps is going to have a longer mpbr than a 10.5” at 2800fps for example

More to come

Deltathirtyfour has a great set of (2) videos called “best red dot zero” that explains exactly that. The graphics that he uses to explain those concepts in the videos are fantastic learning aids

@@gcm423deltathirtyfour is such an underrated channel. that guy is probably my favorite youtuber his videos are so in depth and easy to understand.

@@gcm423 That was a super informative video. I knew that velocity made a big difference in zero selection, but never considered height over bore.

@@Mini-TOutdoorsMedia I’m glad I was able to direct you to a valuable resource

True, very important. And so is barrel length. I had to research this recently as I had to zero a piggyback dot with a HOB of 4.75 inches. With a high HOB, you have to zero further out because if you zero at say 25, you will be shooting 12 inches at 100 yards due to the barbell being angled to high. I found that using 75gr ammo, a 75 yard zero was the flattest out to distance (75/225 yard zero).

​@haleystrategic6lmao wtf is this shit

@haleystrategic6 thank you and please include the GBRS hydra and the Unity FAST in that testing

I've experimented with effects of height over bore and even a 1/2" can make a huge difference on your near zero. It also makes a difference on far zero and max pbr. But in the end you have to settle on the most comfortable riser height and then cez is what it is. All zero's are moving targets but I've settled on point blank zero's for red dots because they are the resultant of entering the actual m.v./b.c./height over bore/target size.

You can plug in height over bore on basic ballistic calculators and it should give you a rough estimate on the changes