Its true about the old saying theres no replacement for displacement I like the 181 a little more but I dont mind lugging a heavier saw around. Thanks for the video it was a treat
I use this for an analogy. A nasty ported saw with a not so great chain, is like a drag car with skinny bias plies. If you can't get the engine to "hook up to the work", it ain't gonna be good. . You wouldn't run skinny tires because you want that power converted to "work". A good sharp chain on a nasty power saw is like a real wide sticky slick on a drag car. I hope that makes sense Mr. Tinman!
I guess to really drive your point home, you could run a stock 365 into the group as well and then see the real difference. I think a good operator could nurse any saw through big wood. But this was an axcellent video.
If you have a 365, you can have a 372. I just put a Meteor 372 jug on my 365 deleted the base gasket and slightly raised the exhaust port. Thanks to the Tinman passing on his knowledge.
Dude that pile of chips was impressive! And the saws both run great! I would love to have you port my P-60! I know you’re too busy. Might be a donor saw in it for the channel! Just sayin!!❤️🪓
Very cool video both great saws ,and so true if the saw ain't sharp it's twice the strain on your engine ,overheating ,PISTON scoring ,,learn how to properly SHARPEN a chain it will change your life ,
Fun video! The older I get, the more I appreciate the lighter saws. I just cut firewood nowadays, so I don't have to stay ahead of another operator in the woods. So for me, felling and bucking, I want the smallest saw I can get away with for the size timber I'm working.
Best thing i thought was going 20 to 25 and definite improvement, but going to 32 from 25 was the best thing, 30 inch would be probably better for my height but 32 I have zero complaints just the added weight since I didn't go with a light bar. Running on port 72 cc and skip tooth, want to try full house since been accused of cheating going with skip 😂
@@Thetreefella Yep a 36" bar drives me nuts. 28" and 30 " I can deal with it but 32" is the sweet spot for me. Your right Chris it is what you prefer...Different styles of cutting and body types.
372xtorq carb on the 181??? Boy when you port the old 181 up she’s going to be a big nasty girl! 😂👍. She’s torquey!!! Lighter is just easier on the old back in my old age... I’d have crashed through life a lot less had I know I’d ever get this old... LMFFAO! You are getting just about all a 365 can shake out there...👍👏🤟😎.
Great video I tend to cut in the 20 22” range. Most times under that. BUT occasionally I do cut some big stumps. I have a holzfforma g372xp with a big bore kit. And a stock g372xp one with a 30” bar and a 24” bar And then I have a bunchhhhhh of saws from 25cc to 55cc that’s my average use
Nice job Tinman! Doesn’t need to be scientific to be a good video. Great bast test. Thanks for all the time and effort you pour into this community of ours. Have a great week!
Those chips are wonderful. A trip through using woodworking hand tools for a while will really give you an idea of effort in the cut. You'll be on top of your saws more filing because of how much you know the saw can do if it's set right.
Thanks again for sharing. This discussion is exactly why I ditched my 029 super for my now ported and piston swapped husky 50-55. It’s so much lighter and pulls chain with authority 😁
Another great video Tinman, it is pretty neat to see how they compared to each other, I have 2 stihls with 15cc difference and they both definitely have their time and place for cutting.
I pack three in the woods. Fell with the big saw cause timber is large and your not holding it at your side all day. I Process with the mid range saw for speed and efficiency. One for backup. Great video tinman.
Here in Manitoba we don't have very big trees, and the majority of them are soft woods. I like my mid sixties CC saws for falling and limbing and at my woodpile when I am just bucking all day I love my mid seventy CC saws.
That 181 for an old stock saw is running really well. Do you have any of your warmed homelites and poulans that you could also do a comparison with? Good vids Tinman
Cool, you had similar results.... I have a 181xp with a 288 P&C on it. Just a bit of exhaust porting in muff mod.......I put it up against my stock 372xp and a 61/268xp build. Personally, I love the 288 with a 36" Tsumura bar.... like you said, torque out the wazoo. The one saw that gives it a good run torque vs torque is my old Poulan 405 which can pull a 36" pretty well.....saws are sooooo much fun.
I love these comparison videos! It's exactly what I do....just find myself thinking....can I make this 50 cc saw hang with a 60 cc? Or can this 65cc out cut this 70? You can't beat displacement when you're reaching the limit of the saw....but just as you said, over a long day I can produce more with less effort with a lighter saw that fatigues me less....
Great video bud!! And yes more saw the better, maybe next time throw your stihl 461 and your husky 394 in there just for kicks!! Lol Have a good weekend man!!
It would come down to the same thing as what we just saw but the 461is pretty rowdy !!!! Lol I guess You’ll just have to do it find out!! A good Stihl vs husky bout!!
I'm that guy.... I show up with ALL my saws... and don't have any room for the wood I'm supposed to load. That was a damned impressive showing. That 181 has 25% again the displacement of the 365. That's almost like getting a Ford 289 to run with the 360.... and you didnt add forced induction to the 365. It speaks for itself, brother.
I suggest you trying a sachs dolmar cc116 or cc109 or even cc117 or cc110. There are no other saws you can lean in as much as them (44mm stroke 48mm bore in the 116/109 50mm bore in the 117/110). They are insanely strong ported (did 2 of them by your tutorial)😊
Hey brother been watching your vids, cool stuff. I just bought a turd saw 181 se to experiment with. Its a runner right now. I saw a cylinder\ piston kit on amazon + 2 mm increase in bore size. Whats your opinion if I mess it up I still have OEM stuff.
A good running 346xp will out cut a 3120xp in 8 inch wood it is more about using the full potential of the larger saw they usually don’t pull chain any faster just more power for longer bar and harder wood.
Tinman, great video! I have learned a lot from your videos! I am process of fixing a181se now. They are a beast! Need the handle safety trigger and sides. I also just got a 266 running. I am interested in how you first setup your carbs after a fresh rebuild. I find that the idle screw can mess you up if it is not set correctly. The saw will not run to adjust the low hi. Do you have an initial setting that works for you? I set the hi lo screws 1-11/4 and if the saw will not stay running I feather the trigger and if the saw stays running I then tackle the idle. Also. How do you determine that clutch springs are too warn out and keep the chain spinning? Thanks for putting out great videos!!!
The cottonwood here in New Mexico leaves far to much ash in the stove for me. I bought a Holtzfforma G372xp just to play with and it ran great for the first tank of fuel but with the second tank performance is almost nonexistent. It idles at about 2300 and at full throttle I only get about 8300. Fresh fuel with Husqvarna oil but I still pulled the muffler and see no scoring. Is there a better carb you might suggest?
Oem carbs are pretty much the onmy way id go on one of those. Often those am carbs run ok for a tank and then flr whatever reason they start acting up..
Well I put the new carb on yesterday and it wouldn't run worth a hoot. I took a break and decided to have another go at it today. Low and behold some moron forgot to check the fuel, 😆. Runs great with fuel in it now but that wasn't the problem with the other carb. Even with a full tank it wouldn't rev above 8k. The OEM carb is a bit different than what it had on it but nothing an extra inch of impulse line couldn't fix.
I enjoy my 181se. I mostly use it with a an Alaskan mill and a 36 inch bar. I fried the piston about 10 years ago and replaced the cylinder with an after market 85cc or so in size. I wonder how the 181’s original cylinder would do ported?
Somewhere, there's some guy who carried a 125 mac or a 797 who thought you were carrying around light weight saws, too!! Because when his saws came out, he thought they were also light for their power.
The OG 365 was open port and the 365 special was quad port like a 372 but 65cc instead of 71. The 365 special had a Zama carb instead of a Walbro. The 365 had an opaque tank like a 371 and inboard chain tensioner. The 365 special got the side chain tensioner and semi transparent tank. Later regular 365’s were quad port after 1999 or 2000. The 365 xtorq is 70cc and much newer and is the same saw minus air filter and cover as the 372 x-torq with the sole exception being the transfer port covers had dividers in them to limit flow. The newer 365 xtorq saws can be made into a 372 xtorq by grinding those limiters out of the transfer covers. The 365 specials and 372s run much better than the xtorq counterparts ported or stock.
weight doesn't matter at all!!.......that's an Operator issue.....I find heavier saws EASIER and safer to run....much of that weight is sucked up by the centrifugal Force of the chain spinning....giving you a "floating" effect while cutting....there's NO "pushing" the bar down.....if you are, you're doing it wrong, or have a Dull chain!.......also longer bars are Safer for kickback, as the bar will go OVER your head, instead of hitting you in the chest like a Shorter bar.
@@tinmanssaws that explains the chains - 4 more pounds and the 181 has the weight to get in the cut. I don't do much sawing, but hand tools are a lot like the chainsaw discussion - at 20 minutes, it's just a little of what you notice. 3 hours of running a saw and you can pick up the light saw longer, but in big wood, sometimes the heavier saw works itself through the cut better.
