In this video we once again try to get this Ol' Mack back up n' running.. for the 4th time.. We had to call a Master Mechanic and this is who showed up.
You were SO close WIley. You got the cover off, you saw the plungers/springs. The actual plungers were NOT moving up{at least by the view I could see). They are basically stuck UP and not following the cam(you saw the two that weren't moving all the time). That is why the springs were not moving. It is just like a valve spring on a cylinder head. Mine had two stuck up and I had to take a screwdriver/hammer and smack them downward to break them loose. Try it again. Maybe a little pb blaster sprayed into the spring area to help lubricate the plunger once you get them to move. That first time you cranked it, they all jammed upwards and stayed and thus no fuel to start. The top cover plate just has the rack adjustment inside. My pump is very similiar but older Bosch pump. There is nothing much you can do under there beside turn the fuel "up". I don't know why your cover is stuck? Unless something is wrong, it should just lift off.
Take side cover off and spray Free All up in there. The rack is stuck. Get all the plunges moving. That's what the springs pushing down to cam. Just keep spraying down with Free All. Free All is in a silver can. It's easy to do just keep working plungers down n spraying Free All in it. Fuel shutoff lever pulls fuel rack back. It's all gummed up so spray inside cover. Leave back alone that's the governor. Once plungers free it will start. Just keep spraying inside
Cool to see Hank making his debut on your channel, Wily! 😎👍 Awesome! But what isn't awesome is that stubborn engine. It's possible the whole pump needs to be replaced or overhauled. Thanks for sharing, fellas!
That is another bolt under a anti tamper cap thats keeping you from getting that plate off. Its to keep you from getting in there to turn the fuel up. its either a cap like a freeze plug or melted lead poured in over the bolt head to keep you from getting that bolt off. But as somone else said in comments already, itlooks like all the plungers in your pump are stuck up. Those springs should be moving up and down as engine turns.
@@DontbeWily Im no diesel mechanic and I could be telling you something wrong but If I was you considering your plans/goal for that truck I would take a punch and a small hammer and try to tap down on the spring /retainer to see if I could free the pistons up. looks like its just lifter type things moving with the cam in pump. they need to be pumping the pistons above them, thats what pumps high pressere fuel to fire the injectors
Awwww Man It's Awesome seeing you two Work Together Again I Enjoyed it very much But I am Glad to see that you Branched out on own Wiley Good for you But I still do enjoy both of you Working together as I Just Lost My Best Friend who I worked with 2 years ago So watching you two Reminds me of him
Hey guys that cover on top of the pump has a bolt under the seal pop the safely seal out and you will see it it's a splined headed bolt but you can get it out with out the tool it's not connected to any thing it just to stop people playing with rhe fuel settings 2nd thing is that all the pump plungers are stuck up and not touching the cam shaft get in there and work them free just mack shout the rack is free cause if it sticks in the full fuel position it will runaway from you properly best to take the air pipe off the turbo and have a block of wood handy to block up the in let if it runs away take the top cover off and move the rack back and fourth to free it up I did my time on them old girls
The stop shaft connects directly to the rack in the fuel pump which turns the elements inside to stop fuel pressure. Pull the puff limiter cylinder off and check the fuel rack is free. Quite often they used to stick... but don't force it!. Been round these since early 80s
Thanks for the video, the first crank with that cover off tells the whole story. It's done exactly the same as the Simms minimec pumps i'm familiar with will do after sitting years. The injection elements are all stuck up. plus the stop/throttle control rod is jammed because the elements need to twist inside their bores to regulate fuel by the stop mechanism or internal governor linkage connected to the throttle pedal. The first crank of an engine that's sat years without checking the stop mechanism first usually causes those assemblies to go up and jam. Those little things you saw going up and down are cam followers like in a valve train on an engine. As they go up and down the spring parts should follow like an inlet or exhaust valve opening and closing. you shouldn't have the big gap between the 2 parts . if that pump was working right in the start/run position every time that spring part went up it takes the fuel and creates pressure and squirts the fuel up the injector line. To be honest if it was mine i'd mess with it from some experience and try make it work, but I don't think it's something I'd want you to try not understanding it fully. It's either find the pump shop thats probably way too expensive for this project , find a pump like you say or ship as is . Sorry there isn't really any better news for you on this one. Take care guys
when you had the side cover off i saw the pistons moving but i didn't see the springs moving like maybe the springs got compressed in and stuck and the lower pistons were just flapping free ?? .... cameras and videos can fool the watcher lol so that my take on it... great videos enjoy watching them...
You and Hank are great together, your hats describe you two perfectly. Try Tim Gentry, if he doesn’t know about that pump his dad probably will. Can’t wait for the next video
Those ‘tappets’ that kept getting stuck are like push rods for the valves in the engine. There is a crankshaft in the injector pump, pushes those tappets up and if it works properly the pistons above the spring should move. You could maybe fix it by using a pry bar or a screwdriver and a hammer. Good video anyways.
Man wiliy I thought for sure it was in that kill switch the one you said that it should have more travel in it .and it should. From using it the metal Ware's of and leaves dust ijn there and won't let it move full stroke. Great video.
Hey, you can get all kinds of favors from a Bologna sandwich with two slices of cheese. Especially if it's pepper Jack! Oh, and I like your No and Yes hats LOL!
Springs are stuck…cam in the pump working but the upper is rusted …happens a lot tap the springs down and loosen them up..moisture over time has made them freeze up…diesel tends to draw water over time
Trust me sometimes it's not that easy to get them to move up and down and get the element plungers to turn on the rack, and not mess settings and things up trying. I got 30 years messing with antique tractors using those inline pumps. I'd say 1 in 4 are complete junk when I try getting the tractors running. The crazy part is you can get a machine sat 10 years plus be good one sat 2 years the pump is junk.
You’ll need a special socket to get that pump cover off I know cause I have one but that’s just to adjust the fuel the 5/8 nut at the rear of the pump is for torque adjustment
That high pressure pump has two bolts at the front before the timing cover to adjust the pump timing it should side out from there I removed a couple of those that way but great try thanks Wylie and Jacob and Hank
Well the master mechanic has messed up by trying to remove the fuel cut off. I saw the issue when side cover was removed and you guys turned the engine over. None of the springs moved why because the injector pumps are all stuck in the up position. Ok to make it very simple the pump works like a cyclinder head where you have a cam shaft in the bottom with lifter buckets that push the pump plungers up that the bits the springs are attached too.
I know now after reading helpful comments like this one that the issue is springs , piston on the side of pump Thanks for sharing and thank you for watching
@@DontbeWily yes them injector pumps are stuck in the up position. You need to lever them down to meet the parts that are moving in the bottom of the pump. Bit like how the fuel rack gets stuck on a Detroit. Glad I could be of some help to you guys love watching you guys tell Hank he owes you breakfast for failing lol.
The injector pump is junk and probably needs a rebuild or replacement. The pump could also maybe be clogged with junk. Old diesel fuel can get things like algae growth in it.
كنت أعتقد أني ليست لي خبرة في هذا المجال رغم أني لدى الخبرة في مجال الخراطه العامة واللحام والمكانيكة العامة في الآلة الحرف والشاحنات هل يوجد عندكم فرصة عمل هذهي الشاحنة المعروضة في هذا الموقع لا تعتبر مشكلة بنسبة لخبرتي في هذا المجال لدى الخبرة في مجال المكنيكه أكثر من ٤٥سنة فني محرك ديزل بقوة واندفاع تحياتي لكم من سرت ليبيا
You need to keep ripping back and forth on that shutoff to free it up that’s your problem it’s froze up it should travel lot more than y’all are getting out it. Take off the fuel line fill it full of carb cleaner and keep working that shutoff turning it back and forth
buy a rebuild kit n send it to me i'll fix it for free just pay shippin. There's lil plungers under where the injector lines go in. The seals are probly bad. That top u took off is connected to a lil fork thingy that lets fuel up into the upper part where the injector lines go in. You'll never get it runnin other wise or find a good used one or doner pump.
SOY CHOFER INTERNACIONAL JUBILADO LOS FELICITO EL PLACER HACER VOLVER A LA VIDA UNA MAQUINA DE ESTAS MANEJE UNO SIENDO MUY JOVENCITO SON UNOS MAQUINONES ACA EN ARGENTINA CASI NO HAY MUY BUENO
Those springs are stuck in the up position, those little things moving up and down, the springs are supposed to be against them and when the springs travel up and down is what pump s the fuel to the injector,
Wiley I really enjoy both of ya'lls channels but to be honest both are better when you both ate working together but understand completely that can't always happen.God bless and keep up the great content
Your rack is stuck if you can get that little cap off on the back that had the wire on it that is a seal tamper proff that is where your governor is and the end of the rack it slides back and forth to open the pump to the injectors it was probably shut off and sat with the stop pulled out and froze that way that's why they say to push it back in after it shuts down spray some mystery oil in there tap slightly free it up had a bmodel that had same problem did that fired right up
I’d love to spend the day with y’all. Y’all are awesome to watch. And I have seen an old truck that y’all might be interested in working on. Y’all will have to travel of course. It’s really interesting to see.
I've come across it with several of my shop customers farm tractors that stalled out pushing in a stone pile with a loader . Our own Valtra tractor did it one day when I was cleaning out a livestock barn to, It's kinda interesting when exhaust smoke starts coming out the air filter inlet.
Well, right after it was clear that the injector pump didn’t get any fuel AND one of the plunjers was stuck, this video could have been ended. The engine itself runs good on ether but the fuel system isn’t working right. Clear situation if you ask me. Take the pump off, fix that first or replace it and make sure the entire fuel system works right.
LOL So what do you get when you cross a pear of with a crescent wrench (answer) I don't know but I bet it's got lockjaw.. but Seriously though I think it's a pretty neat tool I might try to pick one up..,.
I’m wondering if taking the plate back off and hit all the springs and plungers with some Marvel Mystery Oil….spin it over a few time and keep hitting it with Marvel and let it sit a while and see if that gets them ginning again. I’m no mechanic but break stuff all the time.
In case anyone has this problem... dont open all the nozzle heads at once... the six on top of the injector pump are the nozzle heads. Start with the hand pump by pumping/cranking it. if you have pressure then the fiber rings are still ok...Start with the left most nozzle with a 17 spanner slack it then pump the hand pump the idea is to get the air out of the nozzle pipes.. the diesel should start gushing out of the first nozzle line. while still gushing diesel out and pumping the hand pump tighten the first nozzle pipe.Go to the second from your left loosen it and start pumping the hand pump again the idea is to chase all the air in the nozzle pipes...always tighten the 17 nut b4 moving to the next one...do this for the six after which diesel is now coming out of the last nozzel... if you have easy start spray the truck will start by the 4th nozzel if not just complete and start especially if you have a weak battery
i drove one exactly like that in the mid 90s in texas oil fields haulin mostly oil field pipe this one brought back some memories had the double tranny high n low