Will The ABANDONED Cadillac's 51 year old AC System WORK Again? 

Rotflmao

Didnt expect to see you here

Can a guy get an amen?

@@super_steven_1776 Lol same! Two youtubers I watch 😂

Need to connect the wire on the switch....the one the cheese eater nibbled on

I had to run out and tell the missus this one. Far out what a classic line!

Made me spit my coffee out...went up my nose.

Things that don't lie

lol

Best part of the vid for sure

I posted #4 above🤣

🤣🤣🤣

Heck, that's a great Country and Western song (both kinds!) in itself, just waiting to be written...

Yoga Pants on an Insecure Man might have a Sweet Potato Stuffed in the Front. & That would be a Lie !!

Awesome

Love how my boys come to ask me how to do something on their cars. Well ya see if you had paid attention when I tried showin’ ya … but at least they listen now LOL

Those are memories your son will cherish now and for the rest of his life. How do I know this? I'm 61 and still think about wrenching with my grandfather to this day.

I am blessed to have had a Dad like Derick in that he had me help him with his at home automotive repair business. A guy learned a lot from his dearly departed Dad. (RIP)

I agree with diaphragm vacuum issue.. Also, if you have a hard time reading something, use your phone to take a picture of the label, then zoom the photo in.

That’s exactly what I was about to comment. Vacuum leak or bad diaphragm

@@cocacola3452 I do the same thing. The ol eagles eyes aren't what they used to be

Ur probably correct. I would have 2 listen 2 it. If 1 hears vaccuum and no leaks the door may B jammed. Could B the critters. "Probably not". Just "do the right thing" and use cardboard 2 divert the airflow. Grab dome dryer hose 4 the rear seat area. On another note: My '70 ragtop blew ice crystals on the OEM system (R12) Long B4 R134a was thought of. Back in the 70s -90s when I had it. The old Frigidaire System was a real "ice cube" maker. I can never get R134a 2 get below 36°. My R12 wouldn't run on cold. At med high temp it would blow ice crystals all day. This was in the desert. Top that R134a. Ahhh the good old days when society cared about what they did. That is Y our Caddys ran 50years later. This new junk is designed 2 B in the shop inside a year and expired life of 5-7yrs so U will buy more new junk. Also if U hit or something hits U hard the new vehicle is TL. My was Caddy was driven thru a garage wall (not by me) and it just scratched the front of the hood a little. 2day U fart and melt paint.

@@Dark_Knight_USA I knew someone that had a Z28 from the 80s and it would get in the upper 40s inside the cab on max. R12 worked better on hot days when sitting idle. I remember doing drivers ed back in 94. They had brand new Buick's that used the "new" 134a refrigerant. The AC worked so bad when idle that we ended up rolling the windows down. They got much better over time by making the coils bigger and fine tuning the metering device, but they still struggle on hot days in traffic.

I can relate to your dad comment, fortunately my mates dad taught me a few things about cars for which I am forever grateful.

I still call my dad any time I'm trying to fix something new or build something new. I'm sorry you guys didn't have that. I wish I could of shared my dad with your guys.

Same. I loved my Dad. I really did (still do even though he's gone). I vividly remember all the times he was around to as a boy. His job kept him away from us and as an adult I know it must have been killing him inside. After he retired at 60 (made possible from that job that kept him away) I saw more of him than I ever had as a child. Better late than never. I think he was trying to make up for the lost time. Never got to tell him I appreciated that. Lung and brain cancer (FROM SMOKING!) took him away before I had the chance. He'd have seen his Great Great Grandchild like his father did. TL:DR Spent as much time and involve your kids with you when they are young. Trust me they will appreciate it later.

he will get his own truck... or two... or three.

@@MindBlowerWTF haha I have no doubt of that. Hopefully he keeps the farm and the old utes of your grandfather's going when it's his turn.

I forget which one is which but one is getting Lawsuit and I forget which is going to who now but I think they're gonna be well taken care of. And at the same time taught nothing is given all is earned.

Very lucky man to have those memories. Hope you created some new ones with a young-un. CHEERS! 🇺🇸

I just lost mine a week ago. Same types of memories building junkers. If you want a good listen to bring back those precious moments, try "daddy's cup" by drive by truckers. Listened to it in the funeral procession and really brought the memory back.

I used to frequent a forum for the old Honda VTR250 Interceptor and a member there discovered that oil of wintergreen was great at reconditioning old carburetor boots that had gone stiff. Might work here.

Had a '70 Caddy with this same issue. It was a split vacuum hose all right, but at the control switch. Replaced it and worked GREAT afterward!!!!

If'n a guy was a little more timely he could have bleep blooped his comment in here before now, but a guy's just going to go ahead and agree with this one right here. Check those firewall vacuum hoses. I have a 1990 Isuzu Trooper that had the exact same problem. Couldn't switch to defrost because the hose was cracked and disconnected

I kinda guessed if the duct controls weren't operated with cables it would most likely be vacuum operated. Chrysler liked to use vacuum on most all of their makes into the 1990's. The wife had a 1992 Plymouth Acclaim. A rabbit (yes, a rabbit!) chewed the main vacuum line for HVAC one time and all I could get was defrost. For your Caddy, 1970 was a few years before they thought to use electronical digical controls.

I was wondering why no vacuum pull also.

Should replace the drier also.

so glad this has been mentioned pull a vacuum please!

Well I for one, did not. And it's still blowing ice cold after 12 years. No recharges. Sometimes you just have to dance with the devil 😎

@@km-zu6qm it will still work. I did it as a kid with an old Chevy Citation and the air did work. It's just not proper practice to charge an a/c system without evacuating it first. Sometimes they just won't work as well at idle because you have a system full of air that you have added refrigerant to and it can't operate as efficiently because the air that is in it is taking up room where refrigerant could be instead. I love fixing air conditioning. I even got an older recover/recycle/evacuate/charge machine. Haven't had to use the R-12 part of the machine lol.

👊

I wish youtube would show us when we subbed to each channel, maybe it does but i dont know how to see it . lol

He's grown like a weed because it's hard to find a funny, smart, and genuine person on RU-vid. Everyone is sharing his channel and it's probably going to be over 5m within a year.

I subbed 3 years ago... It was just me a a fella named Fred Licktenstiger back then...

I found this channel while wasting time on RU-vid during the early parts of covid.

It's not too bad you just start with the blend door canister if it's got vacuum there , the diaphragm is defective. If no vacuum at that line ,see if there is vacuum to the slider switch. If not, start at the beginning where the rubber hoses will get hot and cracking and you lose your vacuum right at the intake manifold, and then work your way outward yeah, outwards, outward yeah! LOL

My family had a 68 Eldorado. Lots of systems worked on vacuum, including the doors that routed air. Lots of leaks develop over time - even without the help of mice! Thanks for the great content!

99 chevy blazer was a dry rotted vacuum line, fixed four wheel drive and vent control....

Worst case the blend door is jammed/broken, and the heater box has to come out, which means tearing the entire dash apart😬

Most of the time the the vacuum line from the intake gets dry rotten and leaks. Sometimes it is unplugged or someone hooked it wrong and it is pulling when it should push or vise versa.

yup, get a vacuum pump , gauges and a Yellowjacket leak detector. The leak detectors find amazingly small leaks, takes a lot of the guesswork out of it.

And the correct amount of 134. When switching from 12 to 134 the volume is about 80% of the R12 charge. Simple formula: (R12 Charge Specification x 0.9) - 0.25 lbs. = R134a Charge Level. (4 lbs. x 0.9) - 0.25 lbs. = 3.35 lbs.

The walmart cheap stuff works fine I've never had a problem with any of mine

That and Post 10.

The blend door is probably stuck in the last place it was used

...nope... probably not...

Can confirm

Oh ya...a guy has been known to do that...

A Fella has spent a couple days doin just that… went on marathon type trip… an boy was it fun

Me too! That’s why he’s got almost 900 thousand subscribers.

Blessed in so many ways. 1 can only B so lucky.

I love everything she does

Make a woman laugh every day and she's yours for life...

Didn’t another Jessica say: “He makes me laugh.”

Yep. Most likely it's tore up along the firewall somewhere.

@@stevepartridge75 The mice might have been chewing but the GM vacuum balls are notorious failure points.

Blend door is probly okay....nope. Probly got stuck with mouse juice.

My first thought was vacuum lines. My AC/Heat control unit took a crap on my 97 Jeep TJ so I bought a "new" (junkyard stock) unit and replaced it. There must have been 8 or 25 vacuum lines attached that control all of the different modes. First install and I didn't have the lines mated up quite enough and nothing worked. Reinstalled after cramming the mating point together as tight as I could and everything worked.

could be a bad vacuum motor also.

Dats da trufe! I've lived all over Florida and it's 1000 degrees just about all year long wherever you live in this State! It's home though, what are ya gonna do? ☀

Yep. My friends up North laughed like crazy when they heard I ordered a car with 4 speed and factory air!

@@robertburns3014 It’s not the temp. that keeps me out of FL; it’s the extraordinarily high humidity……..and the Gargantuan insects!! I’ll leave that to others!!

Yep I'm from Miami. Tell me about it.

It's truly amazing common cell phone cameras have gotten so hi-res that this actually works. You can even use the flash to throw stuff into relief and zoom into read old worn out stampings or coins.

Was gonna say the same thing.

Oor he could just ask his wife to read it you know what there like are you blind its right there.

Show off

I do that to… What was the chance of that happening… Maybe 7589 out of 8000 times…

Vidja!

Needs a tv show!

@@wraithoftheirish nah then there'd be a director and things to ruin his personality!

@@wraithoftheirish got one! Right here on youtube!!

I had a 79 Coupe Deville for a long time, and I'm remembering vacuum lines being a real pain for a guy.

+1 definitely

There is a vacuum canister under the hood somewhere. Check to see if there is vacuum to it and that it holds vacuum. They tend to rust through. Any vacuum hoses that have been chewed through by the little furry creatures will also cause your blend doors to not function, default position is floor vents. BTW, the bubbles passing under the sight glass indicates air in the system. This can be caused by low refrigerant level. In your case, it's probably due to you not drawing a vacuum in the system before charging. If it blows cold enough, no worries, but a vacuum pump draws not only the air out of the system but it evaporates the moisture.

If a guy's brain case is operating with 21.6% efficiency there was some vacuum lines disconnected and capped with blue or yellow caps in an earlier episode, that probably might not be the problem.

I’ve had vacuum lines crumble apart in much newer rigs than this

Thank you kind sir for your service!

Thank you for your service 👍😎✌️

I imagine your work load just a a little bit lighter. Like sand Through The Hourglass, it should have been added to the transmissions and motors some where to the East. Stay safe out there, where ever you are.

I was inspired to change on my own oil. Baby steps lol

@@briansutton7764 thanks, I'm still in the states since I'm in an MP unit but I'm doing my first transmission job and it's been tough but not too bad 👌

I've always said the three things were children, alcohol, & Spandex.

Really? I thought it was "Ayce Cubullage" !!!

@Disk Horse this is an explanation as to the original Mineral Oil used with R12 chlorofluorocarbon based Refrigerant, PAG Oil used with R134A Propane based refrigerant. MINERAL OIL Up until the early 1990s, mineral oil was the lubricant of choice because it mixed easily and well with the R-12 (freon) refrigerant that was universally used at the time. When R-12 was phased out in 1994 due to its ozone-depleting properties, however, a new refrigerant oil was required which mixed well with the new ozone-friendlier R-134a which took its place. Summary: Mineral Oil is used on R-12 systems, primarily on cars built prior to 1995. PAG OIL Polyelkylene Glycol (PAG) oil is a synthetic oil used by OEMs in their R-134a systems. PAG oils are harsher than mineral oils, and may cause skin irritation and damage O-rings and seals. There are different viscosities of PAG oil being used by OEMs: PAG 46, which is the most popular; PAG 100, which is also common; and PAG 150, which is more rarely used. FJC offers PAG oils in all three viscosities, and also offers each PAG option with Extreme Cold or Fluorescent Dye additives. FJC also offers a “Universal PAG oil” which is a variable viscosity oil that can replace any of the other three. Summary: PAG Oil is used on R-134a systems from about 1995-2015. Check your manufacturer’s recommendation for proper type of oil as well as specific viscosity. POE/ESTER OIL Because mineral oil and PAG oil cannot be mixed, another A/C compressor oil was needed to bridge the gap for system conversions. The transitional solution was polyol ester oil (“ester” oil or POE). Ester oil is often called “retrofit oil” because it mixes with both R-12 and R-134a. Like PAG oil, Ester oil is a synthetic lubricant. Ester molecules are very stable and have excellent performance characteristics in both high and low temperature environments. Ester oil comes in only one viscosity so it does not include the viscosity numbers associated with PAG oils. FJC offers Ester oil with Extreme Cold and Fluorescent Dye additives. Since R-12 was phased out in 1994, vehicles newer than 1995 typically do not contain ester oil as the lubricant for the A/C system. Summary: POE Oil is used for retrofitting R-12 systems (pre-1995) to R-134a. R-1234yf OIL While R-134a has dominated the U.S. market for the past two decades, it too is beginning to be replaced by a new refrigerant. Although R-134a does not deplete the ozone layer, it has been shown to have a high global warming potential (GWP). For this reason, R-1234yf was developed and began to be phased into US vehicles in 2015. However, just as the discontinuation of R-12 necessitated the use of newer oils, the introduction of R-1234yf has also brought about the need for new specific R-1234yf A/C compressor oils. Summary: Refrigerant R-1234yf uses its own specific R-1234yf oil. The changing environmental regulations has put the onus on shop owners and technicians to be stocked with a wide array of A/C compressor oils, equipment and knowledge to accommodate whichever vehicle rolls into their shop.

It had already been converted to 134

@@DishNetworkDealerNEO 1234yf is rotting out the condensers in european cars at an alarming rate [2yrs for nissans] + it costs a fortune. our systems over here take an average 500g at a cost of £80 to the dealer, so its £130 ish to refill an average car [cost to customer] back street garages [shade tree garages?] are just refilling with pure LPG, should be interesting in a crash.... electric cars are using a refined 1234yf system, so u need 3 different AC machines in the workshop testing must be done with nitrogen, jailtime if you leak gas into the enviroment, but at its current price, you couldnt afford to waste it....

@@paulriggers1558 actually all Freon is flammable because of the oil in it...R12a is an excellent replacement...the flammable fear thing is very small concern if any..i dont think they have one reported incident in Canada which uses R12a, which is a consumer product replacement in a can for R134a sold in all auto parts stores..R12a doesn't need to be put in an evacuated system, and moister in the system is not harmful like it is with R134a....also no adapters of any kind are needed when going from 134a to R12a.........willie

Ditto, mate. That line made me laugh so hard!

that reminded me of Tim Wilson's 100 things everyman should know.....it's on youtube

My mind was telling me the same but didn’t want to be that guy, from what I read as doing this right now too is air and moisture in the system makes an acid that will chew up the compressor leading to failure

@@RABBITMotorworks I've been doing refrigeration for 20 years and you're correct.

@@RABBITMotorworks That and it's best to replace the dryer since system had no charge in it to start with. It'll be contaminated. Chances are whoever changed it to 134-a didn't bother to change out the hoses or anything else so it'll lose the charge after a bit. Hoses for 134 are lined and the compressor uses different oil than r-12. Old GM a/c's were complicated, used more gasoline to run them with that big A-6 compressor running all the time, but they were great.

He also forgot to mention flushing the R12 mineral oil out, replacing the accumulator and adding PAG oil to the system before applying a vacuum and charging with R134a. Plus he kept calling it 112 instead of R12. This all worries me.

Plus you only use 80% of the R12 charge with R134a.

Came here to say the same. A LOT of those little vacuum lines were plastic and crumble over the years. A guy's seen it 1567 times.

much appreciated

That's a nice car, know your vacuum hose sizes

Ya took the words right out my mouth… never fails to brighten a fella up

Need the old mouse sucker 200

Or the vacuum operated actuator is gone

By fun to fix did you mean rip out the dashboard to get to the vent housing?

Awesome appreciate you

That's what i was gonna say.

Yep , but they fail to defrost for safety reasons . Probably a seized damper and weak / leaking vacuum .

Yup

I know you guys are correct, but isn't there a spring/counterweight under there too?

@@jackolson8775 Yes , it is supposed to fail in the defrost position if the vacuum fails . Given that is the position the door should have seized in while parked then there is more going on here . It was either busted before being parked , the door moved to there on vacuum when he tried it and the spring won't return it or the mice chewed off the door .

Check out his instagram for just that. Has frequent Instagram Stories that are short.

It could be a vacuum leak to the actuator as well, I've seen that happen before. Those vacuum hoses are like filet mignon to rats.

No blend door on that baby it's all vacuum there is probably a bad hose under the hood

Them old cars never used electric actuators..They were all cables and rods...I bet the blend is stuck from trash in it...Then the rod popped off the control lever or broke..

@AkshonClips see correction below, I’m trying now to figure out how the 1970 Cadillac worked. Do you know what the part is called?

A vacuum pod?

You oughta marry her. Oh, wait.

@@joeday4293 Bwahahaha!!